How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Fuchsias

Fuchsias fill the air with their purple, pink, red, white, and multi-color blooms! They’re exceptional. Some consider fuchsias old-fashioned, but I disagree. They’re essential in shady shrub gardens. 

Some fuchsias are hardy perennials, while most of the garden hybrids are frost-tender perennials. They thrive outdoors in spring, summer, and fall. Frost-tender perennials die at the first frost, while the hardy fuchsias enter dormancy for the winter. 

Native Area

Fuchsia species originate from New Zealand, South and Central America, and Mexico. They tend to be understory plants that thrive beneath taller trees and shrubs. The shade the canopy provides is perfect for them, as they prefer partially shady or dappled shade conditions. 

Most hardy fuchsias are varieties of the species Fuchsia magellanica, while the tender hybrids at nurseries and garden centers involve complex crosses of many different species. Their characteristics vary depending on their parentage. 

Characteristics

Fuchsias tend to have arching stems, ovate leaves, and folded flowers. The flowers have a collar-like structure that folds around the inner floral parts. They sort of look like spinning tops! Some varieties have giant folds, while others have tight ones. 

Fuchsias grow differently depending on their type. Some are upright, others are arching, and a few grow along the soil like a ground cover. Which is best for your garden depends on the setup. Plant upright and arching types in the ground, and place drooping and prostrate ones in containers so they spill over the edges. 

Depending on the species, these shrubs are frost-tender or frost-hardy. Choose tender types for containers and hardy ones for in the ground. Frost-tender varieties overwinter in hardiness zones 10 through 12, and hardy types overwinter in zones 5 through 10. 

Planting

You must find hybrid fuchsias at stores and garden centers, as they don’t sprout true to seed. Seedlings grow differently from their parents, with new leaf shapes, bloom colors, and petal formations. Try growing fuchsias from seeds if you’d like to experiment with them, or find your favorite cultivar at the store or online.

Growing From Seed

Fuchsia seeds need some pretreatment to sprout properly. Start by collecting them from your favorite fuchsias, or find seeds from retailers online. After sourcing the seeds, decide if you’d like to grow them indoors or outdoors. You may start seeds in early winter indoors or outdoors in spring after the last frost date.

These seeds take about a month to germinate. Sow them on the surface of the soil, pat them down, and cover them with a thin layer of soil. They need temperatures between 70-75ºF (21-24ºC) to sprout. Use a seedling heat mat in cold rooms to boost the soil temperature. 

A humidity dome aids in keeping humidity levels high while the seeds sprout. Use a clear plastic dome to cover them while they germinate, then uncover them after the sprouts appear. Let them grow for a few weeks, and transplant them into a larger container or your garden beds. 

Transplanting

Potted plants easily transplant during warm, mild weather. It’s best to plant them in the fall or spring, as midsummer is too hot for young transplants. Fuchsias like fertile, well-drained soils with plenty of organic matter. Amend poor soils ahead of time so they’re rich and porous for the young roots to grow into. 

Start by preparing the holes for planting. Dig them as deep and twice as wide as the plants’ rootballs, then place the fuchsias inside. Cover their roots with soil, water them well, then add more soil if it sinks too low. 

For a bonus, place a thick layer of compost on top of the soil. A layer two to three inches thick will insulate, feed, and protect the tender roots while they establish in their new homes. 

How to Grow

Fuchsias grow well so long as some simple care requirements are met. Give your plants what they need to thrive, and you’ll have gorgeous, free-blooming fuchsias to enjoy all summer long. 

Light

Unlike most flowering shrubs, fuchsias grow best in partial to full shade or under dappled sunlight. They dislike direct sun. A full sun exposure can cause scorching, leaf-burning, and stunted growth.

Oftentimes, gardeners place hybrid fuchsias in hanging baskets near their doorways, porches, and balconies. The stems cascade out of the containers and create lush, blooming displays. 

Water

Regular water is key to keeping your plants happy and healthy. They dislike dry soils, and they’ll dramatically wilt if they don’t get the moisture they need. When I worked at a local plant nursery, I’d water our hanging fuchsias daily in the middle of summer. 

Potted plants need more water than those in the ground. They’re subject to drying out quickly when summer days lengthen and warm. Use drip irrigation or a similar method to keep the soil moist and cool. 

Soil

Fuchsias like growing in nutrient-rich soils with plenty of organic matter. Organic matter consists of things like humus, leaves, and decomposing wood. Adding compost is the best way to incorporate organic matter into poor soils.

If you don’t have access to compost, try incorporating leaves, leaf mold, or straw into the soil. The materials will break down and feed worms, microbes, and other beneficial critters belowground. 

Fuchsia plants also prefer growing in slightly acidic soils. Use a soil test to see the pH of your garden soil, then add garden lime to boost the pH or sulfur to lower it so it’s slightly acidic. 

