How to Plant, Grow, and Care For Fiddleleaf Philodendron

Fiddleleaf philodendron (not to be confused with the finicky fiddleleaf fig) is vining tropical with shapely leaves. Like other philodendrons, it adapts well to houseplant life and is a beautiful foliar addition outdoors or in. Join gardening expert Katherine Rowe in exploring the merits of this unique fiddleleaf.

fiddle leaf philodendron leaves growing up a trellis

Contents

Fiddleleaf philodendrons, also called horsehead, are so named for their distinctively shaped leaves. Lobed like violins or a horse’s head, foliage is handsome as it vines and climbs up a tree or support pole or cascades over a pot or low wall.

The species is native to South and Central America’s tropical rainforests and, fortunately for us, adapts to more temperate environments like our homes. It grows beautifully as a houseplant and in the garden as a foliar focal point in frost-free climates (USDA zones 10-11).

Fiddleleaf Philodendron Overview

A close-up macro shot of a leaf of a houseplant
Plant Type Broadleaf tropical
Family Araceae
Genus Philodendron
Species bipennifolium
Native Area South and Central America
Exposure Partial shade
Height 10’
Watering Requirements Medium
Pests & Diseases Scale, spider mites, mealybugs, thrips, root rot
Maintenance Low
Soil Type Airy, well-draining
Hardiness Zone 10-11

What Is Fiddleleaf Philodendron?

Fiddleleaf philodendron brings lush, anchoring foliage and vertical interest to the houseplant jungle. Glossy, dark olive green leaves are broad and long, with the distinguishing characteristics of deep lobes.

Philodendrons have nearly a century of houseplant popularity and year-round garden interest in subtropical climates. There are over 600 philodendron species in the Arum (Araceae) family, including household favorites like split leaf (tree) and heartleaf.

P. bipennifolium is unique in its leaf shape. As a vining type, it grows from the ground up around tree trunks in its native environment with aerial and in-ground roots. The easy-care tropical is durable, tolerates low light, and is long-lived in the right situation.

Characteristics

A shot of a person holding a houseplant that is placed in a pot, showcasing its unique shaped leaves in a well lit area
The plant has leathery, dark, palmate leaves that are fiddle-shaped.

Leathery, shiny, dark leaves are palmate and fiddle-shaped and reach over a foot long – up to 18 inches. Plants have an open habit and coarse texture with their broad foliage. Branching is attractive in light brownish silver with long tendrils.

Reliable and slow-growing, the vining philodendron is hemi-epiphytic with aerial roots that support long stems as they climb and root to a support structure like a moss pole or wooden plank. Other roots grow in the soil to anchor and absorb moisture and nutrients for upper growth.

Fiddleaves are aroids, and lucky gardeners may see a creamy white spathe as plants reach maturity after 10 to 15 years. Aroids produce blooms with a spadix that holds numerous tiny blossoms surrounded by a spathe petal (bract). This spathe has a special power: it produces heat, making the bloom warmer than the surrounding air temperature. The warmth attracts pollinators and increases whatever subtle fragrance the plants may bear.

The species likes tight quarters and does well when slightly pot-bound. Philodendrons, including P. bipennifolium, are toxic if ingested. Keep them out of reach of children and curious pets.

Native Area

A base-angle shot of a houseplant, showcasing its vine growth basking in bright sunlight
The plant is native to the central continent of South and Central America.

The species is native to the central continent of South and Central America, particularly the rainforests of Brazil and Argentina. In their native range, the aerialists receive drenching rains followed by drying-out spells. They thrive in high humidity and moderate temperatures.

Fiddleleaf grows in the understory in dappled light. They receive moisture and nutrients from the soil, the air, and surrounding plants.

Planting

Horseheads overwinter in climates that don’t drop much below 50℉, with preferred lows in the 60s℉. Everywhere else, they perform well in a container for spending warm months outside and cool ones indoors. Or, grow them indoors all year.

In a container, they benefit from training around a central stake like a moss pole. With tying off, they’ll grow upright around the support. It helps to install the support at planting to avoid disrupting the roots later on. Without central support, the vining stems sprawl, cascade, and trail over a bed or container edge.

Transplanting

A shot of a houseplant that is placed in a pot on a wooden surface, with the plant showcasing its leathery leaves in a well lit area
When transplanting, use a pot that is two sizes larger than the previous pot.

While this particular philodendron has a slow growth rate, it’s robust and fills a pot as young plants develop sturdy roots. In containers, they may need repotting annually until they become larger specimens when growth slows.

Bump them up to a larger container as roots begin to protrude through drainage holes or pop up on the soil surface. Opt for a pot two sizes larger (or more if yours is fast-developing) to accommodate growth. Avoid going too large, as extra soil retains moisture and causes prolonged saturation.

