9 Ways to Get Bromeliad Plants to Rebloom

Tropical plants make gorgeous houseplants! They’re also perfect for landscaping outdoors in warm regions, and bromeliads are one of the best types. Though they rebloom naturally in their native range, they require some care to perform well in our homes and gardens.

Guzmania lingulata with glossy red flower bracts radiating from a yellow-orange central rosette, surrounded by smooth dark green strap-like leaves.

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Bromeliads include many closely related species that thrive in tropical and subtropical climates. They come in all shapes and sizes! Some are epiphytic plants that cling to trees and powerlines, while others are ground-dwelling perennials

These colorful perennials need some specific care to perform their best. Because they grow in tropical climates, they’ll benefit from extra humidity, consistent moisture, and bright but indirect sunlight indoors. They also require special conditions outdoors, depending on your garden’s climate. 

Whether your bromeliad just finished blooming or it hasn’t in years, these tips will guide you through the reblooming process. You’ll have fresh flowers in a few weeks!

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Know Your Bromeliad

Neoregalia carolinae with maroon-red center and glossy green outer leaves forming a wide rosette with slight curl at the tips.
Care depends on the plant type—water-holders need filled centers, while air plants need humidity.

The term “bromeliad” refers to any number of species in the Bromeliaceae family. Tillandsia, Neoregelia, Dyckia, and Guzmania are some of the many groups in the family. Many form rosettes of perky leaves, while others have moss-like foliage. 

How your bromeliad grows and thrives will determine how you should care for it. If you have a water-holding type, you’ll want to ensure its rosettes regularly hold water. Air plants, or epiphytes, don’t need soil to grow; they require regular spritzings or soakings and high humidity levels to thrive.

Most bromeliads, regardless of their genus, wither after flowering, and new shoots, or “pups,” form from the dying plant. The pups will flower in the future, while the main portion that has already flowered will die back. So don’t throw your flowering plant away! Preserve its pups if you want flowers in the future.

Use Proper Soil

Cryptanthus bivittatus showing low-growing rosette of flat, jagged leaves with pale pink and dark red stripes and wavy edges.
Use a porous, well-draining mix that holds a bit of moisture but dries quickly between waterings.

If you want your bromeliad to rebloom, it needs the right soil. These mist-loving specimens grow in special soil mixes. They prefer loose, airy blends that mimic the dirt in their native habitats. Orchid soil blends with bark and moss are excellent for bromeliads. The goal is to have plenty of air pockets in the container that allow the roots to breathe.

No matter what materials you use, ensure the final mix is well-draining, porous, and slightly acidic. You want some moisture to stay in the container, but not too much to prevent the roots from drowning. Cactus mixes work well for the sun-loving bromeliads that tolerate drought. 

Other bromeliads don’t need soil at all! Tillandsia plants use their roots to anchor themselves and not to drink or take in nutrients. Mount them on pieces of wood on your wall, or let them hang in glass terrariums. They require high humidity and frequent soaking to thrive and bloom. 

Select a Good Container

Aechmea blanchetiana with arching orange-tinted leaves in a tall rosette shape growing densely in rich soil.
Choose containers based on environment—plastic retains moisture, terracotta dries fast, and stone balances both well.

Stone, plastic, and clay are common container materials perfect for these tropical species. Which type to use depends on your local climate or indoor conditions. Glazed ceramics, stone, and plastic hold water well, while terracotta dries rapidly.

Our homes are typically low in humidity because of frequent A/C or heater usage, which zaps the moisture out of the air. Use non-porous pots like plastic, stone, and glazed ceramics to lock in moisture. Or, consider adding a humidifier to the room and using terracotta. 

In humid climates outdoors, use terracotta or a similar clay-based container that drains freely. In dry regions, use an absorbent soil mix and a moisture-holding container made from stone or glazed ceramics. 

Whichever container you choose, ensure it’s a good size for your bromeliad. These plants don’t need large containers because they don’t use their roots to drink or take in nutrients. Give them one large enough so that they can stand upright inside. Avoid oversized pots, as they encourage soggy roots and fungal rots. 

Maintain Consistent Moisture

Neoregalia concentrica with wide red-tipped leaves covered in brown speckles forming a flared rosette with a water-holding center.
Tank types need water in their leaf centers but prefer soil to dry slightly before watering.

These tropical dwellers appreciate lots of moisture and consistent humidity. Like with orchids, you should water them thoroughly, then let the soil dry slightly before watering again. Tank bromeliads hold water in their leaves and preserve it for dry days; they need water to keep their tanks filled, though they prefer a dry soil culture around their roots. 

Epiphytic types that live on wood, moss, or similar materials require high humidity levels and weekly soakings. In especially dry climates, they may require daily misting or more frequent soakings. Watch for curling, dry, or crunchy leaves, and add moisture if you see the symptoms. 

