How to Plant, Grow, and Care For ‘Jeana’ Garden Phlox

Garden phlox brightens the border with a profusion of domed clusters with starry blooms. In cultivation since the 1600s, the historic perennials are a beloved staple and form a showy backdrop among other summertime blooms and grasses. Most species are North American natives, particularly to the eastern United States, including Phlox paniculata. Phlox, from the Greek for “flame,” boasts an eye-catching floral display.

‘Jeana’ tall garden phlox is an award-winning cultivar that boasts months of blooming and superior cold hardiness. Trusses of lightly fragrant lavender-pink blooms are a magnet for butterflies and moths (their obligate pollinators), as well as hummingbirds. ‘Jeana’ brims with ecological and ornamental value; it’s just the multifaceted, hardworking, lovely perennial we need in our collections.

What is ‘Jeana’ Garden Phlox?

Phlox paniculata is the most popular of all the Phlox species. Tall garden phlox, or flowering phlox, has bundles of showy flowers atop upright stems. From pale pink to crimson, color-rich selections abound. Whether old-fashioned pass-along plants or newer cultivars, P. paniculata earns its spot in the border.

The exceptionally sturdy and floriferous ‘Jeana’ selection is the 2024 Perennial Plant of the Year. The Perennial Plant Association awards those that grow across various climates, need little additional maintenance, and have good pest and disease resistance and landscape value.

Taking top place in Mt. Cuba Center’s three-year phlox trials, ‘Jeana’ shows exceptional powdery mildew resistance, a long flowering time with a spectacular display, and a big pollinator draw. Of all the varieties in the trial, ‘Jeana’ attracted the most butterflies, and Eastern Tiger Swallowtail, in particular. They also attract hummingbirds with their tubular, nectar-rich blooms.

‘Jeana’ has a tall, sturdy habit that supports the big show of deep lavender-pink florets. Domed clusters top stiff stems that reach five feet tall. While each floret is smaller than other varieties, the number per bunch and extended flowering more than make up for their size.

In addition to its ornament, ‘Jeana’ offers ecological value. The nectar-rich blossoms are a favorite among butterflies and other pollinators. As a native cultivar from a wildly growing selection, it’s a strong performer in optimal growing conditions.

‘Jeana’ is the backbone of borders, cottage gardens, pollinator themes, and naturalistic arrangements. Pair it with other natives and their cultivars like amsonia, monarda, switchgrass, Joe Pye weed, salvia, and hardy geranium. These are a match for pollinator support and a long season of visual interest.

Characteristics

The clump-forming perennial spreads up to four feet and has tall, five-foot stems. Showy trusses of pips (individual flowers) are smaller than other varieties at half an inch, but the six-inch flowerheads last into early fall. The floral show hits peak bloom in mid to late July and extends into October.

‘Jeana’ produces few seeds and won’t reseed in the landscape like older garden phlox varieties. The lack of seed production means a long-lasting floral display, with less energy directed to seed production and more into continual flowering.

With excellent disease resistance to powdery mildew, ‘Jeana’s’ bright green, elliptical, and pointed leaves remain attractive all season.

Native Area

Phlox paniculata is native to the United States from the Midwest to the mid-Atlantic and southward. It grows naturally along stream banks, riparian areas, and in moist low woodlands and meadows.

‘Jeana’ is a selection of a native wild phlox. Gardener Jeana Prewitt discovered it growing wildly in a large colony along the Harpeth River near Nashville, Tennessee. While others in the group showed powdery mildew, this strong selection was mildew-free.

Planting

Fall and spring are the best times to plant the perennials. If there is adequate moisture for strong root systems to develop, plant them at any time in areas with mild summers. Avoid planting phlox in stressful conditions, such as high heat, drought, or freezing soil. The cool, moist conditions of spring and fall present the least stress on new plantings. They’ll be able to develop roots before hot summers or cold winters, respectively.

Good air circulation is essential for garden phlox and sets the foundation for health. Allow proper spacing at two to three feet apart to plan for the mature spread.

