5 Signs Your Orchid Isn’t Getting Enough Light

Orchids rely on plenty of light to bud and flower. The amount of light each species needs varies, but it relates to all aspects of their growth. Learn what to look for as garden expert Katherine Rowe explores telltale signs that an orchid isn’t getting enough light. Fortunately, this one is easy to correct!

A cluster of white orchid flowers with pink vines and lips sits atop rosettes of green leaves in a white pot on a light enough windowsill.

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Providing the right amount of light for our orchids seems straightforward, but it’s actually complex because sunshine relates to all aspects of their development. The light source, quality, duration, and species work together to mimic the orchid’s natural environment for growth and flowering. Fortunately, many orchids are adaptable, though hitting the right range remains a particular growing requirement.

Most orchids need plenty of bright, indirect light to flourish. Insufficient light doesn’t support the energy needed to produce flowers. As we’re in midwinter in the northern hemisphere, days are shorter, and sunlight is more diffused. Seasonal changes come into play, and as spring’s sun inches closer, we’ll be prepared for the best orchid-growing placement.

The good news is that exposure is an easy situation to correct. Orchids reward us for their care with those wonderfully exotic blooms that last for weeks and months at a time. Once you find the sweet spot of their preferred growing conditions, they’ll flower happily for years to come. With a few adjustments – slowly – you can show your orchid in its best light.

About Orchids

Yellow flowers with star-shaped petals and wide sepals bloom on a stem, with long, slender green leaves in a golden pot on a sunny windowsill.
Many species adapt well to indirect, filtered natural exposure.

Different species and hybrids require varying amounts and levels of sunshine, and finding the right amount is the key. Cattleya (cat orchids) benefit from lots of light to bloom, while Paphiopedilums (lady’s slippers) need no direct sun. Phalaenopsis (moth orchids) need intermediate levels and adapt to lower light, making them easy-care options.

Many orchids grow best in dappled light (resembling tree canopy cover) and need protection from intense afternoon sun. Depending on the type, care requirements may be very specific. Though, with nearly 900 genera and thousands of species and hybrids, the selection is diverse and includes plenty of easy-going specimens.

Orchids are terrestrial, epiphytic, or lithophytic based on how and where they grow. Terrestrial (ground orchids) root in the soil. Epiphytic types absorb moisture and nutrients through the air and live in the tree canopy of their native environments, while lithophytes dwell in rock crevices.

The greatest variety of orchids come from tropical Asia, where rainforest conditions give way to drenching rains and drying out cycles. Others are native to different areas across the globe, including most parts of the U.S. Much of their care relates to their native environment.

Optimal Light for Orchids

Blooming multicolored flowers with broad, rounded petals and long, curved sepals in shades of pink, purple, and white, with glossy green leaves, sit on a light-filled windowsill.
Adjust placement for the right amount of daily exposure.

While it varies, most orchids need bright, indirect sunlight to bloom. Other cultural conditions to consider are temperature, water, and air circulation. Most need a difference in daytime and nighttime temperatures to set buds, with 10 degrees cooler at night. Take care not to overwater – while orchids are tropical plants, they don’t do well in overly damp potting media. And, roots need good air circulation and room in the pot.

The tropicals generally need about six hours of bright, indirect, or diffused light daily. For some, their indoor requirement is double what they require in nature. East-facing windows work for many species, allowing the morning sun and indirect sunlight in the afternoon.

In a west-facing situation, take care to place pots away from the window’s direct sun or filter it with a curtain. South-facing situations offer more light for sun-lovers (again, they may need a filter). And, north-facing windows offer the lowest light, suitable for cloud forest growers.

Here, we’ll dive into how to tell if an orchid is getting enough light. If the signs point to insufficient sunshine, move them to a brighter spot, like a windowsill facing a different direction or outdoors in summer. Err on the shady side rather than too bright, and introduce more sun gradually, as it’s easier for the orchid to acclimate.

Drooping Leaves

The plant displays glossy green leaves, one turning yellow, with aerial roots extending from the base in a pot.
Limp, weak leaves suggest the plant isn’t getting enough.

Leaves are the best visual indicator of whether or not exposure is sufficient. If they’re floppy or droopy, low light may be the issue. For most species, leaves should be firm and upright or horizontal instead of long and wimpy. 

Limp, less rigid foliage happens when processes slow with a lack of energy from the sun. Water moves through the roots and upper growth more slowly, making them less turgid.

