9 Ways You Might Be Killing Your Orchid
If your orchid is suffering, don't be too hard on yourself. These epiphytes can be a bit fussy about their care and environment. Join orchid enthusiast Melissa Strauss to talk about some factors that could contribute to your orchid's failing health.
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Orchids are popular houseplants. With their waxy leaves and breathtaking flowers, they make lovely gifts and are fun to collect. With more than 25,000 individual species, these wonderful plants span a fascinating range.
Most orchids are tropical epiphytes. This factors into their care in many ways. These plants grow mainly on trees in tropical rainforest conditions. They may prefer cool or warm weather depending on their elevation, but they all need a higher-than-average humidity level. They grow with their roots exposed to the air and take in moisture through their roots and some through their leaves.
If your orchid is looking less than happy lately, the most common reasons are care and environment. The great thing about that is you can usually make a small tweak and see great results. Time is of the essence, as their roots are highly susceptible to root rot. Let’s dig into some potential issues that could be killing your orchid.
Overwatering
Overwatering is the number one killer of orchids. To understand why this happens, we need to take a deeper look at the way they grow in their natural environment. As epiphytes, these plants grow on trees beneath the canopy of tropical rainforests. Some of these forests are warm, and those at higher elevations may have cooler overall temperatures.
Their exposed roots are the main factor in how easy it is to overwater them. Because they don’t grow with their roots beneath the soil, they get a lot of air circulation. While it rains frequently in these places, there is nothing to hold that moisture in the roots, so they dry quickly.
If you water your orchid too often, the potting media won’t have an opportunity to dry between waterings. The organic matter will begin to break down, and the roots will come in contact with fungal pathogens. This causes root rot, which, if not caught early, means certain death for your plant.
It’s important to establish a proper watering schedule to keep your epiphyte happy and healthy. Most orchids only need watering once per week if they live indoors. Outdoors, they can handle more frequent watering because the moisture evaporates faster. There are three methods of water, and they are not necessarily equal.
Overhead
Watering from the top down is the most common way we give our houseplants the moisture they need. Because of the type of potting material orchids grow best in, this isn’t the most effective way to give them when they need. The water will wash over the roots and won’t have much time to soak in. This makes this method less effective. Another issue with this method is that water can pool in the leaves and lead to crown rot.
Immersion
This is my preferred method, as it allows your plant to take in all the water it needs. This involves placing the container directly into a bucket or sink full of water and allowing it to sit for several minutes. As long as your container and potting mix have proper drainage, this method gives the plant ample opportunity to absorb all the moisture it needs. It also makes it easier to fertilize, as you can simply add your fertilizer to the water.
Ice Cubes
This is the most controversial method, but for many gardeners, it’s effective. If you commonly love plants to death, this method may be effective for you. The idea is that by setting a few ice cubes on top of the potting material, the ice melts slowly, and the orchid is able to absorb just enough moisture. The commonly accepted amount is three cubes, but it varies depending on the size of your ice cubes. You want to use the equivalent of about 1/4 of a cup once per week.
Wrong Potting Mix or Container
A primary, though less often considered, reason your orchid could be getting too much moisture is the wrong container or potting mix. Because of the way they grow, orchids don’t need them, and you shouldn’t put them in a standard potting mix. They need larger loose particles that drain quickly and thoroughly.
I purchase my orchid potting mix premixed, but it’s not difficult to make your own if you prefer. Commercial and nursery-produced orchid mix typically contains bark mixed with other large particles like charcoal, pumice, coco coir, sponge rock, and perlite. A ratio of 50-60% bark to 40-50% other materials is a good place to start.
In terms of containers, drainage is, again, the most important factor. There are three basic types of orchid pots, although some unconventional containers work well. Just take drainage and air flow into account. The three most common types are:
Wooden baskets
These open baskets have large, open spaces where water can freely flow through. These are fantastic for outdoors because they do the best job of mimicking the natural environment. However, particles fall through easily, so they can be messy indoors. Cutting a piece of hardware cloth or other mesh-like material to place in the bottom is helpful.
Ceramic orchid pots
These are the most decorative and beautiful. They are generally the most costly, as well. These ceramic pots will have holes in the sides, often made in a decorative pattern. They come in lovely colors and do a decent job of looking and functioning well. Just be sure to let them drain all the way. Most have attached trays on the bottom. You don’t want to let water sit in this and risk the potting mix staying wet.
Terracotta
These are great for indoor and outdoor plants. They’re not glazed, and the terracotta clay wicks water away from the roots. Make sure you find one made for orchids. These will have extra drainage holes in the sides and bottom.
Lack of Air Circulation
This goes hand in hand with the previous issue. Orchid roots need air circulation, and a lack of oxygenation can harm or potentially kill them. Because they like humidity and also proper drainage, stagnant air can cause the potting media to remain damp all the time. Outdoors, this is unlikely to be an issue, but indoors, it can be.
I keep my orchids in my bathroom windows in the winter. Cool, humid environments are perfect for the overgrowth of fungi. I find that sometimes I need to run the exhaust fan in there to keep the air moving. In larger spaces, this won’t be as great an issue, but it’s something to keep in mind. A fan is an effective tool for handling the problem of stagnant air.
