15 Vegetables that Grow in Sun and Shade

Just because you have a shady yard, it doesn’t mean you can’t grow vegetables. Some crops are very adaptable to different sunlight conditions. Join former vegetable farmer Briana Yablonski to learn about veggies that can grow well in sun and shade.

One of many vegetables sun and shade, appearing dense and healthy with vivid green leaves growing in dark brown soil

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When selecting a spot for a veggie garden, full sun is often the best choice. This light gives plants the energy they need to grow lush green leaves and form flowers and fruits. However, not all veggies need full sun to thrive.

Non-fruiting vegetables grow well in full sun, but many also tolerate partial shade. That means you can tuck them in the dappled light of that big maple tree or plant them in a spot next to your fence that receives afternoon shade. Although these vegetables will grow just fine in partial shade, don’t be surprised if they grow slower than when you plant them in full sun.

‘New Fire’ Red Lettuce

New Red Fire Lettuce seed

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Red Leaf Lettuce Seeds

‘Di Cicco’ Broccoli

Di Cicco Broccoli Seeds

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Italian Broccoli Seeds

Bloomsdale Spinach

Bloomsdale Spinach Seeds

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Lettuce

A person in plaid a shirt, holding a freshly harvested lettuce in hand, with the same crop growing in the background.
It can thrive even in partial shade.

Since we aren’t interested in eating the flowers and seeds of lettuce, it’s a great crop to try growing in partial shade. In fact, most types of lettuce prefer a bit of afternoon shade, especially during the summer. That means you can tuck lettuce plants in the ground beside the eastern edge of a fence or plant them beside towering tomato plants.

If you don’t have natural shade, you can use shade cloth to help keep the plants cool during the heat of summer. This material lets in some light but keeps the plants cooler during scorching afternoons. Many growers find it helpful to put shade cloth over recently transplanted lettuce seedlings to help them acclimate to their new environment.

If you’re growing lettuce in partial shade during the spring or fall, expect them to grow slower than those planted in full sun. The plants may also be subdued in color, especially if they’re red-leaf varieties like ‘New Red Fire’ and ‘Red Sails.’ Although these lettuces may look a little different than you’re used to, they’re still safe to eat.

Kale

A bunch of Kale plants with curly leaves planted in rich soil.
Plant them in the early days of spring.

All types of kale can grow well in partial shade. Although the plants may remain shorter and individual leaves will grow slower, you can still expect to enjoy a sizable harvest over multiple months. Try growing ‘Red Russian’ for tender baby kale and ‘Dazzling Blue’ or ‘Redbor’ for hardy mature leaves.

Kale can tolerate frost, so you can plant it in your garden in the early spring and enjoy fall plants late into the season. Keep an eye out for pests including flea beetles, harlequin bugs, and cabbage worms. Some pest control strategies include excluding the pests with floating row covers, planting companion plants that attract predatory insects, and treating the plants with organic products like Bt and neem oil.

Since kale continues to produce new leaves, you can harvest from a single plant for multiple months. Remove the larger leaves near the base of the stalk and leave the smaller ones on the plant to mature.

Carrots

A man harvesting a handful of carrots, in different sizes, and is riddled with soil, from the ground.
They grow best when the seeds are directly sown in the garden.

Although carrots won’t produce healthy greens and sizable roots in full shade, they don’t mind a few hours of morning or afternoon sun. If you have the ability to choose between these two, opt for afternoon shade. The morning light will help dry the leaves and prevent fungal diseases like alternaria.

Since carrots are root vegetables, they grow best when you directly sow the seeds in the garden. Place a few seeds per inch, water well, and keep the soil moist until seedlings appear. Carrots can take multiple weeks to germinate in cool temperatures, so be patient and keep them moist during this time.

Once the seedlings are a few inches tall, you can thin them so they’re an inch or two apart. Since you won’t be able to see the roots developing, it can be tricky to know when to harvest. Using the days to maturity on the seed packet is a good way to determine when to pull them from the ground. Since the shade can slow their growth, you may need to add a week or two to the predicted harvest date.

Broccoli

A close up view of a person's hand, holding and cutting a broccoli plant.
The crowns of the broccoli may vary in size based on sun exposure.

Most of the veggies on this list produce leaves or roots rather than flowers and fruits. Although we eat broccoli flower buds, these plants can still produce well in partial shade. The broccoli crowns may be smaller than if you grew the plants in full sun, but providing good soil nutrition and consistent water will help the plants produce a sizable harvest.

You can always grow standard varieties like ‘Di Cicco,’ but you can also experiment with growing sprouting varieties like ‘Rapini.’ These plants have a shorter time to maturity and produce multiple shoots rather than one large head. The tender stalks are just as delicious as the small crowns, so make sure to enjoy the whole shoot.