At planting, dig a hole two to three times as deep and wide as the size of the root ball. Loosen any tightly wound, pot-bound roots so they can grow outward. Position crowns an inch-and-a-half below the soil surface. Water deeply after planting to settle the roots and soil.

Transplanting 

‘Jeana’ garden phlox benefits from division every three to four years to improve overall vigor. The crown becomes less vigorous over time, and dividing fosters the new growth that pops up on the perimeter. It lessens overcrowding and competition for resources while opening up air flow around stems. 

If it’s time to divide or move your phlox, spring is optimal, with fall as the next best. Aim to divide as new shoots emerge, but before flowering. Make divisions that capture three to five stems with roots attached. Water after transplanting, and in dry conditions, water until frost for strong specimens heading into winter.

How to Grow

This top-performing cultivar is relatively carefree and reliable among the species. With a sunny location and regular moisture, it needs little else to flourish. Garden phlox can be finicky, but durable selections in the right situation lessen their maintenance requirements.

Light

Situate ‘Jeana’ garden phlox in full sun to partial shade, with at least four to six hours of sunlight daily. They do best in full sun in cool climates. Provide afternoon shade protection for those with intense summer sun. In the South, morning sun exposure with dappled light in the mid-afternoon is ideal. 

In more shade, stems may not be as strong or grow as vigorously. Pests and diseases are more likely to occur with weaker growth in too much shade.

Water

‘Jeana’ garden phlox relies on regular moisture and doesn’t withstand drought. One inch of water per week keeps the perennial blooming and also the most healthy, with good resistance to pests and diseases. Provide supplemental irrigation during dry spells to minimize physiological stress. Dry soils lead to weakness and susceptibility to pests like spider mites.

While they enjoy consistent moisture, overwatering leads to fungal problems like root rot and powdery mildew. When feasible, water at the base of the plant to minimize damp situations and the spread of spores through water splashing on leaves. If watering overhead, do so early in the day so leaves have a chance to dry in the sun and breeze.

Soil

Ordinary soils with average moisture and good drainage are ideal. ‘Jeana’ adapts to a variety of compositions but prefers organically rich, moist soils. A neutral or slightly acidic soil pH is ideal.

Amend with compost at planting to improve nutrition, aeration, moisture retention, and drainage (especially beneficial for clay or sandy textures). Topdress with a layer each spring for a boost to established perennials.

Temperature and Humidity

Tall garden phlox performs best in climates with mild summers that aren’t intensely hot or humid. Topdress with a layer of mulch in late spring to regulate soil temperatures. In summer, it helps cool the root zone. In winter, mulch helps insulate the roots and protect against frost heaving.

Fertilizing

In organic soils, Phlox paniculata doesn’t need additional fertilizer. To add enrichment at planting, a slow-release, balanced granular (like 8-8-8) gradually releases minerals and nutrients for about two months.

Maintenance

‘Jeana’ garden phlox needs only average maintenance, like mulching and fall cleanup. Cut stems to the ground after fall’s first heavy frosts. Remove all debris from the area to prevent powdery mildew spores from overwintering and affecting the next season of growth.

‘Jeana’ is usually mildew-free, but if you’ve had problems in the past, thin stems in the spring when they reach six inches tall to open the crown. Energy into the remaining stems boosts flowering.

The cultivar is sterile, so deadheading isn’t necessary to prevent reseeding or promote flowering. But it can tidy the plant so that the new blooms shine.

Propagation

The best ways to propagate ‘Jeana’ garden phlox are through cuttings and division. Take cuttings from fresh growth early in the season. When dividing the primary plant every few years to restore vigor, transplant the new selections to expand the colony.

