How to Plant, Grow, and Care For ‘Yuletide’ Camellia

Camellias are handsome evergreens with deep green, glossy leaves. Their fine blooms, from full and broad to dainty and detailed, exude charm. Camellia sasanqua ‘Yuletide’ blooms throughout the holiday season with bright red flowers that contrast the dark leaves. 

‘Yuletide’ is versatile in the landscape year-round, and the striking winter blooms delight when little else is in flower. The flowers perform a pollinator service in the quiet season, attracting bees and other beneficial insects with their valuable pollen and nectar. Seeds that follow support songbirds and small mammals.

Camellias are signatures of historic gardens, especially in the American South. ‘Yuletide’ flowers in winter and offers multi-season appeal. These growing tips make it easy to tuck in with an unimposing and simple beauty.

What is ‘Yuletide’ Camellia?

There are nearly 250 Camellia species, with a few that commonly grow in our gardens. C. sasanqua, C. japonica, and their hybrids grow across mild, temperate regions. Versatile in the landscape, sasanquas make beautiful back-of-the-border specimens, mixed evergreen hedges, privacy screens, and taller foundation plantings. They also grow well in pots to brighten up a shady corner and frame a structure by espalier.

Sasanquas bloom earlier than their cousins, C. japonica, with a fall-to-winter flower. ‘Yuletide’ sparkles with bright red single blooms and large golden yellow centers. Thick, waxy petals stand out amongst the dense foliage.

Camellias have a long history, cultivated for over 3000 years in Japan and China. Tea camellias (C. sinensis) even spawned the Boston Tea Party with their popularity and ensuing government taxation.

Origins

C. sasanqua made its way as an ornamental specimen to England and to the United States in the late 1700s. The genus is the namesake for Georg Joseph Kamel, a Moravian Jesuit missionary, pharmacist, and naturalist in the Philippines in the late 1600s. With a penchant for plants, he introduced selections from his travels to Europe (though not camellias, in particular).

The specific epithet sasanqua comes from the Japanese camellia name sazanka, meaning “plum-flowered tea.” Camellias are in the tea (Theaceae) family, and dried leaves and blooms of the species made teas more aromatic.

‘Yuletide’ is a chance seedling of C. x vernalis ‘Hiryu,’ a vigorous, well-branched heirloom sasanqua hybrid. Its blossoms are semi-double in rose red with wavy outer petals. ‘Hiryu’ blooms earlier in the season, from October to December. Nuccio’s Nurseries of Altadena, California are family-run camellia and azalea growers since 1935 who introduced the beloved favorite in 1970.

Synonyms include C. x vernalis ‘Yuletide’ to reflect its hybrid parentage. C. vernalis is a hybrid between C. japonica and C. sasanqua, intermediately sized between the two and with a bloom time that meets in the middle.

Characteristics

Sasanquas bloom in profusion in fall and winter. They bear smaller flowers than the later blooming Camellia japonica, but the sheer numbers create exuberant color amongst the dark green foliage. ‘Yuletide’ yields single blooms with slightly cupped crimson petals, a center of bright yellow stamens, and a light fragrance.

Each flower lasts a few days before dropping in its entirety, but there’s a succession waiting to take its place. The lengthy bloom time lasts four to six weeks. One of the only true reds among fall-flowering camellias, the mid-season bloomer shows from December to January. After flowering, small, shiny, capsule fruits develop. Songbirds and small mammals forage on the cold season food source.

Foliage (also smaller than C. japonica) is lustrous and dark olive. Narrow leaves are thick and leathery, with tiny rounded teeth along the margins. ‘Yuletide’ has a loose, open form with dense branching and a tight, slender habit. The rounded, upright evergreen has the presence of a small tree.

‘Yuletide’ is an easy-care, low-maintenance shrub in the right garden location. It’s touted as deer-resistant, though a hungry deer will stop and browse. C. sasanqua is more resistant to Phytophthora root rot than C. japonica, more sun tolerant, and more easygoing

Native Area

C. sasanqua occurs naturally in lowland forests on coastal islands of southern Japan. Their low-elevation habitat is evergreen forests, though they also grow at higher elevations (3000 feet) with hollies and azaleas.

‘Yuletide’ camellia is of garden origin, selected for its adaptability and high ornamental value. It has attractive form, leaves, and flowers.

Planting

The broadleaf evergreens have a moderate growth rate, reaching their mature 10 feet tall by 6 feet wide over the course of a decade. They take pruning well, though they don’t require it except to maintain airflow between branches. A minimum spacing of five feet between other plants works well, planted more densely for hedging (three to four feet apart).

