How to Plant, Grow, and Care for ‘Crane Red’ Ornamental Kale

You thought flowers were the only option for a bouquet? Think again. ‘Crane Red’ ornamental kale is a stunning cultivar with a hot pink center that fades to blue-green on the outer leaves. With a rapid vertical growth rate, it quickly forms the shape of a rose, with a distinct “flower” and stem. As the season gets colder, the pink grows even stronger. Plant biologist Emily Estep will explain how to plant, grow, and care for ‘Crane Red’ kale.

Close-up of large, tightly clustered Brassica oleracea heads with thick, vibrant pink leaves edged in light green, filling the entire frame in a well-lit indoor environment.

Contents

As the days get shorter and the temperature gets colder, most popular cut flower species, such as zinnias, salvias, and cosmos, begin to suffer. Your beautiful sunflower heads are probably drooping, if they haven’t already been stolen by squirrels. This time of year can be a total bummer if you’ve been enjoying fresh cut flowers all summer.

Enter ornamental kale. Specifically, ‘Crane Red,’ a vertical cultivar that has smooth, blue-green outer leaves. As this brassica gets taller and its bottom leaves die off, it begins to mature into a rose-like shape, with a distinct stem and rosette at the top. The center of the “rose” turns bright pink when it gets cold.

It’s the perfect addition to any bouquet, adding color when you’re running thin on options. Like edible kale, ‘Crane Red’ is a super chill addition to the garden. When planted properly, it flourishes with little help and survives well into winter in many zones.

We’ve gathered everything you need to know about how to plant, grow, and care for ‘Crane Red’ ornamental kale, adding exceptional color to your fall garden and autumn bouquets, possibly well into winter.

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Brassica oleracea (Acephala Group) ‘Crane Red’ Overview

Tall and slender stems topped with layered magenta and purple rosettes, resembling blooming roses with their tightly packed petals.
Plant Type Annual, vegetable
Family Brassicaceae
Genus Brassica
Species oleracea
Native Area Mediterranean
Exposure Full sun
Height 2-3 feet
Watering Requirements Moderate
Pests & Diseases Aphids, leafminers, flea beetles, slugs, cabbage worms, bacterial leaf spot, downy mildew, powdery mildew, black rot
Maintenance Low
Soil Type Rich, well-draining
Hardiness Zone 2-11

What Is It?

Several stalks of Brassica oleracea sprout fresh pink and green leaves at the tips, arranged neatly against a soft yellow background, highlighting the contrast between the sturdy stems and the vibrant leaves.
This tall kale was bred for cut flower arrangements, adding a bright pop of pink with classic blue-green outer leaves.

‘Crane Red’ kale is an ornamental cultivar that is known for its role as a fun and unique addition to autumn bouquets. This tall kale was bred for cut flower arrangements, adding a bright pop of pink with classic blue-green outer leaves.

As the temperatures cool down, the colors of ‘Crane Red’ intensify. So, while your zinnias and other cut-flower classics are on their last legs, you’ll still have a fresh, bold option to harvest for a fall centerpiece.

Characteristics

A close-up of an ornamental Brassica oleracea head, displaying layers of rounded, pale pink leaves that form a rose-like pattern, surrounded by dark green outer leaves in a garden bed.
As the growing season progresses, ‘Crane Red’ grows taller.

‘Crane Red’ is a low-maintenance plant that will extend your “flower” season well into winter. It complements any garden, both ornamental and veggie. Note that while this brassica will look right at home in your vegetable garden, you shouldn’t eat it. Technically, it’s edible, but it won’t taste good

Most kales are biennial, focusing all their energy on vegetative growth in their first year and on flowers in the second, though they’re usually grown as annuals. This is also the case for this popular ornamental. Once the ground freezes, it will stop growing. Don’t plant it now with the assumption that it will look the same next year, even if it survives winter. 

