What Type of Manure is Best for the Garden?

If you’ve been gardening for any length of time, you’ve likely heard experienced gardeners sing the praises of manure. And for good reason. This natural fertilizer can transform struggling plants into thriving ones at very little cost in a short amount of time.

But not all manure is created equal. Some types can burn delicate plants, while others might introduce unwanted weeds to your carefully tended beds. It’s important to understand the nutritional content of each and how it will impact your plants before you use it.

Let’s dig into the world of manure and find out which type might be right for your garden this season.

Using Manure in the Garden

Manure is the waste product from animals, used as a natural fertilizer for thousands of years. Long before synthetic fertilizers lined garden center shelves, farmers and gardeners relied on manure to replenish soil nutrients and grow healthy crops.

Unlike synthetic fertilizers, which often focus on specific nutrients, manure delivers a full spectrum of macro and micronutrients along with organic matter. It’s the difference between giving your plants a multivitamin and just vitamin C.

The popularity of manure isn’t just based on tradition. As more gardeners shift toward organic and sustainable practices, manure has enjoyed a well-deserved renaissance. It represents a perfect closed-loop system in small-scale agriculture – animals eat plants, produce manure, which then feeds more plants. This natural cycle builds soil health over time rather than depleting it, which is why you’ll find even commercial organic farms incorporating animal manures into their fertility programs.

That said, not all gardeners are comfortable using manure. Some prefer plant-based composts for ethical reasons or because they follow vegan gardening principles. Others might be concerned about potential pathogens or medication residues in certain manures. Thankfully, there are plenty of alternative organic amendments available if manure isn’t right for your garden.

For those who do choose to use manure, the benefits are substantial.

Benefits

When added to garden soil, manure delivers a powerful combination of nutrients that support plant growth throughout the season. Manure releases its nutrients slowly, feeding your plants for months rather than weeks.

Beyond nutrients, manure dramatically improves soil structure. It adds organic matter that helps sandy soils retain more moisture and heavy clay soils drain better.

Perhaps most importantly, manure introduces beneficial microorganisms that create a living, breathing soil ecosystem. These microscopic helpers break down organic matter, fix nitrogen, and even protect your plants from certain diseases.

Drawbacks

As much as gardeners love using manure, there are potential downsides, depending on how you use it. Most of the drawbacks come from using fresh rather than aged manure.

Fresh manure can be problematic for several reasons. The high nitrogen content in fresh manure can actually burn plant roots and kill seedlings. Fresh manure can also harbor harmful bacteria like E. coli that you definitely don’t want anywhere near your food crops. And if the animals have been grazing in weedy areas, their manure might introduce unwanted seeds to your carefully tended beds. Nothing’s more frustrating than accidentally planting weeds alongside your vegetables!

There’s also the smell to consider. Your family, neighbors, and nose will thank you for using aged manure instead.

Where to Buy Manure

If you don’t have animals of your own, local farms are often happy to let you haul away some of their excess. Just call ahead and bring your own containers or bags. Many are willing to load your truck or trailer for a small fee.

Garden centers and home improvement stores typically stock bagged composted manure that’s ready to use. While this option costs more than sourcing directly from farms, the convenience factor can’t be beaten. The manure is already aged, screened, and sometimes even mixed with other beneficial amendments.

For those on a budget, check with local stables or equestrian centers. Many are drowning in horse manure and will give it away for free if you’re willing to load it yourself.

Types of Manure

Manure can come from any animal, but each type has slightly different characteristics.

Cow

Cow manure is relatively mild, with a balanced nutrient profile that works well for most plants. With an NPK ratio of roughly 0.5-0.2-0.4, it provides a gentle feeding that won’t overwhelm your plants.

What makes cow manure particularly valuable is its lower risk of burning plants compared to other manures. This makes it ideal for vegetable gardens where you’re growing edible crops. Since cows have four stomachs, their manure is thoroughly digested, which means fewer viable weed seeds to worry about.

Cow manure also improves soil structure dramatically, helping it retain moisture while still allowing proper drainage. If you’re new to using manure in the garden, starting with composted cow manure is a great choice.

Pig

Pig manure isn’t as commonly used as other types, as it can contain parasites that affect humans. It shouldn’t be used in vegetable gardens or around any edible plants, particularly fresh.