All types of broccoli grow best in cool weather, so plant them outdoors in the early spring and late summer. If you live in a cooler climate, you may be able to get away with setting plants outdoors in the late spring.

Beets

A bunch of soil-ridden, freshly harvested, red-purple colored beets, laying on the ground
The longer you leave the beets in the ground, the larger they can grow.

No matter if you like earthy red beets, sweet golden varieties, or beautiful striped varieties, you can successfully grow these root veggies in a bit of shade. If possible, plant the beets in an area that receives morning sun since this will dry the leaves and inhibit the development of cercospora leaf spot, fusarium wilt, and other fungal diseases. 

Plant the seeds directly in the garden and space them about an inch apart. Since each beet “seed” actually contains multiple seeds, the seedlings may emerge closer than you’d like. Thinning them so they’re about two inches apart will allow for good airflow and provide plenty of room for the roots to mature.

You can harvest beets at any stage, but the longer you leave them in the ground, the larger they will grow. Many gardeners grow beets for their flavorful roots, but you can also enjoy their greens raw or cooked. If you plan on storing the beets for more than a few days, separate the greens and roots to keep them both crisp.

Arugula

A close up view of a person's hand plucking a single leaf of a wild arugula plant with the same crop filling the background.
They can be ready to harvest in less than a month after sowing.

The peppery flavor of arugula brightens salads and sandwiches no matter the time of year. And since the leaves are ready to harvest less than a month after sowing, you can plant multiple successions of this green throughout the growing season. Simply sprinkle the seeds in a row, aiming for about five seeds per inch.

You can harvest arugula at any size, but the tender baby leaves are excellent raw. The stems provide a subtle crunch, and the leaves are the perfect mixture of tender and crisp. Larger leaves can be enjoyed raw or tossed into pasta and added on top of sandwiches.

Although the first cutting of arugula is often the best, you can harvest the plants multiple times. If you’re growing baby greens in rows, use a knife or scissors to cut the plants about an inch above the soil. The small leaves near the center of the plants will continue to grow and be ready to harvest in a week or two.

Radishes

A handful of soil-ridden, freshly harvested Cherry Belle radishes, resting on the ground showcasing their bright red hue and green stems.
Use well-draining soil and a nutrient-rich compost.

Crisp, peppery, and full of color, radishes thrive in cool-weather gardens. Since the plants tolerate cool weather, and we aren’t interested in their flowers or seeds, they’re great candidates for growing in partial shade. You can opt for small roots like ‘French Breakfast’ and ‘Cherry Belle’ or larger radishes like ‘Round Black Spanish’ and ‘Miyashige White Daikon.’

Regardless of which type of radish you’re growing, choose an area with well-draining soil and amend the soil with a nutrient-rich compost or balanced fertilizer. Place the seeds about half an inch under the ground, cover with soil, water well, and wait until the seedlings emerge.

Depending on the variety, the roots will be ready to harvest between 20-60 days after sowing.

Since radishes don’t require much maintenance and thrive in most conditions besides extreme heat, they’re a great option for beginner gardeners. Plus, the quick time to maturity of small radishes makes them satisfying for kids and impatient gardeners. 

Scallions

A pile of freshly harvested, soil-ridden, scallions with their white roots still intact.
When growing scallions, you can sow the seeds in clumps, or a single-file row.

Also known as green onions, scallions are members of the onion family that never form bulbs. Their white roots and green tops both have a subdued flavor that brightens meals including stir-fry, ramen, and egg dishes. And since the onions are ready to harvest in about two months after planting, they’re a quicker alternative to bulb onions.

You can directly sow scallion seeds or start them in seedling trays and later transplant them to your garden. If you’re growing them from seedlings, you can plant four to six seeds per cell and transplant the whole clump into the soil. You can either directly sow the seeds in clumps or plant them single-file in a row.

Technically, you can harvest the onions at any size. However, waiting until they’re the width of a pencil is ideal.

Spinach

Multiple rows of green spinach in a field.
You can harvest them over multiple months.

Full of vitamins and versatile in the kitchen, spinach is a must-have in just about every garden. You can harvest the plants over multiple months unless warm weather causes them to bolt. Just pinch or cut the larger outer leaves and leave the smaller ones to continue to grow.

Spinach can be a heavy feeder, so it’s helpful to amend the soil with a nutrient-rich compost or balanced fertilizer before planting. If the plants are in the ground for multiple months, they may benefit from an additional dose of nutrients in the form of side dressing or foliar feeding.

Since spinach doesn’t tolerate heat well, you’ll likely need to plant it once in the spring and again in the fall. Fall-sown plants can survive temperatures well below freezing, so you can continue to harvest the leaves in the winter. Just make sure to allow any frozen leaves to thaw before harvesting to avoid ending up with a pile of mush.

