How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Peperomia

If you want to add pops of green, waxy reds, and streaks of gold to your living space, look no further than peperomia. These flowering plants are native to Central and South America and fit right into the domestic climate. 

As tropical plants, they don’t need full sun or high heat to thrive. There are over 1000 species within the Peperomia genus with varying natural habitats. That means there’s a wide range of growing conditions depending on the variety you choose. 

But that doesn’t mean these lovely plants aren’t easy to care for. We’ve dedicated this piece to discussing what peperomia plants prefer, and how you can emulate those conditions in your home. 

What is a Peperomia?

Because they subsist in varying habitats, peperomias have different botanical structures. The genus includes four types: epiphytes, lithophytes, xerophytes, and geophytes. Some enjoy the humid jungle floor; others prefer the warmth and dryness of the desert. What is common among all species is their perennial shrub or vining growth pattern. 

Native Area

Peperomias have many common names that refer to their particular species or variety. Many are known as the radiator plant, and are native to South and Central America, though there are some species native to Africa too.

New species of peperomia are identified on a regular basis. For now, the entire genus is composed of over 1000 species. Most are grown as indoor plants in North America. The area they cover is the tropical and subtropical areas of the continents.

Characteristics

The flowers are barely noticeable and bloom in long spikes. These die away, revealing small berries that shrivel and fall to the ground. Within the flesh of the berry is a single seed that has the ability to grow another peperomia. These are dust-like and may be difficult to obtain for growers at home.

There are a few edible species out there, adding a dash of peppery flavor to fresh salads and cocktails. Although not all are used in culinary settings, they’re largely non-toxic, making them great for homes where pets and children reign. They have been used in Peru as medicine for a long time too. And they will clean the air in your home.

Much like other houseplants, peperomia is easy to propagate and offers instruction to those who want to dip their toes in the propagation pool. 

Varieties

Different peperomia types refer to their habitat. Epiphytes grow on other plants, like trees, or bushes. Lithophytes grow in the crevices of rocks. Xerophytes grow happily in dry areas and are drought-tolerant. Finally, geophytes live and spread through the earth’s soil. Those growing on plants, among rocks, and in desert-like conditions have less substantial roots than those living in the soil. In the geophytic case, the roots are tuberous, and the foliage is succulent.

Peperomia alata

Winged peperomia is a geophytic perennial that spreads by rhizomes. ‘Wings’ extend off long leaf stems and it develops tight, furry-looking green flower spikes. The medium to dark green leaves are oval to lanceolate. It grows in swamps and is a low ground cover.

Peperomia argyreia

Peperomia argyreia, or Peperomia sandersii is commonly known as the watermelon peperomia or watermelon begonia and is easily identified by the watermelon-like striped leaves. At certain angles, they look like tiny watermelons attached to a vine. Watermelon peperomia is not related to either watermelons or begonias. It originates in South America.

Peperomia blanda

Found in Hawaii, ‘ala’ala wai nui is an epiphytic bedding plant. It is also known as arid-land peperomia, or hairy peperomia and can also be found growing on damp rocks in most tropical regions of the world including Asia, Africa, Australasia, and the Americas. This deep green perennial is often considered a creeping or low-lying. May have height up to 20-22″, but usually stays close to the ground.

Peperomia caperata

Rippled, heart-shaped, thick leaves that are deeply textured with a bright green hue give this one the name ripple peperomia. It is also called little fantasy peperomia. Emerald ripple peperomia are somewhat succulent evergreen perennials that mound, with red stems reaching up to eight inches in height. Native to Brazil, does well in moderate to low-light environments and produces fuzzy white peperomia flower stalks. 

Peperomia nivalis

Averaging six inches in height, Peperomia nivalis has tiny leaves that are fleshy and hatchet-six inches in height, with tiny thick fleshy leaves that are hatchet-shaped. A common semi-succulent houseplant worldwide. Originating in Peru grows in a rounded mound, and has understated lower stalks that are nearly the same color as the leaves.

