How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Fritillaria Flowers

From the lily family comes a special group of plants collectively called fritillaria. These plants have a specific growth pattern and bell-shaped flowers in pretty colors. Fritillarias are perennial bulbs of mostly European descent with the most intriguing pattern on the petals of flowers that hang like bells on green stems. There are around 130 varieties of these bulbs, with many sporting the iconic checkerboard pattern.

Fritillarias were mentioned in Shakespeare’s works and by several botanists in 16th-century Europe. Depending on the region and species, they have many common names, such as chess flower, guinea-hen flower, lazarus bell, chequered lily, daffodil, and drooping tulip.

The name fritillaria comes from the Latin ‘fritillus’, which refers to the chessboard or dice box pattern on the flowers and is also the name of a type of butterfly with a similar pattern just in orange and black or brown.

What are Fritillaria?

Each type of the over a hundred varieties will have specific characteristics. Still, fritillarias are spring-flowering bulbs that will die back after flowering and return the following spring.

Native Area

This perennial bulb covers a large area of temperate climates in Europe, Asia, and North America. Herbalist John Gerard first discovered or wrote about it in Europe as far back as 1597. Botanists recorded it as growing wild only in 1731. In some cultures, like the Chinese, it is used in traditional medicine.

Characteristics

Fritillarias differ greatly in size among the different species. They could be just six inches tall or tower to four feet. Like many bulbs, the leaves are linear and set in whorls up fleshy stems. They are mostly green but can also be tinged with a touch of blue.

The flowers are why we all want these lovely blooms in the garden or containers. The bell-shaped, drooping flowers are sometimes patterned with the iconic checkerboard or dice box, making them magical. The colors range from maroon to yellow, orange, purple, and white.

Most varieties will contain toxins in the form of steroidal alkaloids and should be handled with care. The leaves and stems can harm the skin, and ingesting the bulbs may be lethal.

Varieties

As discussed previously, there are over 130 varieties of fritillaria. However, there are also the popular ones that we love to grow in the garden. These are just a few of the varieties and their characteristics.

Fritillaria meleagris

Commonly called snake’s head fritillarias, but they are far from lethal, this very special bulb has maroon and white checkerboard-patterned flowers that will draw a crowd. The flowers are also available in white, but for sheer boldness, the maroon and white is a showstopper.

One to two flowers form on stems 14-24 inches tall. This plant has the Royal Horticultural Society’s stamp of approval and boasts Garden Merit status.

Fritillaria persica

The Persian fritillaria has tall stems up to two to three feet and mostly purple, sometimes ivory to white, bell-shaped flowers, up to thirty on one stem. This variety from Iran, Turkey, and Cyprus grows well in a subtropical environment and is prized for its tall flower stalks.

Fritillaria imperialis

The crown imperial fritillaria is a crowd-pleaser and quite distinctive with its green spikey crown that sits atop long upright stems three to five feet tall. The flowers hang underneath the crown in bright colors like red and orange. They have an interesting odor that you might find off-putting, but it’s also a deterrent for pests and diseases.

Fritillaria affinis

The chocolate lily is a native of western North America and comes with tubular hanging cups in chocolaty colors. They form in one to five flowers on stems ranging in size from 4-48 inches.

Planting

Planting fritillaria bulbs is very simple, with the right instructions and the correct positioning. For the best results, carefully follow the directions provided by the bulb suppliers. Because they can be planted in full sun or partial shade, adjust watering for the different zones.

Prepare the soil and set out the bulbs, leaving plenty of space between them for airflow. The larger the bulb, the deeper it needs to be positioned in the soil. For example, Fritillaria imperialis must be buried at least 11 inches to grow and flower well. Planting these bulbs will take place in the fall, around September and October.

How to Grow

Once the bulbs are planted, they are very easy to take care of. They will die down and then rise again the following season, needing very little to perform well again.

Some species will clump, and others will remain single plants, but once you have them and take care of them, they will be around for a long time. Take note of what they need for success.

Light

The light requirements for fritillarias can be full sun or partial to dappled shade. In their natural environments, fritillarias grow in mountainous areas at high altitudes in full sun and in low-altitude damp meadows and fields with well-draining soil. Some varieties prefer more shade to more sunlight, so it’s best to make sure the variety you choose has the best lighting available.

Water

Although they like moist soil, fritillarias do not like to be waterlogged, and overwatering could cause the bulbs to rot. If there is no rainfall, an inch of water per week would be sufficient. Reduce watering in the dormant stages in winter and increase watering in spring, when the bulbs come to life and sprout new stems and leaves.