When growth slows for larger selections, repot every three to four years to refresh the soil for nutrition and aeration.

How to Grow

In the right conditions, fiddleleaf philodendrons adapt well and are easy-care houseplants. Given ample light and the proper moisture, they thrive with little maintenance.

Light

A base-angle shot of a leaf of a houseplant basking in bright sunlight outdoors
They develop best in bright indirect light.

These tropicals grow best in bright, indirect light. Too much direct sunshine, especially afternoon rays, can scorch the leaves and stems of these understory growers. Outdoors, grow them in partial shade with afternoon protection.

The species also adapts to lower light. Indoors, a situation near an east-facing window is ideal as it provides morning sun and indirect light in the afternoon. In a west or south-facing situation, take care to place pots away from the window’s direct sun or filter it with a curtain or blinds.

Water

A close-up shot of a developing houseplant with water droplets in a well lit area
Water thoroughly when the soil feels dry an inch to two below the surface.

In nature, the hemi-epiphytes absorb plenty of rain and moisture from the air and soil. Water thoroughly when the soil feels dry an inch or two below the surface. Frequency is usually once a week or two, depending on the growing environment and pot/plant size. Err on the dry side rather than overwatering.

Overwatering damages roots and leads to their inability to uptake water and nutrients necessary for flowering. Underwatering causes the plant to enter preservation mode, a stressor, forcing energy conservation to survive. Water fluctuations can cause weak roots to develop unevenly for less robust upper growth.

Water deeply when the soil feels dry until it flows through the drainage holes. In-ground specimens can last a bit longer as they benefit from surrounding soil mass and moisture. Water these when the top few inches of soil are dry.

Soil

A shot of a person wearing gloves and is in the process of inspecting and mixing a potting mix on a white container in a well lit area
Use rich, well-draining soils with proper airflow.

Fiddleleaf does best in rich, well-draining soils, whether in the ground or in a pot. For containers, use a high-quality potting mix to ensure good drainage and aeration. Renew the soil at each repotting session.

Temperature and Humidity

A close-up shot of a variegated houseplant that is placed on a pot on a gravel surface in a well lit area outdoors
Ideal temperatures for the plant will depend during daytime and during nighttime.

The mild-climate dwellers have ideal daytime growing temperatures between 75-85°F (24-29°C) degrees, with nighttime temperatures between 65-70°F (18-21°C).

They hail from a humid environment and do best with humidity above 50%. This is average for most homes but can vary depending on season and other conditions like arid climate, heat, and air conditioning. If humidity is low, set the pot on a tray of pebbles filled with water. This raises the immediate air moisture. Grouping plants also raises the surrounding humidity.

Fertilizing

A gardener wearing white gloves, holding a bottle cap with liquid mineral fertilizer, over a watering can and some pots.
Use a balanced, low-grade and diluted liquid fertilizer.

Philodendrons require little to no fertilizing with good soils, though houseplants get a boost from balanced, low-grade, diluted formulas. Pick up fertilizing in early spring. Opt for an organic liquid houseplant fertilizer (like 10-10-10) and use it at ½ strength. Apply it every other watering session in the warmer months. Granular formulas work well, too, and only need application every two months or so.

Stop fertilizing in early fall as growth naturally slows with cooling temperatures.

Maintenance

A shot of a person using a small tool and currently in the process of pruning a houseplant that is placed on a black pot in a well lit area outdoors
Pruning is done to remove damaged leaves, manage its size and promote bushy growth.

Prune damaged or yellowing leaves any time of year. Trim stems to manage size and promote a bushy form. Always cut stems just above a leaf node to regenerate fresh growth. Cutting back allows potted specimens to maintain a desired height, especially as the tall specimens slowly reach for the sky.

Train the vining stems as they develop for a vertical form. Repot as they require, usually annually, to start.

Propagation

Fiddleleaf philodendrons propagate most easily through stem cuttings. Air layering and simple layering are other methods to create new plants.

Simple layering is a technique that works for trailing specimens. If you have fresh, long stems on your philodendron, this might work. Use a small pot filled with soil or a layering pod, and place it below a node of a trailing stem (still attached to the mother plant). 

If you’re using a pot, bury the stem a few inches deep. Pin the stem in place and keep the soil moist. If you’re using a pod, simply stuff it with moistened peat or coco coir, and affix around the stem. You can also scuff the stem (see layering below) to promote rooting. When roots develop after two to three months, clip the layer from the primary plant.

Cuttings

A shot of a person holding rooted stem cuttings of a plant in a well lit area outdoors
They should be taken during the plant’s active growth season.