As the growing season progresses, ‘Crane Red’ grows taller. You may even want to stake or trellis these plants up, depending on how windy your area gets. You can remove the bottom leaves from the stem if they don’t fall off on their own. This gives these plants a rose-like appearance.

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Native Area

A large, outdoor field densely packed with Brassica oleracea, showcasing rows of tightly layered plants with purple and green hues, creating a striking patchwork of colors.
You can now grow them in USDA hardiness zones 2 through 11, especially as annuals.

Kale as a vegetable has its origins in the Mediterranean region and what is now Turkey. These regions broadly have temperate climates, with hot, dry summers, mild, wet winters, and moderate precipitation.

Farmers have cultivated and bred kale for thousands of years, resulting in the subspecies and varieties we know today. You can now grow them in USDA hardiness zones 2 through 11, especially as annuals.

Ornamental kales were hybridized in Japan. The U.S. The Department of Agriculture sent a horticulturalist to Japan in 1929 on the hunt for new and noteworthy plants. Ornamental kale first appeared in American seed catalogs in the 1930s.

Planting

A garden scene filled with various Brassica oleracea plants, featuring a mix of white, purple, and green-leaved varieties, forming a lush and colorful ground cover.
You can plant it directly in the ground, and it also makes an excellent addition to container arrangements.

The best time to transplant an ornamental kale is in late summer or early fall. You’re likely to see young plants at the nursery near the mums and other fall staples. However, you can grow ‘Crane Red’ in spring, too. This cool-weather ornamental thrives in the cool temperatures of both early spring and fall.

You can plant it directly in the ground, and it also makes an excellent addition to container arrangements. Consider that these plants may reach up to three feet in height, so you may want to plant them with a trellis or some other form of support.

Since they can survive frost, they won’t be going anywhere anytime soon. They may ultimately become taller than nearby plants. In a garden or raised bed, this could shade out neighbors. In a container, this makes ‘Crane Red’ a good choice for your “thriller.”

Transplanting

A hand in bright green gloves lifts a Brassica oleracea plant from the soil, exposing the dense root ball beneath, while the dark soil contrasts with the vibrant green leaves.
For the first week or so, keep it well-watered, giving it a chance to really establish roots.

To transplant young plants either in the ground or in a planter, dig a hole that’s a bit larger than the plant’s root ball. Then, place the root ball inside the hole, and backfill with soil. Water in the plant well.

For the first week or so, keep it well-watered, giving it a chance to really establish roots. These plants are fairly hardy and should adapt quickly.

Growing from Seed

A large pile of dark brown seeds lies scattered over a white surface, the tiny round shapes standing out clearly in this detailed and close-up shot.
The seeds germinate better at warmer temperatures, while they grow best at cooler temperatures.

For spring planting, start ‘Crane Red’ seeds indoors a couple of months before the last frost. The seeds germinate better at warmer temperatures (60-65°F or 16-18°C), while they grow best at cooler temperatures. Warm, indoor conditions will help them sprout, and then you can transplant outdoors. 

Fill seed starting trays with a good-quality seed starting mix. Submerge the small seeds about ¼ inch deep into the mix. Keep the mix moist until germination occurs, and then move the seedlings into the sunlight. Transplant once they begin to outgrow the trays.

If you’d like to start this ornamental from seed with the intent to grow the plants in fall, you can simply direct sow the seeds in late summer (about three months before your first first) in their intended growing location. The outdoor climate at this time should be ideal for germination.

You can still start seeds in trays for fall planting, but direct sowing them outdoors will allow you to skip the transplanting step.

How to Grow

A small seedling with heart-shaped, light green leaves emerges from the rich, dark soil, its tiny size highlighting the early stages of Brassica oleracea growth.
Once you get it established in the right spot with the right soil, there’s not much you need to do.

‘Crane Red’ is a low-maintenance brassica, just like most kales. Once you get it established in the right spot and in the right soil, there’s not much you need to do. Fertilizing and pruning is mostly optional.

