How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Lakota Squash

The Lakota squash is a delicious winter squash that can add to any fall menu. Once mature, the nutty fine-grained flesh is popular for baking, and the seeds are a tasty snack. 

This pear-shaped squash has a beautiful orange rind with green streaks, which makes it a delightful fall decoration. This vine can be huge, with each requiring a bare minimum of four to six feet of space in the garden. 

Despite it being a form of winter squash, you will need to harvest before the first fall frost hits your garden. And you’ll want to; they’re tasty squash! But it has a definite history – one that doesn’t actually involve the Lakota tribe. Let’s talk about this lovely squash hybrid and how it came to be!

Plant Overview

What is Lakota Squash?

The Lakota squash, Cucurbita maxima ‘Lakota’, is a winter squash with thick orange skin and green streaks. It is pear-shaped, closely resembling the hubbard squash. It’s a close relative of the pumpkin, as it shares the same species if not the same shape or size.

Native Area

The history of the Lakota squash is a fascinating one. It is not a true Native American heirloom, as proclaimed by many seed distributors! Instead, it’s a hybrid that took over a century to create.

The original seed is documented as having been grown at Fort Atkinson in Nebraska in the 1820s. They had acquired them from unnamed tribal members who lived throughout the Missouri Valley region. Later, the fort traded some of their seeds to Fort Robinson so that they could also grow the squash.

A civilian employee of Fort Robinson, Alfred Lossi, took some seeds and shared them with his sister, Martha Newman. She grew them in her garden alongside other squash varieties, saved the seeds, and planted them again the next year.

Eventually, the Newman family moved to Alliance, Nebraska. The seeds moved with them. While the original produce was described as elongated and cylindrical with green and orange streaking, the variety she produced alongside her hubbard squash began to change. They more resembled the teardrop shape with streaked coloring.

Alice Graham was given seeds from this cultivar by Mrs Newman and she donated some to the University of Nebraska. Only one of the 200 that the university planted produced fruit. Six generations later, they developed a specific inbred cultivar, referred to as NE IS-88-12. 

Because of the seed’s history, they referenced one of the tribes that traditionally lived in the Missouri Valley and named it Lakota. He clearly stated in his report that it was an honorary name for the squash. Lakota Sioux people had no hand in its production.

Characteristics

This vine takes up a decent amount of space in the garden, and vines can spread up 10-20 feet. The green leaves are large and round, and the flowers are a vibrant yellow. When ready to harvest, the fine-grained squash weighs approximately four to eight pounds.

When planted from seed, germination takes about a week and 10-15 days for seedlings to emerge. In late summer, you will see a burst of growth in vines, leaves, and flowers. Squash will start growing once it’s pollinated and will mature in mid to late fall. 

This winter squash is valued for its sweet nutty flesh. The seeds can be harvested and roasted, or even pressed for oil. Like all other squashes, the flowers are edible. Harvest the male blossoms and leave the female flowers to produce the fruit.  

Planting

Lakota squash needs a sunny location with well-draining, nutrient-rich soil. Begin by loosening the soil and incorporating compost or aged manure to provide essential nutrients. Sow the seeds directly in the ground after the last frost when the soil temperature reaches at least 65°F (18°C).

Sow the seeds about one inch deep in small mounds, spacing them three to six feet apart to allow room for sprawling vines. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Once the plants are established, mulch around them to retain moisture and suppress weeds.

As the squash develops, support the vines if necessary.

How to Grow

This requires similar care as other winter squash varieties. It is easy to grow and is a beautiful addition to the garden. 

Light

This vine requires full sun, with a minimum of six hours of sunlight and up to eight to ten hours of direct sunlight. The more sunlight it gets, the better flower formation, and the more flowers, the more fruit will form on the vines. It thrives in warm USDA growing zones 8-10 but will grow in zones 2-11. 

Water

During the germination and seedlings stage, the soil requires frequent watering and must be consistently moist but not soggy. Once established, this plant is somewhat drought-tolerant. Water when the top two to three inches of the soil feels dry. Focus on watering the base where the roots are concentrated. Avoid watering the leaves, vines, flowers, or produce.

The ideal time of day to water is in the morning. Provide a deep watering with the top one inch of the soil saturated once a week. Soaker hoses can make the process easy. High humidity is not ideal and increases the spread of pests and diseases. 

Soil

This vine has shallow roots that thrive in rich, loamy, well-draining soil. To create ideal soil conditions, loosen the top six to twelve inches of soil and incorporate fertile organic matter. Soil should absorb moisture but not retain a puddle of water, which can cause the roots to rot. 