Once properly composted over a long period of time, pig manure can become a valuable garden amendment. Just be sure to apply it several months before planting, as it decomposes relatively slowly compared to other manures. To be on the safe side, it’s best to stick to other manures.

Horse

Horse manure is generally light and fibrous, making it perfect for breaking up heavy clay soils. With an approximate NPK of 0.7-0.3-0.6, it’s slightly richer in nutrients than cow manure.

The biggest downside to horse manure is its tendency to contain viable weed seeds. Horses don’t digest their food as thoroughly as cows, which means those pesky weed seeds can survive the journey through their digestive systems. If you’re using horse manure, make sure it’s well-composted, preferably through a hot composting method that kills those seeds.

Despite this challenge, horse manure remains one of the most readily available types for home gardeners. Its heat-generating properties also make it perfect for warming up soil in early spring or creating a hot compost pile that breaks down quickly.

Rabbit

If you’re looking for a manure that packs a powerful punch, rabbit manure might be your new best friend. It contains about four times the nutrients of horse or cow manure and can be applied directly to the garden without composting.

Rabbit manure is the rare exception that can be used fresh without burning plants. Its NPK ratio of roughly 2-1-1 makes it more balanced than most other manures, and it comes in convenient pellet form that’s easy to work with.

Rabbit manure also breaks down quickly, releasing its nutrients faster than larger animal manures. Use it as a side dressing around hungry plants during the growing season or as a gentle fertilizer tea for seedlings.

The only real drawback is supply. Unless you raise rabbits yourself or know someone who does, rabbit manure can be challenging to find in large quantities.

Sheep

Sheep manure falls somewhere between cow and chicken in terms of nutrient content. It’s relatively high in nitrogen and potassium, making it excellent for fruiting plants like tomatoes and peppers.

One advantage of sheep manure is its texture. The small pellets break down quickly and integrate well into the soil. It’s also lower in weed seeds than horse manure, as sheep tend to digest their food more thoroughly.

Like most manures, sheep manure should be composted before use to prevent burning plants and eliminate any pathogens. Once aged, it makes an excellent all-purpose fertilizer that improves both soil structure and fertility.

Chicken

If manure were coffee, chicken manure would be espresso – concentrated and powerful. With an NPK ratio of approximately 1.5-1-0.8, it’s significantly higher in nitrogen than most other manures. This makes it fantastic for nitrogen-hungry plants like corn and leafy greens.

But that strength comes with a warning. Using it fresh will absolutely burn your plants and might even kill them outright. Chicken manure must be thoroughly composted for at least six months before being applied to the garden. Once properly aged, though, it becomes an incredibly valuable amendment that delivers a serious nutrient boost to your plants.

Because of its high nitrogen content, chicken manure works particularly well for plants in their vegetative growth stage when they need lots of nitrogen to produce lush foliage.

What Type of Manure is Best for the Garden?

After exploring all these options, you might be wondering which manure reigns supreme in the garden. The truth is, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer. The best manure for your garden depends on your specific needs and what is most readily available to you.

For all-purpose garden applications, cow manure is hard to beat. Its balanced nutrient profile and mild nature make it suitable for most plants, and it’s readily available in most areas.

If you’re growing leafy greens or corn that need extra nitrogen, composted chicken manure might be your best choice. Just remember to use it sparingly and ensure it’s well-aged.

For gardeners struggling with heavy clay soil, horse manure can work wonders by improving soil structure. And for container gardens or seedlings that need gentle feeding, rabbit manure takes the crown.

When choosing your manure, also consider what’s locally available. The most sustainable option is usually the one that doesn’t have to travel far to reach your garden.

How to Use Manure in the Garden

Now that you’ve selected the right manure for your garden, let’s talk about how to use it effectively. The first rule of using manure is this: always make sure it’s properly composted (unless you’re using rabbit manure). Fresh manure can burn plants, harbor pathogens, and cause more problems than it solves.

For established beds, apply a 1-2 inch layer of composted manure in fall or early spring, gently working it into the top few inches of soil. This gives it time to integrate with your soil before the heavy feeding season begins.

When planting, you can add composted manure directly to planting holes, mixing it with your native soil. For tomatoes and other heavy feeders, I like to add a generous shovelful to each planting hole for a nutritional boost right where the roots need it.