How to Divide Lavender in 7 Steps

Dividing lavender is a bit tricky, but there are ways to propagate new plants through offshoots and segmenting roots and stems. Layering is a streamlined method of creating new divisions. Or, if your fragrant grower is in peril, you may want to consider dividing stems and roots to foster new growth. Explore the measures of dividing lavender with gardening expert Katherine Rowe.

Written by Katherine Rowe Horticulture review by Sarah Jay Last updated: September 23, 2024 | 6 min read

Close-up of a divided lavender bush with slender, woody stems and dense clusters of narrow, silvery-green leaves held in a man's hands against a garden backdrop.

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Lavender, the floriferous, fragrant, sun-loving Mediterranean herb, is worthy of a spot (or multiple spots) in any garden. With its invigorating aroma and purple wanding blooms, we understand the hope of creating new additions from existing plants.

There are several ways to propagate lavender including softwood and hardwood cuttings and growing it from seed. Division is also possible, particularly through layered offshoots. Dividing the established crown of lavender is a bit trickier.

If your lavender plant is aging, showing a decline in core growth and reduced vigor, you may want to experiment with dividing. Or, if you have a bushy, vigorous selection, there may be offshoots to harvest. The process involves a few things to consider, entailing more than just splitting the plant into pieces.

Division Overview

A female gardener in a blue apron and colorful gloves holds a large flower pot containing a plant with upright, thin stems and tightly packed, needle-like leaves in a muted silver-green color. — Use self-rooted offshoots for safe lavender propagation.

The process for dividing lavender differs from that of some other perennials. Many herbaceous perennials have clumping roots, rhizomes, or spreading roots that split apart easily and with resilience. The new segments hold both stems (growth tips) and roots intact. Dividing benefits these plants by reducing overcrowding and stimulating growth while creating new transplants.

Lavender is a woody subshrub, meaning it generally has a single woody trunk with multiple branches just above the soil level. The singular trunk makes it sensitive to splitting in half or into smaller pieces. Disturbing the woody base and the roots limits the plant’s ability to support growth. Survivability is low. So, it’s best to tackle division if risking the original plant is worth it (i.e., it’s already declining).

The most viable means of dividing lavender is to look for layered offshoots that self-root. Robust plants propagate themselves when their stems contact the soil. They develop roots at the point of contact while drawing nutrients from the mother plant. As roots grow, they become self-sufficient.

Dividing offshoots is straightforward and doesn’t harm the mother plant. Many woody species, like roses and hydrangeas, share this natural propensity.

Poke around the existing shrubby perennial to locate any naturally occurring rooted stems for dividing. You can also create your own air layers by burying pliable stems.

While division is possible and, when successful, a quick way to achieve new plants, cuttings are the primary way to propagate these durable herbs. Some selections grow from seed (with patience – they can take a couple of years to develop and flower).

Create Your Layers

The plant features upright woody stems, adorned with narrow, silvery leaves, crowned by delicate clusters of purple blossoms in a sunny garden. — Air layering lavender before frost ensures better root development.

Dividing lavender through air layering is possible any time of year, though it’s best to get stems in place before the first frost in the fall or after the final frost in the spring. The newly developing roots will be tender to seasonal extremes.

Begin layering in the spring to transplant divisions in early fall. Or, start in early fall to settle stems before winter dormancy.

Prep the Stem

Close-up of a woman's hand touching a purple flower in a sunny garden. — Choose flexible stems with new growth for effective air layering.

For the best air-layering proponents, look for low-growing, pliable stems with healthy new growth and slightly woody bases. They need to be at least four inches long and able to bend to the soil level. Keep the stem attached to the mother plant.

Determine where the stem best meets the soil, and remove the leaves around this section. Using sterilized snips or a blade, lightly scratch and scuff the bottom of the stem in the segment. Optionally, you can apply a rooting hormone to the scarred base to spur root development.

Dig a shallow trench one to two inches deep and place the scuffed portion in it, covering the stem with soil. At this point, the tip of the stem and the base are exposed with one portion buried.

Pegging

Close-up of a man in gray gloves watering a young bush, distinguished by wiry, woody stems and finely textured, elongated gray-green leaves, with a blue watering can. — Secure the layered stem and keep it moist until rooting.

With the stem in place, anchor or “peg” it to hold. A sod staple or rock does the trick. A coat hanger cut and shaped into a “Y” is a handy fix.

Leave the layers in place for six to eight weeks to develop healthy roots for transplanting. Keep the sections evenly moist during the growing season, taking care not to create overly wet conditions.

Check for root development after the one- to two-month time frame (longer during winter). If the stem shows good rooting, clip the young plant from the mother and situate it in its new garden location or pot it up for overwintering.

