13 Plants You Should Prune in the Fall, and 13 You Should Leave For Spring
Are you anxious to do some cleaning up in the garden? Before you pull out those pruning shears, let's talk about which you should go ahead with and which should wait for spring. Gardening expert Melissa Strauss tells you which to prune and what factors influence the decision.

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When the garden starts to look a bit overgrown and dry, I get that itchy trigger finger feeling and start reaching for my pruning shears. It would be so easy to get outdoors while the weather is nice and do some major work. Who doesn’t enjoy a freshly cleaned-up yard?
As much as I know it’s hard to resist, there are some plants that we shouldn’t prune in the fall. Doing so can lead to stress over the winter and a decrease in blooming for many spring bloomers, though not all.
It is important to know which plants to prune in the fall and what to leave for spring. But before we dive into those lists, I’d like to share some reasons to cut back now or hold off.
Influencing Factors

According to the CAES (Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station), there are six primary reasons for pruning your plants. It’s important to understand these reasons so that you can prune based on your ultimate objective.
These basic reasons are:
- To keep your plants healthy and attractive.
- To maintain the desired size.
- To encourage the production of fruits and flowers.
- To maintain the form of hedges, topiaries, and the like.
- To rejuvenate old, misshapen, leggy, or overgrown plants.
- To reduce the danger of property or personal damage.
Understanding the reasons for pruning can help us determine when and how to complete the process. We will save the methodology for another time and focus on timing here.
Most plants’ blooming and fruiting habits determine when to prune them. If a plant blooms on old wood, you should prune it immediately after it finishes blooming or bearing fruit. This gives it the maximum amount of time to produce new wood and mature.
If you prune an old wood bloomer after it has begun to set buds, you risk losing blooms for that year. Summer-blooming trees and shrubs blooming on old wood are best pruned in the fall.
Pruning encourages new growth, and new growth is more vulnerable to winter weather. This can cause more damage to the plant than allowing it to go through winter with mature growth.
If a plant blooms on new growth, you should wait until late winter while it is still dormant. When it wakes up, it will burst into action. It will produce the maximum amount of new growth, and you’ll get a more bountiful blooming season.
Pruning some plants helps prevent pest and disease damage. We will add those to the list of plants we should trim in the fall. Even for those plants you should prune in the fall, leaving the pruning for after the first freeze is best. This helps prevent that flush of growth before winter.
Plants to Prune in the Fall
Some minor trimming of damaged branches is fine for most plants at any time of year, so this list doesn’t include that type of trimming. If you have a plant indicated for spring pruning but has broken or damaged limbs or branches, clean them up at any time.
For the most part, we should prune only those that bloom or bear fruit in the fall in late summer. Others may suffer an increased risk of disease or pest infestation over the winter. These herbaceous perennials are best pruned after the first frost to protect their roots and crown from potential rot.
Hydrangeas (Smooth and Panicle)

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botanical name Hydrangea arborescens and Hydrangea paniculata |
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sun requirements Full sun to partial shade |
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height 3’-25’ |
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hardiness zones 3-9 |
These species of hydrangea bloom either on new wood or on a combination of old and new wood. As a result, you can prune them either after they finish blooming or in late fall. Wait until they are dormant to prevent a flush of growth in the fall that won’t thrive through the winter.
If you’re unsure what type of hydrangea you have, check the ends of the branches. If you see buds forming, it blooms on old wood. You should prune this shrub immediately after it finishes blooming, if at all.
Roses

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botanical name Rosa spp. |
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sun requirements Full sun to partial shade |
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height 2-20 |
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hardiness zones Varies, most thrive in 5-8 |
This one isn’t a simple yes or no, but there are arguments for fall pruning and for waiting until after they bloom. Some rose gardeners prefer to prune their shrubs right after the first freeze. This is when the rose is dormant and won’t put out tender new growth.
Prune the entire shrub back by about 1/3. Also, remove twiggy growth and any damaged branches. Remove any suckers from the ground. Remove canes that cross the center to create a nice shape and allow sun and air circulation to the shrub’s center.
Lavender

