How to Plant, Grow and Care For Cymbidium Orchids

Cymbidium orchids, commonly called Boat Orchids, are a wonderful genus of plants in the orchid family. They originate in the foothills of the Himalayas, as well as some parts of Australia.

These orchids are prized by florists for their stunning sprays of long-lasting flowers. They are easy to grow as orchids go, and their care is similar to that of cattleya orchids. These are great beginner orchids, and the blooming payoff is generous.

These pretty plants have some quirks in care that are unusual for orchids, which are typically heat-loving plants that prefer their sunlight filtered. Cymbidiums have their own specific needs, which happen to make them excellent indoor plants.

Classification

Cymbidium orchids have a slightly more complex set of classifications than most orchid types. They are a wide-ranging genus that includes epiphytic, lithophytic, and semi-terrestrial plants, and their needs vary accordingly.

Perennial

Cymbidium orchids, like all orchids, are perennial plants. They live for many years and bloom yearly, sometimes biannually. Orchids can live for many years, particularly when they are divided regularly.

Sympodial

Orchids fall into two growth categories, sympodial and monopodial. All orchids grow along a central rhizome or main root. Monopodial orchids have a vertical rhizome that grows continuously upward in a climbing fashion. They produce flower spikes from between leaf sets and tend to grow a lot of aerial roots.

Sympodial orchids have a rhizome that grows horizontally, sending up individual pseudobulbs, which each produce leaves and a flower spike.

Sympodial orchids can grow quite large over time, and though each pseudobulb only flowers one time, a single plant can produce numerous pseudobulbs in the course of a year. Cymbidium orchids fall into the sympodial category.

Evergreen

There are a few species of orchids that are deciduous, meaning that they lose their leaves yearly. All other types of orchids are evergreen, retaining their leaves, sometimes for years, and only shed their oldest leaves. They generally do this right before flowering as a way to redirect energy to the developing buds.

Semi-Terrestrial

Most Cymbidium orchids are semi-terrestrial. These orchids grow in the ground. This habit makes their root systems less sensitive to water and makes for a hardier plant overall. Most cymbidiums grow in rocky, mossy areas with great drainage.

Flower Formation

Cymbidium flowers are some of the most desirable in the orchid family. They are beautiful and long-lasting. They come in a wide variety of colors including white, orange, pink, red, brown, yellow, and even black. The flowers appear on flower spikes in groups of 6-12 blooms.

While these flowers are rarely fragrant, they are a sight to behold. Particularly, when a mature plant produces numerous inflorescences.

The flowers consist of three sepals and two petals, which are similar in shape and color. Occasionally the petals are a slightly darker shade, but it is usually not noticeable without close inspection.

The labellum of Cymbidium orchids is compact. It typically stays within the borders of the lower sepals rather than protruding. It is nicely proportionate and nearly always patterned with a deeper color than the rest of the flower.

Propagation

There are three ways to propagate orchids, and all three apply to cymbidiums. While propagation by seed is not commonly carried out by home gardeners, I will include some information anyway.

Seed propagation is possible. It just requires a great deal of patience. Regardless of which method you use, the most important factor is using clean tools. Orchids are very susceptible to fungus and bacteria, so sterile tools are important.

Keikis

The easiest way to propagate orchids is the one that they do on their own. Orchids naturally reproduce when kept in ideal conditions. A healthy orchid will occasionally send out what is known as a Keiki, or baby plant.

These small replicas of the parent plant will have identical flowers and foliage. It is important to remove these little plants and pot them on their own, as they will draw nutrients from the parent plant while they are attached, and this can inhibit the plant’s growth.

This produces a plant that is identical to the parent plant, which has an advantage over growing from seed. The most inconvenient factor is that the orchid will decide when to reproduce, and there is little than can be done to provoke it.

Division

Propagation by division is the most common and efficient way to grow new orchid plants. This method also creates plants that are identical to the original plant, as they are created by removing portions of the parent plant and encouraging root growth on their own.

This is more predictable than waiting around for a keiki to appear, so it is the most common way that orchids are propagated at home.

To divide an orchid, you must cut the rhizome, which in sympodial orchids runs laterally, beneath the potting medium.

The rhizome should be sliced through in between two pseudobulbs. A good rule for dividing a sympodial orchid is to leave no fewer than four pseudobulbs attached in each division.