Though rare, there are bromeliads that require a dry soil culture to thrive. Species in the Dyckia genus tolerate droughts and cold weather, though they grow best with regular water and fertilizer. Check which species of bromeliad you have to verify how much or little water it needs.

Fertilize Frequently

Use sprays since foliar nutrients mimic natural mist, dew, and fog absorption.

Bromeliad plants appreciate continuous doses of fertilizer during the growing season to encourage strong growth and reblooming. Use a water-soluble type that you can add to the tank types’ reservoirs. You can drench the potting mediums and leaves of other types by soaking them in the fertilizer mixture.

How much fertilizer to use depends on how large or mature your plant is. Use ¼ of a regular dose for large specimens, and ⅛ of a regular dose for smaller, younger ones. Use a slightly acidic fertilizer if you can, as it will help the plants soak up more nutrients when it’s the optimal pH. Otherwise, a type meant for houseplants and low in nitrogen will do. 

If you have plenty of orchids and use a foliar spray-type fertilizer, you can use it on your air plants as well. They appreciate the nutrient-rich spray, as it mimics how they get nutrients in the wild. Mist, dew, and fog bring them to the plants in a similar manner. 

Fertilize once every two weeks during the growing season, and cut back when the plant slows its growth in the off-season. Watch for signs of overfertilization, like yellowing leaves and poor growth. Cut back on how often you fertilize or how much you use if you see these symptoms. 

Move Bromeliads Outdoors

Guzmania hybrids with pink and purple bracts grow tightly together in a shallow bowl planter with green leaf clusters around them.
Gradually move plants outdoors after frost, starting in shade before full sun for summer exposure.

Because bromeliad plants thrive in tropical regions with plenty of sunshine, they may benefit from moving outdoors in zones with warm summers. There’s nothing like direct sunlight, regular wind flow, and the natural changes of an outdoor environment for growing plants.

Moving these perennials outdoors may help them rebloom by giving them the ample light, moisture, and nutrients they need to thrive. The changing seasons create optimal conditions for them to sprout flowers and new pups. 

Use a transition period to help your specimens adapt to the outdoors. Move them outside after the last frost date, harden them off under the shade for a week or two, then move them to a sunny spot for the rest of the summer. Move them in during any snap freezes or cooler weather.

Though these tropical perennials appreciate bright indirect light indoors, they like sunny conditions outdoors. Provide full sun to partial shade, depending on the species.

Heat Up the Space

Close-up of a white plastic humidifier spraying a damp breeze into the air next to tropical houseplants.
Humidifiers help maintain moisture indoors while adjusting temperature using A/C or heaters when needed.

No matter the species, bromeliad plants are frost-tender and will not rebloom in cold weather. They will turn mushy and brown as soon as frost, ice, and snow return in the fall. Transition them back indoors before the first average frost date arrives in autumn.

While indoors, they’ll thrive during the winter with average indoor room temperatures. Daily temperatures between 70-90°F (21-32°C) are best, while nightly temperatures should hover between 50-65ºF (10-18ºC). The temperature change from day to night is important for bloom development

If an indoor room is lower or higher than these temperatures, consider using heaters, humidifiers, and small A/C units to shift the room to an optimal range. Heaters and A/C units lower the humidity, and a humidifier allows you to change the temperature while maintaining optimal humidity levels. 

Apple in a Bag

A clear plastic bag tied around two red apples used for ethylene exposure to stimulate reblooming.
Trap an apple and the plant in a clear bag to trigger reblooming in months.

If you follow all of the above guidelines and your bromeliad plant still won’t flower, you can attempt to force it to rebloom. Two options are available. All you need is an apple and a clear plastic bag for this trick!

Apples release ethylene, a naturally occurring gas that induces ripening and flowering in plants. You can place one in a clear bag with your plant, and it will promote reblooming within two to three months. Tie the bag down to the container with a string or a rubber band so it encases both the bromeliad and the apple.

The clear plastic amplifies the sun, so it’s best to move the plant to a darker location during this process. Leave the plant near bright, indirect light with the apple in a bag for a week. Remove it when the week is over, and blooms will appear after a month or longer. 

Ethylene Treatment

Aechmea fasciata with silver-green leaves and central pink flower bracts shaped like a soft pinecone with narrow spikes.
Ethylene-based sprays like Florel® can help plants rebloom when applied, following the product instructions carefully.

Because ethylene is a naturally occurring chemical, you can find it available in products that induce ripening or flowering. Florel® is one such product that works to promote reblooming in bromeliads. Apply it according to the instructions on its label.

Ethylene chemical formulations, like Florel®, aren’t OMRI-rated for organic use in gardens and farms. Consider using the apple-in-the-bag treatment if you run an organic garden or farm.

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