How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Peruvian Lily

Alstroemeria is a beautiful Peruvian lily in many colors, sure to delight and please the most uptight acquaintances. It can be grown in the ground or in containers, and it multiplies over time.

That means you can have unlimited lilies! Simply divide them in spring, and propagate. With fairly easy care, members of the Alstroemeria genus are a lovely sight in the garden and are fun to grow.

Though you could buy this popular cut flower as a bouquet, why not grow a passel or pretties yourself and have ready-made gifts for your nearest and dearest all year long?​

What is a Peruvian Lilies?

The Alstroemeria lily was named after the Swedish botanist Clas Alströmer, who brought the seeds to Europe. Recognized by its upside-down, twisty leaves, this feature is how the Peruvian lily flower came to be associated with the rollercoaster ride that is friendship: the ups and downs, twists and turns that the most devoted friends stick through.

Native Area

The Peruvian lily is also called lily of the Incas, and in some countries Inca lilies. They are native to South America, particularly the cool, mountainous regions of Chile and Argentina. These herbaceous perennials thrive in various climates within their native range, from the coastal regions of Chile to the Andes mountains.

In Chile, species tend to prefer a Mediterranean climate with wet winters and dry summers, while in Argentina, they are often found in more tropical and humid conditions. This geographical diversity contributes to the plant’s adaptability and its ability to grow in gardens worldwide, provided the conditions mimic its native habitat.

Characteristics

Peruvian lily features clusters of trumpet-shaped flowers. You’ll find the striped petals in colors ranging from white to red, pink, orange to lavender. What they lack in fragrance they make up for in stunning eye candy.​

The leaves are lance-shaped and grow in an unusual twisted pattern, with the underside facing upward. It is valued for its beauty and resilience. It blooms from late spring to early fall and can last up to two weeks as a cut flower.

Varieties

There are more than 120 species and 190 cultivars of Peruvian lily, many of which are crosses of the winter-growing Chile variety and the summer-growing Brazil type. This is what allows the plant to flower for most of the year. Here are a few popular types:

• ‘Apollo’: A summer bloomer with white flowers, a yellow throat, and green edges.
• ‘Orange Glory’: Summer blooming tall variety with red flowers that have fiery orange tips.
• ‘Yellow Friendship’: Yellow flowers with peachy tips bloom in summer on this tall cultivar; some petals have a greenish tint.
• ‘Indian Summer’: A popular variety with orange and yellow petals with burgundy to black streaks.

Planting

To plant Peruvian lilies, dig a hole about 6-8 inches deep and wide, allowing enough space for the roots to spread. Space multiple plants about 12-24 inches apart to provide room for growth. Mix some compost into the soil to improve fertility and drainage. Place the rhizomes (root structures) horizontally in the hole, ensuring they are four to six inches below the soil surface. Cover them gently with soil, tamp down lightly, and water thoroughly.

Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged, and mulch around the plants to retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Grow Peruvian lilies in containers with a well-draining potting mix rich in organic matter.

How to Grow

The care this plant requires is well worth the effort when you see those gorgeous blooms opening to the sun. The look on your best friend’s face when you present this gift will be well worth taking a picture of so you can make fun of the expression in the future.

Light

If your soil temperatures soar above 70°F (21°C), pick a spot where it will be protected from the sun in the afternoon. Otherwise, go for a full-sun area (dappled sun can also be a tolerable choice). This gives you the best chance for blooms.

Water

At first planting, keep the rhizomes well-watered until the first shoots appear. After that, a one-inch deep watering every week until well established should be fine. Too much water can create conditions where fungal diseases can proliferate.

Therefore, keep the soil somewhat moist, but do not let your lilies get waterlogged. If there has been regular rainfall, additional water may not be necessary. Container-grown plants may need more water than in-ground plantings.

Soil

Start with the ground cleared of all debris. A soil of 70% organic material and 30% perlite is a good idea if you have heavy clay soil. However, this might not be necessary as long as the soil provides enough air and excellent drainage.

