How to Plant, Grow, and Care for ‘Sasanqua’ Camellias

Shrubs that flower in fall and winter are rare and a welcome sight among the dwindling greenery. Evergreen shrubs that flower this time of year are even more wonderful. Camellias cover both bases and oh my! Are their flowers ever beautiful? The answer to that question is a resounding yes.

Here in the South, these blooming bushes are staples in the landscape. Flamboyant pops of color decorate, if not every house on my street, then at least every second house. They make excellent landscape elements and are pretty year-round with their glossy evergreen foliage. Sasanqua camellias are easy to care for as long as you meet a few basic needs. 

What Is It?

Sasanqua camellias are a delightful species that have a few characteristics that differ from the more prominent japonica species. Most of their care is similar, but their bloom time and sun tolerance may surprise anyone who already has a C. japonica shrub in the garden. These shrubs have a bushier appearance and make wonderful evergreen hedges. Let’s take a look at these blooming beauties!

Characteristics

Camellias, in general, are evergreen shrubs with a cool-weather blooming season. Where japonica leaves are stiff, shiny, and large, sasanqua camellia foliage is smaller, softer, and more delicate. Their flowers are also petite compared to their relatives, at about three inches across, compared with japonica blooms, which can be as large as five or six inches in diameter. They are more commonly single-petaled with prominent, exposed stamens in the center. 

Sasanquas are usually a bit shorter than japonicas and have a wider spread, while their cousins are more treelike. They make a wonderful hedge because they are attractive all year, and their foliage makes an excellent background for spring and summer bloomers. 

The main differences between the types lie in their sun needs and blooming time. Sasanquas tolerate more direct exposure and bloom earlier in the year, right around the fall holidays. Their flowers come in shades of red, white, and pink. 

Their blooming season is long and often lasts from October until early January. The blooms are wonderfully sturdy and look lovely floating in a bowl of water. Some, though not all, of the varieties have fragrant flowers. 

Native Area

Sasanqua camellias are native to the coastal areas of southern Japan. They are island shrubs that grow predominantly in forests and low-elevation mountains. This genus includes sinensis camellias, which are commonly used to make tea, including matcha. They are hardy in Zones 7-9 and prefer warmer climates than japonica. 

Planting

Autumn is the ideal planting time. In the fall, the soil is still warm from the summer heat, but the air is cooler. Cool air and warm soil create a less stressful environment, so your shrub has plenty of energy to establish a strong root system. Their roots will be fine over the winter. Hot summer weather stresses these, and by then it will have established a solid root foundation. 

Don’t dig too deep a hole for your sasanqua camellia. These are similar to citrus trees in their planting preferences. Dig only as deep and twice as wide a hole as the root ball. Position the root ball in the hole to your liking and backfill loosely.

Growing from Seed

Sasanqua camellias take quite a long time to grow from seeds, but it’s not difficult. Expect that your seedlings will take four to five years to flower. You can purchase seeds or harvest your own. Many varieties are sterile hybrids, so there is no guarantee that your shrub will produce seeds; you just have to wait and see. 

Because they don’t commonly produce seeds, it’s much easier just to purchase them. The seeds are large and germinate slowly. Make sure you choose seeds that look healthy and plump. 

Soak your seeds 12-24 hours before planting to soften the outer shell and promote faster germination. You can also nick the seed with a file, but be careful not to break it, or it won’t germinate. 

Fill pots with moist potting mix. You can mix some peat moss in to raise the pH slightly and retain moisture. Plant your seeds 1/2 inch deep, with the eye facing downward or sideways. 

Place your pots in a brightly lit window and keep the soil moist. Your seeds could germinate within a month. However, they could take some time. Sometimes, they will wait until spring to sprout. 

Transplanting

Once your seeds sprout, give them a few weeks to strengthen. Then, you can move them outdoors and transplant them into larger containers. 

When moving them, you can cut the bottom of the tap root to increase the branching of the root system. When you plant them in the ground, this tap root will help protect them from cold and drought. 

How to Grow

Growing sasanqua camellias is not difficult. They do require some maintenance to optimize flowering and maintain their foliage, but it’s not labor-intensive. If you give them the right environment, they will grow at a moderate pace and flower generously.

Light

Light is one area where sasanquas camellias differ from japonicas. Camellias generally prefer partial shade or dappled light. Here in North Florida, they grow happily beneath the canopy of live oaks. 

Sasanquas, however, are more tolerant of direct sun than their relatives. This is great news if you don’t have a spot with that dappled sun. As long as your shrub gets some shade in the afternoon, it will tolerate a fair amount of direct light early in the day.  

