How to Plant, Grow, and Care for ‘At Last’ Roses

‘At Last’ roses imply that, at long last, there is a rose with endearing, fully-petaled tea characteristics of pointed beauty and high fragrance in a robust, easy-care form. This modern rose incorporates the vigor of floribunda and shrub rose parents with a sweet perfume and petals that glow in apricot orange.

‘At Last’ combines unique coloration with a beautiful rosette, handsome foliage, and reliable performance. With a full, rounded form and minimal maintenance, this hardy selection performs like a landscape rose. There is no need for spraying or intensive management for healthy growth. Their carefree nature and nonstop blooms enchant the landscape with romantic overtones.

‘At Last’ Rose Overview

Botanical Name Rosa x ‘HORCOGJIL’  Plant Type Perennial shrub Family Rosaceae Genus Rosa	Species hybrida ‘HORCOGJIL’ Native Area Cultivated origin Exposure Full sun Height 30 -36” Watering Requirements Medium	Pests & Diseases Blackspot, powdery mildew, aphids, scale, Japanese beetles, rosette disease Maintenance Average Soil Type Average Hardiness Zone 5-9

What are ‘At Last’ Roses?

‘At Last’ roses are disease-resistant with continual blooming and high fragrance. The shrub and floribunda rose hybrids combine the vigor of their parentage in a compact, dense, mounding form. Large, peachy-coral orange blossoms grace the plants from late spring through frost.

This rose is a hybrid from Heather Horner of Stansted Mountfitchet in the U.K. and a Proven WinnersⓇ introduction. It results from cross-pollination between Rosa x ‘Laura Ford’ x  ‘Goldbusch’ as the seed parent (mother plant) and Rosa x ‘Horjilly’ as the pollen parent.

‘Laura Ford’ is a recipient of the Royal Horticultural Society Award of Garden Merit. The yellow, perfectly pointed rosettes are sunny on an English rose form. ‘Goldbusch’ bears honey-colored blossoms on a shrub rose base, vigorous with repeat flowering and long, arching stems. The pollen parent ‘Frilly Jilly’ is a ruffly floribunda in golden apricot hues.

These floribunda/shrub hybrids make a lovely show in mass, hedges, and foundation plantings. They’re ideal in cottage and cutting gardens, fragrance-themed arrangements, large containers, and as a focal point.

‘At Last’ is low-maintenance and easy to care for, making it versatile and unfussy for experts and novice gardeners alike. It glows in the display as a warm neutral with varying hues of calming apricot.

Characteristics

‘At Last’ brings a cover of sturdy, fully-petaled, double-orange flowers as temperatures warm in the spring. They boast an extended flowering season with repeat blooms through cool fall temperatures. The apricot shades fade to a lovely light pink as the blooms age. Yellow stamens appear among the petals as flowers open, an asset for pollinators.

The shrubs grow three feet tall and wide and have a dense, rounded habit. Their handsome, glossy dark green foliage provides the perfect backdrop for the vivid rosettes. The stems have thorns but, fortunately, don’t require fussy pruning except to retain shape and promote buds, which develop on new wood in early spring.

‘At Last’ resists common rose diseases of black spot and powdery mildew. The uncomplicated rose grows with minimal special treatment for healthy growth, including not needing spray applications for pests and diseases.

Native Area

‘At Last’ has its lineage in old garden roses, floribundas, and hybrid teas. Its ancestors date back to wild species native to Asia, particularly China. The plants are of cultivated origin through hybridization.

Floribundas arose from crossing a hybrid tea with a polyantha. Polyanthas are rugged and vigorous growers. They produce clusters of small blooms and repeat-bloom on upright shrub forms. Hybrid teas have lineage in old garden selections, leading to their florist-worthy pointed buds and stylized blooms.

Old garden roses, the foundation for modern roses, appeared before 1867 when the first hybrid tea roses came into circulation and surpassed the antique selections in popularity. Heirloom roses feature high fragrance, vigorous and disease-resistant foliage, and often repeat flowering.

Planting

Roses, even disease-resistant ones, need good air circulation to stave off fungal problems. Avoid overcrowding and provide ample space around the shrubs for airflow. Plenty of space also gives roots and upper growth room to spread.

‘At Last’ are compact growers, reaching only a few feet wide. Their size makes them easy to tuck into several garden situations, including containers. Grow them as potted specimens to enjoy their vibrance and fragrance up close.

Transplanting 

Plant roses any time of year as long as conditions are mild. Fall and spring are best with moderate temperatures and regular seasonal moisture. Plants settle in and establish before winter or summer extremes.

When planting, dig a rugged hole twice the size of the root ball or nursery pot. Loosen the surrounding soil in all directions, and amend with compost. Gently loosen any tightly packed roots. Plant the rose at crown level or slightly higher to prevent settling below the soil line.

Choose a container twice as big as the nursery pot for potted selections. Install the rose in a high-quality potting mix for best drainage, moisture retention, and aeration. Water regularly when the surface is dry to two inches deep for consistently moist soils.

How to Grow

All roses benefit from certain growing conditions for optimal health and flowering. With its durability as a landscape rose, ‘At Last’ is carefree without the need for intensive maintenance. Air circulation, healthy soils, and proper lighting are essential to healthy growth.

Light

These flowering shrubs grow best in full sun. They flower and show the most disease resistance in six or more hours of daily sunlight. 

They grow in partial shade, but increased shade decreases flowering and overall health. Ensure at least four or more hours of sunlight for the best vigor. They tolerate afternoon sun protection in hot, southern climates. 