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botanical name Lavandula spp. |
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sun requirements Full sun |
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height 1’-3’ |
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hardiness zones 5-9 |
Lavender needs yearly pruning to prevent it from becoming leggy and to keep it flowering. The best time to cut back your lavender is in the fall, at least six weeks before the first frost date. If you miss this window, spring pruning is fine, too. However, you’ll miss out on harvesting flowers if you wait for next year.
Cut back lavender shrubs, leaving an inch or two of green growth at the ends. The plant may not rebound well if you cut back too hard to the woody growth. For shaping purposes, you can trim some portions back to the woody stems but no more than 1/3 of the total plant.
Pomegranate

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botanical name Punica granatum |
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sun requirements Full sun |
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height 6’-40’ |
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hardiness zones 8–10 |
Pomegranate trees don’t need excessive pruning, although some shaping and trimming will help to create a stronger, healthier tree. Since we harvest pomegranates in the early fall, fall is the time to prune.
Trim off the most unproductive large branches, as these suck energy from the branches that produce heavily. Remove any crossing branches to keep the crown open. Trim off any twigs less than the diameter of a pencil and any damaged wood.
Bearded Iris

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botanical name Iris x germanica |
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sun requirements Full sun |
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height 1’-4’ |
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hardiness zones 3-9 |
Cutting back bearded irises in the fall helps to prevent pests and diseases from damaging them in dormancy. Wait for the leaves to turn brown, and then remove all the foliage, leaving about six inches of growth in a fan shape.
The fan shape keeps moisture from settling into the iris’s crown and causing fungal crown rot. For leaves that look damaged or diseased, trim them back to the ground. Don’t leave any parts attached, and don’t compost them.
Blanket Flower

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botanical name Gaillardia aristata |
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sun requirements Full sun |
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height 2’-3’ |
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hardiness zones 3-8 |
Blanket flowers do a ton of blooming. These guys can flower for the better part of the year if given the proper care. In colder climates, this perennial will die back completely in winter. Pruning in fall or late winter will encourage fuller, healthier growth in spring.
You can prune these in one of two ways. You can cut most of the stems down to the ground, leaving only a few with about two inches of growth. The second method is trimming the entire plant to about six inches tall. This is mostly for aesthetics, but either method works well.
Catmint

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botanical name Nepeta x faassenii |
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sun requirements Full sun to partial shade |
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height 9”-3’ |
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hardiness zones 5-9 |
Catmint is a cold-hardy herb that will survive most winters without any special care. However, most is not all, and there are things you can do to preserve the plant.
In late fall, trim the branches back to six inches from the ground after a freeze. Then, spread a thick layer of mulch around the base to insulate the roots.
Daylilies

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botanical name Hemerocallis fulva and Hemerocallis lilioasphodelus |
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sun requirements Full sun to partial shade |
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height 2’-6’ |
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hardiness zones 3-10 |
Daylilies are ones that you can handle in autumn or spring. It won’t make much difference. The foliage will die back and be unsightly over the winter, so cutting it back to a few inches tall in late autumn is fine. It’s good to wait until after the first frost.
Peonies

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botanical name Paeonia lactiflora |
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sun requirements Full sun to partial shade |
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height 18″-30″ |
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hardiness zones 3-8 |
Peonies are susceptible to diseases and insect infestation. As a result, it is best to prune them in late fall. This minimizes the impact of foliar diseases and pests and promotes blooming the next year.
Once the foliage of your peonies turns yellow, cut the entire plant back to the ground. Remove all foliage from the area, and don’t compost it. Spread a thick layer of mulch on top to protect the crown of the peony.
Rosette Form Salvia

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botanical name Salvia candidissima, S. argentea, S. pratensis |
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sun requirements Full sun |
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height 2’-4’ |
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hardiness zones 3-9 |
Depending on your climate, salvia typically has its second bloom near the end of summer or early fall. By this time, it’s probably looking leggy and won’t make an attractive addition to the winter landscape.
This only applies to salvia species that form a rosette of foliage at the ground. Prune the top growth down, leaving the rosette to overwinter. For other types, wait until next season, as the old foliage will protect new growth during cold periods.
Phlox

