5 Signs of an Unhealthy Bare-Root Rose

Bare-root roses come right from the field to our front door, ready to prep and plant in their new garden location. Selecting bare-root lets us hone in on grower specialties and collector favorites, reserving them in advance for delivery as conditions become prime for planting.

Bare-root roses arrive without soil or foliage. Plucked from the field in a dormant state, growers bundle their roots and stems and ship them ready for potting or installing in the display bed upon arrival. Because of the time of year and temperature fluctuations during shipping (usually sent in late winter and early spring) and the tender state of the plant, it helps to know what to look for in assessing the viability of a bare-root rose.

As our reserved roses arrive later this season or pop up on garden center shelves, we’ll know what to look for and how to prep them for planting. Starting with a healthy bare-root rose in nourishing soil gives the best foundation for years of enjoyment and good performance.

Sourcing Roses and How They Arrive

Late winter, early spring, and fall are the best times to plant roses. The cool conditions and seasonal moisture pose the least stress on the new plant without exposing tender growth to freezing or hot situations. Temperatures between 40-60°F (4-16°C) are ideal. But you can plant roses any time of year outside of frozen or waterlogged soils or drought conditions (which cause stress and hinder growth).

Winter is optimal for reserving roses from online vendors, and ordering early gives a better chance of seasonal availability. Know your growing zone and final frost date, as roses can go in the ground before spring’s last frost. Since exposure to freezing soils and air temperatures can cause dieback, leave roses with the grower until conditions are favorable for planting.

Bare Root

Bare-root roses arrive dormant and without soil in the cool season. They usually hold a few clipped stems and prominent roots, sometimes in a damp material like wood shavings, paper, or peat moss. Once planted, the root zone develops as it meets soil volume, moisture, and warm conditions. Upper growth quickly ensues with blooms the first summer.

Bare-root over potted selections means less weight, reduced shipping costs, and more choices. The dormant specimens make an easier transition from grower to garden with less transplant shock and adjusting to environmental differences. They’re also easy to plant.

Some growers only ship in fall or late winter/early spring. Order in advance, scheduling delivery when planting conditions are right so the rose can move quickly into its garden location without lingering in a bare state. It’s challenging to tell if they’re alive upon arrival, and we’ll examine visual signs. If you suspect an unhealthy or iffy specimen, communicate with the grower and take photos if remote. Reputable outlets honor a refund or replacement if the issue occurs in their stead.

In Containers

Roses also ship in pots, and of course, container specimens are available year-round from local nurseries, in highest numbers in spring as new growth flushes and budding begins. If ordering container specimens (usually in one or three-gallon pots), opt for a spring delivery in cold climates with less susceptibility to temperature fluctuations.

Selecting Bare-Root

To avoid discrepancies in the commercial market, bare-root plants maintain a standard grading system to reflect size. Many modern hybrids are grafted, where breeders fuse the upper growth of one variety with the rootstock of another for hardiness, disease resistance, and other selected traits.

Grafted roses have three grades based on the number and caliper (diameter) of the canes: #1, #1 ½, and #2. Knowing your grade helps indicate what to look for in overall health. Grade #1 is the largest and best for the strongest selection at the start. Smaller grades will cost less and catch up in growth over a longer period of time. The graft union, where the upper growth meets the base, is sensitive to cold exposure.

Other than grafted, “own root” roses are available bare-root. Own root selections grow from cuttings with their original roots. They may arrive smaller than grafted selections and adhere to a different grading system for deciduous shrubs.

Look for Wrinkled, Discolored Stems

The first visual cue for healthy bare-root roses is cane viability. Canes should be plump, smooth, and thick at the right diameter for the grade. If stems appear shriveled or wrinkled, they most likely dried out between harvesting and arrival. Buds, too, should be intact, richly colored, and not wrinkled or dry. Shipping delays or storing roses too long after they arrive cause issues.

Stem color is another hallmark. Canes should be green with a white, pithy interior. Avoid brown canes with brown, brittle interiors. You may also see red or white shoots, a sign that growth emerged in the dark box. Leave these in place to green up and develop after planting.

If stems break or show dry tissues, don’t risk it. There was likely a lack of available moisture. If canes develop black or brown tips, the canes may have winter damage and experience dieback. A bare-root rose trying to recover post-dormancy will delay or hinder growth.

Mushy Roots

Roots should be symmetrical, strong, and intact beneath the crown. They should be free of damage, knotting, and disease. If you encounter dark, mushy roots, it means decay is an issue. Too much moisture surrounding the roots or prolonged saturation causes fungal problems like root rot. 

Correcting dead roots isn’t a battle to take on with a new selection. If it involves a fungal pathogen, spores may spread to other plants.

Since roses come from the field, the roots may show normal dirt or debris. As moisture holds in warm situations during the shipping process, they may also show mold growth. This is likely superficial and not a disease. Rinse off the roots prior to soaking to remove the spores, and consider spraying them with a small amount of hydrogen peroxide diluted with water.

Soft Crown

When inspecting the roots, also check the graft union at the crown. The bud or graft union is a knot or swollen point just above the roots, and it should feel firm. A corky or mushy graft point indicates a bigger problem, either from disease, cold damage, or other cultural imbalances. It’s best to start with a healthy graft union, as it’s the basis for upper growth.

Dry Roots

When they arrive, roots should be prominent and turgid without breakage. They shouldn’t appear shriveled, flat, or withered. There may be a few weak or thin ones, easily trimmed away, but the majority should be stout. Bare-root roses need rehydration before planting from a good soak for two to twelve hours to restore moisture to the roots. Roots will plump up, ready to respond to optimal growing conditions. 

But already-dry roots won’t respond or revive with rehydration. They’re inviable, unable to draw moisture and nutrients to support upper growth. 

Too Few Stems

If you opted for a grade #1 specimen, it should have at least three strong branches and as many as five. Hearty canes should be about six inches long and have three to five buds. Remove any weak or spindly stems at the start, as these won’t serve the young plant except to take up resources. The crown should be open with balanced branching from the dominant leaders.

Preparation and Planting

With the rose inspected and ready to prep, give the plants a soak in a bucket of water to rehydrate. Trim any long, straggly roots to about eight inches. The planting site should be ready with loose, rich soil amended with compost.

In the prepared garden bed or pot, dig a hole to support the root spread. Backfill carefully so the upper canes are upright with the graft union and crown at the soil level (not settling below it). Water thoroughly to moisten both the canes and the roots, and water regularly to support young feeder roots with even moisture.

Roses grow beautifully in containers in well-draining soils. Treat these as you would in-ground specimens in gauging when and how to plant, but keep in mind that pots lack the insulation and moisture retention of surrounding soil mass. Because of their above-ground siting, only a thin wall protects roots from surrounding air temperatures. 

In cold climates, the soil is susceptible to frost heaving, leading to root disturbance and damage. Long-term, opt for a variety that is one to two zones hardier than your growing zone. In hot summers, check the moisture level often, watering when the soil surface is dry a couple of inches deep.