How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Mint

The perennial herbs we know as mint are members of the family Lamiaceae. You’ll find many aromatic herbs within this family, and they all have a few things in common.

The two main characteristics of Lamiaceae are that the stems are square or four-sided, their flowers are two-lipped and open-mouthed, and the leaves are arranged opposite each other. Catnip, bee balm, lemon balm, hyssop, salvia, and thyme are just a few of the species that belong to the mint family.

But within the mint family, the common mint herb comes from the genus Mentha. There are several species within this family, allowing you to fill an entire herb garden with different plants.

So, how do we grow these delightful herbs in our own gardens? And what are some ways we can enjoy mint in our drinks and dishes? Read on to learn more about types of mint and how to grow them in your garden! 

What is Mint?

Mint species are all located within the genus Mentha. This genus contains 25 species, 15 hybrids, and hundreds of varieties and cultivars.

The most famous mint species you’re likely acquainted with are spearmint (Mentha spicata) and peppermint (Mentha x piperita). Peppermint is a hybrid cross between spearmint and watermint (Mentha aquatica). Because the mints easily cross with each other, sometimes you’ll see mint plants sold in plant nurseries just listed as “common mint”.  

Members of the Mentha genus have been thought to originate in different places. Most sources point to the Mediterranean, Africa, and Asia. Mints have been used for various culinary and medicinal purposes for thousands of years.

One of the first documents mentioning mint was an ancient Egyptian document known as the Ebers Papyrus, dating to around 1550 BCE (though the date has been disputed). This document described how mint was used to aid digestion, freshen breath, stop vomiting, and treat flatulence.

Another source that’s even older than the Ebers Papyrus, dated around 1880 BCE, was attributed to King Hammurabi of Babylon who described that mint should be used for the treatment of gastrointestinal issues. 

How Mint Got Its Name

The name given to the mint genus (Mentha) is thought to have been coined by the Greek philosopher Theophrastus as an allusion to a figure named Minthe. According to Greek mythology, Minthe (or Menthe) was Pluto’s girlfriend.

Pluto’s wife, Persephone, was overcome by jealousy. She was said to have changed Minthe into a plain, low-growing plant that was easy for people to step on. Legend says that Pluto was unable to turn Minthe back into a nymph. So instead, he gave her a powerful scent when her leaves and stems were crushed so that she could “sweeten the air.”  

Mint Oil in America

In the 1700s, mint oil advertisements began to surface in America. Eventually, American farmers from New Jersey and New York began their own production of peppermint and spearmint. This led to an established market for mint in the United States by the 1800s. Due to heavy disease issues, mint oil production in the U.S. shifted from the Midwest to the Pacific Northwest in the 1920s.  

During the American Civil War in the mid-nineteenth century, medical and pharmacy textbooks referenced mint preparations. These preparations included oils, tinctures, spirits, water, and lozenges with some form of peppermint or spearmint being utilized.  

Today, there are two types of mint that are produced commercially on a large scale throughout the world—spearmint and peppermint. The United States, India, and China are the world’s largest producers of mint, with the U.S. leading in peppermint oil production.

Planting

Planting mint in your garden requires some strategic planning due to its aggressive growth habits. It is an invasive species in most regions of North America.

Mint spreads rapidly through its root system, which can quickly overrun garden beds if left unchecked. To manage this, it’s best to plant mint in containers. You can either keep the containers above ground or bury pots below the soil to contain the roots. This method prevents the mint from taking over other plants while still allowing you to enjoy its fragrant leaves.

Plant mint into the garden after your last expected frost. Mint can tolerate some frost, but prefers moderate conditions. Division of existing plants should take place in either the fall or spring before lots of new growth appears.  

Make sure the container or pot has adequate drainage and place it in a sunny spot, watering regularly to keep the soil moist but not waterlogged.

How to Grow

In case its aggressive spread wasn’t enough of a hint, mint is not a difficult plant to grow. Planting in the right spot and managing spread will take care of most of its needs.

