How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Luffa

Whether you're going on a cleaning binge or just making lunch, growing luffa gets you what you need. This vine is easy to grow and harvest. Rachel Garcia shares our top growing tips.

A shot of a cluster of green colored fruits of the luffa plant

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Back in 2019, Epic Gardening created the Luffa Challenge and saw amazing results from our followers all over the world! So many people grew this intriguing vine with great success that we thought we’d share some tips and tricks with gardeners everywhere. So, if you haven’t grown one already, let’s take a shot at growing luffa, the homegrown shower sponge!

Many people think all shower sponges come from the ocean, but most commercially-produced sponges are actually dried fruit. The luffa is a climbing vine that produces cucumber-like gourds. As the gourds mature, their endocarp transforms into a fibrous network that’s mostly made of cellulose. This network forms the soft and absorbent exfoliator we’re all familiar with.

Though they’re most commonly used in the shower, luffa sponges are great for scrubbing pots, cleaning shoes, making mats, and painting textures. They’re even used as shock and sound absorbers as well as for filtering water. There isn’t much this vegetable can’t be used for!

The same goes for immature fruit. When still green, luffa gourds are just as tasty as the sponges are useful. They can be eaten raw or cooked. They highly resemble cucumbers, zucchini, and winter squash and are often cooked the same.

Whether you want to try a new veggie on your plate or a sponge in your shower, luffa is an excellent choice for your garden. It is a bit tricky to grow, so we’ll go into detail on how to succeed with this nifty vine.

Plant Overview

Long, slender fruits are green and ridged, resembling oversized cucumbers, with a unique texture that sets them apart, hanging from vines that trail along trellises.
Plant Vine
Family Cucurbitaceae
Genus Luffa
Species Luffa cylindrica (Cucumis melo), Luffa aegyptiaca, Luffa acutangula
Native Area Assam, Bangladesh, Himalayas, India, Africa, Australia
Exposure Full sun
Height 20-30′
Watering Requirements Moderate
Pests & Diseases Pumpkin flies, cucumber beetles, squash bugs, powdery mildew, downy mildew
Maintenance Low
Soil Type Well-draining, rich
Hardiness Zone 5-11

What is a Luffa?

Luffa vines are in the Cucurbitaceae family, also called the gourd family, which includes cucumbers, squash, pumpkins, and melons. There are over 900 species in this family, but only seven of them belong to the Luffa genus. We’ll be focusing on the cultivated species, particularly Luffa cylindrica (also known as Luffa aegyptiaca). Another common species is Luffa acutangula, which you may recognize as Chinese okra. Unlike the smooth cylindrica, its sides are ridged, earning it the nickname “angled luffa”.

Native Area

A shot of developing fruits on vines in a well lit area outdoors
The plant is native to Africa and Asia.

Although Luffa is the correct spelling of the genus, ‘loofah’ is a widely accepted common name. You may hear it go by loofah sponge, dishrag gourd, or vegetable sponge. It’s also called Egyptian cucumber, but its specific origin is unknown. Luffa is believed to have originated from somewhere in Southeast Asia. In fact, it grows wild and has escaped cultivation across Asia and Africa. In the US, luffa isn’t common for commercial growing as we import most of our luffa sponges from Japan. However, luffas are a great addition to home gardens in zones 5-11.

Characteristics

A shot of several developing green colored fruits hanging on a trellis showcasing its vines and leaves outdoors
The vines feature star-shaped leaves, yellow flowers, and fruits that resemble a cucumber.

Luffas are climbers. They grow vines that can shoot up to 50 feet tall in just one growing season, like hops. Adorning the vines are large, star-shaped leaves with a bit of a fuzzy texture. There are also cheerful, bright yellow blossoms. Luffa is monoecious, which means it has separate male and female flowers on the same vine. The male flowers are larger and clustered together. Female flowers, on the other hand, are smaller and solitary. 

Since they’re annuals, you’ll get a fresh start at growing luffa gourds each year. After planting in the spring, the luffa vines take two to three months to fruit and another month or two to mature into sponges. As the cucumber-like fruit further matures, the smooth surface becomes ridged, indicating that a network of fibers is hardening inside the gourd. On the outside, the skin becomes loose and papery. When shaken, you can hear the seeds rattling around inside.