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botanical name Phlox spp. |
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sun requirements Full sun to partial shade |
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height 6”-4’ |
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hardiness zones 3-9 |
Cut back your phlox after a frost knocks back the foliage. Cut it down to the ground and cover it with a thick layer of mulch. The primary reason for this is to prevent powdery mildew. Phlox is highly susceptible to powdery mildew and thrives in times of high moisture.
Yarrow

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botanical name Achillea millefolium |
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sun requirements Full sun |
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height 2’-3’ |
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hardiness zones 3-9 |
Yarrow performs best when you do some pruning in the fall. Wait until after the plant shows signs of decline from the cold. This may be early winter in warmer climates. This helps promote strong roots and more robust growth in next season.
Cut the plant down to the basal leaves at the ground level. Leave those basal leaves to protect the crown of the yarrow throughout the winter.
Dahlias

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botanical name Dahlia spp. |
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sun requirements Full sun |
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height Up to 6’ |
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hardiness zones 7-10 |
Dahlias are only winter hardy to Zone 7. In colder climates, you can grow them as annuals or dig them up in fall to store for the winter. You should cut them back in Zones 8 and 9 in the fall.
Wait until frost has killed the foliage, and cut the stems of your dahlias down to just a couple of inches tall. Then, cover them with mulch to prevent rainwater from getting in and causing crown rot.
Wait Until Spring
Late winter to early spring are the ideal pruning times for many plants. This keeps the plant from producing new growth until the weather warms up. The exceptions are those plants that bloom on old wood and fruit trees that set buds before the winter.
Pruning these plants often means cutting off the buds. Cut them immediately after they bloom, or harvest their fruit. This gives them ample time to recover and set new buds before the following year.
Azaleas and Rhododendrons

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botanical name Rhododendron spp. |
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sun requirements Partial shade |
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height Up to 20’ |
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hardiness zones 4-9 |
Rhododendrons, which include azaleas, are spring bloomers. They also bloom on old wood. If you prune in the fall or winter, you will severely reduce the plant’s flowering ability that year.
Wait a week or two after the shrub finishes flowering. Then, you can prune as much or as little as you like. These shrubs tolerate rejuvenation or hard pruning. By pruning immediately after the bloom, the plant will have plenty of time to grow and mature growth to set buds on for the following spring.
Lilacs

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botanical name Syringa vulgaris |
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sun requirements Full sun to partial shade |
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height 8’-16’ |
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hardiness zones 3-8 |
Lilacs are spring bloomers, and they flower on old wood. That means the ideal time to trim them is immediately after flowering. This gives them optimal time to grow and set buds for next year.
The exception to this is if you need to rejuvenate the plant by hard pruning it. This should happen in late winter or early spring. You will see a reduction in flowering that year, but that’s part of the rejuvenation process.
Dogwood

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botanical name Cornus florida, C. kousa |
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sun requirements Full sun to partial shade |
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height Up to 40’ |
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hardiness zones 5-9 |
Dogwood trees don’t require yearly pruning, but some pruning does help to keep them looking their best. The ideal time to prune your dogwood is late winter to early spring while it is dormant. Just clean things up; don’t overdo it. Dogwoods don’t appreciate severe cutting.
Forsythia

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botanical name Forsythia spp. |
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sun requirements Full sun to partial shade |
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height 3’-10’ |
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hardiness zones 5-8 |
Forsythia is just a joyful spring bloomer. It sets buds in the fall, though, so pruning in autumn will deprive you of that beautiful floral display. You can technically prune any time before midsummer.
The ideal time to prune forsythia is immediately after its spring bloom. This gives your shrub the optimal amount of time to produce new growth and set healthy buds for next year.
Loropetalum

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botanical name Loropetalum chinense |
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sun requirements Full sun to partial shade |
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height 6′-8′ |
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hardiness zones 7-9 |
Loropetalum, also known as Chinese fringe flower, sets buds in the late summer and early fall. If you cut it back after this, you’re not going to see many flowers in the spring. For this reason, hold off until after that bloom to do your pruning.
Loropetalum is very tolerant of hard pruning. If you need to control the size of your shrub or do some significant shaping, you can do so in late winter. This will mean no flowers for the year, though. It’s better to wait until after the blooms fall.
Russian Sage

