9 Ways to Get Your Paperwhites to Rebloom

Our paperwhites ushered in the holidays in the loveliest ways, and now it’s time for post-bloom care. With some experimenting, you may be able to get blooms in future seasons. Join gardening expert Katherine Rowe on caring for paperwhites to enjoy a potential rebloom.

Close-up of paperwhites reblooming with clusters of delicate white flowers, star-shaped petals, and small golden centers.

Contents

Paperwhites bring a bouquet of cheer with their crisp white blooms, and varieties with a light, sweet fragrance are especially delightful. For many of us, they grace the indoor display over the holidays, brightening up chilly winter days. The daffodil relatives are hardy in USDA zones 8-11 (sometimes 7), with a natural late-winter bloom cycle.

Indoors, we force them to bloom earlier by providing warm temperatures and moisture to initiate budding. They grow easily in a variety of mediums, from a pebbled tray of water to a bulb vase to pots and garden beds.

Now that blooms are fading, the curious gardener may want to experiment with preserving the bulbs for future flowering. Since forcing bulbs to bloom takes a lot of energy, a rebloom may be a year or two in the future, if at all. The bulbs need to rebuild their energy stores. While not guaranteed, your paperwhites may go on to grow and flower with the proper post-bloom care.

With a few techniques to maximize energy storage for strong bulbs after flowering, the chances of reblooming improve. The process is easy to try if you’re not quite ready to part with your bulbs.

Remove Spent Blooms

Close-up of a cluster of small, star-shaped flowers with snowy white petals, central rounded crowns, and yellow centers, with some flowers wilted, dry, and brown.
Deadheading boosts energy for next season’s growth.

Spring-flowering bulbs like paperwhites, daffodils, and tulips benefit from removing faded blooms. If you’re hoping to extend their vigor, this is especially helpful for the bulb.

Deadheading prevents the plant from producing seeds. The energy that would go into seed production goes instead into food storage for the bulb. If flowers are wilting and dropping petals, it’s time to cut off the flower head. If the stem is green and strong, leave it in place to continue photosynthesizing. More likely, it will be thin and floppy; cut it off at the base if so.

Keep The Leaves

Close-up of Narcissus papyraceus bulbs with papery brown skins, sprouting slender, vertical green leaves in an oblong decorative pot shaped like a log.
Leave leaves until they fade for healthy bulb growth.

After flowering, leaves die back for summer dormancy. While Narcissus’ strappy leaves aren’t as attractive without their ornamental flowers, it’s important to leave them in place as they continue to absorb sunlight and nutrients for the bulb. Removing leaves too early means hindering paperwhite development and potentially preventing reblooming.

Remove leaves when they turn yellow or brown and easily separate from the base. Yellow leaves mean they’re no longer working to support growth, and the bulb is entering its rest phase. For paperwhites in soil, this can be anytime from April to July. Those in water may fade within about eight weeks of blooming.

Move Them Outside

Close-up of female hands holding Narcissus bulbs with rounded, layered shapes and dry, papery brown outer skins.
Plant them in spring for a year-round garden boost.

Moving paperwhites outside in spring is an easy way to nurture bulbs as they prepare for dormancy. In warm climates, plant them directly in the ground to establish for year-round outdoor growing. In cool climates, if your potted specimen still shows green leaves after the threat of frost passes, move pots outside until leaves turn yellow and dormancy ensues. You can also maintain them as a houseplant until foliage dies back, keeping the soil evenly moist as usual.

Narcissus grow best in full sun to partial shade, including dappled light under a tree canopy. Sunlight promotes the best flowering and health. Well-draining soils are essential, especially during the dormancy period. Prolonged periods of soggy conditions make them susceptible to bulb and root rot. Evenly moist soils are best during the growing season, while drier conditions in the warm season promote perennializing.

For in-ground plantings, add a layer of compost and mulch to help regulate soil temperatures, retain moisture, and suppress weeds. Unlike others in their genus, paperwhites do not require exposure to cold temperatures to initiate flowering and reblooming. They freeze without protection below zone 8.