Take note of the shallow roots of ‘Yuletide’ camellia. Plant the shrubs high and shallowly, but dig a hole twice the size of the nursery pot to loosen surrounding soils. A larger hole initially helps break up competing roots and allows for removing rocks and other impediments that may block roots.

Transplanting

At planting, situate the crown two to three inches higher than the surrounding soil to allow for settling. If they dip below the soil line, they’ll struggle to develop. Keep the soil level consistent from the container to the in-ground spot.

Spring and fall are the best times to plant, with their moderate temperatures and ample moisture. However, the shrubs can go in the ground or a large pot any time of the year with the proper cultural conditions in place. The extreme heat of summer in southern regions is stressful for new additions; make sure to provide regular moisture.

How to Grow

‘Yuletide’ camellia is an easy-care specimen with few maintenance needs. With soil, light, and moisture considerations met, it performs beautifully with little gardener intervention.

Light

Camellias perform best in dappled light under tree canopy, but sasanqua tolerates more sun. Sometimes, you’ll find older specimens thriving in a full-sun location, but the foliage benefits from protection from direct afternoon rays to prevent leaf scorch. 

The species is more sun tolerant than C. japonica, especially if soils remain consistently moist. They make a woodland edge understory planting or thrive in a partially shaded border. 

Water

‘Yuletide’ camellia thrives in evenly moist soils. During their first growing season, they need regular, deep watering sessions to establish sturdy root systems. Reduce frequency in successional seasons as they become more drought tolerant. Water at about one inch per week or when the top three inches of soil are dry.

Irrigate during dry spells for the best bud set. Underwatering can cause bud drop (though camellias naturally drop some buds as they set more than they can support).

While they’ll withstand periods of inundation from rainfall or quick flooding, they won’t thrive in constantly wet conditions.

Soil

In addition to even moisture, the evergreens need well-draining soils. They prefer slightly acidic soils rich in organic matter but aren’t picky if soil conditions are lesser. The ideal soil pH is 6.0 to 6.5, and they tolerate less.

These rugged beauties grow in variable soil types, including clay, sand, and loamy silt. 

Alkaline soils stress the acid-loving shrubs. If yellowing leaves show green venation, it may be a sign of chlorosis. Add iron chelate to the soil and amend with completely broken down plant material to lower alkalinity. A soil test helps determine if other amendments, like aluminum sulfate, are beneficial.

‘Yuletide’ camellia also does well in native soils. For poor soils, leaf mold or compost worked into the soil at planting improves organic richness and increases aeration. Make sure to incorporate it with the native soil backfill.

Temperature and Humidity

‘Yuletide’ camellia appreciates shelter from drying winds, especially in winter. They’re hardy to around 5°F (-15°C) and usually survive winters above 0°F (-18°C).

In climates with cold winters, grow the winter bloomer in a pot to overwinter indoors. Enjoy their show in a bright, cool space or greenhouse. Reduce their watering indoors and move them out as temperatures warm.

In the lowest areas of zone 7, plant ‘Yuletide’ in a protected area. On the coldest nights—between 0 and 10°F (-18 to -12°C)—or with extreme winter weather, frost cloth offers extra protection. A two to three-inch mulch layer provides insulation in winter and cooling moisture in summer.

Fertilizing

Fertilize in the spring with a formula for acid-loving plants like azaleas and hollies, or a 10-10-10 with minors and micronutrients. Minors like magnesium, calcium, and sulfur and micros like manganese and iron are important to camellia nutrition. Check the formula to look for minor elements. 

Once plants are mature, opt for a lower grade 4-8-8 (or similar) to maintain health and vigor. The goal here is not to promote new growth but to sustain adequate nutrition for the heavy flowerers.

The American Camellia Society recommends three rounds of fertilizer early in the growing season: March, May, and July. At least one yearly application will help build robust roots and foliar growth with improved flowering and disease resistance.

Excessive fertilizer shows through burned leaf edges and premature dropping. Yellowing leaves can signal nutrient deficiencies or chlorosis from high-pH soils, and fertilizer boosts nutrition in these cases.

Maintenance

If you need to prune your ‘Yuletide’ camellia for size or shape, do so after flowering in late winter. Valentine’s Day is a good marker, using a February to March window for selective pruning and any major cutback. Buds set on old wood, and pruning before they set reduces loss. 

