How to Prepare Raised Beds for Winter

Fall is here and winter is on the way. What should you do with your raised beds to get them ready for the cold? Whether you’re a four-season gardener or getting ready to go dormant for the winter, year-round gardener Liessa Bowen offers 11 practical tips to help you prepare your raised garden beds for the upcoming cold.

An outdoor scene with multiple rectangular elevated structures covered by thin plastic sheets. Snow blankets the surfaces and the ground around the structures. In the background, a few bare trees and some buildings can be seen.

Contents

Fall is here, winter is coming soon, and I’m not yet ready to give up my crops to the first frost. My basil plants are still going strong, my tomato plants are winding down, and I’ve already planted a small bed of fall garlic and radishes. I even remembered to sow some cover crops in beds that will be unused for a while. 

I’ve learned that while my garden slows down in the winter, it never entirely stops. I live in a relatively mild climate with four distinct seasons. Every fall, I diligently prepare my raised beds for winter. Some I keep in production mode while allowing others to rest so they’re ready for my annual early spring frenzy. 

There are several tasks you can complete in the fall, not only to help prepare your beds for winter, but also to give them a head start on spring. Some of these tasks—like pulling weeds—keep you busy all year round, while other tasks—like preparing to grow winter vegetables—are very season-specific. Let’s take a look at some steps you can take now to proactively get your raised beds ready for winter. 

Hairy Vetch Cover Crop Seeds

Hairy Vetch Cover Crop Seeds

Hairy vetch is a hard-working, fast-growing cover crop, adding large amounts of nitrogen into the soil, benefiting the next crop. It grows quickly and densely, smothering and helping to prevent pesky weeds.

Buy at Epic Gardening

Remove Spent Annuals

A close-up of a gloved hand using red shears to cut off a pink and white flower that has browned at the edges. Green and slightly waxy foliage surrounds the flower.
Removing spent annuals from your raised beds is a great way to tidy up at the end of the growing season.

Annuals grow for one year and then die. After the first frost, there’s no reason to keep your annuals in the ground any longer. Even before the first frost, when your annual plants turn brown and die off, or are simply no longer attractive or productive, go ahead and take them out. 

There’s nothing complicated about the process of removing spent annuals. Grab your favorite gardening gloves and snips, and prune them out. If you have any reason to suspect that your plants were diseased or infected with insects, dispose of them in a location where they can’t reinfect future plantings. If the crops were healthy and disease-free, you can safely add them to your compost pile.  

Removing spent annuals from your raised beds is a great way to tidy up at the end of the growing season. Removing dead plant materials will also help you further prepare your beds for winter. It’s also a good way to get rid of dead plant materials that can harbor overwintering pests. Remove any dead or decaying fruits and vegetables as well, such as tomatoes, peppers, or squash. If you leave these in your garden over the winter, all their seeds will sprout in the spring, and you’ll have a lot of extra weeding to do!

Prune Perennials

A gloved hand with green-and-white shears cuts a small branch of a bush with dark green, elongated, slightly glossy leaves. The branches and leaves are densely packed, with some new growth visible at the tips.
It’s best to wait until after the first frost to cut back your perennials.

If your raised bed garden has perennial flowers or herbs, fall is an excellent time for pruning them back. Many flowers can be cut back to the ground or to a short stem. You don’t need to cut down everything, however. Ornamental grasses, echinacea, hyssop, milkweeds, and bee balm all offer ornamental value, foraging opportunities for winter birds, and protection for overwintering beneficial insects. 

Perennials that die back completely are clearly not adding any ornamental value to your garden. Their dead tops can be removed from the raised beds and composted or disposed of. It’s best to wait until after the first frost to cut back your perennials because these plants continue to gather energy from the sun as long as their leaves are green.

If you are growing native plants, some of these perennials will host insects over the cold seasons. Leave the stalks of these if you’d like to give solitary bees, wasps, and beetles a place to hang out.

Protect Perennials

A wooden structure covered by arched plastic hoops, partially shielding leafy plants inside. Some greenery pokes out from beneath the cover. The soil inside looks dark and moist. Wooden fencing lines the background.
Cover your cool-season crops with a mini greenhouse, cold frame, or floating row cover to extend your season.

