How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Green Beans
Chefs rejoice at the sight of fresh, homegrown green beans. They’re more nutritious and delicious than their grocery store counterparts. Fill a bed with bean plants and you’ll have beans for the rest of the year! Join seasoned grower Jerad Bryant in learning how to cultivate these easy-growing crops.
Contents
Green and dried beans come from the same plant. Green beans come off the vine while immature; they have edible pods and succulent, semi-ripe beans inside. Dried beans, however, stay on the plant until the pods shrivel and the seeds fully ripen.
These veggies have a quick turnaround because you pick them early. They’ll mature rapidly during late spring and summer when the days are hot and long. With hundreds of bean varieties, there are endless options for you and your home garden.
What Are They?
Green beans are edible seeds in pods from plants in the Vigna, Phaseolus, Vicia, and Glycine genera. Cowpeas, runner beans, favas, and soybeans are all plant types that you can use as green beans. Simply snap the pods off the plants while they’re fleshy, immature, and soft. Check to see if the varieties you are growing are suitable for eating whole before eating them, though. Some are best consumed after cooking and cause GI distress when they aren’t.
Native Area
Beans come from all over the world. Some originate in temperate regions of Eurasia and Africa, while others come from parts of South and North America. They’re a popular food crop that became more popular after the globalization of trade.
After trade routes became common across the oceans, our beans spread from the U.S. to all other continents. Limas, scarlet runners, and common beans are all crops that Indigenous people in the Americas domesticated before the arrival of European colonizers. We owe the deliciousness of our current-day crops to the ingenious breeding techniques these people practiced.
Other species, like mung, adzuki, and fava beans, originated from Europe, Asia, and Africa. They grow well in the U.S. despite their non-native origin.
Characteristics
Bean plants twine, vine, and climb their way up supports. Some types, known as pole varieties, climb as high as possible. Others, called bush types, stay low to the ground and bushy in shape. I like to plant a mix of the two in the garden; the bushy ones cover the ground while the pole types climb up stakes and trellises.
These plants have compound leaves with three leaflets, creating a clover-like shape. They sprout off thin, vining stems as they mature. Pea-like blossoms emerge in spring after the plants reach maturity. When pollinated, they evolve into pod-like structures with developing seeds inside.
Most of these crops are annuals, though the scarlet runner bean is an exception. It sprouts perennially in USDA hardiness zones 10 and above; it sometimes survives in zones 8 and 9 after mild winters.
Planting
Green bean seedlings are frost-tender, and cold temperatures will shock them and prevent them from maturing. Wait until the weather is warm and sunny before planting these delicious crops. If it’s time to grow tomatoes, it’s also a good time to plant bean seeds!
Growing From Seed
This is the best way to grow these vegetables. They have sensitive root systems that don’t take to transplanting well. Instead of starting them indoors and disturbing their roots during transplanting, sow seeds outdoors at the optimal planting time.
Plant bean seeds one to two weeks after your last average frost date, or when soil temperatures hover above 65°F (18°C). The ideal soil temperature range for germination is 70-85°F (21-29°C). Use a soil thermometer to measure how hot or cold the ground is.
The seeds are larger than most other crops. Plant them an inch deep, six inches apart from each other, and space rows three feet apart. Plant two seeds per hole, then thin them to a single seedling after they sprout.
Transplanting
Though not recommended, transplanting bean seedlings may help growers with short growing seasons to cheat the weather. Sow seeds indoors in pots you can transplant without disturbing the roots, like paper pots. Or, find bean seedlings at your local nursery.
Before transplanting directly into the garden, harden off the seedlings outdoors to prepare them for the transition. Hardening off is a week or two-long period when the plants adapt to outdoor temperatures, winds, and sunlight levels. Place the seedlings on a protected porch, patio, or balcony with dappled sunlight, and bring them inside if you expect late frosts.
They’re ready for transplanting after the hardening-off process. Start by digging holes for your seedlings. Make them as deep and twice as wide as the bean’s rootballs, and place the plants inside. Backfill soil until it reaches ground level, then water the plants well.
The seedlings may halt their growth after transplanting, as their roots dislike transitions. Keep them moist, protected from late frosts, and pest-free while they adapt to the garden.
How to Grow
Beans grow well with little aid! Grant them what they need, and they’ll produce bushels of pods for continuous harvesting. If they suffer, check their environment to ensure it’s up to code for healthy growth.
Light
These legumes require full sun to thrive. Grant them six to eight hours of daily direct sunlight for maximum yields and robust plants. They’ll suffer in partial shade with less than six hours of direct sunlight.
In regions with hot summers, the plants may benefit from shade during the hottest hours in the afternoon. Use shade cloth to protect plants in raised or in-ground beds, and move potted specimens to a shady site until heat waves subside.
Water
Like most vegetables, these crops require consistent watering to thrive. They benefit from regular irrigation during the growing season. Though convenient, overhead watering increases the chances of diseases and pests. Opt for drip irrigation, and water deeply and infrequently to promote deep rooting.
To prevent water loss, cover the soil with an organic mulch like compost or leaf mold after planting. It’ll feed the ground, build soil structure, and boost beneficial bacteria and fungi. These partnerships all lead to less water evaporating from the ground on hot, long days.
Soil
Well-drained, fertile soil is key to growing significant harvests. Bean species have shallow-reaching roots that access moisture near the top of the ground. A loamy soil mix will help them root without issues like fungal rots or pest pressures.
Clay and sand-heavy soils are difficult for these veggies to root in. Amend poor sites with compost, leaf mold, or straw to increase their quality. Consider using raised beds in areas with heavy, dense clay or extremely sandy dirt.