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botanical name Salvia yangii |
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sun requirements Full sun |
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height 2’-4′ |
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hardiness zones 4-9 |
Russian sage blooms on new wood, so prune it as soon as it begins regrowing when the weather warms. Trim it down to about one foot tall and watch it burst into action. Trim it back again after the first flush for more flowers throughout the season.
Rudbeckia

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botanical name Rudbeckia spp. |
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sun requirements Full sun |
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height Up to 8’ |
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hardiness zones 3-9 |
This one is optional because you can prune after it flowers in the fall, in the spring, or not at all. The argument for not pruning rudbeckia in the fall is to leave the seed heads for overwintering birds. You’ll also get some new plants from the deal; it self-sows decently.
If you choose to, cut your dead rudbeckia foliage down to the ground in early spring. It’s more cosmetic than necessity.
Sedum

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botanical name Sedum spp. |
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sun requirements Full sun |
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height 2”-36” |
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hardiness zones 3-9 |
This is an instance where the rule is not hard and fast. It’s ok to prune sedums after they’re knocked down by frost in late autumn or early winter. Spring pruning has its benefits, though.
Cut the dead foliage back to the ground before your sedum starts to come back in the spring. Once it begins to grow, lightly prune or pinch it back to encourage branching and denser growth.
Globe Thistle

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botanical name Echinops spp. |
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sun requirements Full sun to partial shade |
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height 2’-5’ |
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hardiness zones 3-9 |
The ideal time to prune globe thistle is in late winter or early spring before it begins to grow. Cut the foliage off down to the ground. You can do this in the autumn, as well, but birds use these seed heads as food over the winter. It’s better for wildlife to leave these for spring.
Roses

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botanical name Rosa spp. |
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sun requirements Full sun to partial shade |
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height 1-20′ |
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hardiness zones Varies, most zones 5-8 |
You probably noticed that I’ve mentioned this plant on both lists, which doesn’t make much sense. However, there are different opinions on roses, and since they are such popular plants, I decided to argue for both sides.
It’s probably best to wait until spring to prune in colder climates. If you decide to hold off, wait until threats of frost have passed. You should still clean up any dead or damaged branches in the autumn.
Weigela

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botanical name Weigela spp. |
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sun requirements Full sun to partial shade |
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height 6’-10’ |
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hardiness zones 4-8 |
Weigela shrubs bloom in the spring and set their buds soon after they finish. If you prune these in the fall, you’ll cut off a lot, if not all, of the flowers. Wait for your weigela to finish blooming, and then cut it back immediately. This will allow your lovely shrub to set plenty of buds for next year.
Japanese Camellias

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botanical name Camellia japonica |
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sun requirements Partial shade |
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height 6’-13’ |
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hardiness zones 7-9 |
I’m referring specifically to Japanese camellias here, but you can also prune C. sasanqua and C. sinensis in the spring. The main reason to avoid pruning your Japanese Camellias in the autumn is because they bloom in the winter. If you trim them in the autumn, you’ll cut off those wonderful winter blooms!
Sasanqua camellias are primarily fall bloomers, with some overlapping into early winter. It’s best to wait until they all finish blooming to prune them. Camellias set buds near the end of the summer and bloom on new wood.
Deciduous Magnolia

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botanical name Magnolia x soulangeana, M. stellata, M. macrophylla, M. sieboldii, M. accuminata, M. loebneri |
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sun requirements Full sun to partial shade |
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height Varies widely |
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hardiness zones Varies by species, generally 3-9 |
I saved this one for last because you shouldn’t generally prune these trees. Magnolia trees bloom on old wood and have a naturally pleasing and well-balanced growth habit.
Pruning them should be relegated to controlling their size, though they vary widely in this area. Planting the right size tree for your space will be the most attractive plant. Trimming off the lower branches will do the trick if you prefer a tree shape over the naturally shrubby shape of most of these.
The only other reason to prune a deciduous magnolia (any magnolia truly), is to remove dead or damaged branches. Magnolias tend to heal slowly, and be rather sensitive. Do any pruning in late winter or early spring, just before the tree breaks dormancy.