Growing Orchids in Water: Myth or Hack?

Orchid roots have a complicated relationship with water, but some collectors say that hydroponics is the answer. Join orchid enthusiast Melissa Strauss to answer whether you can grow those tropical epiphytes this way. Or is orchid hydroponics just a myth?

A close-up shot of developing yellow flowers that showcases how grow orchids in water

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Orchids can be particular about their care and environment. As tropical epiphytes, most of these plants are native to tropical rainforest environments. They grow at different elevations and areas of the forest understory, living on tree hosts and sometimes growing from cracks in rocks. Understanding the conditions in which they thrive and how they function in general are key to taking care of them. 

Water plays a central role in the success or failure of your plant. The most common killer of cultivated orchids is root rot, which is caused by overwatering and poor drainage. Given this, it may come as a surprise to hear that anyone would attempt to grow them in liquid.

Hydroponics isn’t new, but it has become more popular in recent years. And while the notion of growing orchids this way may seem unlikely to be successful, there is some buzz about it. It’s definitely something that’s experimented with, but is it truly possible? Let’s talk about it.

The Short Answer

Close-up of a flowering plant features broad, glossy green leaves at its base and elegant, arching stems adorned with large, delicate, orchid flowers in vibrant pink shades.
The flowers can indeed develop in liquid or hydroponically.

Yes, you can indeed grow orchids in liquid or hydroponically. There are three methods used to carry this out: semi-hydroponics, semi-water culture, and full-water culture. Some orchids, like phalaenopsis, are better suited to the practice because of their sturdy, substantial root system.

In terms of it being a hack or a simplifying process, this is not always the case. However, there are some interesting advantages to it if you execute it correctly.

The Long Answer

A close-up of an orchid plant in bloom. Elegant white flowers adorned with purple hues capture attention. Securely attached to a dark brown tree, the orchid stands out against a backdrop of lush greenery, enveloped in the refreshing mist of the natural environment.
They can grow epiphytically, in water, or in soil.

The ability to grow orchids in water is not a myth. It’s certainly possible. When it comes to the word ‘hack,’ I have far less certainty, as experience has taught me otherwise. Growing orchids in water, which we typically call hydroponics, is a tricky process and requires significant attention to detail. 

I will say that the notion of growing them hydroponically unearths an interesting factor in cultivation. As it happens, orchid roots are great fans of moisture, and on their own, they are unlikely to rot. In nature, they are exposed to near-constant moisture in the form of rain and humidity. Yet, they managed to maintain their integrity for many years. They often live up to 20 years or more in the wild.

It is the introduction of potting media that puts them at risk. The organic material in these mixes breaks down faster when wet, and the environment is quick to invite fungus. Hydroponics removes the offender from the picture altogether.  

There are three methods of growing these flowering wonders in liquid. Each has benefits and drawbacks, and each requires a different care routine and amount of effort. I will cover the basics as we discuss semi-hydroponics, semi-water culture, and full-water culture in orchid cultivation. 

YouTube video

Semi-Hydroponics

A close-up shot of a developing plant attached to clay pellets in a well lit area.
This involves developing the plant in LECA or clay pellets that hold moisture.

With semi-hydroponics, liquid plays a main role, but you don’t do away with potting material altogether. Rather than using bark mix, which is the usual, you use something called LECA (Lightweight expanded clay aggregate) pellets. These hold moisture, but there is no compaction, so they allow air to circulate. They also don’t break down the way other organic materials do, so they aren’t prone to fungal infection. 

The benefits of this method are plenty. The lack of organic substrate minimizes the occurrence of pests and diseases. If you use a glass container, you can clearly monitor your plant’s root system. There is little need to re-pot, as there is no potting mix to break down and need replacing. 

The LECA pellets make a great foundation for your orchid, as they hold moisture. The roots only absorb what they need, and the pellets don’t decay. They also don’t compact, so they allow plenty of air to circulate around the roots, another deterrent to rot. 

In terms of the downside, switching to this method does have an initial expense in purchasing your new container, the LECA pellets, and specialty fertilizer. Hydroponic fertilizers make nutrients available to your plant without needing soil for them to break down. It can also make the roots more sensitive to light because of exposure.

My conclusion is that this is a good way to cultivate certain types of orchids. It has some start up costs associated, but not an excessive amount. It reduces the amount of attention you have to give, as watering is not necessary except to refill the container occasionally. 