‘Yuletide’ does best with a loose, airy form to allow airflow. If branching gets too dense, open it up to give some gaps. They naturally have an informal, well-branched habit, though packed with leafy stems.

Trim any long, wayward branches that detract from the overall form. Remove dead or diseased stems any time of year.

Mulch with straw, bark chips, or leaf litter for insulation, temperature regulation, and moisture retention. Keep the thick layer away from the trunks to minimize disease.

Propagation

Sasanqua propagates primarily through cuttings, air layering, and seed. Cuttings and air layers root in about six to eight weeks. 

Because of hybridizing, seeds don’t grow true to type. A ‘Yuletide’ camellia grown from seed will differ from the parent plant in aesthetics and quality. To grow camellias from seed, collect and sow them in late summer. Scarify (rough the surface with sandpaper) or soak seeds for 12 hours until they crack. Plant them in a well-draining seed starting mix. Fresh seeds should germinate in about a month.

Cuttings

Take semi-hardwood cuttings in early summer, and take multiples since not all may root. To propagate via cuttings:

• Cut a four-to-six-inch piece of healthy stem, including woodier pieces. 
• Remove the foliage from the bottom ⅔ of the cutting (keeping at least two leaves intact). Cut large leaves in half. Keep cuttings moist until ready to pot.
• Optional: moisten the cutting and generously coat the lower stem with rooting hormone. Tap off any excess rooting powder.
• Plant the cutting in at least two inches of moist, well-draining potting mix.
• Place the pot or tray in a bright, warm location (72-75°F or 22-24°C), avoiding direct sunlight.
• Water/mist to keep soil evenly moist.
• When the cutting resists a gentle tug, roots are in place and ready to be repotted.
• Plant the cuttings in four-inch pots and move them outside in mild conditions. New plants will be tender.

Air Layering

Air layering involves cutting a living branch to foster a rooted shoot on the parent plant. To successfully air layer, start in spring or summer:

• Remove all leaves several inches along the branch, one to two feet from the stem’s tip.
• From the center of the layering area, make a cut along the stem an inch or more in length and about halfway through the branch. 
• Optional: apply a rooting hormone to the cut surface.
• Pack a handful of pre-soaked sphagnum moss around the branch to cover the cut to form a ball.
• Cover the ball with plastic wrap secured with tape or twine, and wrap it with aluminum foil (wrapping keeps the moss intact and prevents it from drying out).
• By late summer or fall, feeder roots will be visible through the clear wrap.
• When roots are visible, cut the layered stem from the remaining branch. Unwrap and soak the roots before potting. Leave remaining moss in place to avoid disturbing roots. Plant in a container to continue growth before moving to the landscape.

Common Problems

Tea scale and spider mites sometimes affect ‘Yuletide.’ Potential diseases include petal blight and canker. This cultivar resists Phytophthora root rot, a fungal disease more prevalent in C. japonica.

Pests

The best way to control insects is to spot them early. You’ll likely see the insects themselves or notice their systemic indicators.

Scale are common pests that pierce plants to feed on sap. Tea scale (Fiorinia theae) is the most common among camellias. They appear on the undersides of leaves and stems as brownish dots. Leaves show yellow blotches and may drop, with branches dying back in heavy infestations. Remove affected leaves (and branches, if severe).

Spider mites live on the undersides of leaves, indicated by webbing and light yellowing of leaf surfaces. Spider mites occur in dry and dusty conditions, particularly in plants experiencing drought stress. Predatory insects like ladybugs and predatory mites help control populations.

In pest outbreaks, spray the plant with a strong stream of water to deter and knock insects off the stems. A horticultural soap or oil is effective if infestation occurs, but be sure to follow label directions, as these affect beneficial insects as well. Sticker spreader is especially effective for tea scale.

Diseases

As with pests, the best disease control is prevention through cultural conditions. Petal blight is a fungal disease that shows browning of the petal edges and runs to the center. Fortunately, petal blight risk lowers in the winter as ‘Yuletide’ blooms. It’s more prevalent with spring’s moisture. Browning of winter petals is more likely through frost damage. You’ll know it’s petal blight if the browning spreads and causes dark brown veins. If you spot petal blight, remove all impacted plant parts.

The fungus Glomerella cingulata causes dieback and canker, especially in hot, dry conditions. Leaves suddenly turn yellow and wilt, and gray blotches appear on the bark. Cankers (sunken areas) develop on the stem, causing it to die beyond the wound. If cankers develop, cut stems back to several inches of healthy growth. Disinfect pruners between cuts and discard the debris. 

Frequently Asked Questions