9 Reasons Your Houseplants Keep Dying (and How to Stop It)

Houseplants can be tricky! Though many are tough perennials that thrive indoors, some face difficulties in the comforts of our homes. These nine common issues are easily correctable with a few simple tricks. Join longtime houseplant grower Jerad Bryant in diagnosing and correcting the problems.

A shot of shriveling plant that showcases dying houseplants

Contents

Almost any plant can be a houseplant for some time! The types we cultivate regularly are those that thrive for many seasons indoors. They prefer the warm temperatures and humidity levels common within our homes.

Though they thrive inside, houseplants sometimes experience growing issues and start showing signs of decline, or even signs that they are dying. Young potted plants from the store suffer during transitionary periods, while mature specimens may face potbound roots or a lack of nutrients. No matter the problems, the good news is that there are ample solutions.

The first step is identification. Look at your dying houseplants and inspect their parts. Do their leaves have scorch marks? How wet is their soil? Measure as many factors as possible to get closer to the root problem. Humidity, temperature, and how often you move the plants are other variables that influence how well they grow. 

Grab your magnifying glass and get ready to diagnose! Here are the nine reasons your indoor houseplants are dying and nine solutions for each problem. 

Epic Seed Starting Grow Lights Small

Epic Seed Starting Grow Lights Small

Our Rating

Epic Seed Starting Grow Lights Small

Espoma Bio-tone Starter

Espoma Bio-tone Starter Plus Organic Plant Food (4 lbs.)

Our Rating

Espoma Bio-tone Starter Plus Organic Plant Food (4 lbs.)

Easy Pour Watering Can

Easy Pour Watering Can

Our Rating

Easy Pour Watering Can

Environmental Shifts

Top view of an upright plant with roots and soil, featuring vertical thick stems supporting shiny, lance-shaped leaflets, next to two clay pots on a wooden surface.
When the plants are moved, they spend time and energy adapting to the new environment.

Plants aren’t built to move—their roots anchor them in place, locking them in a final location. When you move them from one spot to another, they spend time and energy adapting to the new environment. If they can’t produce energy, they run out of their reserves and die. This problem often occurs when bringing plants home from nurseries and garden centers. 

The tender tropicals at big-box stores come from large grow operations with greenhouses, perfect growing conditions, and ample sunlight. They turn small cuttings and seedlings into large houseplants seemingly overnight! Though this rapid growth is good for business, it makes it difficult for the plants to adapt to adverse conditions within our homes.

How to Stop It

A cluster of Ficus plants with large, dark green leaves near a humidifier releasing mist, enhancing the lush and tropical setting.
Gradual transitions are best, so slowly introduce them to the new environment.

Aim for slow transitions that match the plants’ original environments. If the plant came from a dark department store, you want to bring it under indirect sunlight for a few days before giving it more light; conversely, if the store is super bright, avoid moving the plant into a dark room.

The same is true for temperature, drafts, and moisture levels. Heaters and A.C. units blast hot or cold air, making it difficult for houseplants to grow. Try to match the species with their preferred conditions, and do so slowly without shocking the tender specimens. 

Improper Container Size

A rootbound plant with roots coming out of the holes.
Correct container size will promote proper airflow, moisture levels and proper root growth.

Choosing the right container is essential to healthy houseplant growth. You want one that’s not too small or big, but just right for the spreading roots. Container size is important because it influences soil moisture levels. 

Young seedlings have tiny root systems. In small containers, they absorb all the moisture and nutrients they need, which dries the soil. Seedlings growing in large containers have more moisture than they need. They quickly drown if the soil stays consistently moist.

The inverse is true; large roots in small containers struggle to get what they need. There’s not enough space for them to spread, and insufficient moisture and nutrients halt their growth.

How to Stop It

Close-up of woman in blue gloves repotting a large plant with a large root ball, lush green foliage, and red bracts into a new white decorative pot on a table with a bowl full of fresh soil.
Transplant a developing plant in a larger container and maintain its soil.

How to solve this problem depends on your situation. If you recently transplanted your houseplant into an oversized container, you want to leave it alone for some time. Multiple transplants in a short span can shock the plant, leading to more issues. Simply moderate your watering regimen—water less than normal, and do so when the soil surface dries. 

If you have a large plant in a small container, transplant it into a larger one. Grant it fresh soil, and water well so it’s moist but not soggy. Always start with the right container size so you rarely have to do emergency transplants!

Not Enough Light

A potted monstera plant with deeply lobed leaves sits elegantly on a wooden table.
Lack of light exposure can kill the plants.