​To protect against summer’s heat, add a three-inch deep ring of mulch, either bark or compost, around the base without placing it directly on the plant. In areas where winters are cold, apply a couple of inches of mulch in fall for root protection through frosts.

Temperature

Autumn and spring are usually the best times for planting, before the soil gets hot. In early spring when the temperatures are changing, a greenhouse can be handy for avoiding scorched leaves. You can ventilate and heat as needed whenever humidity rises above 85%.​ You can dig up your tubers and overwinter them in regions with constant subfreezing winter, or simply grow them in containers and move them indoors.

Fertilizer

When your plants have reached two years of age, it’s a good time to supplement the soil with nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium during the growing season. Pay close attention to your soil’s pH levels; higher than seven will result in iron and manganese deficiencies, and a yellowing of leaves.

For both in-ground and container lilies, feed with a high-potassium liquid fertilizer every week when blooming begins. Cease at the end of the bloom period, and do not apply during dormancy, in late fall through winter.

Maintenance​

It’s a good idea to trim the stems of dead flowers and save the plant’s energy for making new ones. Otherwise, not much pruning is needed. Good thing, too, so I can save my energy for gazing at these glorious blooms from the comfort of my porch swing.

Of course, if any damaged or diseased leaves crop up, remove them as needed.

Propagation

You can propagate using two methods. By seed is one way. Another way is to dig up the Peruvian lily bulbs and divide the rhizomes in fall. Cut the plants six inches above ground about ten days before you intend to dig them up. A one-year-old plant may yield up to 15 rhizomes, a two-year-old up to 25.

In the fall, you can overwinter your tubers if you’d like. Having a space to store roots in freezing weather is great for gardeners outside the plant’s hardiness range. Put the tubers in a box with coconut coir or peat moss and leave them in a cool, dry place. Then, replant the tubers in spring.

Common Problems

While the Peruvian lily is a fairly hardy plant, there are a few common issues. Here are the ones you want to keep an eye out for.

Growing Problems

If you live in an area with very cold winters, and you don’t protect or remove tubers in fall, your alstroemerias may die. Those tubers can be stored over winter, or covered with a thick layer of mulch for winter protection.

Overwatering is the number one way to put your Peruvian lilies in peril. This invites pests and diseases which can weaken or kill your flowers. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. In rainy weather, don’t add extra irrigation.

Pests

Most of the diseases your Peruvian lilies contract can be carried by thrips and aphids, so do your best to control these populations to prevent infection. Both pests feed on the sap of plants, causing overall weakening of the plant and yellowing and/or curled leaves. Insecticidal soap can be used to treat these pests.

​Spider mites may attack your lilies, and drink the plant’s juices as well. If you see masses of tiny mites on leaves or notice tightly woven webs, wipe these off with a damp cloth, and follow up with a misting of insecticidal soap or neem oil.

Slugs and snails may also feed on leaves when the soil remains moist for too long. In an especially rainy spring or summer, there’s no getting away from them. You can hand pick them off your plants at night or trap them with slug bait or a beer trap.

Diseases

Pythium root rot causes wilting, stunted growth, and weak stems that collapse. This occurs when the soil is heavy and moist for long periods. A clean bed with one part composted pine bark mixed with four parts of soil is a good start. Allowing the soil to dry out may also give the plant a chance to recover. Remove and dispose of any affected plants.

Rhizoctonia root rot causes wilted leaves and dried stems that don’t respond to watering. Double-check that the soil is well-draining. You may need to improve this by working some compost into the top ten inches. Get rid of the infected ones and concentrate on keeping the healthy ones healthy.​

Botrytis blight is better known as gray mold. It shows up during the warmer, damp days as furry, gray-brown spores. They transmit on wet plants, so keep space between them for air. Also, direct irrigation away from stems and below the leaves and flowers, and remove any debris or damaged plants.​

Diseases like tomato spotted wilt virus and mosaic virus cause patterns of lines and spots on foliage, and they have no treatment. Not only will you have to destroy the affected plants, you’d be wise to disinfect your gardening tools with a diluted bleach solution as well.​

Frequently Asked Questions