Planting Spring Bulbs: When Is It Too Late?
It's important to monitor the calendar and extended forecast to ensure you get your bulbs planted at the right time. Join organic farmer Jenna Rich to discuss planting spring bulbs and when it may be too late.
Contents
Are you consistently late? Do you sometimes find brown bags of hyacinth and tulip bulbs meant for the spring garden that you misplaced or simply forgot about? Life’s busyness can derail our plans, but when it comes to spring bulbs, the situation isn’t as bad as you might think; they’re pretty forgiving.
If you’re like me, you ordered loads of spring bulbs in the spring when seed companies were having flash sales, then promptly forgot about them. Then, a few weeks ago, they showed up at your doorstep, and you were reminded that you must plant them now. If you’re feeling overwhelmed, you’re not alone.
We’ll discuss what to do if it’s too late to plant your spring-flowering bulbs and what to do if it is. Let’s get into it.
When Should I Plant Spring Bulbs?
As with much gardening, when you plant certain crops depends on your region and what you’re growing. It may also depend on particular weather patterns and worldwide climate occurrences.
For example, according to the National Ocean Service, El Niño and La Niña occur every two to seven years, last nine to 12 months, and significantly affect our weather. These patterns can cause warm weeks in late fall, summer rainy periods, and extreme winter snowfall, which may affect when and how we plant our gardens. Pay attention to these notices to plan your gardens accordingly and avoid unfortunate surprises.
You should plant spring-flowering bulbs about six to eight weeks before your soil experiences a hard frost, but avoid planting too late in the fall. Like planting garlic, there is some leeway based on local weather patterns, so don’t stress too much. Below are some guidelines based on growing zone, bulb type, and bloom time.
Planting By Climate/Zone
If you aren’t sure what growing zone you live in, review the USDA’s Plant Hardiness Zone Map, updated in 2023. Your goal is to plant spring-blooming bulbs so they have enough time to send out feeder roots at the base, which will anchor it in place through the winter, but late enough that they’ll receive the signal that it’s time to go dormant.
If you put them in the ground too soon, they will continue their growth, emerge above ground, and become vulnerable to winter kill, which they may not survive. The soil and nights should be cooler than summer soils; otherwise, the bulbs won’t get the signal that winter is coming. This guide should help you plan:
| Zone | Recommended Planting Time |
| 1 and 2 | Early September |
| 3 and 4 | Mid-to-late September |
| 4 and 5 | Late September to early October |
| 6 | Mid-to-late October |
| 7 and 8 | Early November |
| 9 to 12 | December or January – chilling bulbs for eight to ten weeks is recommended and may be required for success. |
There are plenty of spring-flowering bulbs you can still plant now!
Planting By Bulb Type
Various species should be planted at different times of the year, considering your growing zone.
Tulips
America’s sweetheart should be planted in November when common fungal diseases like Fusarium aren’t a threat. There may even be snow on the ground when you plant your tulips, and that’s perfectly fine.
Alliums
Plant these bulbs in September or October, once you’ve experienced a frost but before the ground freezes solid. For best success, plant them at a depth of two and a half times the height. There are hundreds of flowering allium species to choose from. Try ‘Summer Drummer’ for a statement piece or ‘Ivory Queen’ for a unique off-white option. Pro tip: Plant them near your flowering bulbs to help deter pests and critters.
Garlic
Are you wondering when to plant garlic in your zone? There’s still plenty of time, even here in New Hampshire zone 5. Most years, my region experiences increased temperatures in the fall after several weeks of freezing nighttime temperatures.
I always prepare my garlic beds during the cold weeks, so I’m ready to plant immediately after the fall heat wave passes. Then I feel confident enough to tuck my garlic in for the winter and add mulch without fear of it prematurely sprouting, becoming vulnerable to winter shock.
Lilies
Plant lilies four to six weeks before the last anticipated fall frost. Keep your eye on this because each zone has an estimated last frost, but this can change yearly, and you don’t want to plant too early. Plant them in full sun to partial shade areas.
Crocosmia
Plant crocosmia corms in either spring or fall. They often take a few years to establish and will bloom when they’re ready. For best success, plant corms in the spring after the risk of frost has passed or in the fall in zones 6 to 9. They spread naturally and hardly need any attention to thrive.
Daffodils
Plant these earlier than your tulips to avoid drying out, which sometimes happens around September. They’ll often send out roots earlier than this, so take your cue to plant from them, watching for dryness signals. Luckily, if daffodils don’t bloom or have a less-than-spectacular showing the first year, they tend to recover well and should be fine in subsequent years.
Crocus
Plant these guys when they arrive in the mail or when you see your local nurseries and hardware stores selling them. Late summer or early fall is the best time to plant. If they bloom while in storage, you won’t have good results. If you purchase them at a store and they don’t show any signs of sprouting or drying up, plant them until you can no longer work the soil. Crocus are hardy in zones 3 to 8.