Light

A small cluster of tiny green Brassica oleracea seedlings pushes through the dark soil, surrounded by scattered remnants of mulch or seeds, in a moist garden bed.
Without enough light, this ornamental may not develop its intended color.

Choose a location that receives full sun exposure. This translates to at least six hours of direct sunlight per day. Keep in mind that the days will continue to get shorter in fall, and plant accordingly. Without enough light, this ornamental may not develop its intended color.

Water

Lush green Brassica oleracea plants grow closely together in a vibrant garden, with their leafy tops surrounded by a bright pink border, highlighting the contrasting colors and textures of the foliage.
Plan to give these plants about one inch of water per week, including precipitation.

This plant has moderate water needs. Plan to give these plants about one inch of water per week, including precipitation. Kale is somewhat drought-tolerant. It won’t suffer too much if the soil dries out from time to time, but it will perform much better when consistently watered.

Soil

A watering can pours water over tiny Brassica oleracea seedlings in a freshly prepared garden plot, the dark soil glistening as the seedlings absorb the moisture.
Soil needs are the same whether you’re growing in the ground or in containers. 

Plant in moist but well-draining soil. You don’t want the soil to dry out quickly, but you also don’t want it to retain too much water, which can lead to root rot. Soil needs are the same whether you’re growing in the ground or in containers. 

Autumn can bring gloomy days with it. ‘Crane Red’ may experience many cloudy, rainy days in a row in fall, which is why it will need well-draining soil to avoid rot. You can amend soil with perlite to improve its drainage if needed.

Temperature and Humidity

A lone green Brassica oleracea seedling grows in moist, dark soil inside a bright pink tray, its small, delicate leaves sprouting upwards under soft natural light.
They will survive through frosts and produce intense color.

These ornamentals thrive in cool conditions, when the temperature is somewhere in the 60 to 70°F (6-21°C) range. They really shine when the temperatures drop further, around 50 degrees and below. At this point, the signature color fade of ‘Crane Red’ starts to appear. 

While you can absolutely grow it in spring, this decrease in seasonal temperature is what makes it so well-suited to growing in fall. You don’t need to take any steps to protect these plants as it gets colder. They will survive through frosts and produce intense color.

As the temperature continues to drop, this kale will continue to grow until the ground freezes. You can try mulching around the plant to delay the freeze just slightly. 

These plants prefer the average humidity levels that typically accompany fall weather. If you live in a particularly humid area, you may want to space these plants out to provide better air circulation, which can mitigate the spread of disease.

Fertilizing

Close-up of female hands holding fresh compost with worms over a container full of compost.
You can apply a little bit more fertilizer every few weeks if you wish, but it’s not necessary.

Because ‘Crane Red’ plants are usually only grown for one season, fertilizer isn’t a great concern. Start these plants in nutrient-rich soil, whether that be garden soil amended with compost or a fertilizer-enriched potting mix in containers.

You can apply a little bit more fertilizer every few weeks if you wish, but it’s not necessary. Once they start putting out their pink color, skip fertilizing entirely.

Maintenance

A pair of bright green gardening gloves and sharp garden shears rest on a weathered wooden surface, their dark metal blades contrasting with the natural wood grain underneath.
If the oldest outer leaves are damaged, you can remove them with clean pruners.

These plants require very little maintenance. There is no need to prune them. If the oldest outer leaves are damaged, you can remove them with clean pruners. As these ornamentals grow taller, you may want to pluck the lower leaves to create a “rose” shape for bouquets. 

Propagation

Several young Brassica oleracea seedlings grow in black plastic pots, arranged on a metal cart in a greenhouse, the small plants showcasing dark green leaves with fresh growth in well-drained soil.
You may want to take cuttings of your plant or a friend’s plant to expand your fall collection.

Beyond starting from seed, the best way to propagate this brassica is through cuttings. You may want to take cuttings of your plant or a friend’s plant to expand your fall collection, especially if you have a long growing season.