Light 

Mint prefers full sun (at least six hours of direct sunlight) or partial shade (four to six hours of direct sunlight per day) to grow well. Once established, mint will outcompete most weeds and plants around it.  

Soil 

Mint prefers moist, rich, well-draining soils. This means the soil should be evenly moist most of the time, but not soggy.

Well-draining soils are typically light soils with high amounts of sand or silt. Heavier soils (or soils with large amounts of clay) can be fixed by additions of organic matter (compost or well-rotted manure) to improve drainage. Growing mint in a pot will also help promote drainage. Overall, most mint species prefer a loamy soil. 

Water

Mint loves moisture. A steady supply of water (one to two inches per week) throughout the growing season is important but watch for signs of disease. Water the soil beneath the plant leaves rather than over the top of the leaves to reduce the prevalence of fungal diseases.  

Temperature 

Mints are quite hardy, so they can be grown almost anywhere. They will tolerate winter temperatures down to -20°F (-29°C). However, it’s best to research which species of mint you want to grow before determining whether it will survive in your garden over the winter or not.

Of the most popular mint species, peppermint is hardy down to USDA Zone 2 and spearmint is hardy down to USDA Zone 4. 

Fertilizing 

One application of a well-balanced, slow-release fertilizer at the beginning of the growing season may be all you need for your mint plant. Another alternative is to mix compost into the soil when planting your mint, but overall fertility is not much of an issue for Mentha species. In fact, overapplication of fertilizer and overwatering can lead to disease or reduced mint oil production. You could also deal with too much robust growth that overruns the garden.

Maintenance

Mulching can help reduce water stress, as it reduces water evaporation from the soil surface. As long as the plants receive ample moisture, mulching may not be necessary.

Mints are vigorous growers. It is important to clip back your mint periodically during the growing season to induce branching and growth of leaves from your mint plants, especially because you’ll likely want to harvest leaves rather than flowers.  

In fact, your mints will grow best if they are cut back once or twice a season at least. If you allow your mint plant to flower, the oil content in the leaves drops. To limit flowering, keep stems clipped back and harvest regularly.  

Harvesting Mint 

Begin harvesting any time after the plant reaches about four inches in height or more. The best time to harvest mint leaves is in the late morning on a sunny day, which is when flavor should be at its peak.

Cut the stems down to about one inch in height using a sharp knife or clippers. The youngest leaves will have the most flavor.  

Preservation 

After harvesting, wash mint leaves thoroughly and pat dry with a paper towel. You can store the leaves in your refrigerator for fresh use for up to one week, freeze mint leaves in water in ice cube trays, or dry the leaves to use later.  

You can dry mint leaves by hanging the stems upside down in a bunch or laying them flat on a screen. The leaves will be brittle and crunchy when dry. Crunch the leaves in your hands and store the dried leaf bits in an airtight container for up to one year.  

Plant Uses

Mint seems to have a billion uses! Use the dried leaves to flavor dishes with pork and lamb or even to make mint tea. Add fresh leaves to beverages like tea, lemonade, water, and popular alcoholic drinks like a mint mojito to provide a delicious and refreshing burst of flavor on a hot day. You can also make mint jelly! 

Mint oils, especially peppermint oil, flavor chewing gum, toothpaste, mouthwash, candies, pharmaceuticals, aromatherapy products, and more.  

Some mint varieties are also popular in cut flower arrangements due to their delicious scents like apple, pineapple, ginger, and more. Their leaves are also attractive as greenery in a bouquet. Mint should be well-hydrated before using in a bouquet. Make sure to harvest the stems and keep them in water for at least 24 hours before arranging them. 

Some people plant mints in the garden as a deterrent for pests like deer. Peppermint oil has been used successfully in the garden to deter dogs, cats, and some insects. This is due to a compound in peppermint called menthol.

Mint Propagation 

To grow mint, you can propagate it by seed, cuttings, or division. Be aware that mint is an invasive spreader, so it is important to keep mint contained if you do not want it to take over an area.  