Insufficient lighting is one of the leading houseplant killers! Many homes are dark, especially during winter. Gardens in temperate zones have short days and low light levels during the cold months, and this shift affects plants indoors and outside.

Signs of not enough sunlight include legginess, leaf yellowing, and moist soil for long periods. Without light, plants can’t photosynthesize and make sugar for energy. They slowly lose vigor and struggle to perform normal tasks like drinking water and growing new leaves.

How to Stop It

Long vines draped with lush green leaves featuring bright yellow streaks and speckles in a gray decorative pot near a sunny window.
Move the plants closer to light or use grow lights.

There are three solutions. The first is to find low-light houseplants that will thrive in your home. Pothos, ZZ plant, and heartleaf philodendron are some species that will survive in the dark. 

The second solution is to move your specimen closer to the light. Most tropical species prefer bright indirect light, while some need direct sunlight. Giving your plant the exposure it prefers will quickly correct leggy growth. 

The third solution is to use grow lights! They emit light frequencies matching sunlight to boost the brightness in dark homes. Set them up on a timer so they turn on when the sun rises and off when it sets. 

Too Much Light

A plant basking in bright sunlight indoors
Too much sun exposure can cause severe damage depending on the plant species.

Just as not enough sunlight harms plants, so too does too much! Different species prefer different light levels. Some dwell on forest floors under shady tree canopies, so they tolerate shade well. Others, like cacti, grow under direct sunlight most of the day! They’ll need a bright exposure inside the home.

If you place a tender forest dweller under direct sun rays, the plant’s leaves may scorch and burn. You’ll see black, brown, and yellow spots or stripes where the sun hits the leaves. Short, squat growth with small leaves is another symptom of excess light. Plants adapt by blocking the light, preventing it from reaching their young shoots underneath.  

How to Stop It

A potted Calathea plant, showcasing its variegated leaves, placed on a wooden coffee table next to a gray couch.
Move the plants away from direct sunlight.

It’s simple! Move your plant away from the light. South-facing windows get the most sunlight, while north-facing ones get the least. East and west-facing windows are perfect for the species that prefer bright indirect sunlight. They need filtered light that’s not too dim nor too harsh. 

Overwatering

Close-up of a woman watering a potted plant from a red watering can on a sunlit windowsill.
Wet and soggy soil kills the plants.

Like dark rooms, wet soil is a major killer of houseplants. Too often we water when it’s comfortable for us rather than our plants. Though a weekly regimen is great for our schedules, it doesn’t always account for shifts in plant growth. In some seasons, the plant drinks a lot of water, while in others, it consumes very little.

The best rule of thumb is to water once the soil dries on top. Most plants like a moist soil culture with some dryness in between waterings. It’s good to consult a plant guide for your specific species to determine how much water it needs; some houseplants prefer consistent moisture while others prefer a dry culture. 

How to Stop It

A woman waters a plant in a white pot using a white watering can.
Only provide watering when the soil is dry.

You can use the finger test to see if the plant needs water; stick your dry finger into the pot, and see if it comes out with moist soil sticking to it. If it does, hold off on watering. If nothing sticks and the container feels dry, it’s time to water.

If the plant is declining, hold off on watering and make sure it has enough sunlight. Leggy, light-depraved specimens are more likely to rot than healthy ones. Sometimes the decline continues; if this is the case, you’ll want to take the plant out of the pot, clean its roots, and repot it with fresh soil. Though drastic, this last-ditch effort sometimes saves dying specimens. 

Not Enough Water

Top view of a flower pot with dry, cracked, brown soil and a tall plant stem with green foliage.
Dry soil creates an arid environment for the plant.

Dry soil can be just as devastating as soggy soil! It often occurs in winter as heaters pump dry air into homes to keep them warm. The dry air sucks moisture from the air and creates an arid environment for tender tropicals. They drink water to stay well-hydrated, though they quickly run out under these conditions.

The same can be true for houseplants in the summer. Sunshine and warmth create the perfect conditions for rapid growth. The plants suck up water to keep up with this growth, drying the soil in the process.

How to Stop It

Water flows over the newly sown soil, making it moist and dark as it absorbs into the surface.
Water the dry soil thoroughly until it drains from the drainage holes.

Correct dry soil by watering thoroughly until water drains freely from the pot’s drainage holes. A quick weekly check-up ensures you catch dry plants before it’s too late. Using the finger test, prope your finger into the soil to see how wet or dry it is. 

Lack of Nutrients

A potted plant showing signs of stress, with a mix of vibrant green foliage and several yellowing leaves.
Lack of nutrients will prevent healthy growth.

