How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Romanian Red Hardneck Garlic

‘Romanian Red’ is a garlic lover’s garlic. The center of attention in the dish, this one has a sharp bite and brings the heat with an intense, long-lasting flavor. This is a favorite hardneck garlic with large, plump cloves loaded with garlicky spice. Silky papers envelop attractive bulbs and individual cloves. 

Unwrap ‘Romanian Red’ for unparalleled richness in sauces, Asian-inspired cuisines, Mexican dishes, and dips. This robust variety is sure to keep away vampires while harnessing a deliciously spicy flavor.

What Is It?

‘Romanian Red’ is a hardy selection with bright white papers characteristic of “porcelain” garlic types. Purple-red streaks and stripes line individual cloves with a tawny background.

‘Romanian Red’ is a hardneck garlic. Hardnecks thrive in cool climates and bear a true garlic flavor among easy-to-unwrap cloves. The large, peel-fast cloves make them a chef’s choice.

In spring and summer, hardnecks grow long, curly flowerscapes. The curlicue stems hold a swollen false flower. Scapes are edible, with a buttery garlic flavor as tasty as the bulb.

Garlic is a fun and easy crop to plant and grow. Start with high-quality organic, disease-free “seed” garlic. Bulbs ship in the fall, with pre-orders in late summer. 

The carefree, low-maintenance crops grow beautifully in the ground, raised beds, and containers. By next summer, enjoy a multitude of fall-planted bulbs and build your own seed garlic supply!

Characteristics

‘Romanian Red’ grows four to five hearty cloves per bulb. Fresh cloves are ivory buff inside their reddish-white and tan wrappers.

Harvest the spring scapes as they grow and begin to curl. Use them like scallions for fresh or sauteed flavor. Left on the plant, bulbils develop as a way to propagate the crop. Bulbils are tiny cloves in the making.

Bulbs that develop bulbils lose their culinary goodness. The plant directs its energy into seed production rather than clove development. Remove scapes unless you intend to propagate a few bulbs through bulbils.

Native Area

Garlic has a long, well-traveled history of culinary and medicinal uses. It’s thought to have originated in Central Asia from wild ancestors. However, extensive trading throughout southern Europe makes pinpointing the source of modern, cultivated garlic from wild species indeterminate.

Garlic has been a valuable crop for thousands of years. Historical evidence dates back to 5000 years ago when people began foraging wild species and cultivating crops. Ancient cultures used the early versions of the garlic we grow in our gardens today.

‘Romanian Red’ garlic is originally from Romania and became popular in cultivation out of British Columbia. Hardneck varieties flourish in areas with long, cold winters. It relies on a chill period, and the sturdy bulbs withstand snowpack. Mild summers are best for this selection.

Planting

Fall is the best time to plant ‘Romanian Red’ garlic. Large cloves develop over seven to nine months for a summer harvest.  Aim for planting temperatures between 32-50°F (0-10°C) and optimally closer to 40-50°F (4-10°C).

Planting six to eight weeks before your area’s anticipated frost date allows roots to develop before a deep freeze. In many growing zones, this is usually around September and October. Garlic is adaptable, and even within two weeks of the first frost is fine for planting. 

In warm regions, save planting for the coolest winter months, generally December and January. Hardnecks need a chill period (vernalization) for four to eight weeks at temperatures below 40°F (4°C) to fully develop.

If you miss fall and want to grow garlic, opt for a spring round of planting. The harvest is ready in about 90 days, though the cloves won’t be as large. They’ll need the vernalization period from refrigeration for about 40 days before planting.

There are two ways to plant hardnecks: through cloves and through bulbils produced on the scape. Cloves are the easiest and fastest way to get whole bulbs in a single growing season.

Cloves

Cloves are so easy to plant that it’s tempting to grow lots of them. There’s nothing wrong with that – garlic takes up little growing space and grows at a time when other plants are dormant or not in season.

Crack the individual cloves from the whole bulb. Leave the papers around each clove intact—they offer a layer of protection from pests and diseases. Plant the largest segments, leaving the little central cloves for eating. Or, plant them in a cluster for petite spring garlic, small cloves that haven’t yet developed papers.

Plant the cloves two inches deep, spaced four to six inches apart. Orient the cloves with the pointy stem end upright and the flat bottom end downward. Planting in other directions leads to malformed bulbs, a disappointment after months of patiently waiting for the harvest. Cover the cloves with soil and water deeply for soil absorption.

Bulbils

Bulbils are the little cloves that develop on the scapes. After planting, they take two years to mature into whole bulbs. 

To multiply your crop, let a few plants form scapes and bulbils. Clip them to save for fall planting. Plant the bulbils one and a half inches deep. They’ll enlarge into full cloves their first growing year and into whole bulbs the second or third.

Remember, leaving scapes to form bulbils will compromise the belowground bulb. Only let a few scapes develop into bulbils.

How to Grow

With the right site and cultural conditions, ‘Romanian Red’ garlic needs little else to thrive. Whether in the ground, raised beds, or containers, proper bed preparation and establishment allow the plants to grow with little gardener intervention.

Light

Position the plants in full sun. They’ll grow happily in six to eight hours of sunlight daily. The plants tolerate partial shade, but more sun during the growing season promotes the healthiest growth and the biggest bulbs.