Water

Camellias are moisture-loving plants, so make sure to keep your newly planted shrubs watered. Drainage is important, as sitting in soggy soil will typically lead to root rot. While your shrub is establishing roots, don’t allow the soil to dry out completely. 

Once established, your shrub should be more drought-tolerant and only need watering during times of prolonged drought. If you plant in full sun, expect to supplement with water more often. Regular rainfall in most areas will support an established camellia, though. 

Soil

Sasanqua camellias prefer soil that is slightly acidic (pH 5.5-6.5) and rich in organic material. Adding organic material like compost or manure will help lower the pH if your soil is more neutral or alkaline. Lime can help with a high acidity issue, but it’s best to conduct a soil test to determine where you are starting. 

Temperature and Humidity

Most varieties of C. sasanqua are hardy in Zones 7-9, though some will tolerate Zones 6 and 10 with protection from heat or cold. Sasanquas tend to be more tolerant of differing climates. 

They fall in the mid-range in terms of humidity. 40-60% humidity is the sweet spot. Less than this, and your leaves can become dry and crispy. Too much humidity, and you’ll battle mold or one of the many fungal diseases this plant can contract. 

Fertilizing

It’s important to strike the right balance with fertilizer. It’s beneficial in certain amounts and at certain times, but too much, and you risk burning the leaves. You want to help young plants put on plenty of green growth. Use a high-nitrogen fertilizer three times per year, starting in the spring. A formula of 12-4-8 or similar is ideal. 

As your shrub matures, you can use a formula with lower nitrogen and higher potassium and phosphorus. This promotes strong and healthy blooming. While mature camellias will survive without fertilizing, they will thrive with it. Continue to fertilize three times per year, using a formula of 4-8-8 or similar. 

Apply your fertilizer around the base of the plant, to the drip line. Before applying, use a rake to move any mulch or leaves from the area. After you apply the fertilizer, move the mulch back into place. 

Maintenance

In terms of maintenance, there is little to do with any regularity. Deadheading is only necessary for those varieties that are not self-cleaning. Many sasanquas drop their own petals. For those that don’t, deadheading will help the plant put energy into new blooms, extending the blooming period. 

Sasanqua camellias don’t need pruning in order to flower, but they do benefit from it in other ways. As your young shrub grows over its first years, it’s a good idea to prune to train it. Thinning out the interior and tipping the branches will create a stronger and more attractive plant. 

As your plant ages, you may want to prune to control the size and shape of your camellia. You can prune branches by 1/3 to 1/2 of their length to reduce the size. This will decrease the number of blooms in the next season but ultimately can rejuvenate an overgrown shrub.

Propagation

There are several methods of propagating sasanqua camellias outside of seeds. Any gardener can try these methods at home. Because of a long history of hybridization, there is no guarantee that seeds will breed true, but there are other ways to make that happen. 

Cuttings

Rooted cuttings are a great method for a plant that is an exact replica of the parent and that blooms quickly. The ideal time to take cuttings is from new wood after the blooming season, which is typically in late spring. Take six-inch cuttings of new wood. Cut your branches on a diagonal, below five or six nodes.

Prepare pots with a 1:1 mixture of potting soil and perlite. Fill containers that are at least six inches deep with this mixture and moisten it. Cuttings can go in their own containers, or more than one, in the same container, two inches apart. 

To prepare your cutting, remove all leaves except for the newest set. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone to expedite the rooting process. Make a hole about two inches deep, insert the cutting, and gently firm the soil around the stem.

To create a greenhouse effect, you can cover your cuttings with plastic. Place them in bright but indirect light, and maintain consistent moisture in the soil. Check on them often and inspect for signs of mold. 

In about three months, your cuttings should have rooted. To make sure, you can gently tug just hard enough to detect tension. 

Seedlings

While many camellias are sterile, some are fertile and may drop seeds that form volunteer seedlings. You can dig these up and place them in containers or directly in the ground. I recommend planting them in containers for the first year so they are strong and healthy at planting time. 

Choose a container that is twice the size needed to contain the root system. Trim the tap root to encourage dense roots and branching. Plant your seedlings in soil that is well-draining and slightly acidic, and place them in bright but indirect sun. Keep the soil moist until you’re ready to plant them in the ground. 

Air Layering

Layering is a fun experiment to try if you want a strong plant that is a clone of the parent and will bloom right away. It’s also an effective way of propagating a camellia. Air layering involves encouraging a root ball to grow while the branch is still attached to the parent plant. Perform this process in the spring while the shrub is actively growing.