Underwatering
Killing your orchid by underwatering is less common, but it does happen. It’s easy to overcompensate for overwatering by not giving enough. This can also happen from overhead watering if you don’t allow the water to run over the roots long enough for them to absorb it.
If your flowers don’t last long, or your leaves look wrinkled and softer than they should be, the plant is probably thirsty. Fortunately, this is easier to fix than overwatering. If you notice your orchid leaves wrinkling and becoming droopy or the visible roots looking gray and dried out, it needs a drink.
I recommend immersing your container in water and allowing it to sit for several minutes. This gives the roots an opportunity to absorb what they need. Make sure to adjust your overall routine to provide more moisture in the long term.
Humidity Too Low
This is a big one, and it goes along with underwatering. I mentioned that most orchids live in tropical rainforests. If you’ve ever visited a tropical rainforest, you know that the air is humid. The level can vary as far as what your particular species needs, but the range is typically between 40-70% humidity.
Phalaenopsis, which are the most common type to keep as houseplants, tolerate between 40-50% humidity. This makes them easier to care for in the home, as it’s not difficult to maintain this level. Others, like vandas, are not well suited for living indoors. They need a lot of light and prefer 60-70% humidity. It’s difficult and can be detrimental to other items in the home to maintain this level of moisture in the air.
Another consideration to make is the temperature of the air over the changing of seasons. Warm air holds more moisture than cool air can. Artificial heating also saps moisture from the air. When winter rolls around, you may find a greater need to supplement the humidity in your home.
I circumvent the dry winter air by keeping my orchids in a well-lit bathroom where the shower runs daily. You can also add a humidifier in rooms where you keep your houseplants, as many of them will need additional moisture at this time. A pebble tray is also an effective way to increase the humidity around a single plant.
Too Much Light
Giving your orchid the right amount of light is imperative to its health. Too much sun is going to be more of a problem than not enough. Going back to their natural environment, orchids grow in trees. They live happily beneath the canopy, where, depending on how high up they are, they receive plenty of filtered sunlight.
Some orchids prefer lower lighting. Phalaenopsis is sensitive to direct exposure. Others, like cattleyas, are accustomed to more exposure and can tolerate some direct sun. Very few are full sun plants. Most prefer their sun filtered through a sheer curtain. Privacy glass also works well.
Signs that your plant is getting too much sun include slowed growth and leaves that look paler than usual. Your leaves should be medium, bright green for most species, with phalaenopsis falling on the darker end of the spectrum. If you notice white patches on the tops, this is sunburn.
Those white spots will eventually progress to brown splotches. These ultimately rot, and you’ll need to remove them. Sun scorch is stressful to the plant and will inhibit growth and flowering. If you notice sun damage, remove the affected leaves and move your orchid to a spot with less direct light.
Not Enough Light
The other side of the light issue is an orchid that doesn’t get enough light, which could eventually weaken or kill the plant. Without the right amount, they don’t bloom, so it’s important to strike that ideal balance. Bright but indirect light is the ideal state for many orchids, with some tolerating a few hours of direct sun early in the day.
This means that your plant will be happiest near a window that doesn’t receive direct sun. An east-facing window is ideal, but a south-facing window is usually fine as long as it doesn’t get a lot of direct afternoon sun.
There are a couple of indications that your orchid isn’t getting enough light. The plant may have an abundance of dark green growth. Those leaves should be a lighter, yellowish green, ideally. Another indication is if your orchid has not produced flowers for more than one year. If this happens, there is a good chance it needs more exposure.
Lack of Fertilizer
The final piece of the care puzzle is nutrients. Orchids are heavy feeders, so they require a fair amount of fertilizer to perform their best. Without fertilizer, your plant may not die altogether, but it’s also unlikely to bloom, and it will grow more slowly. Because they like a lot of nutrients, and their potting medium doesn’t hold much, frequency is the key.
You can fertilize your orchids every two weeks during their growing season, which begins right after they flower and ends in the fall. In winter, don’t fertilize unless you’re growing a winter-blooming orchid. In this case fertilize less, about once per month. Specialty orchid fertilizers are easy to find at most retailers, but a balanced formula will work, too. Simply add some fertilizer to your water every two to four weeks.
Over-Fertilizing
Finally, over-fertilizing can be more damaging than not giving enough. Since they are heavy feeders and prefer a regular fertilizing routine, it’s easy to overdo it. This is even more true in the winter when your plant is taking in less resources.
When you give more fertilizer than your plant needs, you can end up with a buildup of salts. This causes what we commonly call fertilizer burn. It damages the roots and inhibits their ability to take in water and nutrients.
An orchid with fertilizer burn may have brown leaf tips and a white film over the roots and potting media. If this occurs, know that you can’t undo the damage, but you can stop it fairly quickly from progressing. Simply flush the potting medium and roots with fresh, clean water and hold back on your fertilizing frequency for a while.
Key Takeaways
Striking the right balance when it comes to water, light, and nutrients is important when you care for an orchid. Their sensitive roots can make them more difficult to manage. If you keep in mind their native environment and growth conditions, you will have a healthy, thriving, and beautiful orchid for years to come.