Hyacinths
Plant hyacinth bulbs from late September to November once the soil has cooled down and about a month before your first frost. Plant these large bulbs in well-draining soil in a sunny spot up to eight inches deep. This gorgeous bloomer will multiply underground and last about four years. Propagate the bulbs in future falls to expand your plot. Pro tip: Wear gloves when handling bulbs, as they may irritate your skin.
Mulch in cold areas to protect the bulbs. In areas that receive freezing temperatures but less snow, mulch heavily. Snow insulates, so in the regions that receive heavy snow, contrary to what you may think, you can mulch less.
Planting By Estimated Bloom Time
Fall-planted bulbs need about ten weeks of cold before blooming in the spring. Temperatures during this period should be between 35 and 45°F (2 and 7°C). This cold period is crucial to their success because it is when much internal development occurs.
Bulbs that flower in early spring should typically be planted in late summer or early fall. Those that bloom in late spring are planted in mid-to-late fall. Late spring to summer bloomers are sown in late fall. This varies slightly based on type and region.
Don’t stress too much about this factor. The current temperature in your region, the last frost date, and the bulb type are the most important things to consider. Happy planting!
Key Takeaways
- Plant according to zone, type, and bloom time.
- Take cues from the bulbs.
- Spring-flowering bulbs are very forgiving! Even if you’re late, put them in the ground, try again next year, chill them for the winter, or pot them indoors. Even if year one isn’t great, they’ll likely recover.
- Mulch bulbs if you live in cold regions, and mulch heavily where heavy snow doesn’t occur.
- Plant bulbs in well-draining soil and practice proper planting depths based on bulb size.
- Don’t overcrowd them.
Frequently Asked Questions
If I suspect it’s too late to plant spring bulbs, should I plant them anyway or wait until the following year?
Bulbs that are planted late may result in stunted, smaller, or fewer blooms in the spring or none at all. However, if your bulbs are still moist and plump, they still have a chance. If you can still dig a hole in the ground, I recommend giving it a shot. In Zones 1 to 4, load the area up with mulch to allow some extra time for the bulbs to set roots.
Alternative options include planting them in pots and keeping them in a cooler area of your home, like a basement or root cellar. If this isn’t feasible, you can also chill them to mimic the outdoor winter and try planting them in the spring. Leaving them unplanted with the hopes of planting them in the spring may result in less than great results.
Why didn’t my bulbs sprout?
There is a myriad of things that could have gone wrong, but here are a few things to consider for the reason your bulbs didn’t germinate:
- Poor quality bulbs. Avoid this by purchasing bulbs from reputable sources and storing them properly.
- Critters. Hungry squirrels, voles, moles, or mice may have dug them up as a snack. Spread natural deterrents, hang strong-smelling soap bars, or plant alliums nearby to deter them.
- Overcrowded bulbs. If your bulbs compete for the same resources, there may not be enough to go around, resulting in a lack of sprouting. This often happens with perennial bulbs that have been in the same spot for many years. Dig some up and move them to a new location if you suspect this is the reason for the lack of sprouting.
- Fluctuations in weather and temperatures. Plants perform best with consistency, especially during dormancy. Mulch your bulbs over the winter to help the soil retain a consistent temperature and protect the bulbs from extremes.
- Soggy soil. Plant your bulbs in well-draining parts of your property. Compost the area each year to help the soil structure. Since bulbs are in the ground for many months, standing water can cause rot, resulting in poor or lack of sprouting. Soggy soil is a significant concern for fall-planted bulbs.
- Too close to the soil surface. If the bulbs aren’t planted at the proper depth, they may not receive the signal to go dormant and then wake up in the spring. Plant bulbs at least twice the height, similar to sowing seeds in cell trays, equaling at least two inches. This rule should keep you from planting them too shallow or deep.
What type of fertilizer do bulbs require?
When planting new bulbs in the fall, toss a fertilizer high in phosphorous inside the hole to assist the bulbs in setting down roots. You don’t want anything high in nitrogen as that will encourage above-ground growth, which you don’t want to see until the spring.
If you plan to leave bulbs in the ground year after year, they will need additional fertilizer to maintain healthy growth. Each fall, apply a well-balanced granular feed to the bulb area, work it into the soil, water it, and cover it with mulch. If you see a fertilizer option specifying it’s for bulb use, grab it. Use the same feed in the spring before flowering occurs. Cease all fertilization when flowering begins. Follow the instructions on the packaging for the best results.
Bulbs planted with the intent of digging them up may not need fertilization. Remember, bulbs are a powerhouse of stored energy and food and should contain everything they need to bloom in year one.
