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How to Plant, Grow, and Care For ‘Hidcote’ Lavender

Elegant and aromatic, there are few replacements for lavender in the garden or the kitchen. Pollinators and people love the scent of this charming Mediterranean native. Join gardening expert Melissa Strauss to discuss how to grow and care for 'Hidcote' lavender.

Bushy, low-growing hidcote lavender plant bears fragrant, velvety purple flowers that stand above narrow, muted green leaves.

Contents

Lavender is one of the most popular plants to grow, not only for its ornamental value. This evergreen herb has applications in skincare, medicine, and culinary arts, too. You will rarely enter a candle shop that doesn’t have a product in some expression of this scent. 

The clean, herbaceous, and woody fragrance of lavender flowers and foliage is distinctive. They are used in everything from bouquets to lotions to teas to desserts. ‘Hidcote’ lavender is particularly distinctive for its compact nature, soft foliage, and aromatic nature that it brings to outdoor living spaces. It’s perfect for pollinator gardens and can survive in rugged conditions. 

Here is everything you need to know to grow delectable ‘Hidcote’ lavender!

‘Hidcote’ Lavender Overview

Short, woody stems hold clusters of small, rich purple flowers that contrast with the pale green leaves below, on a blurred green background.
Plant Type Evergreen semi-woody shrub
Family Lamiaceae
Genus Lavandula
Species Angustifolia ‘Hidcote’
Native Area Mediterranean region
Exposure Full sun
Height 1’-2’
Watering Requirements Low
Pests & Diseases Aphids, whiteflies, root and crown rot, and shab disease
Maintenance Low
Soil Type Sandy, loamy, well-drained, slightly alkaline
Hardiness Zone 5-9

What Is ‘Hidcote’ Lavender?

Rows of dark purple blooms line slender green stalks above aromatic, lance-shaped silver foliage, close-up.
Its compact size fits perfectly along paths or in pots.

‘Hidcote’ lavender is a compact English variety known for its delicate foliage and large, vibrant flower spikes. Its bushy growth habit forms a neat mound of foliage and flowers. Cultivated in the early 1900s by famous horticulturist Gertrude Jekyll, this variety is famously beautiful and aromatic. It also won the Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society.

Characteristics

Vivid purple blossoms form tight whorls along green stems against the background of green plants growing in a flowerbed.
It is known for its rich color and classic floral perfume.

Lavender is an evergreen semi-shrub that produces tall spikes of heavily scented, purple blossoms. ‘Hidcote’ is an English lavender cultivar that is often used in culinary preparations. The flowers have a sweeter fragrance than the French varieties, which are more commonly used for distilling essential oils

English lavender tends to be the most cold and heat tolerant of all, and has distinctly dark purple flowers. These types have that true lavender fragrance that most people associate with the plant. ‘Hidcote’ is a late spring and summer bloomer with a long bloom time. 

Native Area

Spikes of densely packed violet flowers emerge from a cushion of silvery-green, narrow foliage.
It thrives where the sun blazes and the breezes keep things dry.

Wild lavender is native to the Mediterranean region, and particularly the area bordering the Mediterranean Sea. You will find it in places with hot summers and cool to mild winters, but typically not in humid climates. ‘Hidcote’ is a hybrid from England.

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Planting

If you live in a cool climate, spring is the ideal time to plant your lavender. This will give it plenty of time to get roots laid down before the heat of summer, which can be stressful. In places with hot summers, wait until early fall to plant your lavender. The cooler weather helps reduce stress and allows the plant to establish roots before winter. 

Transplanting

A woman in yellow gloves transplants a lavender seedling from a black plastic pot with a large root ball and a bunch of vertical stems covered in gray-green narrow foliage into soil in a garden.
The roots like a roomy hole with no standing water.

Choose a spot with plenty of sun and good drainage. ‘Hidcote’ lavender doesn’t tolerate wet feet. Dig your hole twice the size of the root ball to loosen the soil all the way around. Backfill so that the top of the root ball sits at the same level as the surrounding earth. Then backfill around the root ball and water it in well.

Growing From Seed

Close-up of young seedlings with slender, pale green stems and pairs of cotyledons surrounding narrow, true leaves in a seed starting tray.
The seeds take awhile to sprout, but are still worth growing.