Like water, nutrients are essential for healthy growth. Roots pull them in from the ground, and cells convert them into building blocks for new shoots, leaves, flowers, and roots. Without the nutrients, your precious specimens wouldn’t be able to grow new parts!

At first, most houseplants perform well because they grow in fresh potting soil with fertilizer. The fertilizer feeds them for a few weeks or months before running out. It’s best to begin a yearly fertilizing regimen after it runs out to keep your species happy and healthy.

How to Stop It

A person's and giving organic fertilizer to plant
Provide a regular dose of organic fertilizer to replenish nutrients.

Correct nutrient imbalances by fertilizing with a regular dose of organic fertilizer. Use nitrogen-rich blends for leafy types and ones with phosphorous and potassium for flowering species. They’ll need a monthly dose during the growing season from spring through summer. 

Avoid adding fertilizer during winter, as it overwhelms the roots with excess nutrients. Your houseplants won’t actively grow while days are short and temperatures are cool—they’ll survive without fertilizer until spring. 

Overfertilizing

Save overfertilized plants. Close-up of Calathea Orbifolia in a large white pot outdoors. The plant has damaged leaves due to overfertilization. Calathea Orbifolia is a stunning tropical plant known for its large, oval leaves adorned with intricate patterns of silvery-green stripes that radiate from the central vein. Each leaf showcases a blend of light and dark green hues. The tips of the leaves are brown and dry.
Overfertilizing can cause nutrient imbalances.

Though winter is the easiest season to overfertilize, it can also occur during the growing season! A houseplant lives in a container where its roots have limited access. Outdoors, it’d easily recover from nutrient imbalances with unlimited access to the dirt. Indoors in a pot, it’ll need some of your care to grow its best. 

Though a monthly dose of fertilizer works well for most houseplant species, it doesn’t work well for all of them. Cacti and succulents require fewer nutrients than other types, as they naturally grow in sandy, nutrient-poor dirt in desert regions. Knowing your plants’ preferences will help you decide how often and how much to fertilize. 

How to Stop It

Close-up of a plastic test tube placed in a red bowl filled with dark brown soil in a garden.
Use a soil testing kit or flush away the nutrients with a steady trickle of water.

Overfertilizing is a little more tricky to solve than underfertilizing. You can’t take fertilizer away but you can always add more! If you’re unsure of the nutrient levels, you can use a soil testing kit to learn exactly what nutrients are missing or are in excess.

One way to flush nutrients out of the pot is with a steady trickle of water. Let the water run freely through the soil; it’ll help move the excess fertilizer out of the pot. 

Pests

Close-up of a pothos plant in a white pot, with heart-shaped variegated green and yellow leaves, showing aphid pests on the stems and leaves.
Insect pests can damage and kill plants.

Pests aren’t typically the first sign of plant decline, though they can kill weak specimens! Leaf-eating insects target weak plants because they’re easier to invade than healthy, turgid ones. You’ll keep most pests at bay by cultivating strong, hardy houseplants.

All houseplant growers will see a pest or two in their lifetime. Critters like aphids, thrips, mealybugs, and whiteflies love the conditions within our homes. They set up shop on tender leaves, sucking the sap from them. 

How to Stop It

Someone holding a spray bottle pointing it at a plant with other plants in the background
There are many ways to get rid of pests.

A good shower will knock off most pests from the stems and leaves. Some, like thrips, have hard outer shells that require rubbing alcohol to penetrate. Crush them with your fingers or use a cotton swab with rubbing alcohol to remove them.

After a shower, a good coating of neem or horticultural oil should do the trick. It’ll protect the leaves from insects and drown any trapped underneath the oil. Spray it outdoors away from flowering plants, and use a mask to protect yourself from the droplets.

Share This Post
marigold flowers in hydroponic containers

Houseplants

15 Best Hydroponic Houseplants and How to Grow Them

Growing houseplants hydroponically is a modern way to get beautiful growth without soil, pots, or laborious maintenance. However, some plants grow better than others in these tech-savvy systems. In this article, plant expert Matt Dursum shows you the best hydroponic houseplants and how to grow them.

A woman in a yellow sweater waters a cactus in a white pot from a white watering can, a houseplant that is watered rarely.

Houseplants

13 Houseplants You Should Water Very Rarely

Different types of plants need different amounts of moisture. Overwatering some of them can lead to a disaster! Houseplant enthusiast Melissa Strauss has an important list of houseplants to water sparingly so you can avoid a bad case of root rot.