9 Tips to Avoid Amaryllis Bulb Rot This Season

Amaryllis flowers pop up everywhere from fall through spring. They’re the perfect bulb to force indoors, as they prefer warm temperatures and bright light to flower. You’ll find them pre-bloom, in flower, and as bulbs throughout the dormant seasons. 

Although amaryllis grows well indoors, it originates from Central and South America in tropical climates. The bulbs prefer the cushy soil and regular airflow in their native range. Simulating these conditions prevents growing issues, as your plants thrive like they would in their natural habitat. 

Amaryllis is a common name for plants in the Hippeastrum genus, although Amaryllis is a separate genus of similar bulbing plants. Use these tips for Hippeastrum bulbs, as the Amaryllis ones are mostly outdoor plants that dislike indoor growing conditions. 

Keep reading, and you’ll discover the best ways to prevent amaryllis bulb rot. You’ll also find optimal methods for removing rot wounds to heal your tender bulbs. 

Watering Can

The watering can includes an extra-large filling hole that effortlessly accommodates under-water spigots, streamlining the refilling process without spills.

Buy at Epic Gardening

Use Free-Draining Potting Soil

Amaryllis flowers sprout from bulbs that persist in soil layers with lots of organic matter, but the bulbs can easily rot if the soil is waterlogged. They stay dormant when moisture is absent and readily grow when water is abundant. Indoors, they’ll have less access to falling leaves and seasonal temperatures. If you control their conditions, you can give them what they need to perform their best.

Start by using free-draining potting soil with lots of organic matter. Plant bulbs in your preferred soil mix, or find one specially made for bulbs or houseplants. Amaryllis bulbs prefer being rootbound, meaning you’ll want to give them a container two inches wider than the plant. This will encourage a tight squeeze where the roots stay cozy and healthy. 

You may also find bulbs growing in potting soil already. Let these bulbs flower and go dormant before transplanting them, as dormancy is the best time to repot or plant them. 

Handle Bulbs With Care

Bruising is one easy way for the fungi and bacteria that cause rot to enter the amaryllis bulb as it’s growing. It’s easy to bruise, especially when using metal tools for digging and planting. Take care when handling amaryllis plants to ensure they keep their protective outer layer intact. 

If you do damage a bulb or two, do not fret! They often repair themselves during the growing season, creating extra layers that form new protective coatings. Plant the injured bulbs like you normally would, except give them a container away from other healthy specimens. This ensures diseases that may form don’t spread throughout your garden!

When sourcing amaryllis, ensure you’re purchasing disease-free bulbs from reputable sources. This is a good first step towards ensuring your plants don’t bring pathogens inside your home.

Plant at the Right Depth

Amaryllis, unlike other bulbing species, prefers to sit right at ground level. You won’t bury it like daffodils or tulips; instead, you’ll place it so that half of the bulb sits belowground and the top pokes out the soil. The goal is to have the neck uncovered since it’s where the stems, flowers, and leaves sprout out.

If you purchase a bulb that sits well below the soil surface, you can raise it a bit to ensure it won’t rot. Gently lift the plant, taking care not to break fragile roots or shoots that are actively growing. Add some more potting soil around the base if you raise the plant too high, and water it in well.

Planting depth is important for preventing rot in outdoor specimens too, as they also prefer to sit above ground level. Ensure their tops poke out of the ground and cover them loosely with leaves during fall to protect them from ice or snow. Hippeastrum plants are frost tender, thriving outdoors in USDA hardiness zones 7 through 10.

Provide Moisture and Fertilizer

Because these houseplants are tropical species, they appreciate consistent moisture during the growing season. Keeping their culture moist, not soggy, ensures they grow healthy roots that don’t attract rot. Soggy soil is the main factor in rotting bulbs since it often causes them to grow mushy and moldy.

When watering, use the finger test to check the soil moisture levels. If wet below the surface, hold off on watering for a few days. If dry, add ample water so the soil resembles a wrung-out sponge. 

However, amaryllis bulbs need considerably less water during dormancy to prevent rot. Simulate its natural conditions by holding off on watering as the leaves turn yellow and fall off. Water less, so that the soil is dry a few inches down rather than just on the surface. You can start watering more as the bulb awakens from dormancy the next season.