Once the divisions have been made, each portion should be potted on its own and cared for attentively. Using a bit of peat moss in your potting mix will keep some moisture in the mix and help a division to grow roots faster.

From Seed

Orchid seeds are incredibly tiny. Consider the tiny specks of dark brown in natural vanilla ice cream. Each of those tiny specks is an orchid seed. Because of how small orchid seeds are, they contain no endosperm, and therefore, they need an outside energy source to help them to germinate.

In nature, orchid seeds attach themselves to mycorrhizal fungi, which are able to break down the nutrients needed for germination into a form that can be utilized by these tiny orchid seeds. There are two ways of germinating orchid seeds in captivity.

Symbiotic Germination

This type of germination most closely replicates the natural process of germination of orchids. However, it requires a sterile laboratory environment, so it is not typically carried out by hobby gardeners.

Access to such a facility is not common, so I won’t go into great detail but will say that it is a delicate and lengthy process.

Asymbiotic Germination

For the home gardener with lots of patience and the desire to propagate a large number of orchids, there is a process called Flasking, which is otherwise known as asymbiotic germination. Think of this as the invitro fertilization of orchids.

The process involves placing orchid seeds into a glass bottle or flask with a nutrient-rich substance that can be used as energy for the seeds to germinate. The seeds, and then seedlings, need to be left in the flask for a lengthy period of time, up to 2 years. Then they are removed and transferred to their own pots.

The most difficult part of this process is waiting for your orchids to mature. An orchid planted from seed will take as many as 5-7 years before it is mature and produces flowers.

That is a long time to wait. It also does not ensure that you will have duplicates of the original plant. Orchid seeds, and especially hybrids, are unpredictable in that way, so there is no guarantee of what the blooms will look like in most cases.

Growing Cymbidium Orchids

Cymbidium orchids are widely regarded as being among the easier orchids to cultivate, partially because of their semi-terrestrial nature. These orchids have several characteristics that make them ideal houseplants, particularly for novice orchid growers.

Soil

Cymbidium orchids differ from most orchids in this regard. While most orchids need a bark mixture with large particles that assist in drainage and air circulation, Cymbidiums are accustomed to slightly denser soil and can tolerate their roots being in a moist environment for longer than an epiphytic orchid.

These orchids like acidic soil with excellent drainage, but they prefer smaller particles than typical orchid bark contains.

Commercial potting mixes made specifically for Cymbidium orchids contain some bark but in smaller pieces. Coconut coir, peat moss, perlite, and clay particles are also common ingredients.

Containers

Because they use a potting medium with smaller particles, Cymbidium orchids also have potting needs that are different from epiphytic orchids. While they need proper drainage, the potting mix will fall through the holes in most orchid pots and make a big mess of your house.

Terracotta pots are ideal for Cymbidium orchids. They wick water away from the roots and maintain a good balance of moisture. Just make sure that your pot is not too shallow and has ample drainage.

Cymbidium roots tend to get quite bulky and heavy, and they don’t do well in shallow containers. Don’t go overboard though. They like close quarters.

Planting Space

Unless you are gardening in zones 10-12, the spacing of these orchids is not important. Each plant should have its own container. In the ground, they need to be in soil with excellent drainage, and they don’t mind being crowded.

Light

This is another area where Cymbidiums stand out against most orchids. Cymbidium orchids like a lot of light. They won’t thrive in the hot afternoon sun. Several hours of direct sun early in the day is preferable. Some shade in hotter, summer months is recommended.

Cymbidiums will not produce flowers if they are kept in the shade. You can tell if a Cymbidium is getting the right amount of light from the color of its leaves.

A happy cymbidium will have bright, lime-green leaves, and an orchid getting too much sun will have leaves that appear bleached. Cymbidium orchids that are not getting enough light will have darker green leaves, and they will not produce flowers.

Water

Cymbidium orchids like to stay moist but not wet. The general rule in watering orchids is once per week, with ample time for the roots to dry in between.

Cymbidium orchids follow the same rule. However, because of their difference in the potting medium, they hold more moisture than standard orchid bark mix.

So, while there is a difference in the amount of water a Cymbidium orchid prefers, the key to maintaining that moisture is in the potting mix rather than in the frequency of watering.