Peperomia obtusifolia

Peperomia obtusifolia, or Peperomia clusiifolia is also known under the names baby rubber plant, pepper face, blunt-leaf peperomia, marble peperomia, and green peperomia. These come from Mexico, parts of the Caribbean, and Florida. It looks like a rubber plant, but this evergreen with leathery, cupped leaves is not related to the rubber plant. Some cultivars have different coloration than the standard deep green. It can have cream, grey, or gold streaking, and it seldom gets larger than one foot tall or wide.

Peperomia pellucida

A host of names include pepper elder, shining bush plant, man to man, and silverbush. It has a mustard-like aroma when the leaves are bruised and is often used in traditional herbal medicine. It has clumping growth with succulent-like stalks, heart-shaped fleshy leaves, and shallow epiphytic roots. Native to the Americas and Asia. It is used as a food plant, medicinally, and ornamentally in South and Central America.

Peperomia prostrata

String of turtles is a great specimen for hanging baskets. This vining plant has oval leaves that look like turtles. Needs indirect sunlight and high humidity.

Peperomia nitida

AKA Peperomia serpens and Peperomia scandens ‘Variegata’, cupid peperomia is native to South America. This vining plant is great for hanging baskets and looks much like a variegated philodendron with medium to bright green heart-shaped leaves and cream streaks.

Peperomia tetraphylla

The acorn peperomia or four-leaved peperomia is epiphytic and native to Asia, Africa, New Zealand, Australia, and other Pacific Ocean island regions. It prefers moist, semi-tropical environments overall. Grows in clumps, covering tree branches or rocky outcroppings.

Peperomia polybotrya

This one has many names including Peperomia orba, Peperomia obtusifolia variegata and common names including variegated peperomia, coin-leaf peperomia, teardrop peperomia, and raindrop plant. It has an upright normal growth pattern, fewer leaves than other varieties, and a slow growth rate. Tear drop-shaped leaves live happily in a small container. Does best in small spaces where direct light is accessible. Brighter light is better than indirect sunlight.

Peperomia albovittata

White bird of paradise or blanket leaf plant is similar to Peperomia argyreia with defined silvery stripes. This slow-growing epiphyte is native to Ecuador and appreciates bright sunlight – insufficient light will cause slower growth. It has a mounding to upright form.

Peperomia angulata

Wonderful plants for hanging in bright, indirect light. Mildly variegated green and green-yellow leaves. Some of the most forgiving plants in this category.

Peperomia incana

Felted peperomia is an evergreen perennial with fuzzy or felted leaves. It is easy to care for, and produces flowers in summer. Does best in bright indirect light, in a container with substantial drainage holes. 

Peperomia wheeleri

Wheeler’s peperomia is found almost exclusively in Puerto Rico. It’s an epiphytic, clinging to native rocks and humus that is considered endangered by the U.S. Department of the Interior. There have been steps taken to preserve specimens of wheeler’s, both in Puerto Rico and elsewhere. Occasionally displayed as ornamental, but is rare outside of ideal growing conditions.

Peperomia rotundifolia

Jade necklace is a vining perennial native to rainforests of South America. It is similar to prostrata with vibrant foliage colors that are bright green-yellow. It needs low light and grows best in hanging containers and terrariums. 

Peperomia ‘Rosso’

Eden rosso is very striking, even when compared to Peperomia argyreia. A mounding perennial with bright green leaves that have red undersides. Mounding, growing no taller than eight inches with white flower spikes. Requires basic care.

Peperomia ‘Rana Verde’

This variety has dark green heart-like leaves with deep venation. It is great indoors but needs a humidifier instead of overwatering. Prune only to help the plant focus energy on new growth. Do not give it excessive sunlight, and no supplemental fertilizer is needed in winter. Easily propagated from mother plant. 

Peperomia puteolata

Parallel peperomia from South America that spends its entire life on forest floors. Similar to watermelon, but with pointed leaves on both ends. It needs containers with good drainage holes. Avoid over-watering but keep soil moist to keep upright stalks healthy. 