Those in the Cucurbitaceae family contain cucurbitacin, a group of biochemical compounds that they use to deter predators. Luffas only have a small amount of cucurbitacin, so they aren’t harmful to humans. However, when consumed in large amounts, cucurbitacin can cause poisoning in humans and animals. This chemical gives off a bitter taste, so don’t eat any luffa gourd with a strong, bitter flavor.

Because of the cucurbitacin content, you need to use high-quality luffa seeds from a trusted source, whether it’s your local nursery or an online shop. Homegrown, hybrid seeds have a much higher potential of producing large amounts of cucurbitacin, which can be dangerous and a waste of time. If you’re only growing luffa for the scrubber and won’t be eating it, you can be more lenient with your seed choices.

YouTube video
Watch this video on the seeds of a luffa.

Planting

If you’ve grown cucumbers before, luffa will be very familiar. The planting and growing requirements are basically the same, with just a few tweaks. 

When to Plant

A shot of several hanging fruits of a vining plant outdoors
Start the plants before the first frost.

Since they’re tropical, loofah sponges need a long, warm growing season. In fact, you’ll only have enough growing time if you live in zone 7 or higher. For zones 5 and 6, start seeds indoors so the fruit can be harvested before the first frost. The soil needs to be at least 70°F (21°C) when planting, so you’ll need to start the seeds about four to six weeks prior.

Where to Plant

An overhead shot of developing vining plants showcasing its yellow flowers and star-shaped leaves
Plant the vines in an area that can be supported with a lot of vertical space and 3 to 4 feet of spacing.

Luffa sponge doesn’t transplant well, so its place in the ground will be permanent for the rest of the year. It’s most important that you choose a spot where you can put a trellis. You’ll need a lot of vertical space, as well as three to four feet of spacing between them.

Don’t set your luffa seeds where other Cucurbitaceaes were previously grown. There are pests and diseases that feed on the entire cucumber family that would be more likely to be hanging around in the soil.

You can grow individual ones in containers or a raised garden as long as they have enough space. Containers should be about a foot and a half deep and sturdy enough to hold a trellis as well. To make for easy watering, line the container with a cloth bag meant for growing and fill the bottom of the container with a reservoir of water.

How to Plant

A shot of a person in the process of sowing seeds in a large seed starting tray
Start the plant in a seed starting tray or on their permanent are outdoors.

Soak your luffa seeds for 24 hours. This will soften the seed coat and greatly increase the chances of germination. After they’re done soaking, immediately sow seeds either in a seed starting tray or their permanent home outside (depending on your climate).

Plant the luffa gourd seeds a half an inch deep in well-draining soil. For outdoor planting, make six-inch tall mounds and sow a few seeds in each. It’ll take about one to two weeks for the luffa seeds to germinate. After they’ve sprouted, thin the luffa seedlings down to one per mound.

Luffa seeds starting out in a tray will need a heating mat set to 70-85°F (21-29°C). After the seeds have sprouted, remove the heating mat. When the weather is warm enough outside, carefully transplant each luffa seedling into the ground.

Whether you planted straight in the ground or transplanted, cover the soil with a layer of mulch. It locks in heat and moisture and also supplies nutrients as it decomposes into the soil.

YouTube video
Join Kevin in this video on how to plant and grow a luffa.

How to Grow

The basic care requirements for loofah gourds are quite simple. However, when it comes to fertilizing and pruning, you’ll need to pay close attention.

Light

A shot of several hanging fruits on a trellis basking in bright sunlight outdoors
The vines develop best in full sun, with at least 6 hours our sunlight daily.

Luffa gourds need lots of sunlight. Throughout the entire growing season, they should be getting at least six hours of full sun. The more light they get, the better. That’s why it grows best in at least zone 5.

Water

A steady stream of water flows from a blue watering can, soaking dark, freshly tilled soil, in preparation for planting.
Provide the plants with medium watering and do not let the soil dry out but also not waterlogged.

From the very start, you’ll be keeping the soil consistently moist. Luffa needs medium watering, so the soil should never dry out, but never be waterlogged. Keep your luffa watered at the roots only. Getting the leaves or immature fruits wet can encourage fungal growth and invite pests.

Soil

A close-up of brown loamy soil, rich in texture with visible granules and organic matter, ideal for planting and gardening purposes.
The plant prefers a sandy loam or any fertile soil as long as it is well-draining.

