How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Galangal

During the Middle Ages, the spicy and pungent root known as galangal was a hot commodity. It was widely traded from its native Indonesia and China throughout Europe. Its popularity in the Western world diminished, and until recently, you would have been hard-pressed to find someone who would even know what galangal was. Awareness of galangal is increasing thanks to its popularity in a diversity of Asian cuisines, particularly Thai food. 

While popularity has increased, sourcing fresh galangal roots can be a challenge. Why not grow your own? Galangal is in the ginger family and grown from the root or rhizomes. Growing galangal is easy. It is a relatively low maintenance perennial. Originally from Indonesia and Southwest China, it is attractive with a tropical look for your garden.  

Galangal has two forms: greater (Alpinia galanga) and lesser (A. officinarum). The first is larger, as it can grow up to six feet in height, and is the more common culinary root. The lesser version has a stronger taste and is most commonly used for medicinal purposes. It has a smaller stature, reaching around three feet in height. 

What is Galangal?

Let’s compare the two types you’d have to choose between when you opt to grow galangal. Both are popular to grow, but one is a bit more widespread.

Native Area

Greater galangal (Alpinia galanga) is probably the most familiar as it is the version used in culinary applications. It is native to Indonesia and grows about six feet tall and has wide blade-like leaves.

Lesser galangal (Alpinia officinalis) has its native territory along the southeast Chinese coast. 

Characteristics

Greater galangal has small flowers that are greenish-white with a dark-red veined tip. The flowers produce red berries. It grows as a perennial and the rhizomes, or roots, are what is harvested and used after about one year of growth.   

This version of galangal is common in many Asian cuisines and is the main ingredient in making Thai curry pastes, particularly those used with seafood. Its use is similar to ginger, but it is much more dense and rigid. This density lends itself to being grated rather than chopped. The rhizomes have a zingy ginger-reminiscent flavor but are more peppery with a pine aroma. These rhizomes are most often pale yellow to white in color but some varieties are blue-tinged, giving it another name of blue ginger. When dried they have a light brown color.

Lesser galangal is most often used in medicinal applications rather than cooking. It has a more pungent and medicinal flavor. The rhizomes are also a light brown to orange in color. It grows smaller and reaches only three feet in height and has thin, long leaves. Flowers are also white with red streaks or tips.

Planting

Growing galangal is easy in gardens located in warmer climates, such as zones 9 or higher. It requires little attention throughout the season, just a wait before harvesting. Climates with harsher winters may require extra mulching, as well as the use of a greenhouse, to prevent root rot. 

Grow the galangal rhizome when the soil has warmed in the spring. Avoid soggy or water-logged conditions. Galangal, however, does need moist, well-drained soil. 

To start to grow galangal, you will need warm conditions. It’s recommended to start rhizomes indoors with a heat mat. This will reduce the time the root has to wait for the right conditions to start sprouting. Simply place a rhizome in moist, well-draining soil and cover it with several inches of soil. Several shoots will emerge. 

Transplant plants to the garden when any danger of frost has passed. Select a location with full sun. Each rhizome will likely have several eyes or points where shoots will emerge. Place rhizomes 12 inches apart to allow room for what will ultimately be a larger bushy perennial. 

Galangal can be grown in a container, raised bed, or in the ground. Because it is a perennial that requires a year to establish before harvesting, consider this long wait in your planning stages. Galangal is frost-sensitive, so if you are attempting to grow it in a cooler zone, you may want to consider a container that can be moved indoors or into a greenhouse. 

Also, note that it can grow quite tall, reaching up to six feet for the more extensive varieties. You do not want to shade nearby garden plants overly, but you may be able to use the shade to your advantage. Once established, it is relatively easy to move, but if possible, select a permanent location for planting.

How to Grow

Galangal is a low-maintenance garden perennial and conditions are similar for both galangal types.

Light

Provide a location in the garden that will receive full sun for much of the day, particularly in winter. Galangal originates from tropical zones and is best grown in zones 9 and higher. Those areas that get excessive heat should be prepared to water more frequently to provide afternoon shade during the most intense time of the year, particularly if they are younger.