Potted amaryllis plants need fertilizer more than outdoor specimens. Give them a liquid fertilizer every two or three weeks when you water them during the growing season. Avoid fertilizing before and during dormancy, and wait to fertilize again until after the plant awakens in winter or spring. 

Give Ample Light

Light is another important consideration for plant health. These herbaceous perennial bulbs prefer bright light and thrive in full sun or partial shade outdoors. Indoors, they initially require bright indirect light or partial shade, as their leaves are more tender than those of tough outdoor specimens. You can gradually expose them to more light as you acclimate them.

A bright windowsill is perfect for amaryllis. Grant your plant warm temperatures, but avoid hot heaters that push dry air. The air can zap the flowers and shorten their shelf life. 

The plant may grow lopsided over time as it leans toward the window. Simply rotate it every week or two to keep it growing straight up instead of sideways. Grow lights are another excellent tool to provide sunlight in dark rooms, letting you enjoy amaryllis blooms no matter where you live. 

Avoid Frosty Windows

Although these perennial bulbs require bright windows, they do not like frosty sites. Placing them next to a cold windowpane can cause rot, premature flower wilt, or dormancy. They’re not like snowdrops or crocus, and they need some extra protection while they grow.

An easy solution is to place them near a window, but far enough away so that cold air doesn’t harm them. That way they enjoy the sunlight without facing the undesirable cold of winter. If your bulbs start showing signs of cold damage, move them further away from the window. 

Heaters are possible solutions for especially cold sites, although they cause dry air. Try pairing a household humidifier with a heater to add moisture and heat simultaneously. This will ensure your plant has the humidity and warm temperatures it needs no matter your home’s location. It’ll need less heat as it loses leaves and enters dormancy. 

Force Blooms in Water

When all else fails, try growing amaryllis in water! Like pothos or spider plants, amaryllis plants can survive in water for a season while they bloom indoors. This method is best for gardeners who purchased bare bulbs, or those digging up bulbs from their garden for forcing flowers indoors.

Use a clear glass vessel so you can monitor the plant and the water level. Place pebbles in the bottom so the roots have space to grow and stabilize the bulb. Place the bulb in the vessel, then add water so that it rests a few inches below the neck. 

Your amaryllis will drink water as it grows a long stem with flower buds. Add more pebbles to stabilize the tall stems. Another option is to use a glass jar with a tight lid and wide body. The bulb stays on the lid while the roots grow into water down below. Continuously add water as needed to keep the roots submerged.

After a season of growing in water, the bulb will need to grow in soil outdoors or inside a container. Let the plant grow in soil for a few years with regular nutrients before digging it up and forcing it to bloom indoors in water. 

Watch for Pests

One main cause of bulb rot on otherwise healthy amaryllis plants are pests. These nasty critters target indoor plants, leaving them susceptible to fungi and bacteria that cause rotting symptoms. First, rid your amaryllis of insect pests before targeting the rot issues. 

Strong blasts of water remove most pests, especially dry-loving ones like spider mites and thrips. Spray your plants outdoors once or twice daily until they disappear. If that fails, try a more powerful organic solution like neem oil or horticultural soap. These products are mild enough to remove pests without damaging the surrounding ecosystem. 

Spray at dusk or dawn to avoid harming sensitive pollinators, and use these solutions outdoors away from flowering plants. You don’t want these products wafting around your home, and you want to avoid spreading the pests from one plant to another. 

Repair Rotting Bulbs

Sometimes rotting pathogens target amaryllis bulbs no matter the care you provide. They’ll turn healthy tissue into a soft, gray, and mushy mess. Removing the mushy parts allows you to see what healthy tissue remains. Use water to spray off the dead parts, then inspect the bulb.

The basal plate is where roots and shoots grow out. It’s at the bottom of the bulb, and it’s important if you’d like to nurse your plant back to health. If the rot consumes all portions of the basal plate, it’s best to dispose of the bulb in the garbage and try again with a new specimen.

If, however, the rot only partially infects the bottom, the plant may heal itself and sprout flowers this season. Avoid growing it in a water culture. Let the wound dry and callus, then place it in well-draining potting soil. Keep the dirt moist without overwatering, and your specimen will heal in no time!