Cuttings

A close-up view of dark green Brassica oleracea seedlings growing in black plastic containers, the curled leaves and visible stems bathed in soft, natural light from above.
Allow the cutting to sit and heal for a day or so until the wounds callous over.

Using a clean, sharp knife or pruners, take a top cut from a tall, healthy plant with lots of leaves. Make your cut at a 45-degree angle. Remove leaves from the bottom half of your new cutting. Allow the cutting to sit and heal for a day or so until the wounds callous over.

Optionally, you can apply rooting hormone to the bottom of the cutting. This may help the plant produce more robust roots, but it’s not required. Prepare a pot with moist potting soil, or choose a spot in the garden where you want to plant the cutting, and moisten the soil there.

Plant your cutting in the prepared pot or in the ground. Keep the soil moist for the next week or so, until you can tell that the plant has rooted. Then, you can treat the new ornamental kale as a regular plant.

The host plant from which you removed the cutting will bounce back. It will put out at least one new “head’ of growth, though it may branch out and produce even more.

An outdoor bed filled with Brassica oleracea varieties featuring soft lavender, pink, and pale green leaves, the plants arranged in layers, forming a textured, quilt-like pattern of colorful foliage.
If you love the idea of growing foliage plants that offer visual interest well into winter, consider these cultivars.

‘Crane Red’ is one of many ornamental kale varieties, also known as “flowering kale.” If you love the idea of growing foliage plants that offer visual interest well into winter, consider these cultivars.

‘Peacock White’

A close-up of a single Brassica oleracea plant with thin, wispy silver-green leaves, resembling a peacock tail in its delicate spread, surrounded by similar foliage in a garden setting.
It gets the “white” in its name for the bright white leaves at the center that emerge once it gets cold.

Unlike many other cultivars that have a tight, cabbage-like head, ‘Peacock White’ is more loose and ruffled, forming a nice rosette shape. This plant reaches about one foot in height, so it’s perfect for filling in container spots. It gets the “white” in its name for the bright white leaves at the center that emerge once it gets cold. The white and green contrast make this a festive option for planters going into the holidays.

‘Nagoya Red’

A close-up of large Brassica oleracea leaves with deep purple veins and curled edges, the plant standing tall in an outdoor garden bed, where light dapples the surface of the leaves.
This ornamental isn’t a vertical type, reaching just one foot in height.

This cultivar is another option with pinkish purple leaves in the center that fade out to dark green, somewhat similar to ‘Care Red’, though it has ruffled edges. This ornamental isn’t a vertical type, reaching about one foot in height. It adds rich color to autumn arrangements and only gets more colorful as the season progresses.

‘Redbor’

A large Brassica oleracea plant with vibrant, curly dark purple leaves and thick stems, growing robustly in rich, dark soil as sunlight illuminates its intricate textures and shades.
It has long, ruffled leaves, not in a tight rosette shape, with deep, red veins.

‘Redbor’ is a gorgeous cultivar that looks more similar to the kale you’d grow in the veggie garden when it comes to its shape, but not its color. It has long, ruffled leaves, not in a tight rosette shape, with deep, red veins. As it gets colder, the leaves get more red. ‘Redbor’ is one of the prettiest kales that also tastes delicious.

Common Problems

A Brassica oleracea head with layers of pale, white-tinted leaves, surrounded by a border of green outer leaves, growing neatly in a garden bed under soft, diffused light.
There are a handful of pests and potential diseases that may take root.

‘Crane Red’ kale doesn’t suffer from a lot of problems. They thrive easily without much maintenance, and since they’re grown as annuals, there’s not a lot of time for problems to really accumulate. There are a handful of pests and potential diseases that may take root.

Insecticidal soap can treat multiple common pests, drip irrigation or watering near the base of plants can prevent multiple common diseases, and crop rotation can minimize both pests and disease.