Climate and Temperature

Cymbidium orchids are cooler-temperature orchids. They are cold tolerant to about 40°F, and most actually will not flower without a perceptible shift in temperature. These orchids prefer to stay below 80°F.

Their affinity for cooler weather is another factor that makes them great houseplants. These orchids will feel right at home in a bright, sunny window.

In addition to cooler temperatures, Cymbidium orchids are happy with a humidity level of around 50%, which is on the low end for orchids. They need good air circulation as well.

If kept in a reasonably humid room, cymbidiums may not need an additional source of humidity. If your home is on the drier side, you can use a humidifier or a pebble tray to raise the level of moisture in the air.

Fertilizer

Orchids like to be fertilized regularly. They are not plants that you can fertilize once a year and then forget about them. Because of the type of potting medium, they need to keep their roots healthy. They do not have the opportunity to derive many nutrients from the soil.

Orchids should be fertilized every 1-2 weeks during their growing season and then every 3-4 during times of dormancy or low growth. Fertilizer is especially important during the blooming season when the plant is moving most of its nutrients upward to support flowers.

Cymbidium orchids go dormant after they lose their flowers in spring. During the time between May and October, fertilizing can be reduced. Specialty orchid fertilizers are made to fit the specific needs of orchids, so naturally, these will go a long way toward producing the greatest number and quality of blooms.

However, a balanced fertilizer will work quite well also. A 10-10-10 fertilizer diluted to ½ strength or a 20-20-20 reduced to ¼ strength is both good options if you prefer an all-purpose fertilizer.

Maintenance & Pruning

The most important thing to remember in terms of orchid maintenance is inspection. Observation is the best way to prevent issues, like pests and diseases, from wreaking havoc on your plants. Aside from inspecting regularly, a properly potted orchid in the right spot will be relatively low maintenance. 

Orchids do not require regular pruning, as it will not increase health, growth, or flowering.  On the contrary, cutting foliage from an orchid may cause a slowdown of growth while the plant recovers. Orchids typically drop their own spent flowers, so there is no need to deadhead. There are two exceptions to this no-pruning rule.

After the flowers drop and the flower spike turns brown, trim it off about one inch above the node closest to the base. The second exception is for damaged foliage.

Sometimes pests or diseases happen, even to the most tenacious inspectors. After dealing with the issue, it is best to remove all damaged tissue. Both of these practices help the plant to redirect energy and nutrients toward new growth.

Popular Varieties

There are several popular varieties you may come across, depending on where you live and what your local gardening center may carry. You can also order many varieties online. Let’s look at some of the most popular you are likely to come across.

‘Aussie Midnight’

	botanical name Cymbidium Aussie Midnight
	sun requirements Part Sun to Full Sun
	hardiness zones 10-12

Aussie Midnight is considered a black orchid, although some cultivars may appear to be very deep purple. This plant produces long, pendulous spikes of these striking blooms.

The petals and sepals are long, curved, and nearly black. The flower spikes themselves are a deep red. The labellum of this orchid is yellow with a splashy pattern of deep red splotches. This plant is a definite conversation starter.

‘Captain Midnight’

	botanical name Cymbidium Black Peter ‘Captain Midnight’
	sun requirements Bright Filtered Light
	hardiness zones 10-12

This stunning Cymbidium is a warm weather variety. It doesn’t need a temperature drop to produce flowers and blooms from late summer into the fall. There is a full-sized and dwarf variety to choose from. The full-sized variety is a very large growing plant, up to 2.5 feet tall.

The blooms are a deep rose burgundy color with dark veining running the length of the petals and sepals. The labellum is yellow toward the center with large splotches of deep burgundy, just slightly darker than the petals. It is a gorgeous cultivar that has a light citrus scent.

‘Everglades Gold’

	botanical name Cymbidium Milton Carpenter ‘Everglades Gold’
	sun requirements Full Sun to Part Sun
	hardiness zones 10-12

This variety is another warm-weather Cymbidium. This means that it also blooms earlier than cool weather varieties. It is lightly fragrant. The variety was named for a past president of the American Orchid Society.

The blooms are a bright, lemony yellow, with a matching lip that is patterned with deep red. This variety has long, thin, grass-like leaves and makes a very elegant plant when in bloom.

