How to Dig and Transplant Lilac Shrub Runners
If you have an old lilac, you’re probably familiar with the suckers that sprout from the roots! These suckers, or runners, can grow into new shrubs to fill your yard. Learn how to dig and transplant lilac runners alongside seasoned grower Jerad Bryant.
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Lilacs, or plants in the Syringa genus, are deciduous flowering shrubs with emerald green leaves and purple, white, or pink blooms. The fragrant blooms emerge in clusters as the days lengthen and warm in early spring. While new blooms emerge, suckers sprout from the base of the shrubs.
These suckers, or runners, are offshoots of the main plant. They sprout from underground offshoots of the main lilac. Using shovels and pruners, you can remove these offshoots and propagate them for more lilacs.
This propagation method works well on non-grafted lilac shrubs. Many varieties are grafted onto hardy rootstock, which means that the lower trunk is a different variety from the trunk growing above the graft union. Any stems that sprout will have different characteristics. You may dig and transplant them, but know they’ll grow differently than the original plant.
Now let’s get to it! Dig and transplant lilac shrub runners with these nine easy steps.
Step 1: Gather Tools
A few tools will make this an easy task. Start by gathering the following supplies:
- Garden Shovel
- Pruners
- Bucket
- Water Source
A shovel helps dig out the shoots, while pruners help sever thick, woody roots. The bucket and water source are necessary for keeping the runners hydrated until you can transplant or pot them up. An optional supply is compost—use it to blanket the soil near fresh transplants to help them establish after planting.
Step 2: Locate Healthy Runners
Lilac runners appear in early spring as buds swell on the upper stems, and you need to catch them at the right time to transplant. You’ll notice leafy shoots emerging from the ground in a large perimeter around the shrub. Any left from the previous season will grow taller and thicker each year until they overtake the original plant!
Young suckers with one or two buds on a short stem may not grow well after transplanting, though larger ones will fare well. Locate healthy, vigorous, and thick runners to dig up.
It’s best to remove any remaining suckers that you don’t plan on digging out. They draw energy away from the original plant, leading to fewer flowers on the shrub next spring. You may let them grow if you’d like a dense thicket with multiple stems.
Step 3: Dig Out Shoots
After identifying the stems you’d like to propagate, it’s time to dig them out of the ground. Grab your shovel and dig as close to the main lilac as possible, rather than near the runner. This allows you to excavate as many roots as possible with the suckers, which will help them adapt well after transplanting.
Continue digging a perimeter around the runner, taking care not to damage the offshoots. Some may not have roots—that’s okay! They likely won’t survive transplanting, but the rootless stems are good candidates for propagation as cuttings.
Once it’s easy to lift the shoot from the soil, it’s time to take a closer look at its roots. Don’t use the shovel to sever thick runners, as it may make jagged cuts and harm the plants.
Step 4: Sever Thick Roots
Mature suckers sprout thick roots to anchor themselves to the ground. You’ll need sharp pruners to dislodge them safely with clean cuts. Start by locating the thick roots that lock the runners to the soil.
Prune each thick root, then gently lift the sucker. If it’s still stuck, take a closer look at the plant to see the remaining roots. Any remaining ones will prevent the sucker from coming out of the ground. Prune each remaining root one by one, then lift the plant again to see if it comes up.
Small feeders are equally as important as the thick, anchoring ones. Gently prune to ensure you leave them intact.
Step 5: Maintain Consistent Moisture
Without the soil’s protection, the lilac runners are subject to drying out before you can transplant them. This is where the bucket full of water comes in handy! Put each runner into the bucket as soon as you remove them from the ground. They’ll stay happy and hydrated inside the water bucket until you’re ready to plant them.
Two to three days is the maximum amount of time you should leave the shoots in the water bucket. They’ll decline over time without access to fresh soil. Prepare pots or empty beds for planting soon after uprooting the runners to give them a good chance of surviving.
Step 6: Trim Roots
If you’re planting the offshoots in the ground rather than pots, you may skip this step. Pots have limited space, meaning you may have to trim the suckers’ roots to help them fit inside. A gentle hand is key in preventing excess damage during this step.
Remove as little of the roots as possible so the offshoots fit safely into the containers. Thick, horizontal ones pose a challenge; simply prune them off with quick, sharp cuts.
Take a look at the top growth. Leggy stems are at risk of falling over, and it’s better to prune them now instead of after planting. Cut leggy specimens back to buds or new shoots forming low on the stems.
Step 7: Pot Up Runners
Trimmed, hydrated lilac runners are ready for transplanting into pots! Prepare containers or grow bags with fresh potting soil, then place a rooted stem inside each one. Put more potting soil on top of their roots until it reaches the top of the containers.
Water the potted plants, then set them under partial shade for a week or two. Though lilacs need full sun to thrive, partial shade is ideal during the rooting process. Protected porches, patios, or balconies are ideal locations for this period. The potted lilacs will thrive under full sun after the transition period.
The shrubs are ready for transplanting when they’re well rooted, three months or more after potting up. Transplant them in the fall or wait until the following spring.
Step 8: Transplant Runners
Lilacs need full sun to thrive; they prefer six or more hours of daily direct sunlight during the growing season. Choose a proper site, as it’ll be where your lilacs live for the rest of their lives. They’re difficult to transplant after establishing themselves.
To transplant, dig a hole twice as wide and as deep as your shrub’s rootball. Remove the lilac from the container, and loosen up the bottom of the rootball. Place the lilac inside the hole, then add more soil back around its roots. Water the site well. You may need to add more soil to the hole if the ground sinks after watering.
Once new growth occurs, you’ll know your propagated lilacs are adapting well to their new environments. Continue with proper aftercare and they’ll thrive for decades to come!
Step 9: Aftercare
Lilacs need full sun, well-drained soil, and consistent moisture to thrive. Watch for pests like powdery mildew, scale insects, and thrips. Healthy shrubs are pest-resistant.
Adding compost or leaf mold to the ground once or twice a year is another beneficial task for lilacs. The compost breaks down slowly, adding nutrients, microbes, and structure to the soil. Add a two to three-inch-thick layer on top of the ground, leaving a gap between the lilac’s trunks and the compost.
Suckers will sprout annually in the spring. Choose to propagate them, remove them, or let them grow. Avoid letting suckers of grafted varieties grow, as they’ll overtake the original plant with undesirable growth.