Soil

Well-draining soil is crucial to these bulbs’ growth. They like rich, loamy soil but will handle sandy soil with added nutrients at the planting stage. For depleted soils, add plenty of compost or well-rotted manure when planting. They also prefer neutral pH soil.

Temperature

Although the bulbs will be dormant in winter and need the cold temperatures to grow properly in spring when the temperature increases, they do like a blanket of mulch. They will cope with just about every temperature; cold, hot, and humid. Most species are suitable for growing in USDA hardiness zones 4-8.

Fertilizer

When you buy a bulb, its food supply for the season is packed into each one and will sustain it throughout the season. However, you can give them a boost with general fertilizer or bulb food in spring. In the fall, when they start dying back, feed them again and add a layer of compost before mulching. This will help the bulbs store food for the next season’s growth.

Maintenance

Once the season ends, the leaves, flowers, and stems will turn yellow and die back. At this stage, it’s important for the plants to gather as much nutrition as they can to store in the bulbs for the next season.

It is tempting to cut them back, but rather wait until they are truly brown before cutting them back, composting, and adding a layer of mulch to take them through the winter.

Overgrown clumps can be lifted, divided, and replanted in autumn, but it may take a few years to recover.

Throughout the flowering season, deadhead the fritillaria flowers to encourage more blooms.

Propagation

There are two successful ways to propagate fritillaria: from seed, which will take up to two years before they can be planted in the garden, or by lifting and dividing, which is a much quicker way to get more plants.

Division

Fritillaries can become overcrowded after a few years as the bulbs underground produce offsets. If the season was less than glowing, they may need to be lifted and divided into smaller sections to be replanted.

Carefully lift a clump-type and remove split offset shoots from the main bulbs. When lifting, use two garden forks on opposite ends and dig far enough away from the clump so as not to damage the bulbs. Discard any bulbs that were damaged during lifting.

Prepare the new soil and plant immediately, leaving a good deal of space between them so they can clump again and have enough air circulation.

Seed

Fritillarias can also be grown from seed. Once the flowers have dried out on the plants, they can be collected, and the seeds separated from the chaff. Store the seed in well-marked jars or paper envelopes, and use it within a year or two at most so that the seed remains viable.

When ready to grow, sow the seed thinly in trays with a good germination or seedling mix. Cover the seed with a little soil and water well. Keep the trays in a covered area like a greenhouse for the winter season. From seed, the seedlings can only be planted out into the garden or into containers in the second spring season. Make sure to keep watering and keep the soil evenly moist.

Common Problems

Mostly, fritillarias are not bothered too much by pests or diseases, and with the right positioning and care, they will be perfectly fine. However, for the sake of completeness, these are some of the problems that may occur.

Growing Problems

These will mostly be from overcrowding bulbs in one space. This will lead to the bulbs fighting for resources like water and nutrients, and the bulbs’ growth will be spindly and dull.

This issue is usually the case when, after a few years, the bulbs have created offsets and have essentially crowded themselves. It’s time to dig them up and divide them into smaller plants to replant with a good enough space between them.

Pests

The damage caused by weevils is evident when the leaves turn yellow and you find they have been chewed on. The grub of the lily weevil attacks underground, damaging the stems below soil level, while the snout beetle will attack the leaves above ground, and you will see their telltale signs of chewed leaves that leave a scalloped edge.

Unfortunately, the eggs are laid beneath the soil and will hatch without you seeing them. You may need the intervention of organic pesticides to control. Less impactful options include horticultural oils, neem, and insecticidal soap sprayed on the entire plant. Pyrethrins and spinosad are other options. All of these will affect beneficial insects, so use caution when spraying.

Snails and slugs are often the culprits for chewed-up plants, and they can easily be spotted by the trails of goo they leave behind. They are once again night foragers, and the best way to control them is by hunting them at night with a torch and dropping them into a bucket of soapy water. Beer and snail traps are also an option.

Aphids, scale, and mites are also interested in the plant sap of your lilies. If you notice any of these, use mechanical control before pesticidal control. Spray aphids and mites with a strong stream of water. Remove scale with a swab soaked in 70% or less rubbing alcohol. Follow up with neem or insecticidal soap if these methods aren’t enough.

Be on the lookout for any wildlife that likes to snack on bulbs in your area. Protect newly planted bulbs with critter cover if necessary.

Diseases

Some common diseases include fungal diseases like leaf spot or rust. Leaf spot causes the leaves to yellow and die off, while rust causes blotches in reddish spots. Both are caused by overcrowding and too-moist foliage.

Prevention is the best method of control. Spacing the plants apart for good air circulation and avoiding watering the leaves is the best method of control. Once you have an infection, prune away affected leaves. In heavily affected areas, remove the plants and destroy them.

Frequently Asked Questions