‘Ruby Lips’

	botanical name Cymbidium Valerie Absolonova ‘Ruby Lips’
	sun requirements Part Sun to Full Sun
	hardiness zones 10-12

This wonderful variety has delicately colored blooms with narrow petals and sepals that end in points, giving them a starlike appearance. As the name implies, the labellum is scarlet, and quite pronounced against the pinkish yellow of the petals.

‘Valentine’s Love’

	botanical name Cybidum ‘Valentines Love’
	sun requirements Part Sun to Full Sun
	hardiness zones 10-12

This fall-blooming beauty can actually bloom twice a year if it’s kept in a warm spot. The long-lasting blooms of this variety have lime green petals and sepals, which frame a scarlet labellum and yellow anther cap. This exotic cultivar is easy to care for and has all the best attributes of a Cymbidium orchid.

Pests and Diseases

Sadly, orchids are very susceptible to both insects and diseases caused by fungus and bacteria. There are several insects that love to feast on the sweet sap in orchid leaves and flowers.

The best way to prevent pests and diseases from damaging your orchid is to inspect all new plants before introducing them into a space with other plants. When an issue is discovered, isolate the affected plant while treating it.

Aphids

Aphids can do a lot of damage to the new growth of an orchid. These little guys love to suck the sap out of tender orchid buds and new leaves. They drain the plant of valuable nutrients, causing growth to be stunted and newer foliage to shrivel and curl.

You are most likely to find these small green insects hanging around any forming buds or flowers.

They leave sticky excrement behind called honeydew, as well, which plays host to black sooty mold. When treating aphids, insecticidal soap is best. Any mold that has formed should be wiped away gently, by hand.

Scales

Scales are a real problem if they find their way to your houseplants. These small brown insects congregate on the underside of leaves where they drain the plant of moisture and nutrients. Scales also leave behind honeydew, leading to the growth of black sooty mold.

If you notice new growth is looking shriveled and curling, check under the leaves for these guys. For less severe infestations, a cotton swab soaked with alcohol is effective to simply wipe them off with. If the infestation is bad, an insecticide may be the way to go.

Spider Mites

These insects are actually closer to spiders than mites, but rather than other insects, they feed on plant sap. These critters can be detected by their fine webbing, which they leave on the underside of leaves. They leave a crumbly mess and ugly black spots on your leaves.

Spider mites can be treated by spraying a solution of dish soap and water or alcohol on the leaves. You will likely have to treat them more than once over a few weeks to eradicate them entirely.

Root Rot

Root Rot is the number one enemy of indoor orchids. The primary cause of root rot is overwatering. Orchid roots can only take in just so much water. If they sit too long in a wet environment, the roots will begin to break down and become a perfect host for fungus.

It is difficult to detect root rot without examining the roots of an orchid until it moves into the leaves. Leaves will turn yellow closest to the stem rhizome and gradually weaken and fall off. Once root rot has progressed to this point, it can be difficult to reverse.

There are many remedies for curing root rot, but in my experience, the best solution is repotting. Remove all potting media that could contain fungus, then trim away diseased parts of root and foliage. Allow the roots to dry completely before repotting in the new potting mix.

Cymbidium Mosaic Virus

This virus causes necrotic lesions on leaves and can stunt the growth of your cymbidium. It won’t necessarily kill your plant, but it’s not very pretty, and it can spread to other plants nearby.

Watch out for this when you purchase new plants. Sadly, the best way to eradicate it is by disposing of the plant.

Leaf-Spot Disease

Phyllosticta Leaf Spot is caused by the fungus phyllosticta capitalensis. This is less of an issue for Cymbidium orchids than for other genres, but it can still affect these orchids and it is very difficult to cure. It weakens the plant, making it more susceptible to other pests and diseases.

Phylostcita likes most environments, which orchids like as well. Increasing the air circulation in the room is a good way to head this disease off. As always, careful inspection of new plants is the best prevention.

Botrytis

This fungal disease usually finds its way in during the cooler months and prefers cool, damp environments. It is a fast multiplier and can take down an orchid in a matter of days. Removing the damaged tissue will help to control and contain the spread. A fungicide can be used to prevent further damage as well.

Air circulation is key to preventing the spread and proliferation of this disease. Practicing good plant hygiene and keeping the air moving around your orchid will go a long way toward warding off this fungus.