Fertilizing

Fuchsias benefit from regular fertilizing while they’re actively maturing during the growing season. Use a liquid or powder fertilizer every two weeks during the growing season, and water it in well so it reaches the roots.

Use organic fertilizers on in-ground plants, and organic or synthetic types on potted ones. Synthetic, salt-based fertilizers strip the soil of life, but they’re quick-acting. This is less damaging to potting soil, though it has harmful effects on the garden’s soil. 

Maintenance

Upright fuchsia varieties may require staking, as their tall stems can flop or droop when they grow heavy and tall. Deadhead spent blooms to encourage more flowers, and cut off any dead or diseased leaves to prevent pathogens from spreading. 

If you’d like to overwinter your fuchsia and keep it growing until next spring, you’ll have to bring it indoors in cold climates before the first frost. Frosty weather kills hybrid cultivars. Spray off the plants to rid them of pests and dust, then transition them to a cool, bright location indoors. A window with bright, indirect light is ideal. 

During the winter, potted specimens require little water and no fertilizer. Keep them on the dry side, and water them right before the leaves start to droop. 

Propagation

Propagate fuchsias by taking stem cuttings or by saving their seeds. Cuttings are a reliable way of replicating your favorite varieties, while seeds offer a chance to discover new hybrids. Seed germination is a bit difficult; if none sprout, try taking cuttings instead. 

Cuttings

The best time to take cuttings is in the spring when new growth sprouts from the stems. Take six-inch stem cuttings from the tips, and remove their lower leaves. Place the stems in pots with potting soil, water them well, and place the pots in trays.

Cuttings need lots of humidity and consistent moisture to root. Place a humidity dome or clear bag on top of them to trap moisture. Place the tray in bright, indirect sunlight or under grow lights while the cuttings root.

You’ll likely see roots beginning to sprout after three to four weeks. Lightly tug on the plants—they’ll resist tugging if they have roots growing. 

Seed Saving

Fuchsias grow seeds in dangling berries that sprout from spent blooms. After a flower is successfully pollinated and fertilized, it’ll begin forming a berry with seeds inside. You must collect the berries, harvest the seeds, and store them until you’re ready to plant them.

Start by harvesting fuchsia berries in late summer and fall. They have dark maroon-purple skin and fleshy green insides. Cut the berries in half, scoop the seeds out, then stir them in a glass of water. 

Remove the seeds from the glass of water and set them to dry on a cloth or paper towel. After drying, collect the seeds and place them in a glass, paper, or plastic container. Jars, envelopes, and canisters work well. Store the containers in a cool and dark location until you’re ready to plant the seeds. 

Popular Varieties

There are more fuchsias than you can count! These three varieties are some of the best performers for home gardens, though there are dozens more to choose from. Growers release new varieties annually; visit local nurseries and garden centers to see the newest types. 

‘Alba’

‘Alba’ is a reliable, hardy fuchsia that overwinters in USDA hardiness zones 5 through 10. It sprouts fleshy green stems that grow woody over time. Each season, the plant will get bigger and bigger until it reaches about 10 feet tall. 

Keep ‘Alba’ small with consistent pruning. In cold regions of zones 7 and below, the top part of the plant may die in winter, and new shoots will emerge from the base in spring.

‘Dark Eyes’

‘Dark Eyes’ sprouts red and purple-pink double-petalled blooms on arching stems. It’s a perfect variety for hanging baskets, tall containers, and large pots. 

This variety is a tender hybrid. It’ll need to overwinter indoors in cold climates, as its stems are frost-tender. Keep it in a pot so you can easily transfer it indoors and outdoors.

‘Nancy Lou’

‘Nancy Lou’ is a graceful cultivar with white and pink blossoms. They’re exceptional in cottage-themed gardens, where they blend well with lilacs, roses, and hydrangeas.

‘Nancy Lou’ is frost tender. It’ll overwinter well indoors or in a greenhouse. Take cuttings in spring to propagate new plants for the yard. They’ll fill the summer garden with blooms!

Common Problems

Fuchsias tend to be disease and pest-free, though they may face issues if they’re growing in poor conditions. Keep your plants happy and healthy to ward off issues, and treat problems promptly after noticing them. 

Pests

Watch for aphids, spider mites, and whiteflies on the leaves and tender buds. Spider mites and whiteflies thrive in dry conditions, and frequent wetting of the leaves can prevent them from thriving. 

Aphids are easy to squish and hose off. They rapidly reproduce in spring and summer as the days lengthen and temperatures warm. Catch infestations when they’re small, as they can quickly double or triple in size! 

Diseases

Watch for gray molds and fungal rust, as the two diseases infect unhappy fuchsias. Remove any leaves with orange rust spots or gray moldy fuzz. 

Wet leaves are likely to develop disease symptoms. Water the soil instead of the leaves if you see spots and molds. Feed your plant with a low dose of fertilizer to boost it while it battles the pathogen. 

Frequently Asked Questions