To accomplish this, choose a branch that you feel will make a well-balanced shrub. A branch that is between one and two feet long is an appropriate size. Clear a space at this length of leaves. Score the branch in two places, two to three inches apart, and gently scrape the bark off in between. This is where the roots will form.

Using a layering ball, cloth, or plastic, wrap some moist soil or peat moss around the exposed part of the branch. Hold it in place with the layering ball or plastic. 

Check on your medium weekly, making sure that it remains moist. In two to three months, roots should form in the soil. When there is a substantial root ball, remove the cutting from the tree and transplant it. 

Grafting

Grafting is more complicated and usually done to grow a less hardy variety onto strong rootstock. Sasanquas have strong roots, so they are usually the rootstock chosen. This is more often used to graft japonica branches onto sasanqua rootstock than the latter.

Popular Varieties

Here are the most popular varieties of sasanqua camellias.

‘Yuletide’

	botanical name Camellia x vernalis ‘Yuletide’
	sun requirements Full sun to partial shade
	height 8’-10’
	hardiness zones 7-9

‘Yuletide’ is a favorite of mine and a universally loved variety. It’s an early to mid-season bloomer with a long bloom time. It typically blooms from late fall into early winter, just in time for the winter holidays.

This mid-sized shrub has glossy, dark green foliage. It makes a stunning backdrop for the brilliant red flowers. The three-inch blooms are profuse and perfectly shaped. Single-petaled, they have a golden eye of stamens in the center. 

‘Plantation Pink’

	botanical name Camellia sasanqua ‘Plantation Pink’
	sun requirements Full sun to partial shade
	height 15’-20’
	hardiness zones 7-9

‘Plantation Pink’ is a large, vigorous grower that blooms in the fall. It typically begins blooming in October and lasts for two or more months. It has lovely arching stems and glossy green leaves. 

Its imposing stature makes this a wonderful privacy screen. The flowers are medium-sized (3″-4″) and perfectly pink. They are semi-double-petaled, a rarer form for a sasanqua. 

‘Mine-No-Yuki’

	botanical name Camellia sasanqua ‘Mine-No-Yuki’
	sun requirements Full sun to partial shade
	height 6’-8’
	hardiness zones 7-9

‘Mine-No-Yuki’ is a popular variety with fully double-petaled blooms that closely resemble those of C. japonica. They are smaller but no less beautiful. The pure white flowers have a sprinkle of yellow stamens among the petals, giving them a golden glow. 

This is an early-season bloomer and a compact variety. This camellia is only six to eight feet tall at maturity and is great for smaller spaces.

‘Kanjiro’

	botanical name Camellia sasanqua ‘Kanjiro’
	sun requirements Full sun to partial shade
	height 8’-10’
	hardiness zones 7-9

Somewhere between pink and red, ‘Kanjiro’ is a magenta masterpiece. In the fall, it produces a mass of hot pink, double-petaled blooms. This variety will stand out in any landscape. It blooms for a long period, often lasting into the early winter months. It grows into an attractive, dense, bushy form. 

Common Problems

Sasanqua camellias are not immune to the garden issues common to most other plants. They’re not pest or disease-resistant, but they are rather sturdy, and you can usually remedy those issues discovered early. 

Pests

Beetles, weevils, grasshoppers, aphids, scale, and mites are the pests that most commonly affect camellias. Start with a strong stream of water from a hose early in the day. Neem oil or horticultural oil are effective treatments for spider mites, aphids, weevils, and beetles. It’s best to attract beneficial insects that prey on these pests, but that can be difficult in the winter. 

Always apply these products when pollinators are not present. Once they are dry, they won’t harm insects. Attracting ladybugs and lacewings is the best way to keep pests at bay. 

Traps can be effective for beetles, and sometimes, you can remove them and weevils by hand. Sticky traps are sometimes effective as well, but these catch your beneficial predators as well. In the event of a serious infestation, insecticidal soap should help. 

Diseases

The most common diseases are root rot, petal blight, and dieback. Root rot is commonly the result of poor drainage or overwatering, so it is preventable in most cases. Leaf spots of various kinds are generally controlled by removing diseased leaves as they crop up and pruning for airflow.

Sasanquas tend to be more resistant to petal blight than late-blooming types. This disease spreads by spores and can travel a long way. It’s not treatable, but removing affected flowers can help to slow the spread. 

Dieback is a fungal issue sometimes caused by contaminated tools. Treatment is the removal of affected branches with clean loppers. If it’s the lower branches affected, it can cause whole plant death. Do not compost any diseased plant parts, and always dispose of them in the trash.

Frequently Asked Questions