How to Save and Store Amaryllis Bulbs for Next Year

Most winter and spring blooming bulbs grow best in the ground, although amaryllis is an exception. They perform well in pots and can grow indoors most of the year. They’re frost tender, meaning they’ll rot in cold regions where winter frosts are common. 

Properly saving and storing amaryllis ensures they sprout blooms the following winter through spring. They’ll need continuous care during the growing season, a winter dormancy period, and a few weeks of growth before they bloom again. 

Don’t worry! We’ll cover everything this species (botanically known as Hippeastrum) needs to survive and thrive from one season to the next. We’ll mimic the native conditions from Central and South America to properly save and store amaryllis bulbs for healthy regrowth.

How to Save Amaryllis Bulbs

Amaryllis can thrive indoors, outdoors, or in a container during the growing season. Which option is best for you depends on your garden, the climate, and your preferences.

Keep Them Growing

Most amaryllis bulbs come in clear, glass containers full of water or pots with soil. They’re often available around the holidays, as their bright pink, red, and white flowers match garlands, wreaths, and Christmas trees. Although they bloom in winter, they need warm conditions after flowering.

Place your amaryllis near a window with bright filtered light for most of the day. Some direct sunlight is okay, although it may cause scorching on indoor specimens. Potted plants appreciate moisture once their surface dries, about once every week or two.

If your bulbs are sitting in water, they’ll need to grow in soil after flowering. Plant them in a container with potting soil, ensuring they sit with their necks above the soil line. Half of the bulb should be underground while the other half sits above the pot. Fertilize them once or twice a month post-flowering to maintain their health until mid-fall as they enter dormancy. 

You may keep your plants indoors for the rest of the growing season if there’s space in your home. They’ll grow well, as household temperatures mimic the climate of their native habitat. 

Remove Wax

Some stores offer waxed amaryllis bulbs! They have thick coatings around them that keep them moist, perky, and succulent. If you plan on cultivating the plant after it flowers, you’ll want to remove the wax before planting it in the soil.

Pulling the wax off may pull the outer sections of the bulb off, which could threaten their survival. Carefully remove the wax so as not to damage the plant. If wounds appear, let the plants dry before potting them up. They’ll form a dry seal that prevents infections and pests. 

Finally, place the free plants in pots with soil, ensuring they’re halfway above and below the soil. They’ll grow throughout spring and summer, and you can treat them like any other potted amaryllis.

Move Pots Outdoors

You may also move potted amaryllis outdoors for the remainder of the growing season once the danger of frost passes. Transition the plants slowly, giving them time to acclimate to outdoor light levels. Once acclimated, they appreciate full sun or partial shade and consistent moisture. 

The plant will produce seeds out of pollinated flowers. Outdoor plants may form seeds as pollinating insects visit them in search of food. Let the seeds ripen if you’d like to collect them; otherwise, cut them off so your bulbs have more energy to form bigger flowers next year. 

Amaryllis need to come inside a few weeks before the first frost date. They’ll start dying back and entering dormancy. Their leaves turn yellow and brown before withering away, while the bulbs swell with moisture and nutrients to prepare for the cold months.

Plant Outside

Some gardeners are lucky enough to grow amaryllis outdoors. Growers in USDA hardiness zones 7 through 10 can plant the bulbs outside once they finish flowering. They’ll soak up the summer sunshine, offering gorgeous green leaves in the ornamental garden. Next winter through early spring, they’ll erupt out of the ground with fresh flowers!

Zones 7 and 8 may experience hard frosts that threaten these perennials during dormancy. Cover them with a layer of mulch two to three inches thick to insulate and warm them despite recurring frosts.

Avoid planting amaryllis outdoors if you live above zone 10 or below zone 7. The climates are either too hot or too cold for this tender species—it’s best to grow potted plants indoors in these regions. 

How to Store Amaryllis Bulbs

As autumn approaches, leaves fall, animals enter hibernation, and your bulbs begin entering dormancy. They’ll need some care to survive the winter season. Leave outdoor plants be, or follow these steps to store the plants indoors in cold zones. 

Clean Them

You may leave the bulbs in their containers for the winter season, although it encourages mold and fungal growth that may threaten their survival. This method works well when storing them in an unheated garage, basement, or cold frame.

The best practice is to remove them from their pots, clean them of soil, and prepare them for the dormant season. This technique is labor intensive, though it works well if you plan on storing amaryllis in your fridge for the dormancy period. 

Wait to remove the bulbs from their pots until after their foliage withers. Although they don’t have blooms post-flowering, they use their remaining green leaves and stems to gather energy from the sun. Then, as they prepare for dormancy, they suck the energy from their leaves into their root system. Let the foliage turn completely brown, and you’ll ensure they take in the maximum possible energy.

Once the foliage withers, cut it two to three inches above each bulb’s top. Brush any lingering dirt or dust off the bulbs, roots, and stems. This careful cleaning prevents pests and diseases, keeping your plants strong, resilient, and healthy.

Let Them Dry

Some amaryllis may have moist dirt clinging to their roots. After brushing it off, some moisture remains on the bulbs and roots. Let them dry fully before winter storage, as lingering moisture can lead to rot and other infections during the dormant period. 

Dry them in a bright room indoors or on a protected patio or porch outside. Rotate them every few hours to ensure each side dries evenly. Once the stems shrivel, the roots dry, and any lingering moisture dissipates, your amaryllis are ready for winter storage. 

Winter Dormancy

Winter dormancy is the most important step when it comes to growing these perennials. Amaryllis require eight to ten weeks of cold temperatures without warm interruptions. Unheated rooms, garages, and sheds work well, as they’re cool, dark, and dry. To ensure they store properly for this entire period, situate the amaryllis bulbs in a box with straw, and place them away from sunlight. 

You may also store amaryllis in the refrigerator. Put them in a container with a paper towel to absorb moisture, and situate them away from any ethylene-releasing fruits like apples. After eight to ten weeks, they’ll be ready to come out and grow in pots with soil. 

After the ten weeks pass, your plants require five more weeks of growth before flowering. Provide them with bright light most of the day indoors, with some direct sunlight in the morning. These sun-loving plants will produce small blooms in low-light rooms. 

Time it just right, and your perennials will flower during Christmas or New Year’s! You’ll want to start storing them for dormancy starting in late August or early September, so they bloom in time. 

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