Growing lavender from seeds is somewhat complicated and requires some patience. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t try, just prepare to wait a while. There is also some prep work to do. The seeds are tiny, and they need light to germinate. They germinate best with cold stratification. 

If you sow them outdoors, do so in the fall so that the weather naturally cold-stratifies them. Just don’t expect to have many of them stay put unless you keep them protected from inclement weather. Because they need light to germinate, you surface sow them, and they are so small that they wash away easily. 

I recommend cold stratifying by placing them in the refrigerator for three to six weeks. Then, surface sow them in trays filled with moist, well-draining seed starting mix. Keep them moist by misting them with a spray bottle, as a stream of water is likely to dislodge them. 

Place your trays in a warm, brightly lit spot, but keep them out of direct sun until they sprout. Germination can take up to two months, so if you want to plant them in spring, make sure you get an early start.

How to Grow

Once established, lavender is an easy plant to care for. It prefers a bit of neglect, and most issues arise from taking better care of it than it requires. 

Light

Compact mounds of silvery-green foliage topped with dense, deep purple flower spikes sway gently in the sun.
Morning sun keeps it blooming without stretching for light.

Plenty of sunlight will keep your lavender happy and blooming. In cool climates, you can plant it in a spot with full sun all day. This will keep the growth compact and bushy, as it won’t need to reach for more light. 

In warmer climates with hot summers, try to find a spot that gets lots of sun early in the day, but some shade in the afternoon. This is especially important in places with hot, humid summers.

Water

A woman in white gloves holding a green watering can waters young flowering lavender plants in a flowerbed in a sunny garden.
Too much water early can spoil a good start.

You should water your newly planted lavender regularly for the first few weeks to get some roots established. Every two to three days during this time is ideal. Water deeply when you do, but don’t water every day, or you’re likely to end up with root rot. 

Once established, lavender is drought-tolerant, and you only need to water it in times of prolonged drought. They need water every one to two weeks depending on the soil and climate. For container grown lavender, water about once every week to ten days. 

Soil

Close-up of newly planted young seedlings with short stems covered with narrow silvery-green leaves, in loose light brown soil.
Clay soils can be a dealbreaker without serious drainage help.

In its native range, lavender is adapted to loamysandygravelly, and typically poor soil. It also likes alkaline soil, so adding too much organic matter will lower the pH, which your plant won’t like. 

If you have poor soil, you can help it out with some compost or garden soil, but don’t add too much, or you’ll end up with soil that’s more acidic. You’re better off with poor soil than soil that is acidic and full of nutrients. Lavender is efficient at using nutrients. 

Most importantly, it needs soil that drains properly. Clay and other dense soil types are not great for this plant. For container plants, create a loose blend of potting mix and coarse sand or perlite to improve the drainage. 

Temperature and Humidity

Neatly trimmed bushes display uniform purple flower spikes that tower above compact, silver-toned leaves.
It needs more breeze than steam to stay looking good.

Lavender loves the sun, but it would prefer to avoid extreme heat. Extreme fluctuations are stressful for this plant, so keep it away from drafts if you’re growing it indoors. ‘Hidcote’ is quite cold tolerant, tolerating sub-zero temperatures while retaining its foliage. 

The ideal temperature for your ‘Hidcote’ lavender to grow the most is between 70 and 85°F (21-29°C). It will continue to grow well down to 60°F (16°C) but tends to slow down when the temperature drops. 

Lavender doesn’t appreciate humidity as it is prone to fungal infection. In areas with hot, humid summers, this one might be more of a challenge. Make sure to keep the center thinned out and give it plenty of air circulation. 

Fertilizing

Bright sunlight highlights the deep purple flower heads perched above cool-toned, soft-textured leaves.
Too much fertilizer means more leaves, fewer flowers.

You can, and typically should, skip fertilizer for your lavender altogether. Too much nitrogen, specifically, will lead to a lot of green growth and poor flowering ability. A single application of a bloom boosting fertilizer in the spring is ok, but beyond that, avoid fertilizing. 

Maintenance

A woman with a pruner cuts the thin stems of a plant with tiny purple flowers forming spikes in a garden.
Late summer trimming helps maintain a neat, dense shape.

Your ‘Hidcote’ lavender will require some maintenance when it comes to pruning. It’s necessary to keep your plants looking compact and dense. Otherwise, you may end up with woody, leggy lavender that rarely blooms. If you want to maintain an attractive plant, pruning is necessary.