Loofah does well with most soils as long as they’re fertile and well-draining. Ideally, use a sandy loam as clay soil blocks water drainage. The soil should be rich with organic matter and have a slightly basic pH (about 6.0 – 6.5).

Temperature

A shot of a green colored fruit in a bright sunny area outdoors
The vine thrives in temperatures above 50°F.

For your luffa sponge to survive, the temperature must always be above 50°F (10°C). It should be even higher if you want the plant to thrive. If the temperature dips down even after the danger of frost has passed, try to maintain warm soil by laying down more mulch, landscape fabric, or a clear dome (if it is small enough).

Fertilizing

A hand covered in dark soil holds bright yellow fertilizer granules.
Provide the plants with a nitrogen fertilizer during is growing time.

All that growth needs lots of nitrogen to support it. Supplement the soil with nitrogen fertilizer a few times throughout the growing time. Most gardeners will apply a slow-release fertilizer just after transplanting and again when the loofah starts to blossom. If you aren’t seeing much growth during the summer, supplement with a half-dose of liquid nitrogen fertilizer every few weeks.

Maintenance

A shot of rows of trellises with developing vining plants
Prune the plants to limit the fruit set and support them by providing trellises or a fence.

To keep your luffa vines healthy and tidy, provide a sturdy trellis or fence. Although they will grow on the ground, it’s very easy for disease to spread and the fruit to rot there. Trellises provide the air circulation needed to keep them healthy. Arch trellises are a great choice as they make for easy harvesting since the fruit will hang down away from the leaves. 

It’s also essential that you prune your luffa properly. Remove most lateral growth so there’s just one main vine. When it blooms, limit the fruit set to about 20 per vine. If your zone has a long warm season, clip off the first few blooms so it can get more established before growing fruit.

Near the end of the season, clip back new growth so all the energy can be directed into the fruit. This will help them mature faster, which is essential if winter is coming fast.

Propagation

A shot of two developing seedlings of a plant in a container
The plant is only propagated by seed.

Since luffa is naturally an annual, it’s only propagated by seed.

The seeds inside the mature gourds are dispersed short distances by the wind after the fruit breaks open. If you harvest dried sponges, you’ll easily collect the mature seeds once peeled. Store them in a dry, dark, and cool place until next spring.

If you’re growing loofah to eat, remember to only use store-bought seeds. However, if you’re only planning to harvest sponges, you can definitely save your own seeds.

Harvesting

A shot of several ripe fruits on a vine
Harvest time can vary depending on whether the crops are used for food or as sponges.

It’s the end of the season and hopefully you have some of your own luffa sponges to show for it. Whether you want to eat them or craft, we’ll clue you in on how to harvest.

Remember that gourds grow fast, so for edible loofah, you have to pick it on time. Otherwise, they’ll be a bit too fibrous to eat. Pick young loofah gourds when they’re under six inches long (about two months after planting). The fruit will be green and resemble a funky-looking cucumber.

If planning to harvest both luffas to eat and use as sponges, let the first few turn into sponges and harvest the later fruit for food. This will ensure you have plenty of time for the luffa gourds to mature.

Preparing Sponges

An overhead flat-lay shot of several mature crops and sponges
Harvest the mature fruits, peel off the outer shell, rinse, then sun-dry the sponge.

Mature luffa gourd is ready to harvest about three to six months after planting. It’s essential that you let the fruit completely mature on the vine, even if it means a very long growing season. As the green skin fades and the fruit starts losing moisture, cut back on watering to help it completely dry out.

When your loofah sponges are ready to pick, the outer skin will turn brown and papery and start to separate from the fibers underneath. They’ll be surprisingly light when you pick them up. If you shake the gourd, you’ll hear the seeds rattling inside. 

After harvesting, peel off the outer shell, starting from the top or bottom. If the sponges are ripe, the skin will come off easily. The seeds are located at the base of the fruit and should fall out easily. If you’re having trouble getting all the skin off, soak the gourd in water for two to three days and try again.

Now that you have your homegrown sponge, give it a rinse and a quick sun-dry. Some gardeners will even soak their sponges in a 10% bleach solution for an hour or two to disinfect and turn it white. You can make use of the holes in the center and loop a cord through it for hanging or glue a dowel inside to make a handle. If you want multiple pieces, the fibers are easy to cut with a serrated knife.