Cuttings are best taken in spring and summer during active growth but are viable any time of year. Cut a healthy piece of stem below a node. It should have one to three leaves intact. An easy method is to stick the stem in a clean, clear jar of shallow water. In a week or two, roots develop. When they’re over one inch long, plant the cutting in a small pot with moist, well-draining potting mix.

Alternatively, skip the water rooting and stick the fresh cutting in a small pot of the moist mix. Keep the soil consistently moist and place the pot in a bright, warm spot out of direct sunlight.

Air Layering

A shot of a ball filled with sphagnum moss for air layering propagation of a houseplant in a well lit area
This technique involves taking a branch to foster a rooted shoot on the parent plant.

Air layering involves cutting a living branch to foster a rooted shoot on the parent plant. To successfully air layer, start in spring or summer:

  • Remove all leaves several inches along the branch, one to two feet from the stem’s tip.
  • From the center of the layering area, make a cut along the stem an inch or more in length and about halfway through the branch. 
  • Optional: apply a rooting hormone to the cut surface.
  • Pack a handful of pre-soaked sphagnum moss around the branch to cover the cut and form a ball.
  • Cover the ball with plastic wrap secured with tape or twine, and wrap it with aluminum foil (wrapping keeps the moss intact and prevents it from drying out).
  • In a few months, feeder roots will be visible through the clear wrap.

When roots are visible, cut the layered stem from the remaining branch. Unwrap and soak the roots before potting. Leave remaining moss in place to avoid disturbing roots and plant in a small container to continue growth.

The straight species is most cultivated, handsome in dark green with structural leaves. Additional varieties include an esoteric blue horsehead with smaller, glaucous, and waxy leaves. Other philodendron hybrids, like ‘Florida Ghost,’ have similar leaf shapes and growth habits from related (but separate) species.

P. bipennifolium ‘Splash Gordon’

A shot of a variety of houseplant showcasing its winged foliage with smears of bright creamy white streaks
This variety has winged foliage and is mottled with creamy gold streaks.

‘Splash Gordon’ features winged foliage splashed and mottled with bright, creamy gold amongst deeper greens. Leaves are waxy and varied in their colorful patterns. They begin brighter and mature to darker green coverage.

With a flash of brightness, this variety lightens corners and contrasts with dark green or burgundy foliage. The arrow-shaped leaves and tone make it a unique feature specimen.

Common Problems

These philodendrons have few pest and disease problems. Spider mites, scale, and mealybugs are occasional visitors. Root rot due to overwatering can be a fungal issue.

Pests

A shot of a leaf of a houseplant infected with spider mites
There are a number of insect pests that plague this plant.

Scale are common pests that pierce leaves and stems to feed on sap. You may notice a sticky residue. The little legless blobs usually appear on the undersides of leaves and stems as black, gray, or silvery dots. Leaves may yellow and drop, with stems dying back in heavy infestations. Remove affected leaves (and branches, if severe).

Mealybugs are soft-bodied and look like tiny tufts of white cotton on leaves and stems. Infestations are visible by the insects themselves and by yellowing, wilting, or stunted leaves.

Spider mites are common in houseplants and live on the undersides of leaves, indicated by webbing and light yellowing of leaf surfaces. Thrips are another common pest that are mostly outdoors, but will congregate indoors in greenhouses.

Scale, mealybugs, thrips, and spider mites gravitate toward specimens stressed by under or overwatering. For small populations, run plants under a stream of water to displace the pests. Dab scales with a Q-tip or cotton swap soaked in isopropyl alcohol. Insecticidal soaps and horticultural oils are effective as more potent treatments.

Root Rot

A shot of a houseplant that is affected with root rot showcasing its wilting leaves and stems in a well lit area
Fungal diseases stem from overwatering.

A common fungal disease to look out for is root rot. Overwatering creates saturated conditions that promote development. Rot causes the roots to turn brown and mushy; as they decay, they can’t function to support growth.

Plants in overly soggy media with poor airflow may show yellowing and wilting leaves. Check the roots and clip off those that are brown or damaged. 

Replant the fiddleleaf in fresh media and water thoroughly. Continue with a watering regimen that prevents prolonged oversaturation. If caught early, you may see rebounding growth. Since these tropicals propagate easily from stem cuttings, it may be wise to take a few in case the roots can’t recover.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is fiddleleaf philodendron the same as fiddleleaf fig?

The two are separate plants with different characteristics and requirements. Philodendrons are easy care and adaptable in the right light with even moisture. They both provide vertical structure, though fiddleleaf philodendrons are vining and need training to a support post to grow upright. But their low maintenance growth makes them long-lasting and less finicky than the fig.

Are they toxic?

The genus is toxic if eaten. It’s best kept away from young children and curious pets.

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