Starting From Seed 

It’s best to start mint seeds indoors six to eight weeks before your expected last frost in the spring. Sow the seeds on the surface or (at the most) at a quarter-inch depth for optimal germination. Mint seeds need light to germinate. Make sure your soil or seed-starting mix is moist. 

Peppermint is actually a sterile hybrid between spearmint (Mentha spicata) and watermint (Mentha aquatic). It will need to be vegetatively propagated by either cuttings, division, or layering, rather than from seed.

All other species of mint readily cross-pollinate if planted near each other, so saving your own seed may be problematic if you’re trying to maintain one species. 

Propagating by Cuttings 

Mint can also be propagated by cuttings, and this is probably the most popular method for the home gardener. If you’d like to try to grow from a cutting, snip the plant just above a leaf node (where the leaves attach), then pull off the lower leaves of your cutting, placing the stem in moist soilless media (seed-starting mix, perlite, vermiculite, or potting mix).  

Cover the plant with clear plastic wrap or something similar to keep in humidity. Place the plant in a shaded, warm location until roots start to form on your cutting.  

Cuttings in Water

Mint cuttings will also root in a jar of water. Pull off the lower leaves of your cutting and make sure that at least one or two nodes are below the water surface. Again, nodes are where the leaves attach to the stem. This is where the roots will start to grow from, which is why it is important that these nodes are submerged.  

Wait a few weeks, changing the water every few days to keep it fresh. Eventually, you’ll see roots starting to form! After the roots have developed, plant your cutting in a pot or outdoors, making sure that you water it regularly until it establishes in its new location.  

Division 

You can also propagate mint by division. Simply dig up a section of the roots, split the plant, and transplant your mint to a pot or a new location. In fact, dividing your mint plants after three to four years may actually help it maintain health and vigor for subsequent harvests.  

If you are hoping to increase your mint stock even more, you can cut the rhizomes (underground stems that look like thick roots) into six-inch increments, making sure that each increment has at least one to two leaves or green growth per rhizome cutting. Make sure when transplanting your new division that the green growth is above the soil. Water well until the plant is established. 

Layering 

Some mint species can be propagated by layering, which is when you bend the stem of the plant down to the soil and bury part of the stem. Remove any leaves that are on the portion of the stem you will be burying. Leave at least six to twelve inches of the top part of the plant exposed.

The buried stem will begin to produce new growth from the old leaf nodes below the soil. Once new growth has emerged, you can then divide the plant and move your new plantlets to their new locations.  

Recommended plant spacing in the garden for mint is 18 inches to 3 feet apart, as these plants will quickly colonize the area where they are planted.  

Varieties

As mentioned before, Mentha species can easily hybridize, but here’s a list of some of the most common mints you can find at your local garden center. 

Peppermint, Mentha x piperita

Peppermint is a cross between watermint (M. aquatica) and spearmint (M. spicata). As the name suggests, the oils from this plant are used to flavor a variety of candies and products that we undoubtedly use every day. The leaves are dark green with serrated margins and the flowers are often pink or lavender.  

Spearmint, Mentha spicata

Another popular species of mint, spearmint has deep green leaves that have a wrinkled appearance due to the deeply cut veins. The flowers are typically white or pink.  

Pineapple Mint, Mentha suaveolens ‘Variegata’

The species M. suaveolens is commonly known as “apple” or “woolly” mint. However, the variety ‘Variegata’ is very different from its relatives and therefore called “Pineapple Mint.” The leaves are variegated (green with creamy white splashes around the leaf margins). This variety is edible but is mostly grown as an ornamental for its light, fruity scent. 

Apple Mint, Mentha suaveolens

Apple mint leaves are light green with a wooly appearance, with the stems reaching up to two feet tall. The leaves have a fruity fragrance and taste. The flowers can be in any shade from pink to white. 

Chocolate Mint, Mentha x piperita f. citrata ‘Chocolate’

This species of mint is actually a peppermint with chocolate-covered overtones to the leaves and stems. The stems are often a purplish shade and the leaves are a deep shade of green with a purplish-cast. The flavor is said to be chocolate-like as well.  