Storage

A shot of freshly harvested and sliced crops placed on a wooden table indoors
The fruit doesn’t store well, it is best to consume them as soon as possible.

Eat your green luffas raw or cook them in place of zucchini or summer squash. These gourds are particularly popular in stir-fries and scrambled eggs.

Unless they’re completely dried, luffa fruit don’t store well. You may be able to squeeze a few extra days of life into them by storing them in the fridge wrapped in a paper towel. Your best option, however, is to eat this vegetable as soon as possible.

Common Problems

Many of the pests and diseases for loofah are shared with cucumbers, winter squash, and other gourds. Thankfully, that means we already know how to deal with them so we can keep our vigorous vines healthy!

Growing Problems

A shot of a leaf of a crop that is damaged due to frost outdoors
Most growing problems stem from overwater, improper pollination, and environmental changes.

You can normally expect at least five to ten fruits per plant. If you aren’t getting many fruits, it’s likely that you’re overwatering the roots. Too much water, especially during blooming and fruiting, can greatly decrease the yield. Cut the water to just enough to maintain the soil moisture, and it should start to produce.

Another issue we see with loofah is the flowers or immature luffas falling off. This isn’t a sign of a weak vine, but of improper pollination. If the fruit isn’t pollinated, it has no use for it and will stop putting energy into producing. You’ll have to ensure proper pollination by doing it yourself with a Q-tip or paintbrush. If you only have one vine, try planting multiple ones next year so you have a greater chance of the female and male flowers opening at the same time.

Pests

Coseup of a yellow cucumber beetle with black stripes, sitting on a green leaf.
Pumpkin flies, cucumber beetles, and squash bugs are common pests of the vining plant.

Pumpkin flies are orange and brown menaces that lay their eggs on immature gourds. The maggots then feed on the gourd, causing dry, dark brown, sunken regions. The damage will start to rot, making the fruit far from palatable. To control these pests, catch the problem early on by destroying any fruit with said lesions and completely removing it from the garden (don’t add it to your compost bin!). This ensures that the maggots present can’t continue reproducing in your garden. If the problem persists, you can use an organic pesticide.

Cucumber beetles may be pretty, but they’ll wreak havoc on any Cucurbitaceaes in your garden. These pests will feed on roots and leaves, often spreading disease along with the damage. You may need to turn to ladybugs and lacewings to get rid of these pests. You can prevent future infestations by using floating row covers or dusting with kaolin clay.

The notorious, flat, brown squash bugs may have their sights set on your luffas. They’ll feed on the fruit and leave their gross eggs underneath the leaves. In the winter, adult squash bugs hunker down in leaves, rocks, and other debris. A good place to start is keeping the soil clear and removing spent vines. Basic pest repellents like diatomaceous earth and neem oil work well here, though diatomaceous earth won’t harm the adults. Bagging the fruit in a breathable, stretchy cloth bag can protect it from squash bug damage, too.

Diseases

A close-up of a large green leaf displaying white-gray powdery mildew, indicative of a fungal disease.
The plant is susceptible to powdery mildew and downy mildew.

If you have your own garden, you’re sure to encounter powdery mildew at some point or another. This common garden disease leaves a powdery, white dusting on the leaves and saps away the nutrients. The spores spread by the wind, so it’s very important that you remove any diseased material immediately. Neem oil, is a good option for handling powdery mildew.

It may look and sound like powdery mildew, but downy mildew brings its own problems to the garden. It’s a fungal mold that thrives in warm and humid conditions. Instead of white powder, it makes yellow and brown spots on the leaves. Downy mildew can spread through infected seeds; therefore, if you notice this disease, you shouldn’t save your seeds for next year’s planting. As always, neem oil is a great option here. To prevent this disease, ensure that you’re only watering at the base so the vine, leaves, and fruit are dry.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take for luffa to grow?

Luffa for eating will be ready in about two months. Loofah sponges, however, take anywhere from three to six months to fully develop their fibrous flesh.

Is luffa hard to grow?

It’s picky about a few things, like sunlight and not being transplanted, but luffa shouldn’t be too hard for an intermediate gardener.

How many loofahs does a plant produce?

Most vines will usually produce at least five. However, some can grow over 20 loofahs!

Can you grow luffa on the ground?

You can, but we don’t recommend it. It’s really easy for the fruit to rot when it’s on the ground.

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