Water

Roses need about one inch of water per week to establish strong roots. Once established, regular rainfall is usually sufficient (depending on your climate), with supplemental irrigation during hot or dry spells. Water deeply when soils are dry to a depth of one inch. 

When newly planted, ensure the surrounding soil stays moist. Watering too frequently or shallowly increases the likelihood of pests and fungal diseases. Deep, soaking watering sessions are best for developing far-reaching roots.

The shrubs do best with morning water. Drip or ground-level irrigation helps prevent splashing the leaves and fostering foliar diseases. Adaptable selections like ‘At Last’ should perform under overhead irrigation or sprinklers; watering in the morning gives leaves time to dry in the sun.

Soil

Loose, rich, slightly acidic loamy soils with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5 are optimal. ‘At Last’ grows in average soils as long as they have good drainage.

At planting, add three to six inches of compost made from completely broken-down plant material. Compost helps with aeration, moisture retention, drainage, and nutrition. 

Temperature and Humidity

This species is hardy down to USDA zone 5 and up to zone 9. Mulch around plants to help regulate temperatures, keeping roots cool in the summer and providing insulation in the winter. 

Protect the crowns for best overwintering success in cold winter climates and lower zones. Add extra mulch, leaf litter, or evergreen boughs to cover the crowns for insulation. Remove the excess in early spring as temperatures warm to allow new growth.

Fertilizing

A balanced fertilizer in early spring ensures a vital growing season. Fish emulsion, seaweed extract, or an organic rose-specific fertilizer are viable options to promote healthy roots, leafy growth, and flowering.

Maintenance

To retain a complete form and promote new wood for budding, prune the floribundas by one-third in late winter or early spring as new buds emerge on stems. Cut just above a healthy bud for vigorous new growth. Aim for a rounded form for the best aesthetic and most natural habit. As preventative maintenance, remove crossed, diseased, or dead canes at any time of year.

Deadheading spent blooms promotes faster flowering but is not essential for continual blooming. ‘At Last’ self-cleans and freely flowers without removing aged rosettes.

Maintain a three-inch layer of mulch year-round to retain moisture, regulate temperature, and suppress weeds. Mulch also adds nutrients to the soil as it decomposes.

Remove diseased leaves and those from the ground as part of regular maintenance. Removing fallen leaves and flowers promotes overall health and reduces the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Propagation

Rosa x ‘HORCOGJIL’ is protected by a plant patent (PP27541), which prohibits propagation. To add to your collection, you must legally purchase them from the parent company or associated retailer.

Common Problems

Choosing a disease-resistant plant and providing the appropriate cultural conditions are the first steps to healthy and beautiful roses.

While ‘At Last’ has good disease resistance to black spot and powdery mildew, they’re not immune to disease. Aphids, beetles, scale, and spider mites may be occasional visitors. 

Planting in full sun with plenty of air circulation and average moisture helps prevent problems. Pruning and removing diseased leaves also reduces the spread of pests and diseases. 

Certain companion plantings like lavender, catmint, allium, geranium, and agastache help repel pests like aphids, beetles, and mites. They also attract beneficial insects, creating a well-rounded garden system.

Pests

The best way to control insects is to spot them early. You’ll see the insects themselves, or you’ll notice their sticky waste on plants (aphids), their nibble damage to leaves (beetles), or their webbing and yellowing of leaves (mites).

Aphids are common garden insects usually treated with non-chemical means. Often, they cause no damage, but severe infestations cause stress. Signs include curled leaves and stunted growth. Spray them with a strong stream of water from a hose. If necessary, follow up with neem oil or horticultural soap.

Scale pierce leaves and stems to feed on sap. They appear on the undersides of leaves and stems as black, gray, or silvery dots. Leaves may yellow and drop, with branches dying back in heavy infestations. Remove affected plant parts in severe infestations. Pop small populations off the plant with a cotton swab soaked in 70% or less alcohol.

Mites live on the undersides of leaves, feeding on plant juices. Spider mites are indicated by webbing and light yellowing of leaf surfaces. Beneficial insects like ladybugs and predatory mites help control populations. Spray them with a stream of water from a hose. It’s important to ensure mites don’t take hold on your roses, as some are vectors for the deadly rosette virus.

Japanese beetles feed on leaves, causing them to turn yellow and drop. In some cases, they’ll skeletonize foliage. Hand-pick them off your plants as they feed. Treat soil where they’re known to be active with two treatments of beneficial nematodes spaced two weeks apart in temperate seasons.

Diseases

As with pests, the best disease control is prevention through cultural conditions. In general, it’s best to remove problem roses from the garden to minimize chemical treatments and promote the health of surrounding plants.

Powdery mildew is a common fungal disease indicated by a gray-white powdery substance on leaves, stems, and buds. Leaves may distort and drop. To prevent the spread of this fungal disease, prune appropriately and remove any powdery foliage as you notice it.

Black spot fungus carries black spots with feathery margins on leaves and stems. Black spot occurs when leaves remain overly wet from overhead watering or periods of prolonged moisture. If spraying leaves with water to deter pests, do so in the morning or midday when leaves will have time to dry in the sun. Remove damaged foliage as it crops up.

Horticultural oils like neem treat black spot and powdery mildew (but again, these impact beneficial insects, so be sure to follow application requirements).

Rosette virus is a deadly disease that causes distorted growth in roses. New leaves remain red and stems take on an excessively thorny appearance. Control mites to limit the spread of this disease. Remove any rose bushes that contract rosette and destroy them.