Common Problems 

There are two main cultural practices that you can utilize in your garden to greatly increase the health of your mint plants.  

Firstly, water your plants at the soil to stop the leaves from getting wet. Also water in the morning so the plant has time for the foliage to dry.

Secondly, divide your mint plants at least every two years. This will ensure your mint planting remains healthy with lots of active, fresh growth. 

You won’t encounter many issues following these guidelines, but here are some of the potential problems growers face.

Controlling Spread

Controlling the spread of mint is crucial because it can quickly dominate your garden, outcompeting other plants for space and nutrients. Its extensive root system, or runners, can spread far and wide, making it difficult to eradicate once established.

To manage this, grow mint in containers, either placed above ground or buried in the soil with the rims protruding slightly. This physical barrier prevents the roots from spreading uncontrollably.

Alternatively, you can plant mint in a designated area with root barriers installed around it. Regular pruning and harvesting also help keep the plant’s growth in check.

Diseases

While mint isn’t often troubled by disease, it is susceptible to these few problems.

Rusts 

Small whitish spots that are slightly raised will form on the underside of the leaves, and eventually, these spots will turn reddish-orange (like the color of rust). If you rub the leaves between your fingers, there may be some rust-colored spores that will rub off on your hands.

Avoid wetting the leaves as much as possible to prevent mint rust in the garden. Keep your plants adequately spaced to ensure good air circulation. 

Anthracnose 

Small, water-soaked lesions will appear on the leaves and the stems of mint plants if infected with anthracnose. Remove and destroy all infected plant debris and rotate mint in the garden each year if possible. Make sure to clip off all old plant growth in the fall and remove any fallen leaves from the area. 

Verticillium Wilt 

The leaves will turn yellow and curl around the edges if your mint plant is infected with wilt. Mostly, the plants will have a bronze cast on the leaves and they will start to grow very slowly in the spring.

The fungus that causes wilt is soilborne, so it is important to make sure you do not plant mint in soils that have previously had plants infected with verticillium wilt. If you notice signs of verticillium wilt, remove and destroy any infected plants in the garden. Prevention is key. 

Pests

Common garden pests like aphids can also make your mint appealing. Follow these guidelines to tackle them.

Aphids 

Aphids are insects that can be green, black, gray, or shades in between. They use their piercing-sucking mouthparts to feed on the plant juices, and due to this method of feeding, they can readily transmit plant viruses. Their feeding can also cause stunting and reduced plant health overall.

Once you see one aphid, you likely have hundreds. You may even notice black spots on the plant leaves and stems, which are the result of sooty mold growth on their sticky, sugary excrement called “honeydew.”

Spraying plants with forceful streams of water to knock off the aphids or using insecticidal soaps may help control the spread of aphids in your garden and therefore reduce the chances of infection by a virus. Encouraging beneficial insects like lacewings and lady beetles will also feed on aphids.  

Cutworms 

The larvae of the cutworm moth hide at the base of the plant, sometimes just below the soil surface, and feed on plant stems and leaves. Most often you’ll see the stem cut cleanly off (which is why they are called “cutworms”).

They are most active at night. You can do some digging in the early morning in your garden and usually find the culprits to destroy them. There are various insecticides that can be used, but I’ve found it easy enough to find the cutworms by gently disturbing the soil around the affected plants.  

Thrips 

Thrips are extremely tiny insects (approximately 1/15th inch long) that are cigar-shaped, winged, tan, or light brown in color, and have piercing-sucking mouthparts (which means they readily transmit viruses). Because they are so tiny, they are often extremely difficult to see.

The most common evidence of thrip damage is stippling (tiny pale spots), distorted growth, discolored flecking, abnormal petal coloring, severe stunting of the plant, and silvering of the leaf surface.  If you notice thrip damage, make sure to prune off damaged parts of the plant or remove the plant altogether.

Using a reflective plastic mulch in colors of white, gray, or silver may reduce thrip infestation because it causes flying insects to be unable to locate plants. Chemical control is not recommended because, by the time damage is present, the thrips have already moved on. 

Frequently Asked Questions