Peperomia ferreyrae

Happy bean is a very interesting plant with succulent spiked leaves that give it a palm-like or conifer-like appearance, and like green beans. Great indoor plant for growing in containers with peat moss and adequate drainage holes. 

How to Grow

Care is simple as long as you know a bit about the variety you’ve chosen. Let’s cover the basic needs of most of these plants. Where specificities are needed, they’ll be addressed. 

Light

Peperomia plants often grow in jungle or rainforest environments, and because of that most can handle low-light conditions. Give them indirect light and turn your peperomia plants to encourage even growth patterns.

Smaller-leaved varieties grow in the lowest light conditions. The larger the leaves, the more bright light they need, increasing to a medium-light requirement. However, for most species, direct sunlight causes sunburning to the leaves and other damage.

Water

Wild peperomia plants receive water infrequently. Much will be absorbed through the leaves, so these plants prefer it to be relatively humid where they’re growing. Aim for 40-50% humidity, although higher may be better.

Water your peperomia plants sparsely at the base, and let the soil dry out before watering again. A good rule of thumb is to water every seven to ten days in spring and summer, and up to every 20 days in winter. If you keep your peperomias in a terrarium or grow them in the bathroom, the humidity keeps them happy.

Underwatering will cause the succulent leaves to curl up and brown, while excessive watering or plants that sit in water for too long will cause the tiny leaves of certain species to brown and get mushy. You can add media to the soil to help retain moisture and the beautiful foliage these plants are known for. 

One other rule of thumb with these plants is that xerophytes are totally ok with less than frequent watering and low humidity. This is why it’s important to know what species you’re working with when you grow peperomia. 

Soil

Since so many peperomia plants grow in loose soils or moss/humus in the wild, provide similar planting media for your houseplants. Regular potting soil or potting mix won’t cut it for most species. A sandy, well-draining potting mix works well or a houseplant potting mix with extra perlite blended in. A popular homemade potting mix for growing peperomia is a 50/50 blend of perlite with peat moss. This works quite well for any of the epiphytic varieties. Some of the ones which form tuberous roots will also do well in this potting mix.

Most enjoy fairly neutral soil at 6.0 to 6.6 pH. An acidic potting mix or potting soil might keep a plant alive but may not help your plants thrive. Most peperomias will do fine with succulent potting soil as they’re developed to be well-draining. Poor quality potting soil should be avoided, however. There are some peperomia plants that enjoy orchid bark or a combination of slightly decaying bark and peat moss, with additions of perlite and vermiculite for drainage. Drainage is most important for preventing root rot. 

Temperature

A baby rubber plant and other species of peperomia plants enjoy temperatures between 60°F and 80°F. Keep them indoors in times when outdoor temperatures creep outside this range. When it comes to peperomia, frost is a no-go. Therefore, don’t place them outdoors in freezing temperatures, or near cold windows. Peperomia plants are hardy to USDA zones 10 through 12.  

Fertilizing

Fertilize your peperomia plants more frequently during the spring and summer months than you would in the fall and winter months. Some varieties rest to rejuvenate during the cooler months. A balanced houseplant fertilizer applied every three weeks is good for the spring or summer. Dilute properly, and use it sparingly. Spray it directly on the potting mix rather than on the plant itself to avoid foliar burn.

In dormancy, reduce your frequency to every month in the fall, or month-and-a-half in winter. If you are lucky enough to live in a climate where you can grow your peperomia outdoors year-round, skip fertilizing in the fall and winter. 

Maintenance

Cosmetic pruning is the most you’ll do to maintain these plants. A peperomia won’t require more than softwood trimming from time to time. Remove dead or damaged stems with sterilized pruning shears. If your peperomia requires cosmetic pruning after that, remove individual stems close to the base, and plant those healthy stems as cuttings. To encourage bushier growth pinch back your peperomia plant in early spring. Remove the tips of the stems and the first pair of leaves. This helps the plant to bush out more.