Cutting back perennials is one task that removes the above-ground vegetation. Protecting your seasonal herbaceous perennials for the winter focuses on the below-ground roots, bulbs, and rhizomes. Protecting your woody perennials focuses on both above and below-ground parts of the plants. 

Mulch around your perennials to help protect their roots from dramatic temperature fluctuations and severe cold. Mulching around your plants also helps retain soil moisture and deters weeds from sprouting up from bare soil. You can apply mulch directly over dormant perennial roots but if your perennials are still standing, leave a little space around the main stems so you don’t suffocate your plants. 

There isn’t much you can do about the weather, but you can still extend your growing season. Want to try keeping your cool-season veggies producing a little longer or, in mild climates, throughout the entire winter? 

Cover your cool-season crops with a mini greenhouse, cold frame, or floating row cover to extend your season and keep your perennials going strong. These versatile and portable seasonal protection systems keep your plants safe during light freezes but probably won’t protect your plants enough for them to survive arctic blasts. They’ll help extend your growing season in the coldest winters, and even allow you to grow and harvest some crops until spring in mild climates. 

Grow Cool-Season Crops

A large, lush field filled with rows of large, broad-leaved plants, likely collard greens. The dark green leaves look healthy and expansive, creating a neat and dense arrangement. In the distance, crates or baskets are scattered, presumably for harvesting.
You can grow collards, spinach, kale, lettuce, broccoli, and more, long after your heat-loving summer crops have died.

Cool weather doesn’t mean the end of the garden season. To prepare for your winter garden, grow cool-season crops. You can grow collards, spinach, kale, lettuce, broccoli, and more, long after your heat-loving summer crops have died. Your herb garden may have hardy herbs like rosemary, sage, thyme, oregano, and chives that you can keep harvesting throughout the winter. 

Remove Tender Bulbs and Corms

A person in red gloves pulls up a tuberous plant with thick roots from the soil. Around them, other small plants are visible. The foliage pulled up has dark green, slightly serrated leaves, with stems and roots emerging from the dirt.
It’s time to dig these plants and prepare them for winter storage.

Do you have dahlias, gladiolas, elephant ears, tuberous begonias, or caladiums that you’d like to overwinter? In warm climates, you can leave these bulbs in the ground all year. But if you’re beyond their winter tolerance, you’ll need to dig, protect, and replant these tender bulbs, tubers, and corms each year. 

When the foliage dries up at the end of the year or after the first frost, it’s time to dig these plants and prepare them for winter storage. Don’t worry about leaving them in the ground until the first frost. Usually, the first frost is light, and the ground is still relatively warm. The leafy foliage and stems will die back, but the underground bulbs will be okay. Dig them promptly, however, to protect them from a more severe frost and potential diseases from cold, perpetually moist soil. 

Pull Weeds

A gloved hand pulls weeds out from the ground, grasping the leafy green tops. The weed has broad leaves, slightly wilted, with the soil underneath appearing compacted and damp.
Any weeds that go to seed will spawn dozens, if not hundreds, of baby weeds.

Why pull weeds when you aren’t actively gardening? Because the more weeds you pull now, the fewer you’ll have to pull in the spring. Any weeds that go to seed will spawn dozens, if not hundreds, of baby weeds that you can avoid entirely by pulling them now. Leaving weeds in the garden also provides hiding places for garden pests to overwinter. Also, weeds are using the same soil nutrients that your garden plants want. Why encourage the competition?

When pulling weeds, make sure you remove the entire weed. Work when the soil is moist, rather than dry or compacted, to make it easier to get the entire root. Loosen the soil around the roots if you need to and carefully remove all parts of the weed. Many weeds are incredibly persistent and will sprout up from root and stem segments left in the ground. You can, with caution, compost weeds, or throw them out if you’re concerned about reintroducing them after composting.

Plant Cover Crops

A dense patch of flowering vetch, with vibrant purple flowers dotting the landscape. The thin, delicate green stems have small, lance-shaped leaves, providing a soft, wispy appearance as they sway among the purple blossoms.
These crops improve soil and garden health by breaking up dense soil to improve aeration and water retention.