Pests

A close-up of several small, green cabbage worms feeding on a large Brassica oleracea leaf, the damaged areas of the leaf showing clear holes and discoloration against the healthy green surface.
They crawl all over the surface of the leaves and create little holes.
  • Aphids: You may find masses of these insects, which can be orange, green, red or black, covering the undersides of the leaves. This can lead to stunted and distorted growth, and the honeydew aphids produce attracts ants and fungal disease. You can physically remove aphids with a sharp spray of water from the hose or treat the infestation with insecticidal soap.
  • Leafminers: These insects bury into the leaves and leave wavy lines or tunnels. This can ruin the appearance of the leaves and stunt their growth. Fortunately, their effects aren’t fatal. Simply remove any infected leaves to control them.
  • Flea beetles: These beetles leave splotches, holes, and pitted areas in the leaves. A large enough infestation can cause entire plants to wilt. Crop rotation can help prevent them in the first place, and you can manage them with floating row covers, insecticidal soap, or neem oil.
  • Slugs: Garden molluscs take big bites out of kale leaves and leave slimy trails in their wake. You’ll see more of them after rainy nights. You can make preventative snail traps and put rings of coffee grounds around your plants as a physical barrier.
  • Cabbage worms: These little worms eat kale, cabbage, and other related plants. They crawl all over the surface of the leaves and create little holes. They won’t kill the whole plant, but they can ruin the appearance. A row cover can stop the moths from laying eggs on your brassicas in the first place. You can manually remove them or apply a Bt product to kill them.

Diseases

A Brassica oleracea plant with light green leaves showing signs of powdery mildew, the fungal growth visible as a white, powder-like coating on the leaf surfaces, contrasting with the dark, weathered stems nearby.
This fungus inhibits photosynthesis and causes leaves to curl.
  • Bacterial leaf spot: This bacterial disease spreads best in cool weather, which is unfortunately also prime time for ‘Crane Red’. You will see wet spots on the leaves that develop into brown or black marks. The leaves may turn yellow and drop. This disease can live in soil for a couple of years, so crop rotation can help prevent it. Avoid overhead watering, which also spreads the disease.
  • Downy mildew: This fungus will appear as gray sections underneath the leaves with yellow patches on top. Not only does it affect the appearance of the plant, but also, it can lead to death. Maintain good air circulation and avoid overhead watering to prevent it. Remove damaged leaves to control its spread.
  • Powdery mildew: Another fungal disease, you will be able to see powdery mildew on the leaves. It will look like gray or white dust. This fungus inhibits photosynthesis and causes leaves to curl. Similar to preventing downy mildew, maintain good air circulation between plants and avoid overhead watering. Remove affected leaves as they crop up.
  • Black rot: This is a bacterial disease that affects brassicas. You may see yellow patches on leaves that evolve into V-shaped marks. Black rot can ultimately lead to the entire head rotting. Remove any infected plants right away, rotate crops in the future, and water at the soil line to help prevent the bacterial spread.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does ‘Crane Red’ come back every year?

No, this plant is a biennial, though it’s usually grown as an annual. This means that it completes its life cycle in two years. Though it may survive winter and “come back” for one year, the second year will be its last. These brassicas typically put all their energy towards growing leaves and vegetative growth in the first year, and then complete their life cycle by producing flowers and seeds in the final year. They are not perennial.

Will ornamental kale survive a freeze?

Yes, if these cool-weather plants have been slowly acclimated to the weather, they will survive a freeze. In fact, they can survive temperatures as low as 5°F (-15°C). Not only are they likely to survive the first couple of freezes, but also, they may survive through the entire winter if you’re growing in a warmer zone.

How tall does it grow?

The ‘Crane Red’ cultivar is known to reach about three feet in height, making it one of the taller cultivars available on the market. Typically, ornamental kale reaches about 12 to 18 inches in height, depending on which type. ‘Sunset’ is another tall cultivar, reaching about two feet in height.

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