Water

Galangal will require regular ample water in the beginning. Once they are more established during the fall and winter months, less moisture is required. Water frequently and deeply to establish those roots. A drip or soaker hose is very helpful. Once established, watering can be dialed back to just maintaining moist soil. Being a tropical type, it does like humidity, so if growing in a naturally dry place, consider placing it near a fountain or pond. 

Soil

To grow galangal, you’ll also need well-draining soil. A garden mix with lots of organic matter will allow for drainage while also retaining moisture. The soil should not be allowed to completely dry out or be excessively wet or water-logged. Periodically top-dress with compost and mulch.

Temperature

During winter in cooler zones, the galangal will need to have the use of a greenhouse or indoor growing location. Galangal is very sensitive to frost and cold conditions. The ideal temperature to grow is between 68 to 86°F (20-30°C).

Fertilizing

Galangal will benefit from regular balanced fertilizing. Use liquid fertilizers on a monthly basis, or when leaves are looking stressed. Amping up the water will also help. 

Maintenance

To keep your growing galangal looking healthy you can prune away brown, dead leaves or bloomed-out flower stalks with some clean pruning shears. New growth will continue. But note that galangal will not die back like ginger. Browning can be an indication of a problem, such as underwatering. 

Propagation

Galangal grows from its tasty rhizome, so make sure not to consume everything you harvest. Leave some of the rhizomes growing to have a continual supply. You can also transplant rhizomes to new planting locations and start new ones.

Harvesting

It is recommended to let your galangal stand to get well established and grow for 10 months to a year before gathering the roots. The greater galangal variety should be around six feet tall, and the lesser galangal variety should be two and a half to three feet tall before harvesting. 

Galangal harvests can be done in two different ways. You can either dig up your entire patch or harvest a few roots at a time.

When harvesting a large area, using a pitchfork or potato fork is preferred to pry out the rhizomes. Be careful to get underneath the rhizomes to avoid breaking damage. If growing in a container, it may be easier to dump the contents out. Save some of the rhizomes to grow again. Rinse off all dirt and cut off the small, stringy roots and the stem. The larger galangal root will scab over and is much denser and sturdier than other roots, such as ginger or turmeric.

If gathering all gives you too much to process or perhaps you prefer fresh over dried, you may want to harvest a few roots at a time on a continual basis. Do this by digging around the base of the clump, revealing the roots, and using a sharp, clean knife to cut off what you need. Rebury the root mass. Select a different side of the patch each time to allow previously harvested areas to recover. 

Storage

Galangal will store fresh in an airtight container for a couple of weeks but is prone to drying out quickly. To store whole roots, wrap them in a damp cloth and put them in the fridge or freeze them. It can also be dehydrated and powdered. Store the dried forms in an air-tight container for months. Dried slices can be rehydrated before cooking. Dried has a more concentrated intensity, so adjust the recipe accordingly.

Common Problems

Because galangal is tropical, most problems are related to conditions that are too dry or cold than its natural territory. Fortunately, there are not many pest and disease issues when planting galangal. 

Growing Problems

Galangal leaves should appear glossy and green. Yellowing might indicate that it doesn’t have sufficient nutrients. Set up the soil with nutrients at the onset of planting and maintain regular feeding. It is also possible that galangal are overcrowded and competing for nutrients. Place rhizomes at least 12 inches apart, and if they are grown to the adult size, it may be time to harvest and thin out. 

Pests

Galangal can be plagued by several pests that eat the underground roots, such as borers. When you harvest, if you notice pits on the rhizomes, it might be best to dig all of them up and find a new spot with cleaner soil. Do not replant pitted rhizomes. Periodic rotation of the galangal location will help over the long term.

Grasshoppers, aphids, and possibly spider mites might be attracted to your galangal. If your plants are well established, the best solution might be to cut off infected leaves. For a moderate infestation, neem oil will handle the aphids and spider mites, while BT spray may assist with the grasshoppers.

Ensuring galangal are well watered and fertilized will make them less vulnerable to these pests. Unhealthy ones attract more pests.

Diseases

Rust might be an issue for your galangal, particularly if there is too much moisture and humidity. If you live in a very humid area, avoid watering top growth to minimize rust conditions and spreading to uninfected areas. Prune off any infected portions.

Root rot of the rhizomes can occur if the soil is too cold and waterlogged. Take care to select the proper location, ensuring it receives plenty of sun and has good drainage. 

Frequently Asked Questions