Planting cover crops in the fall boosts your garden soil quality for the following spring. Use this downtime between active gardening seasons to give your raised beds new life, and improved soil. Cover crops are often referred to as living mulch or green manure

These crops are fast-growing plants, usually annuals, that you use in rotation with your garden crops to help improve soil conditions. They improve soil and garden health by breaking up dense soil to improve aeration and water retention, attracting pollinators, suppressing weeds, improving nutrient availability, and reducing soil erosion. 

Winter rye, crimson clover, hairy vetch, alfalfa, barley, peas, and fava beans all make excellent fall and winter cover crops for your raised bed garden. Sow one of these cover crops across your entire raised bed and let it grow until you’re ready to use the bed again the following spring. When you’re ready for spring planting, cut down your cover crops, turn the roots into the soil, and add the tops to your compost pile and you’ll have multiple opportunities for soil enrichment!

Remove Decorations

A wheelbarrow filled with plant clippings, primarily consisting of small branches and leaves. A rake leans against the wheelbarrow, and the ground around it is covered in sparse grass with some patches of dry, brown foliage.
This is the perfect opportunity to clean off your garden decor, scrub off mildew, and remove dead plant matter.

When you clean up your yard at the end of the season, you’ll remove dead crops, weeds, and decorations, including stakes, tags, trellises, and garden gnomes. This is the perfect opportunity to clean off your decor, scrub off mildew, and remove dead plant matter that may be clinging to these items. Use your hose and a scrub brush to wash away insect eggs, slug and snail eggs, and any grime that has accumulated during the summer.  

You won’t need these items again until the next year so you can store them in a protected location to keep them clean. If you like the structure they provide, however, there’s no harm in putting them back in your garden to provide some winter interest. While you’re out there, take the opportunity to remove any plastic or metal plant tags that may be left lying in the soil. 

Fix and Maintain

A newly constructed wooden rectangular structure filled with dark soil. There is a black plastic liner partially covering the soil. The surrounding ground is a mix of short, green grass and some bare patches.
This is also the ideal opportunity to add any new beds that you’ve been contemplating!

Is there a loose board in your raised bed? Do some of the nuts and bolts need tightening? Are there any other maintenance tasks you’ve been putting off? Fall is the perfect time to check these tasks off your “to-do” list. When you complete your maintenance tasks during your season’s least productive time, your beds will be ready to go in top condition as soon as the weather warms again in spring.

This is also the ideal opportunity to add any new raised beds before winter! The weather is cool, the bugs are bearable, and the season is having a quiet lull in activity levels. What better time to build a new raised bed and fill it with soil? Then, you’ll have the winter to make plans and shop for seeds in preparation for spring planting.

Boost the Soil

A gloved hand holds up a chunk of rich, dark compost, preparing to spread it onto a prepared patch of earth. The soil appears loose, with hints of decomposing organic matter. The background is slightly blurred but shows hints of foliage.
Add your own homemade compost or worm castings for a healthy boost.

Your beds are full of soil but the soil level has probably dropped since you first filled it. Take this opportunity to refill raised bed with fresh soil and organic matter that can break down over winter. Add your own homemade compost or worm castings for a healthy boost. Mushroom compost and aged manure also make excellent raised bed soil amendments. 

If you enjoy the entire process of gardening, including building your own ideal soil blend, read about raised bed soils and create the perfect mix for your garden. If you prefer a simpler method, most garden centers sell raised bed soil mixes, which are a blend of products that work well together in raised beds, providing nutrients, water retention, and excellent drainage.

After you remove dead plants, fix anything that needs fixing, boost your soil, and raise the soil levels, you can add a layer of winter mulch on top. Why go through all this trouble in the fall, right before your garden goes dormant for the winter? Because all the work you’re putting into your garden right now will save you time and energy in the spring when there are many more garden-related tasks to tackle.

So go ahead and do the prep work now and take your own winter break while you dream of spring planting and the first flowers and vegetables of the new season. 

Add Winter Mulch

A gloved hand spreads a thick layer of tan-colored wood mulch around a small evergreen plant. The plant has short, needle-like leaves, and the surrounding area is already covered with mulch to retain moisture.
It regulates soil temperature to minimize the freeze-thaw cycle that above-ground gardens are particularly susceptible to.