Treating Potted Paperwhites

A woman in a white blouse and gray apron tends to a collection of brown-husked bulbs planted in a vintage soup pot, producing upright, narrow green leaves and stems topped with clusters of tiny white tubular flowers featuring double petals and yellow centers.
Separate healthy baby bulbettes for independent growth next season.

For specimens in pots, you’ll need to store them during summer dormancy and overwinter them indoors as protection from winter conditions. After their dormancy period in a dark, dry space, the paperwhites can move inside to (fingers crossed!) grow and rebloom.

Opt to keep them in their containers for dormancy or lift them from the soil for dry storage. To keep them in pots, move them to a dim, sheltered space like a garage or basement. Stop watering, as roots don’t uptake water or nutrients as the bulb rests.

To store them without soil, remove paperwhites from the pot post-bloom as foliage fades. Gently shake off and rinse away excess dirt. Toss any with soft spots or moldy areas. Select only solid, firm bulbs to save – these stand the best chance of regrowth in already challenging conditions. Prepare for storage with curing (see below).

Healthy bulbs may develop small baby bulbettes. If the babies are ready to grow independently, they’ll separate easily from the mother with a tug. If not, leave them attached to continue growing. Dry and plant the group together after dormancy.

Those Forced in Water

Close-up of a glass pot filled with pebbles and water, containing smooth, rounded bulbs growing indoors and producing vibrant green, strap-like leaves.
Remove them from the vase to cure for storage

If your paperwhites rebloomed in a pebble tray or bulb vase, let the foliage naturally fade. Remove them from the vessel so they can air dry thoroughly for summer storage. Follow the guidelines below for easily curing and storing them.

Cure and Store

Close-up of a wicker basket filled with papery brown-skinned bulbs featuring a compact, layered structure and pointed tops, ready for sprouting.
Ensure proper airflow while curing to keep them healthy.

The bulbs need curing to remove excess moisture so they won’t weaken, become moldy, or rot in storage. To dry or “cure” paperwhites: 

  • Lay them in a protected, ventilated area out of direct sunlight. A raised wire screen works well for maximum airflow.
  • Leave them for a few days.
  • They’re dry enough to store when the outer skin is papery.

Tuck the dry bulbs in for the season in a paper or mesh bag (like a citrus produce bag) or open crate. Keep them in the same dry, sheltered area, and inspect them periodically. Hang bagged bulbs to increase air circulation. Ideal storage temperatures are in the 60s (~16°C).

Repot

A gardener adds fresh soil to a large clay pot containing newly transplanted brown bulbs with young, upright, thin green leaves.
Ensure good drainage to avoid soggy soil and rot.

In October, bring the Narcissus out of storage for repotting in a well-draining potting mix. They benefit from the nutrients of the soil, which are lacking if they grow solely in water. Paperwhites are the showiest in a group and don’t mind crowding in a pot.

Water the bulbs and place the pot in a sunny spot indoors, like a south-facing window. Keep the potting mix moist but not soggy to prevent rot. In a few weeks, new leaves will emerge.

Fertilize

Top view of a potted plant with vertical green stems and smooth, linear leaves, adorned with clusters of white flowers featuring a cup-shaped corona and pale yellow centers.
Apply organic fertilizer to boost growth after dormancy.

A fall application for previously forced bulbs helps build energy reserves (sugars and carbohydrates). For potted bulbs, an application in the fall helps them uptake nutrients and store energy for the growing season. Where hardy, in-ground plantings in healthy soils with fresh compost may not need additional fertilizer in subsequent years.

Apply a teaspoon of low-grade organic fertilizer (like a 5-10-5) at repotting after summer dormancy. Avoid getting fertilizer on the foliage, and give a cleansing rinse after applying. A single application of a granular promotes root and foliar growth and supports flowering.

Repeat

Tall, thin green stems showcase white, starry flowers with pointed petals and contrasting soft yellow centers.
Surprise yourself with blooms by repeating the growth cycle.

Expect to be surprised and delighted if the paperwhites rebloom. Those in the ground in warm zones perennialize for yearly blooms, while those originating from forced situations may take another season or two to flower. But you may get flowers the first year and for a few years by repeating this process.

If leaves develop but do not bloom, repeat the cycle of letting leaves die back and then storing the bulbs until the following fall. Or, get some fresh bulbs and begin a new adventure!

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