Chard

A row of swiss chard growing in the ground, that also showcases the plant's bright red-purple stems and green leaves.
They struggle in warm or hot conditions.

Whether you like the sleek white stems of ‘Fordhook Giant’ or love the bright color that ‘Celebration’ Swiss chard brings, you can grow this green close to year-round. Although the plants don’t love heat, they tolerate it better than greens like kale and spinach. And as long as you cover them with row cover, they can withstand below-freezing temperatures.

Although you can try direct seeding chard, most growers transplant seedlings. Spacing the seedlings 10-12 inches apart allows them to grow into large plants, but you can also plant them a few inches apart for baby chard. When it comes time to harvest, just cut or snap the outer stalks near the base of the plant. The remaining small leaves will grow and provide another harvest.

Bok Choy

A close up photo of a person holing a basket full of freshly harvested bok choy.
You can harvest them two months after planting.

A popular Asian green, bok choy is a versatile veggie in the garden and kitchen. You can harvest the plants at any size—baby plants work whole in stir fry and soup while larger plants can be fermented or sliced for sautés. Not all varieties will reach the same size, so pay attention to the descriptions if you want to harvest large heads.

Most types of bok choy are ready to harvest about two months after planting, so you can grow multiple successions in the spring and fall. Avoid planting in the summer since heat can encourage bitter flavor and bolting.

Direct sowing the seeds a few inches apart is perfect for baby bok choy. If you want to enjoy large crops, you can sow the seeds closely and thin out some plants to eat small and leave others to grow larger. If you’re lacking garden space, you can also start the seeds indoors and transplant them into the garden after a few weeks.

Collards

Multiple columns of healthy leafy collards in a farm with a dirt path on the  right side.
When planting collards, make sure to leave adequate spaces in between to mature.

A staple of Southern kitchens, collards are hearty plants that thrive in cool conditions. Although you can grow them in the spring, their leaves shine because the cold weather concentrates their sugars. Most collards can tolerate temperatures well below freezing, so you can continue to harvest the nutritious leaves into the winter.

When you’re planting collards, space them 12-18 inches apart to ensure the plants have adequate space to mature. Since collards require lots of nitrogen to produce their lush green leaves, amend the soil with a nutrient-rich compost, worm castings, or a balanced fertilizer before planting. 

Turnips

A bunch of soil covered, freshly harvested purple and yellow turnips.
Plant them in the early spring or late summer.

Turnips taste great straight out of the garden, and they also store well throughout the winter. You can find all types of turnips, including tender ‘White Lady’ roots, perfect for eating fresh or pickling, and large ‘Purple Top White Globe’, which are great for roasting and mashing.

All of these root veggies grow best in cool weather, so plant them out in the garden in the early spring and late summer. Direct sowing the seeds is best, and spacing seeds about an inch apart provides the roots with room to mature. If you find the plants are too close together, just thin out some of the seedlings to provide extra room.

You can harvest turnips at any size, but leaving them in the ground longer will lead to larger roots. Just don’t let them get too big, or you’ll risk dealing with pithy and woody roots. And remember to enjoy the greens as well as the starchy roots.

Cabbage

A close-up shot of a head of a white cabbage, growing in a farm, with the same crop in the background
They are susceptible to pests like aphids and flea beetles.

If you’re growing cabbage in partial shade, look for smaller varieties with shorter days to maturity. These varieties have a better chance of maturing before hot temperatures or dark days arrive. Starting the seeds indoors will give the seedlings a jump start and also ensure you can provide the ideal spacing.

Like most brassicas, cabbage is susceptible to numerous pests. Keep an eye out for aphids, flea beetles, cabbage worms, harlequin bugs, and more. If you spot pests, treat them ASAP so they don’t get out of control.

Provide consistent water, a balanced fertilizer, and well-draining soil to help keep your crops healthy and happy. Since plants that are grown in shade dry more slowly than those grown in full sun, utilize drip irrigation to keep the leaves dry.

Cilantro

a close-up shot of two rows of green cilantro growing in a garden bed.
These herbs thrive in cool temperatures.

Although it’s technically an herb, cilantro is another flavorful green that doesn’t mind a bit of shade. This crop thrives in cool temperatures, so afternoon shade helps it remain productive during hot summers. Just make sure to pair this shade with consistent moisture and good soil fertility.

Cilantro grows equally well when directly sown and transplanted. Direct sowing allows you to easily grow a large patch of the herb, but transplanting works well if you’re dealing with a crowded garden. When it’s time to harvest, remove the longer outer stems and leave the smaller leaves to mature.

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