How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Munstead Lavender

‘Munstead’ lavender is grown as both an ornamental and an edible. As an ornamental, it produces beautiful spires of delicate purple flowers that attract beneficial insects. Due to its high essential oil content, it also acts as a natural pest and deer deterrent. The greenish-gray foliage is beautiful and fragrant as well. 

As an edible, it adds a delicious floral flavor with hints of mint and rosemary. This makes it perfect for baking and making homemade teas. Not to mention, essential oils have calming properties when used in aromatherapy. This stress-reducing scent can be found in many soaps, lotions, and perfumes. 

Lavender has been studied for its calming effects on the nervous system. The fragrance of lavender has been shown to improve symptoms of anxiety, such as restlessness and disturbed sleep. This is true for both inhaled lavender fragrance and orally administered lavender oil. This, in part, is why lavender has gained such popularity in aromatherapy. 

Native Area

‘Munstead’ lavender is native to the Mediterranean basin, which includes areas in Spain, France, Italy, and Croatia. It is also known by another common name, English lavender, though it is not native to England.

The name Munstead comes from Munstead Woods in England. Other common names include garden lavender, common lavender, and narrow-leafed lavender. The species name, angustifolia, is Latin for “narrow leaf.”  

Characteristics

‘Munstead’ lavender has woody branches that are covered in narrow, gray-green leaves. Spires of delicate purple flowers shoot up from the plant in the summer. Lavender has a very distinct smell that is floral, sweet, and slightly herbaceous.

Most of the oils are contained in the flowers, but the foliage contains some scent as well. During the long winter months, I often run my hands through the foliage and it smells like summer. 

Propagation

‘Munstead’ lavender can be propagated easily by seed. If you already have established plants then you can even save your seeds! It can also be propagated by cuttings, but this method is technical and a bit more involved. 

Seeds 

‘Munstead’ lavender is easy to start from seed and can be started either indoors or outside. It’s important, however, to get the timing right. When starting seeds inside, be sure to start them 10-12 weeks before your average last frost date.

Starting seeds indoors is recommended for lavender since it can take anywhere from 15-90 days for seeds to germinate! Starting them indoors ensures their ideal growing conditions are being met and you’ll have a higher success rate with germination. Cold stratify them in a plastic bag in moist media in the refrigerator for one to two months. Otherwise, you will have to wait until four to six weeks before your average last frost date to sow seeds outdoors.

These seeds are tiny and will need to be surface-sown since they require light to germinate. Scatter them lightly across the surface of the soil and gently press them into the soil with your hand. Next, you’ll want to mist them with a spray bottle, keeping the soil surface evenly moist until they germinate. Using a heat mat and humidity dome to create a consistently warm and moist environment will also help speed germination. Once the seeds sprout, remove the humidity dome and heat mat. 

Cuttings

You can also propagate lavender by taking cuttings. The best time of year to do this is mid to late summer during the active growing season. If cuttings are taken too late in the fall while the plant is already going into winter dormancy, they likely will not root. Take cuttings with clean, sharp pruning sheers and cut a four to six-inch section of a non-flowering side shoot. Remove foliage from the lower third of the cutting. 

Then, take the cutting and dip it into rooting hormone powder or gel. This step is optional but will increase your chances of success. Plant into a small pot filled with potting soil and keep well watered until you see new growth.

Although mature lavender plants prefer a full sun location, it’s best to keep these cuttings in partial shade and out of extreme heat while they become established. After a few weeks, you can move your cuttings into their final location, either directly in the ground or in another container.  

Planting

Now that you’ve propagated your lavender, either by seed or by cuttings, it’s time to plant it! Lavender can be planted any time during the spring through the fall. If you live in an area with extreme heat in the summer, get your plants established in the fall so they have time to adjust before the high temperatures roll in. 

Preparation

To prepare your seedlings for transplant you will want to put them through a period of hardening off. Hardening off seedlings involves slow and incremental exposure to outdoor temperatures for about a week before planting them into the ground. This adjustment phase prepares the seedlings for a life in the outdoor elements after spending their early days in the temperature-controlled indoors.