Cuttings

Cutting and rooting fresh, pliable stems is a viable way to propagate the favorite cultivar. Roots may take several weeks to develop. For softwood propagation:

• Cut a four- to six-inch piece of a healthy green stem.
• Remove the foliage from the bottom ⅔ of the cutting (keeping at least two leaves intact). Keep cuttings moist until ready to pot.
• Optional: moisten the lower stem end and generously coat it with rooting hormone. Tap off any excess rooting powder.
• Stick the cutting in at least two inches of moist, well-draining potting mix, vermiculite, or perlite.
• Place the pot or tray in a bright, warm location, out of direct sunlight.
• Mist/water to keep the soil evenly moist and to ensure humidity.
• When the cutting resists a gentle tug, roots are in place and ready for repotting.
• Plant the cuttings in four-inch pots and move them outside in mild conditions. As they grow into sturdy seedlings, transplant them into their new garden areas. New plants will be tender.

Division

To divide the mother plant for transplanting and propagation, dig it in spring or fall. Water the day before to help roots and stems stay water-filled for easy digging. With a spade or digging fork, dig a wide berth around the main crown or entire clump to lift it out of the soil. Capture as many roots as possible, keeping all intact.

With a sharp knife or spade, separate the clump into sections, starting with fresh growth on the perimeter. Each segment should have three to five viable stems and roots attached (these become the new transplants). If the crown is dense and woody, lacking vigor, and showing less growth and flowering, compost the old portion and foster the new offspring. Plant the new divisions in your desired garden spots, and keep them well-watered until established. 

Common Problems

The first step in growing a disease-free tall phlox is to choose a resistant cultivar like ‘Jeana.’ These are more carefree growers and free of most pests and diseases. The best prevention is ensuring proper cultural conditions through even watering, sunlight, and healthy soils. 

Beneficial predatory insects like ladybugs, lacewings, and predatory mites help control pest populations. Grow a diversity of blooms for a well-rounded system. For phlox, spider mites are sometimes pesky invaders, and powdery mildew and root rot can be fungal problems.

Spider Mites

Spider mites are sap-sucking insects that feed on tissues and gather on the undersides of leaves. You may see webbing, leaf yellowing, and stippling on leaf surfaces. Leaves may become stiff and curl or prematurely drop, and flowers can discolor.

Spider mites occur in hot, dry, dusty conditions. They flock to plants experiencing drought stress. Keep phlox well-watered with even moisture to avoid dry spells and drastic moisture fluctuations.

If you detect spider mites, spray the leaves and stems with a strong stream of water early in the day to deter and knock insects off the plants. Prune away affected parts, and dispose of the debris rather than adding it to the compost pile, which can harbor and spread the insects.

A simple horticultural soap or oil, like neem, rids the plant of severe cases. Be sure to follow label directions, as these treatments affect all insects, including pollinators. Time of day is essential in application, with before or after sunset being the best.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew is one of the most common fungal diseases of phlox, especially in humid environments. The pathogen Erysiphe presents as a grayish-white substance on leaves, stems, and buds. Leaves may turn yellow, distort, and drop during severe infections. The fungus spreads quickly but is treatable with early detection.

Powdery mildew spores spread by traveling on the wind, contacting other plants or tools, or splashing up from the soil via raindrops and irrigation. The spores grow on the leaves and spread to the stems, depleting the plant’s energy and nutrition.

If powdery mildew is isolated to leaves and you can easily pick them, remove the leaves and dispose of them in a garbage bag or burn pile. For more extensive outbreaks, horticultural oils or soaps are early treatments.

Proper watering protocols and air circulation defend against powdery mildew, as does ‘Jeana’s’ natural resistance. Water plants at their base to avoid splashing foliage. Avoid overfertilizing, as too much nitrogen leads to weak, leafy growth susceptible to disease.

Root Rot

Fungal root rot impacts feeder roots, causing decay and preventing them from uptaking water and nutrients to support growth. Leaves appear drought-stressed and turn yellow as they wilt.

If caught early on or with minor damage, plants can recover. Reduce the irrigation frequency to allow the soil time to drain. Proper cultural management, especially not overwatering, is the best control. Ensure soils are well-draining.