In spring, before new growth appears, trim off any dead or damaged foliage, but don’t do much else; allow it to get growing. Deadhead your lavender throughout the blooming period to encourage more and stronger flowering. 

In late summer, give your plant an all over pruning, once it finishes flowering. The objective in pruning is to keep things full and lush, and avoid long woody stems. Snip all the branches a few inches above the woody part of the stems. Avoid cutting into the woody portions, as this can sometimes lead to stunted growth. 

Propagation

Close-up of young cuttings with silvery narrow foliage in a plastic seed starting tray, in a sunny flowerbed among flowering plants.
Taking cuttings in spring gives the best chance for success.

Growing from seeds is tricky, and this isn’t the type of plant you can divide easily. That leaves propagation with cuttings as the most effective method. It’s much easier than the alternatives, including air layering, though that is preferable to division. 

The time to propagate is in spring and early summer when there is plenty of new, green growth to choose from. Semi-hardwood cuttings may work, but softwood is best. Cut stems of about four inches using a sharp, clean tool. 

Fill your nursery pots with a loose, well-draining potting mix. You can start with regular potting soil, but you should add in some material to improve drainage and bring the pH up a bit. Coarse sand or perlite works well. Moisten the potting mix and set aside for a minute. 

To prepare your cuttings, strip off all but a few leaves at the top. Optionally, dip the cut end in rooting hormone to expedite the process. Then, insert your cutting with the cut end down about an inch or two into the soil and firm it around the base. 

Place your cuttings in a spot with bright, indirect light and a consistent temperature. While they are rooting, keep the soil moist, but not soggy. It will take about a month, maybe six weeks, for them to root. When you see new growth, give a light tug and see if there are roots anchoring it in the soil. This is when it’s ok to transplant. 

Common Problems

Lavender doesn’t have an extraordinary number of issues, but there are a few pests and some fungal issues that can crop up. 

Pests

Close-up of a ladybug crawling on lavender stems infested with tiny black aphids.
A garden full of nectar plants invites helpful predators nearby.

As a member of the mint family, this aromatic plant is unappealing to most insects. Pollinators do enjoy the flowers, but the scent will repel most pests. Many gardeners use it as a form of pest control in their gardens because of this. 

There are a few pests that will tolerate the aroma in order to access lavender’s sweet sap. Aphids and whiteflies are the most common and problematic. Both are sap sucking nuisance insects. 

The best way to control pests in the garden is with predatory insects like the larvae of ladybugs and lacewings. Attract these insects with nectar plants, and they will lay eggs where their young will find food. 

If you need a quicker solution, neem oil is effective against most garden pests. Make sure to use it late in the day so that it dries before the pollinators return. If possible, don’t use it while the plant is blooming. 

Diseases

Close-up of a wilted, rotted plant with brown drooping stems and leaves in a black plastic pot hanging on a balcony.
Avoid overwatering to keep fungal troubles far away.

Gardeners encounter a variety of fungal diseases when growing lavender, which is why it’s important to avoid overwatering. The most common issues are root and crown rot, which are caused by several different types of fungi. Too much moisture and not enough air circulation are usually the causes. 

In humid climates, there’s a greater chance of fungal issues. It’s especially important to avoid overwatering in this type of environment. If you experience a period of frequent and heavy rain, you may also end up with fungal problems

If you live in a humid climate, thin out the interior of your plants and make sure they get adequate air circulation. Avoid overhead watering if possible, as this can leave your foliage wet, leading to fungus. 

Some fungal pathogens are curable. You can use a copper-based fungicide or neem oil to treat them. Removal of the affected foliage is important. If you’re dealing with root or crown rot, chances are you will lose the plant. If it’s not progressed too far, you can trim off the affected roots and foliage and repot in fresh potting mix. Treat with neem oil as well. 

Frequently Asked Questions

What can you plant lavender with?

Lavender makes a nice addition to the herb garden and will happily grow alongside other herbs that prefer plenty of sun and well-drained soil.

Is lavender safe for pets?

Yes, lavender plants are safe for both animals and humans to ingest.

How do you overwinter lavender?

Move potted plants to a sheltered location. You can leave them outdoors, but protect them from the elements. Reduce watering for the winter as they will be in a dormant state.

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