On the first day of hardening off, place your seedlings outside in dappled sunlight for an hour and then bring them back inside. Increase this time by an hour daily, slowly moving them into more direct sunlight. On the final day, your plants should be spending at least eight hours outdoors in direct sunlight. This process can take a week to two weeks.

Do not begin the hardening-off process until your last frost date has passed and overnight low temperatures are at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius). Eventually, in their mature state, they will be able to survive a frost, but the tender young seedlings can be damaged or killed by a sudden frost. Only begin the hardening-off process once your seedlings have at least two sets of true leaves. 

Transplanting

Once your seedlings have been hardened off, then you are ready to transplant them outdoors. ‘Munstead’ lavender seedlings should be planted at least 18-24 inches apart to account for their mature size.

Choose a planting site with full sun and well-draining soil. Dig a hole at least twice the width of its original pot and the same depth. Even though your lavender will eventually be drought-tolerant, you’ll want to water newly planted seedlings at least once a week until they are established. In their second year of growth, you can water them once every two weeks, or you may not need to water them at all if you receive enough regular rainfall. 

How to Grow

‘Munstead’ lavender is very easy to grow. It is low-maintenance and drought-tolerant. If you provide lavender with its ideal growing conditions, then you’ll be rewarded with its highly sought-after fragrant flowers for years to come. 

Light

Lavender prefers full sun, which means you’ll need to select a planting location that receives at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight per day. The hours of sunlight do not need to be consecutive, meaning that it may receive full sun in the morning, partial shade in the afternoon, and then full sun again in the evening. 

Since this is a perennial plant, you should also consider where the sun will be during the winter when it is at its lowest point in the sky. It is important to make sure it will not be shaded out by taller plants or other structures during the winter. 

Water

This herb is drought-tolerant and does not mind drying out between waterings. Established plants will rarely require additional water outside of natural rainfall unless there is an extreme period of drought and heat. A general rule of thumb is to make sure your plants are getting water at least once every nine days. 

Of course, this is only true for established plants. For newly transplanted seedlings, you will want to keep them evenly moist until their root system is established and they are settled into their new home. Give them an entire growing season of consistent watering before you consider them to be established. In any case, it is always best to err on the side of under-watering rather than over-watering. Too much water can lead to fungal issues and rot. 

Soil

‘Munstead’ lavender is not picky when it comes to soil conditions and will thrive in light, sandy, and lean soils. Lavender prefers alkaline soils. The most important factor here is that the soil is well-draining. As mentioned above, standing water or overly wet conditions can lead to fungal issues and rot. 

Heavy clay soils will need to be amended before planting. A combination of small, ¼ inch bark mulch and compost works well as a soil amendment for this purpose. You should also avoid planting in a low-lying area of your yard or garden where water can pool after heavy rains. For this reason, it is important to also avoid areas where a downspout drains. 

Temperature and Humidity

‘Munstead’ lavender prefers dry heat and does not do well in high humidity. High humidity conditions can cause fungal issues, especially in combination with consistently wet soil. The ideal temperature range during the growing season is between 60-85 degrees Fahrenheit (16-29 degrees Celsius). In areas that receive regular temperatures above 85 degrees in the summer, your lavender will likely benefit from afternoon shade.

You can grow lavender in USDA zones five through nine. USDA zone five can see average low temperatures of -20 degrees Fahrenheit (-29 degrees Celsius). Temperatures below -10 Fahrenheit (-23 Celsius) for prolonged periods may cause your lavender plant to struggle or even die back to the ground, though if the root system is established, it should come back in the spring. Even so, they can still sometimes die from extreme cold. 

In its native area in the Mediterranean basin, lavender enjoys full sun, dry heat, and low humidity. If you live in an area that receives regular rainfall and has higher humidity, be sure to provide your lavender with well-draining soil. You might even want to grow it in a pot so that you can move it to a sheltered area if it begins to receive too much water. 