A peperomia does best in smaller pots and is surprisingly happy even when rootbound. If it manages to become too large for its pot and starts to show roots coming out of the pot, increase only to the next largest size pot. As the soil compacts down over time, it becomes too dense for most of these plants to tolerate. When that happens it’s time to repot. Prepare a batch of fresh, well-draining soil or orchid bark mix, and carefully remove your peperomia from its pot. Knock off excess soil or compacted soil, and place it back into a new and fresh batch.

Propagation

If you want to know how to propagate peperomia we have an entire piece on that. In short, you can go about propagating peperomia by stem or leaf cutting. Propagating peperomia by leaf cuttings involves cutting off the leaf where the leaf joint intersects with the stem. Pot them immediately after dipping them in rooting powder. If they fall over, trim half of each leaf cutting. Then cover the propagation chamber with plastic to increase humidity.

Place the container out of direct sunlight, and remove the plastic every few days. Once new growth appears, you know your propagation was successful. For stem cuttings, cut them where they meet the larger stem, then place them in water up to the point where one to two leaf nodes are submerged. In two to six weeks, the stem cutting of your peperomia plant grows roots and can be placed in the soil in a relatively small container or can remain in the water, depending on the species.

Common Problems

Now that you know how to grow a thriving peperomia, let’s discuss a few of the issues you may face. Most radiator plants don’t have a slew of issues to consider, but here are some. 

Growing Problems

If plants you grow indoors are wilting and dropping leaves despite regular watering and fertilizing, their soil may have become too dense. At that point, repot to help your plant maintain vigor. Similarly, excess salts in the soil from overfertilization can cause your plants to wilt. Repot them in a fresh batch of mix to revive them.

Chlorotic leaves – or pale yellowing leaves – are there due to a lack of chlorophyll in the plant. This is a sign of nutrient deficiency and usually is related to a lack of either nitrogen or potassium. If caught early and fertilized, your plant can make a complete recovery. 

Pests

Both indoor and outdoor plants are susceptible to common pests, fungus gnats, and spider mites. These thrive in dry conditions, and keeping the humidity up around your plant can eliminate them. Avoid underwatering as well. Spider mites weave webs around the foliage and cause leaf drop. Whiteflies can also become a bit of an issue indoors, although usually in greenhouses. These eat the sap on your plants and cause yellow leaves.

Mealybugs and other scale insects can also take up residence on your plant, although they’re mostly outdoors. The leaves are appetizing to these annoying little pests. Thrips may also appear in outdoor conditions. All of these enjoy sucking the sap from your plants and cause leaf drop as well. Handle all of the above with a light misting of insecticidal soap or neem oil. 

While various types of caterpillars will feed on your peperomia, they are usually drawn to other targets first. Watch out for any trying to nibble your plants. Most can be hand-picked off your plants. It’s unlikely you’ll have more than one at a time.

Diseases

A wide variety of leaf spots can occur. These brown spots on leaves occur in environments where peperomia plants are subject to excessive humidity. Prevent brown spots by limiting improper watering and high humidity. Anthracnose is one of the most common, followed by Cercospora, Rhizoctonia, and Myrothesium. Treat them similarly.

Rots (especially root rot) are the result of fungal disease and can become a problem as well. Phytophthora stem & leaf rot, Pythium root rot, and Sclerotium stem rot (sometimes called southern blight) can appear on your plants. Verticillium wilt can also occur. For these diseases, your best protection is prevention. These are extremely rare indoors, but can usually be prevented by not overwatering and maintaining clean and safe soil. These fungi can cause peperomia to drop leaves, peperomia wilting, and peperomia dying.

There are also two viruses that can inhabit peperomia, and these spread via pests like fungus gnats. Cucumber mosaic virus and ring spot virus both will make your plant rapidly sicken and die off. Keeping pests at bay is the best way to prevent these viruses. The virus causes deformed leaves, yellowed leaves, and dropping leaves. There is no cure and affected plants should be removed and destroyed.