Shadow Test

Female hands hold a blooming plant in a decorative wicker planter on a windowsill, showcasing delicate white and purple flowers with narrow petals, a central lip, and long, lance-shaped green leaves.
A sharp shadow means plenty of light for plants.

The American Orchid Society offers a simple way to gauge adequate indirect light. To get more specific, invest in a light meter. This meter measures in foot candles in a given location and can be helpful if you grow a lot of orchids and other houseplants for placing them in ideal situations. (A footcandle equates the light to the brightness of a candle measured at one foot away).

For a quick measure, do a shadow test. Place your hand between the light source and the foliage (about 12 inches away from the plant). If you see a sharp, crisp, dark shadow of your hand, your light source is most likely powerful enough to support many species. If your shadow is hazy, fuzzy, and pale, low light may be an issue.

Discoloration

A woman with red nails displays the pale green, oval, elongated leaves of a plant forming a rosette in a white pot.
Yellow or burnt leaves mean it’s time to adjust conditions.

In addition to drooping or flopping, leaf color is the most visible factor in whether or not the orchid is getting enough sun. Leaves should be grassy and emerald green. We often associate lush, dark green leaves with healthy growth, but the deep pigment indicates low exposure. A light-to-medium green with slight yellow tones is a healthy leaf.

Leaves that are too yellow are a sign of stress. These may experience too much water or sunlight. In too much sun, foliage may turn yellow and brown, or spotty patches may appear on the leaf surface. This is where the sun scorches the tissues, causing burns or blisters and depleting the chlorophyll. Once this happens, it is irreversible on affected foliage, but healthy growth resumes with a move to less sun.

Few Flowers

A few lemon-colored Phalaenopsis flowers with delicate petals and a central lip in close-up.
Lack of blooms often signals the need for more sun.

If an orchid isn’t blooming, exposure is the first consideration. The most common cause is insufficient sunshine. Without enough light, the leaves and roots can’t absorb and process the energy needed to flower. But, given too much sun, leaves scorch, and buds won’t form.

If you’ve noticed a decline in the number of flowers or aren’t getting any blooms after a year, lack of sun may be the issue. If you don’t have a lot of natural light, grow lights are useful. Place grow lights one to two feet away from the plant and run them for up to 12 hours. Check your varieties’ preferences to avoid too much exposure (usually over 14 hours).

Dropping Buds

Close-up of Phalaenopsis bud turning yellow on a thin vertical stem among green oval buds.
Bright spots are ideal but avoid overheating delicate buds.

Bud blast is the response of tender buds to changing conditions. The orchid enters conservation mode to direct energy to roots, stems, and foliage rather than reproducing (flowering). Seemingly healthy buds fall from the stem. Cattleyas, Phalaenopsis, and Dendrobiums are especially susceptible

If your orchid drops its buds and shows other signs of low light, move it to a brighter spot. But, too much light also prevents buds from holding – it can overheat or scorch them. 

Knowing your type of orchid helps navigate its specific care requirements. Light, temperature, and water are important to fruitful budding and flowering. Fertilizing correctly, repotting, and pest and disease management are also key considerations in orchid care. Mimic your orchid’s natural environment for best growth and flowering.

Spindly or Slow Growth

Close-up of a potted plant with aerial roots on the potting mix, a small rosette of glossy green oval leaves, and a weak stem with wilted white flowers.
Stems grow weak and thin when sunlight is insufficient.

As they reach for those valuable UV rays, stems can become weak and thin when there is a lack. As water moves more slowly through plant parts with less of the sun’s energy, growth becomes less vigorous and may even stunt. Stems may appear shorter and smaller

Leaves may thin and stunt, too, although you may also find long, strappy ones as they strive to create a larger platform for absorption. Like solar panels, more surface area is necessary for them to collect less light.

You may also see fewer new roots develop in low light, or they’ll develop very slowly.

Preference by Species

Close-up of vibrant orange Vanda orchids with large, intricate petals that have speckled patterns, a central lip with a yellow throat, and long, narrow, arching green leaves arranged in a rosette.
Proper care for each species encourages frequent and healthy blooms.

It helps to know what type of orchid you have to meet its best cultural conditions. You’ll get more blooms and healthy growth, some even blooming multiple times a year in optimal conditions. Missouri Botanical Garden and the American Orchid Society offer a helpful breakout of low, medium, and high-light species. Here’s an overview:

Preference by Species
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