Fertilizing

Fertilizing is optional, not optimal. ‘Munstead’ lavender is a hardy plant that almost thrives on neglect. It can survive in lean or nutrient-poor soils, meaning it does not need a lot of organic matter to survive.

For this reason, fertilizing your lavender can cause more harm than good. Too much nitrogen in the soil can cause a lot of foliage growth but will also result in a lack of flowers. 

Maintenance

Left unchecked, lavender plants can become woody. Perform regular maintenance to prevent this from happening. This is also the perfect time to provide an overall shape to your plant. The best time to prune your lavender is in the spring, just as new green growth appears. Cut back old growth to a third of its original height. Harvest flowers annually, in the summer just after the plants have finished flowering. 

Harvesting

Lavender flowers form on new growth, so regular harvesting will promote more new growth and, thus, more flowers! Harvesting flowers in the morning will ensure the highest concentration of oil in the buds.

You’ll know it’s time to harvest when at least 50% of the flowers have opened. Cut the stems as long as possible and bundle them with a rubber band. You can then hand them in a well-ventilated area to air dry. Once they have dried completely, they can be stored in an airtight container for long-term storage. 

Uses

Lavender is well known as a fragrance used in oils, perfumes, and soaps, but it can also add a delightful floral flavor to baked goods like cookies, cakes, and scones. It also adds great flavor to beverages like lavender lemonade and can be brewed into an herbal tea. My favorite homegrown herbal tea blend includes three culinary herbs: mint, chamomile, and lavender. 

You can also store dried lavender bundles in your bathroom. The steam from the shower will help release the oils, which results in a soothing homegrown aroma therapy. The dried bundles also make a great addition to dried flower arrangements. 

Common Problems

Lavender is an extremely hardy plant, though it does fall victim to a few pests and diseases. When you’re equipped with the knowledge of what to look for, you can tackle these issues head-on before they get out of hand and potentially kill your plants. We’ll discuss the most common problems here.  

Pests

Spittlebugs are white or black and orange striped. Their names come from their spit-like encasing. They leave behind a foamy white substance that looks like spit on plants. This will usually appear in the spring. Spittlebugs rarely affect the overall health of the plant, with damage being mostly cosmetic, but heavily infested stems may die back. The easiest way to get rid of spittlebugs is by hand or with a harsh blast from the hose. 

Whiteflies are soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that resemble aphids. They are tiny, white, triangular, and powdery. They tend to hide on the undersides of leaves in large clusters. Infested leaves will shrivel up and die. Reflective mulch can deter these pests along with aphids.

You can also employ companion planting techniques by interplanting your lavender with dill, alyssum, chamomile, or calendula. These flowers attract predatory insects. Ladybugs in particular, will feast on whiteflies. Removal by hand or a harsh blast from the hose will work to help knock back their populations as well. 

Diseases

Root rot is the number one disease when it comes to lavender. It occurs in overly wet or waterlogged soils. The first signs of root rot are witling, accompanied by yellow or brown leaves. The entire plant will appear droopy despite having plenty of water. This is because the rotting roots are no longer able to take up water and nutrients, which can lead to the death of your plant. 

If you remove soil from around the root zone, you may discover mushy or discolored roots that are blackened or smelly. The most common cause of this issue is over-watering. If your lavender is in a pot, you can repot it into dry soil which might be able to save it if enough healthy white roots remain. The easiest way to avoid this issue is to provide your plants with well-draining soil. That way, even in instances of heavy rain, the soil will be able to dry out instead of creating a hospitable environment for this fungus. 

Septoria leaf spot, or Septoria lavandulae, is a fungus that thrives in high-humidity environments. This species specifically attacks lavender plants. The disease will appear as tiny gray spots with purple or brown margins. The spots expand, eventually taking over and killing the leaves. 

Over time the plant can lose most of its foliage and become stunted. To prevent this fungus from taking hold, avoid wetting the foliage while watering your plants. This can be accomplished easily by using drip irrigation or bottom watering. If you live in an area that receives a lot of rain, make sure that there is plenty of airflow between your plants and prune away any diseased leaves.

Frequently Asked Questions