Mulch can be spread around the base to minimize evaporation on hot summer days. The pH range is not a big concern, but the ideal range is between 5.5-7.0. 

Temperature

Winter frost can be damaging, so it’s best to wait to plant in your garden until the last frost has passed in your region. If you have a long winter, consider starting your seeds indoors. The minimum soil temperature is 60°F (16°C), with ideal soil temperatures ranging from 70-85°F (21-29°C). Its flowers may be damaged in extreme heat, leading to slow production. 

Fertilizing

Focus on fertilizing one week after true leaves have developed and one week after blossoms bloom. Then apply a light dose of fertilizer once a month. An organic fertilizer is ideal, applied about four inches from the base and worked in. Liquid fertilizers can be applied once a month, whereas slow-release granules can be applied once or twice a season. Be wary of nitrogen-heavy fertilizers, which can stimulate leaf growth and take the focus away from the maturity of your fruit. 

Maintenance

Wait to prune until you identify which vines are growing fruit. Then, selectively prune off vines that are not growing fruit, redirecting energy towards production. Prune when the soil is dry, as this will minimize diseases. Be gentle when pruning. Vines can easily snap. Keep pruning to a minimum, as the large, round leaves provide essential sustenance for squash production.

If you are crunched for space, try vertical growing options such as using a trellis. You will want to apply a five to eight feet support system as soon as you start planting. Consider utilizing individual slings on your trellis to provide additional support for the heavy fruit. 

Propagation

Seed propagation is the predominant method of cultivation. If you are planting outside directly into the soil, sow two to four seeds one inch deep. Space each planting three to six feet apart.  

If you have a short growing season, start your plants two to four weeks indoors. Keep in mind that seedlings are delicate and do not like their roots to be bothered, so be gentle when transplanting! Another option is to grow your winter squash in a five to ten-gallon pot for container gardening.  

Some have had success in propagating through cuttings. If you are feeling adventurous, encourage an individual vine to root by anchoring it to the soil with a stake, cover with soil, and cut from the parent plant once roots form.  

Harvesting

You have spent time and effort caring for this winter squash, and it’s a joy when it’s ready to harvest! Let’s go over the basics of harvesting and storing so that you can enjoy your delightfully sweet and nutty squash throughout the winter.

The Lakota squash matures within 85-100 days. It can take as long as 140 days to reach maturity on the vine in some regions. But how do you know if it’s mature and ready to harvest? Press a fingernail into the hard skin. If it leaves a dent or mark in the skin or exposes flesh, it is not ready. You can also knock on the hard shell; you want a hollow sound and no soft spots. The process is similar to how one harvests butternut squash, although, with Lakota squash, you’ll want that lovely variegated coloring.

Harvest before the first frost sets in. Using a knife, cut the stem two to three inches above the squash, but do not carry it by the stem. Let the winter squash cure in the sun for one to two weeks or in a sunny location inside. This will harden the skin and allow it to store longer. 

Storage

For long-term storage, you will want to locate the cured Lakota squash in a cool, dark, dry area. They will last for six months, and you will want to check for any soft spots, rot, or decay. 

You can also cook and freeze or can for storage options. The squash will last three months in the freezer, whereas canned squash will last one to two years. Dehydrated squash can last up to five years when stored properly.

Common Problems

You may need to pollinate by hand. Male blossoms bloom early and are located on thinner stems. Female blossoms will have a small fruit bulge located below the flower head. Take pollen from male flowers and swab it into female flowers with a cotton swab or paintbrush.

Growing problems

Wilting leaves can be deceiving. When squash leaves wilt during hot weather, it is their vine adaptation to conserve water. The leaves should spring back up during the cooler evening temperatures. If the leaves are continually limp and wilting, this is an indication that they need a deep drink of water and/or require an application of fertilizer. 

Pests

Other problems may include pests like the squash vine borer, squash bug, cucumber beetle, or aphids.  The Lakota squash can be resistant to the damaging effect of the vine borer since it tends to put roots down where the vines lie. Floating row covers can minimize these pests from invading your garden. Pruning away damaged areas of the vine, and injecting it with Bt can help as well.

Hand pick squash bugs and their eggs. Remove cucumber beetles by hand as well.

Diseases

Common winter squash diseases like bacterial wilt, mosaic virus, or powdery mildew may find their way into your garden. Moist and humid conditions can add to this. To reduce this possibility, you will want your soil to dry between waterings and do not water foliage, and you can place squash on top of wood or plastic to lift it off the soil.

Mosaic virus will spread to other plants, so remove any damaged plants that show mottling. Throw them away rather than composting them as the virus will survive in compost.

Frequently Asked Questions