Divide the Crown

Close-up of a woman's hand using a hoe to loosen the gray soil around a young bush. — Attempt division only with declining plants.

Straight division of woody-stemmed lavender is a more tenuous, experimental approach. To attempt to cut and split established specimens, divide only when lavender plants show crowded central crowns with less vigor and flowering. The crown may show signs of dieback and browning stems. If the experiment doesn’t work, you won’t lose an otherwise healthy plant.

Look for new and healthy growth on stems surrounding the declining core. Aim to capture at least three to five stems, if present, with equal parts roots in each divided section. Do a visual exploration of what appears to be a natural point of separating the plant. Decide if you want to dig the whole plant or extract perimeter roots by digging down the sides.

Make the Best Cuts

Close-up of a gardener's hands in white gloves using a spatula to dig up a small bush with upright, branching stems and narrow, silvery-green foliage forming a dense, mound-like structure. — Lift the plant to separate roots and create new sections.

Lavender develops extensive roots that reach 18 to 24 inches deep. Dig the entire plant to lift it if it’s manageable or if you need a better visual. Otherwise, leave large specimens in place and dig down one side of the root ball to expose potential sections to separate.

Use a spade to dig the whole plant or along the roots. If lifting the entire perennial, try to extract the root ball intact.

Once lifted, loosen roots and shake off excess soil. Snip and brush away woody stems and debris. Remove and discard any diseased parts. If working with the plant in place, expose one area of roots to the extent of their depth. Look for viable separation points.

With a sharp blade or spade, separate the core into sections. Each segment should have viable stems (growth points) and roots attached. These become the new garden transplants.

For the best viability, replant the segments shortly after dividing them. With the planting area prepped and amended, tuck the divisions into loose, well-drained soils. Replant the original or compost it if lacking healthy growth.

Transplanting

Close-up of a gardener in yellow gloves replanting a young bush with upright, short stems covered in soft, narrow, grey-green leaves. — Prep the site with well-drained soil and proper spacing.

Prepare the site for the transplants to get them in the ground soon after dividing. Install the transplant in its new spot, with a hole twice as large as the root section. Water deeply to moisten the surrounding soil.

Space the young divisions two to three feet apart for standard varieties and one to two feet for compact and dwarf growers. Good air circulation is vital to preventing fungal diseases like crown rot.

Soil plays a vital role in lavender’s vigor. It grows best in average to poor, rocky soils that aren’t overly rich in organic matter. The key to success is a fast-draining foundation.

Give the arid perennials sandy, gravelly soils. They struggle in clay or compacted soils, wilting as roots sit in water without access to oxygen. These soils lack particles to promote aeration and drainage and remain overly saturated. Amend them to improve drainage with horticultural sand, pea gravel, or perlite.

Seedling Care

Close-up of newly planted small plants in moist soil, forming small clumps with upright stems covered in soft, thin gray-green leaves adorned with water droplets. — Full sun and well-drained soil keep this plant thriving.

Native to Mediterranean climate zones, lavender grows best in areas with warm, arid summers and cool, wet winters. Optimal growing conditions to promote overall health include full sun for six to eight hours daily. Provide extremely well-draining soils, avoiding waterlogged situations and overly fertile conditions.

Lavender is low-maintenance and thrives with a little neglect, but new transplants need consistently moist soils as roots establish in the first growing season. Watering deeply—but infrequently—encourages a deep root system for support during environmental stress like heat waves or cold snaps. Frequent shallow watering encourages roots that grow laterally and beneath the surface rather than deep into the soil.

How much water lavender needs depends on site-specific factors, including soil type, plant size, and seasonal weather. For these sun-loving and drought-resistant perennials, it’s best to err on the dry side.

Young and newly transplanted herbs need consistent moisture, with water once or twice weekly. In most growing areas, established and mature plants require only minimal supplemental irrigation, if any. Watering every two weeks and during hot and dry spells is beneficial.

Overwintering

A field of flowering lavender bushes features woody stems and fine, silvery-green leaves, highlighted by dense spikes of violet flowers blooming in neat rows over straw-mulched soil. — Mulch or shelter perennials for winter protection in cold zones.

In lower growing zones, add extra mulch for cool-season protection or evergreen boughs to protect against freezing extremes.

To overwinter the perennials in containers, place them in a cool, sheltered location like a garage or basement until the final frost passes in spring. Check the soil moisture level occasionally to keep roots from drying out completely.

Once your lavender transplants are full and fluffy, they’ll benefit from pruning in spring and fall. Cut back plants up to one-third in autumn to promote a full form the following spring. Give a light trim in spring after the first flush of flowers to shape and encourage more blooms.