Water

This variety struggles in overly wet soils. Prolonged root saturation leads to plant weakness and promotes fungal disease. Water deeply, rather than frequently and shallowly, is best for root development and moisture uptake.

Regular seasonal rainfall is usually enough to support garlic. Newly planted cloves and bulbils need regular, even moisture to establish roots in fall. Supplement with irrigation during dry spells and late-season heat. Aim for evenly moist soils.

Avoid irrigating in winter when plants are dormant. They aren’t actively growing, and excess water leads to rot. As new growth emerges in spring, resume regular watering. One inch of rainfall or supplemental water per week is usually sufficient.

Reduce watering one to two weeks before harvesting to encourage large bulbs. Withholding water also means less staining of the papery shell and less chance of rot.

Soil

‘Romanian Red’ develops best in organically rich, well-drained soils. Loose and airy loams are ideal. A pH between 6.0 and 7.0 is optimal.

For poor soils like clay and sand, generously add composted organic material to the native soil. Compost improves aeration, moisture retention, drainage, and nutrition. In compact or poorly drained soils, bulbs may develop disease (wet conditions) or become malformed (drought situations). Roots struggle in heavy compositions.

Temperature and Humidity

These hardy bulbs prefer cool conditions. They grow in warm climates but less vigorously, and the bulbs will be smaller. Opt for softneck garlic selections in hot, southern zones.

Upper leaves benefit from good air circulation. Avoid damp situations that lead to fungal issues and weaker plants.

Fertilizing

Garlic relies on rich soils for essential nutrients. To add enrichment or improve soil quality, apply a balanced, organic fertilizer at planting. 

Compost offers additional nutrition. Spread a generous layer of compost over the area to amend soils in advance or at the time of planting.

When seedlings emerge in spring and reach four to six inches tall, consider a boost like fish emulsion to spur growth.

Maintenance

Provide a two-to-three-inch layer of mulch at planting. Clean straw or chopped leaves provide insulation against temperature fluctuations. Mulch also helps with moisture retention and weed suppression, adding nutrients as it decomposes.

In cold climates, pull back the mulch in spring to let sunlight warm the soil for root development. When new shoots emerge, fluff the mulch and put it back in place.

Another maintenance task is weeding. Weed regularly to reduce competition for nutrients, water, and sunlight.

Harvesting and Storage

Bulbs are ready to harvest when leaves flop over and turn yellow in the summer.  A few lower leaves will turn dry and brown. Use a fork or shovel to carefully loosen the bulbs and lift or pull them. Brush away excess dirt. Keep stems and roots attached.

Curing is necessary for longer storage. To dry it for culinary use, hang bundles of the stems in a shaded, ventilated area. Ideal curing temperatures are 45-65°F (7-18°C), with humidity at 50-60%.

Let the plants dry for two to three weeks. Cured and ready bulbs have dry stems and flaky, rigid, papery skins.

Once dry, clip the stem one inch above the bulbs and trim the roots. ‘Romanian Red’ garlic stores for months. For the best heat, use cloves soon after curing.

Propagation

Dividing bulbs into cloves for planting is the easiest way to propagate hardnecks. They also propagate through bulbils.

Division

Retain the biggest cloves after harvesting for fall planting. Saving cloves (your own seed garlic) is an easy way to increase the bounty. Follow regular planting guidelines to keep the goodness growing.

Bulbils

Plant the small capsules in the fall in a separate bed where they can develop over two growing seasons. After two years, they’ll be fully mature bulbs.

While bulbils take longer to develop than cloves, they are an easy way to produce a multitude of new plants.

Common Problems

Garlic naturally deters many garden pests. Thrips may be occasional visitors, and fungal diseases like bulb rot are sometimes a problem. The best prevention is ensuring proper cultural conditions through even watering and healthy soils.

Pests

Early detection is the best way to control insects. Thrips are widespread sap-sucking insects that feed on foliar tissues. Leaves may appear silvery and stippled or brown and papery. Thrips don’t often damage garlic quality, and not all thrips damage plants. Some feed on aphids and mites as natural pest control. 

If you see thrips but no indicators of damage on the plant, hold off on treatment. Treatment is in order if damage accompanies the insect or you see damage alone. It’s easy to control thrips early on with horticultural soap or neem oil applications.

Bulb maggots feed on bulbs in the onion genus and bore into stems, causing them to yellow and wilt. If maggots are an issue in your area, avoid planting garlic where you’ve grown alliums in the last few years. Crop rotation prevents infestations. Prevent them by always purchasing high-quality seed.

Diseases

As with pests, the best disease control is prevention through cultural conditions. Common fungal diseases may be an issue with water fluctuations, temperature stresses, or humid conditions.

Bulb rot occurs in overly wet soils and periods of prolonged saturation. The bacteria cause the bulbs and plant material to become mushy and inviable. While there’s no reversing bulb rot once it sets in, improved drainage and cultural conditions can help other bulbs. Remove the impacted plants from the bed or planter.

Rust can be an issue in upper growth. If you notice rust-colored patches on plants, remove them. This is usually enough to control rust. However, set your plants up for success by ensuring enough space between plants. Rotate your alliums as a prevention method.

Horticultural oils like neem can treat early fungal infections if removing leaves doesn’t work. These treatments impact beneficial insects, so be sure to follow application requirements.

Frequently Asked Questions