How to Do It

Materials

  • LECA pellets
  • Rooting hormone*
  • Plastic or glass container 
  • Clean, sharp tool for cutting roots
  • Hydroponic fertilizer
  1. Rinse your LECA thoroughly, and then place them in fresh water for 24-48 hours. They will absorb the liquid during this time. *Optionally, add some rooting hormone before soaking to help get off to a strong start. 
  2. Soak your plant to loosen the roots to avoid tearing them. Gently remove your orchid from its container and work all remaining potting mix out. Leaving any behind will be a catalyst for rot. 
  3. Rinse the roots and lay your plant aside to dry completely. Use your tool to remove any unhealthy or rotted root tissue. 
  4. You can use the clear pot with drainage or simply use your watertight container. Add the LECA to your chosen container, place the roots, and fill in around them. 
  5. Fill the container part of the way with water. The roots should not be in the liquid at this point, though they may grow into it on their own. 
  6. Set your orchid in a space with indirect or filtered light. The roots are now exposed and will be more sensitive to sunburn.
  7. Flush out the liquid every few months and replace it with a fresh fertilizer solution. This is where it is easier if you use a container with drainage inside your container. 
YouTube video

Semi-Water Culture

A close-up shot of a gooseneck bottle with a developing plant in a solution with hydroponic fertilizer.
The method involves a cyclical immersion in and removal from a liquid solution.

The second method of growing orchids in water is semi-water culture. This method uses no potting material at all. Rather, it involves cyclical immersion in and removal from the liquid. They stay in for two to five days and then have a period of one to three days out in the open air. 

This method also eliminates the potting medium, which eliminates the most opportunities for decay and soil-borne pathogens. It has much the same benefits as hydroponics. It’s easier to monitor the health of the roots, and there is little need for re-potting, so the cost is low. 

Orchids like a lot of humidity, and all three methods offer a benefit in that department. As the liquid in the container naturally evaporates, it raises the humidity just around the plant. This reduces the need to add more moisture to the air in your home. 

On the downside, this method has more significant considerations to make. You’ll still need hydroponic fertilizer, and the exposed roots will need more protection from the sun. It’s also higher maintenance, as you are constantly cycling the plant into and out of the container. 

Another disadvantage that differs from the first method is the difficulty in supporting the plant. With no potting media or substrate at all, you’ll either need a container with a gooseneck, or your orchid will slip down into the liquid. 

Overall, I find this to be the most complicated and time-consuming of the three methods. It’s inexpensive, but if you’re not good at sticking to a schedule, it’s better to skip this one. 

How to Do It

Materials:

  • Glass Jar
  • Hydroponic fertilizer
  • Rooting hormone
  • Clean sharp too for cutting
  1. Soak and remove your orchid from its container, working out all pieces of potting mix. Leaving any behind makes it more susceptible to fungus. 
  2. Rinse the roots and set them aside to dry. When they are dry, use your tool to remove any damaged root tissue. 
  3. Place your plant in the chosen container and fill in around the roots with your fertilizer and water solution (with optional rooting hormone).
  4. Periodically change out the liquid to keep it fresh and safeguard against fertilizer burn and rot. 

Full-Water Culture

A close-up shot of developing flowers submerged in liquid in a glass container in a well lit area
This method involves submerging the flowers in liquid all the time.

Full and semi-water cultures are similar, with one main distinction. Here, the plant doesn’t go through the soaking and drying cycle. It remains submerged all the time. 

The most important factor is that you don’t submerge the roots entirely. Only the bottom 1/4 of them go in the liquid. Suspend the rest above the liquid where it will benefit from the humidity produced with evaporation. This keeps the majority of the root system dry and exposed to air but also moist from the humidity

In terms of benefits, this is inexpensive and requires little maintenance. You can see the roots, so it’s easy to identify any issues that crop up. As with the other methods, there is less exposure to potential pests and fungal pathogens that can inhabit potting materials. 

The drawbacks are similar as well, with root exposure and specialty fertilizer being the two primary issues. With this method, it can also be difficult to support your plant, especially as it gets larger and heavier. 

The idea behind full-water culture is that the plant can take in all the moisture it needs from the bottom 1/4 of the roots and the humidity in the container. Using a gooseneck container simplifies the issue of supporting the bulk of the orchid. 

How to Do It

Materials:

  • Glass container
  • Hydroponic fertilizer
  • Rooting hormone
  • Clean, sharp tool
  1. Soak the plant to make it more pliable, and gently remove it from the container. 
  2. Loosen and remove any potting material to avoid fungal pathogens. 
  3. Rinse the roots and allow them to dry, removing all dead, damaged, and rotted tissue. 
  4. Place your orchid in the jar or container and fill, submerging the bottom 1/4 of the roots in a solution of water, rooting hormone, and fertilizer. 
  5. As the liquid evaporates, refill with your solution. You can leave out the rooting hormone after the first time.

Key Takeaways

An isolated shot of several glass containers with liquid and developing flowers in a well lit area
Orchids can thrive when grown this way if done properly.

It’s certainly possible to grow an orchid this way. However, I recommend starting with a phalaenopsis. These are sturdy and have strong roots. Make sure all of your materials are clean to avoid introducing harmful pathogens and pay attention to the health of the plant over time. These methods help eliminate the threat of fungal disease and pest infestation and take a lot of the guesswork out of hydration.

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