Mulch your raised bed garden before the winter rolls around. Mulch acts as a protective layer and insulation layer. It protects the soil from wind and water erosion. It helps regulate the soil temperature to minimize the freeze-thaw cycle that above-ground gardens are particularly susceptible to. While the mulch is in place, it blocks weeds from growing so you’ll have less work to do. 

Mulch also helps nourish the soil. Use an organic mulch that will break down relatively quickly. If you have a lawn mower and fall leaves in your yard, run the mower over the leaves to break them up and spread this shredded leaf mulch on your garden beds. The leaves will act as a protective layer of mulch and they’ll break down and add their nutrients to your soil. Turn them under in the spring when you’re ready for spring planting.

Add a three or four-inch layer of biodegradable mulch. If you don’t have leaf mulch handy, hay or straw works well, as do pine needles. When you grow cover crops through the winter, these will act as a living mulch so you won’t need to cover them with any extra layers. Similarly, if you are growing cold-loving winter crops in your raised beds, you can add some mulch around them but don’t bury your living plants with mulch. They still need access to air and sunlight to grow well. 

Frequently Asked Questions

Should I take the soil out of my raised bed garden during the winter?

No. There’s no need to take the soil out of your garden bed unless you need to move your raised bed to a new location.

I’m gardening in containers. Can I use these same tips for my container garden?

Yes! You can use all these tips for your raised bed gardens and containers. Most of these tips also apply to your regular herb garden, vegetable garden, annual flower beds, and perennial beds. All gardens benefit from weeding, regular maintenance and upkeep, soil upgrades, and winter mulching.

Can I use my raised bed garden to benefit pollinators over the winter? 

On any warm day, even in the middle of winter, you may see a few pollinators flying around. Unless you have flowers blooming during the winter, the pollinators probably won’t spend much time around your raised beds. If you have shrubbery, trees, or other vegetation that stands throughout the winter, however, pollinators will use this as short-term resting places and long-term shelter.

If you have a raised bed garden dedicated to pollinator-friendly plants, try to grow a wide variety in your small space. Include species that bloom in late fall, early spring, and even in the winter, if you can. Then, anytime the pollinators are warm enough to fly, they’ll have access to a tasty feast!

Share This Post
A wooden planter box filled with various leafy green plants, their broad leaves extending outwards. The wood has a rich, dark brown hue, weathered by outdoor conditions, and contrasts against the lush green vegetation. In the background, more plants and bright sunlight highlight the freshness of the setting.

Raised Bed Gardening

The Fastest Way to Set Up New Raised Garden Beds

Raised beds don’t need to be complicated or expensive. If you are lacking tools or construction skills, this simple 3-Minute Raised Bed could revolutionize your garden with minimal effort. Garden expert Logan Hailey explains the fastest steps to set up this all-in-one kit without any tools or previous experience!

Low wooden raised beds using the No Dig gardening method, filled with layers of cardboard, compost, and fresh soil.

Raised Bed Gardening

How to Create No-Dig Raised Beds

If you want to enjoy the benefits of no-till gardening or build raised beds without the help of a rototiller, you’re in luck. Farmer Briana Yablonski will explain how to create healthy garden beds without disturbing the soil

An elevated planter in a garden with a variety of vegetables, with flowering plants outside of the box.

Raised Bed Gardening

11 Tips to Increase Production in Your Raised Bed Garden

Gardening in raised beds is an increasing trend for growers who want more control over soil health and bend over less when harvesting and pruning. But how do we increase our yields while still enjoying our time in the garden? Join organic farmer Jenna Rich for 11 tips to maximize production in your raised bed garden.

Close-up of a metal raised bed with growing young seedlings of kale and Snapdragon flowering plants with a drip irrigation system installed.

Raised Bed Gardening

How to Set Up Irrigation for Raised Garden Beds

If you’re tired of dragging a garden hose or lugging a watering can every time you want to water your raised beds, consider adding an automated irrigation system. Farmer Briana Yablonski will share how to set up a drip irrigation system so you can easily water your raised beds.