Temperature
These legumes are warm-season crops. They grow best from late spring through fall when temperatures are high and days are long. They have a long growing season in warm climates like those in zones 8 and above.
Fava beans are especially cold-hardy and a good choice for regions with frosty winters. They’re an excellent cover crop in early spring, winter, or fall. Their roots fix nitrogen from the air into the soil by making partnerships with bacteria underground, creating fertile soils without fertilizer!
Fertilizing
Your leguminous veggies benefit from two doses of organic fertilizer during the growing season. Add a regular dose when they’re in active growth and again when the pods begin to swell.
Some fertilizers have beneficial microbes like mycorrhizae. They’ll help strengthen partnerships between bacteria, fungi, and plant roots. Apply them according to their labels’ instructions.
Maintenance
These annual crops require little maintenance. Maintain weed-free soil, give climbing varieties support, and keep the ground moist but not soggy. Watch for pests and diseases to ensure your population stays healthy and robust.
Snap beans, the type you commonly eat fresh, require consistent harvesting or they’ll stop producing. Ensure you pick the pods consistently throughout the growing season.
Propagation
Most gardeners use seeds to propagate bean plants. They form at the end of summer when pods shrivel, and the seeds inside swell and harden. Though not common, cuttings are another method for replicating specific cultivars and varieties.
Seed Saving
These crops’ seeds are some of the easiest ones to collect. When temperatures begin to cool and days shorten, leave a few pods on your plants to mature. Let the seeds inside dry until the pods easily snap off the plants.
After harvesting the dry pods, you’ll need to open them up and pick the seeds out. Toss them if they’re soft, as they should resist squishing when you squeeze them. Soft ones will rot in storage. Take the ripe seeds and place them in a plastic, paper, or glass container.
Store seeds in a cool, dark location long term. Some types keep well for up to five years if they have proper storage conditions.
Cuttings
Though not common, taking cuttings is a reliable way of replicating a specific bean specimen. Take four to six-inch stem portions with a leaf or two on them, and place them in pots with potting soil. Cover their tops with a humidity dome, and keep their soil moist but not soggy.
Store the plants under dappled sunlight outdoors or indoors under grow lights. They’ll form roots after two weeks or more. They’re ready for transplanting when the roots grow out of the pots’ drainage holes.
Harvesting and Storage
When to harvest your crop depends on what type of variety you’re growing. Most are ready when the pods snap easily, hence the name “snap beans.” If they are pole varieties, harvest them constantly to keep them producing throughout the summer. If you’re growing bush types, they’ll be ready all at once.
After harvesting, store the extras in a dry, airtight container in your fridge for fresh eating. Store them long-term in the freezer, where they’ll last up to a year.
Popular Varieties
With so many cultivars available, you might wonder which is best for your garden! Consider trying one of these high-performing varieties.
‘Scarlet Emperor’ Runner Bean
This red flowering species is an iconic bean native to the Americas. The vines reach between four and seven feet long, twining up trellises and arbors with ease.
Use the flowers, young pods, and dried seeds as food. The red flowers add a crunchy texture and sweet flavor to salads and sandwiches.
Fava Bean
These veggies are a beneficial addition to homesteads. They cover the ground in late winter, early spring, and autumn when the weather is mild and cool. Use them as a part of crop rotation systems, or grow a delicious type like ‘Windsor’ for sweet, tasty pods.
Though they’re delicious, some people cannot eat favas. Avoid handling, growing, and eating this plant if you’re deficient in the enzyme glucose-6-phosphate dehydrogenase (G6PD).
Bush
Bush green beans are ideal for container gardens with little space. They don’t need tall trellises or arbors to clamber onto.
Try ‘Royal Burgundy’ for long, delicious, and purple pods. ‘Gold Rush’ is another unique form with yellow pods. ‘Provider’ is disease-resistant and perfect for most climates across the country.
Pole
Pole cultivars of green beans are perfect for fitting into tight spaces. Rather than spreading out, they climb up and fill vertical spaces with edible pods.
My favorite pole cultivar is the productive, high-yielding ‘Orient Wonder’ yard-long bean. It sprouts pods up to 18 inches long! ‘Trionfo Violetto’ is another fun type with purple pods.
Common Problems
Like all veggies, these leguminous species may face pests like insects, mammals, and diseases. Ward off issues by maintaining a healthy crop. Vibrant, robust plants are more resistant to damage than weak, suffering ones.
Pests
Aphids, cucumber beetles, spider mites, and whiteflies may infest budding specimens. Bean beetles can be a nightmare. Infestations are easily preventable with row cover. Climbing types are harder to cover; spray them to remove aphids and use yellow sticky traps to catch whiteflies.
Encourage the presence of beneficial predators like aphid wasps, ladybugs, and pirate bugs. Add wildflowers, native plants, and flowering shrubs to your yard to invite them to the space.
Diseases
Root rot is the main issue that plagues young specimens. Give them well-drained, fertile soil to prevent fungal rots from harming the roots. Plant disease-resistant varieties in areas where viruses are common.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are green beans good for?
Use your harvest in sautés, roasts, and soups. They’re perfect protein boosters for your recipes. Stir-fry fresh pods in butter with salt and pepper. They’re delicious!
Will green beans grow up a trellis?
Yes, they will! Use pole varieties, as they twine up supports better than other types.
Why do green beans turn brown?
If they’re on the plant, they turn brown as they mature, while the seeds swell and ripen. This is a normal point in the growing process. If you’ve already harvested the pods and they’re turning brown, they’re likely rotten and not good to eat anymore.
