5 Signs Your Orchid is Getting Too Much Light

Orchids can be picky about their exposure conditions. Too little, and they won't flower, but too much can leave behind serious leaf damage. Join orchid enthusiast Melissa Strauss to talk about signs that your plant may be getting too much sun.

A close-up of an orchid plant with large green leaves with white sunburned spots due to too much light.

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Beautiful, tropical, high-maintenance orchids are picky about their environment. Learning to meet their needs is a process and, sometimes, an exercise in trial and error. This is especially true when it comes to light

Orchids come by their reputation for being fussy for good reason. From pots to potting mix, humidity, and fertilizer, every question about their care seems to have a unique and unexpected answer. Understanding their habits and habitat is key to creating the right environment in your home. 

How Much Light Do Orchids Need?

A blooming orchid with a cluster of soft apricot-colored flowers sits gracefully on a sunny windowsill.
Bright, indirect light works best for most tropical plants.

In order to determine how much sunshine your plant needs, we need to talk about its habitat and its habits. Most of the orchids we keep as houseplants are tropical epiphytes. They grow in trees in tropical rainforests of varying elevations. They prefer mild temperatures and plenty of moisture. They take their light filtered through the canopy overhead. 

All orchids do not have the same light requirements; some tolerate more sun, and others need decidedly less. For most, however, bright, indirect, or filtered exposure is best. The amount they need and how much direct sun they can tolerate varies. It’s always good to know what species you are working with and how that particular plant responds to light. 

Here are some of the more common orchids you will find in nurseries and the amount of light they typically prefer:

Phalaenopsis

This is the most common species you will find for purchase. They are incredibly easy to find, as most grocery stores with floral departments frequently have them in stock. These are the most tolerant of low light. Keep them out of direct sun at all times. Medium to bright is best.

Cattleya

More tolerant than some. These can handle a few hours of direct exposure, but it’s best if they happen early in the day.

Oncidium

These can tolerate several hours of direct exposure. They will be happiest with bright light all day and some direct.

Dendrobium

Little to no direct exposure. Bright light in the early part of the day, shade in the afternoon.

Vanda

Tolerates nearly full sun. Requires bright light for most of the day. Best grown outdoors or in a greenhouse.

Cymbidium

Up to 4 hours of direct exposure, bright indirect for the rest of the day.

Epidendrum

Bright, indirect, with very little direct exposure, and none in the afternoon.

Miltonia

Bright, indirect, no direct exposure.

Brassavola

Bright with some direct, early in the day.

So, how can you tell if your particular orchid is getting too much sun exposure? You’ll find the answer by looking at the leaves. Orchid leaves should be medium to light green and may have a slight yellow tint, with a few exceptions, like phalaenopsis, which has darker foliage. Here are some telltale signs to look for. 

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Slower Growth

Close-up of a potted plant with broad, elongated green leaves, each featuring a glossy texture and smooth edges on a sunlit windowsill
No blooms and slow growth often signal sun issues.

One of the first and most mild symptoms of an orchid getting too much light is slow growth. When they don’t get enough, these plants tend to put on a lot of dark green growth, but they won’t flower. Likewise, if overexposed, their growth will slow, and they still may not flower

Most orchids need to be in a sweet spot to produce those beautiful blooms. While this degree of sun damage isn’t likely to result in any long-term damage, you want to see those flowers. If you’ve noticed a period of slow growth and no flowers, think about giving your orchid a bit less sun

Yellow Leaves

Pale green, yellowish leathery leaves with slight ripples extend from the center of the plant in a graceful arrangement in a plastic pot on a sunny window.
Uniformly yellowing orchid leaves usually indicate too much light exposure.

Orchid foliage should be medium to light green and can sometimes have a yellow tint. However, too much yellow means you’ve probably got a light issue. Be careful, though; there are other reasons for yellow leaves that need different treatment.

If they are yellowing at the base, where they attach to the rhizome, but not on the lengths, the issue is likely root rot. Either the roots or the crown has been compromised, and the plant has a fungal infection. Moving it to a new location won’t fix this. It is typically the product of overwatering.

If, however, the leaves are uniformly lighter and more yellow than they ought to be, overexposure is the most likely culprit. At this stage, it’s not done any extreme damage, so moving is all you’ll need to do. A sheer curtain is a good filter if you can’t move it out of its space. 

Red or Purple Tint

Close-up of a potted plant featuring a sun-damaged leaf with red-yellow discoloration and purple spots.
A hint of red color change may mean more sun than needed.

What if your leaves are turning shades of red and purple? This is less common, but it’s another indication of overexposure. You may have noticed this habit in some succulent plants. It is a common response to both excess cold and sun. 

This is a common habit in phalaenopsis, which prefers to stay out of the sun. It’s usually a sign of only slightly more exposure than necessary. Think of it as a tan rather than a burn. The plant produces anthocyanins to protect it from ultraviolet rays. 

Some gardeners like this, as it can be quite pretty. It’s not harmful at this stage, so if you like it, you shouldn’t worry about moving your plant. Just keep an eye on that foliage for burn marks, which we will identify in just a moment. 

Bleached Spots

A man's hand displays smooth, deep green leaves arranged symmetrically around the stem, showing white sunburn spots.
Sunburn shows as light spots and needs time to progress.

While long-term, consistent overexposure will turn your foliage yellow, if it’s acute, you may see some more serious signs of sun damage. If you don’t catch it in time, or if the exposure is brief but intense, you may see bleached areas on the foliage

If you notice spots, large or small, that have a whitish cast, as though they’ve been bleached, this is the beginning of sunburn. At this stage, it’s likely to be permanent damage, and you may lose that leaf. Don’t do any cutting yet, though. Give it a little time to see if it progresses. 

If the white areas don’t progress, it’s best to leave them. They will not recover and regain their previous color, but the damage isn’t deep enough to warrant their removal. However, if they begin to darken and get soft, they need to go. 

Brown Spots

Close-up of a shiny, rich green leaf with a large brown dry spot illuminated by sunlight.
Dark burn spots may lead to rotting if untreated.

I left a gorgeous phalaenopsis out on my deck one day, planning to re-pot it. Well, I got sidetracked and ended up not getting to it until the next day. In just a few short hours of intense afternoon sun, there were large brown burn marks on a significant amount of the foliage. 

If the sunburn from too much light is severe, you will see dark burn marks on your orchid. Sometimes, if it happens gradually, you can salvage the leaf. The problem is these dark spots usually rot over time. You don’t have to cut them off right away, but if they do get mushy and begin to rot, you’ll want them gone as soon as possible.

While the burn itself isn’t contagious, the fungus that can move in as the tissue breaks down can affect the rest of the plant. If it creeps toward the center of the plant, it can affect the crown and ultimately kill the entire orchid. 

The good news is that even this degree of damage isn’t permanent if you catch it and deal with it. That means removal of the affected leaf( or leaves) and prompt relocation

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