Get Year-Round Tomato Harvests With This One Growing Strategy

Do you love growing tomatoes and dream about having them year-round? With one simple and effective strategy, you can enjoy them throughout the year. In this article, plant expert Matt Dursum shows you the steps to this easy tomato-growing strategy.

Harvesting ripe red tomatoes grown using a tomato growing strategy, a gardener places them into a large wicker basket in a sunny garden.

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Tomatoes are such an important food crop in a summer garden that it’s hard to imagine the season without them. Picking their juicy fruits off the vine and using them in your favorite dishes is one of life’s simple pleasures. But as soon as the temperatures fall, your tomato plants will slowly die away. What if you could grow bountiful tomato harvests year-round with a simple strategy?

Successive planting involves planting multiple varieties of tomatoes during separate times of the growing season, as Jacques does in this video

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Below are the steps to executing this incredible tomato-growing strategy. Try it in your garden this year and see how many bountiful harvests you get. Note that growers with short seasons may not have as much luck with this method.

Glacier

Glacier Bush Tomato Seeds

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Glacier Bush Tomato Seeds

Moskvich

Moskvich Pole Tomato Seeds

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Moskvich Pole Tomato Seeds

Brandywine

Brandywine Pink Pole Tomato

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Brandywine Pink Pole Tomato

Step 1: Choose Your Varieties

A metal bowl holds a colorful mix of freshly picked tomatoes, including small round yellow, purple, and red fruits alongside large red and yellowish-green ones.
Choose diverse varieties for a spread-out harvest throughout the year.

The first step in this strategy is growing tomatoes that will yield bountiful harvests at different times of the year. By planting several varieties, you’ll have more variation in harvest times instead of getting a ton of fruit all at once. 

Choose varieties that are bred with some form of pest and disease resistance. You’ll have better luck growing these tomatoes without worrying about losing your crop. Pick delicious varieties with a good balance of sweetness and acidity. 

Heirloom varieties are wonderful, but hybrids are more disease and pest-resistant. You’ll probably have more success growing hybrid varieties. With food prices so high, why risk having a poor harvest? Below are some of the top varieties to grow successively and when to plant them.

‘Glacier’

Compact, bushy plant with bright green, serrated leaves and round, smooth, red fruits with thin, glossy skin.
Enjoy juicy, cold-hardy varieties perfect for salads.

‘Glacier’ tomatoes are early-ripening varieties. They are relatively disease and pest-resistant. They’re also very juicy and taste amazing in salads. This would be a good variety to include in batch 1. 

‘Moskvich’

Sturdy stems with deep green foliage and medium-sized, round, bright red tomatoes with a classic, slightly flattened shape.
Cold-hardy varieties excel in early season with disease resistance.

‘Moskvich’ is another early-season variety. It’s grown in some of the coldest regions of the U.S. because it can withstand cooler air than other tomatoes. Include ‘Moskvich’ in succession 1. 

‘New Girl’

Vigorous vines with lush, dark green leaves and uniform, firm, smooth-skinned red fruits.
Medium-sized fruits from cold-hardy varieties enhance any dish.

‘New Girl’ tomatoes are also early-season. They taste amazing and can handle diseases and pests. The medium-sized fruits are great for stews and salads. This is another batch 1 variety. 

‘Sungold Cherry Tomato’

Delicate, feathery foliage with clusters of small, round, golden-orange tomatoes with thin, shiny skin.
Enjoy sweet and tangy cherries from summer through fall.

‘Sungold’ cherry tomatoes are a staple cherry tomato. They’ll last from summer until fall and produce big, bountiful harvests. They’re slightly sweet, with good acidity and flavor. Try growing ‘Sungold’ cherries in round 2. 

‘Cherokee Carbon’

Freshly harvested large, hefty, dusky pink-orange fruits with a grayish-purple hue on top, featuring a slightly ribbed texture and rich color.
Big, flavorful fruits keep producing until the frost hits.

This big, juicy, and flavorful variety is indeterminate and will produce fruit until the first frost. It’s perfect for salads, stews, or sauces. Include these seeds in batch 2. 

‘Beefy Purple’

Close-up of a large, red tomato with an uneven, bloated shape, with mottled green markings all over its smooth, shiny skin.
Add giant, flavorful purple fruits to your second succession lineup.

‘Beefy Purple’ is another giant variety that produces massive and flavorful fruits. It has purple flesh and plenty of tomato flavor. This is another great batch 2 variety. 

‘Roma’

Compact growth with dense, green foliage and elongated, oval-shaped red and green fruits with firm, thick skin.
This classic variety is perfect for canning and making sauces.

‘Roma’ is a classic variety that’s popular in sauces. It’s one of the many paste tomatoes that can be stewed down. Plant these tomatoes in batch 2 and preserve them by canning or making sauces. 

‘Piennolo Red’

The gardener's hand shows a twisting vine with small, deep red, pear-shaped tomatoes with thick, slightly wrinkled skin.
Great for preserving, staying fresh well after harvest.

‘Piennolo Red’ is one of the best varieties for batch 3. These tomatoes will stay fresh for months after harvesting. Keep them on their vines and store them in a cool, dry area. 

Step 2: Start Your First Tray

A gardener in a red T-shirt sows tomato seeds in seed starting trays filled with soil on a wooden table in the garden.
Sow trays in early spring with cold-tolerant varieties to kickstart your season.

Start your first tray roughly two months before your last frost date. Go to The Old Farmer’s Almanac, type in your zip code, and find your average last frost date. In coastal California, you’ll start your tray in January. In Michigan, the last frost date is in May, so you’ll plant your first succession in March. 

Fill your tray with a high-quality potting mix for tomatoes. Or you can make your mixture with compost, perlite, sand, and potting soil. 

For the first tray, plant cool-tolerant varieties such as ‘New Girl’, ‘Early Girl’, and ‘Glacier.’ These plants tolerate colder air temperatures, so you’ll get your first round of tomatoes in the ground early. 

Step 3: Plant Two Seeds Per Cell of Each Variety

Close-up of soil blocks with freshly sown tiny seeds, two per block.
Plant two seeds per cell for a varied harvest.

The trick to this tomato-growing strategy is diversifying your garden with multiple varieties, not a ton of the same. To do this, plant two seeds per cell. If you’re using a 16-cell seed starting tray, grow 16 varieties. If you’re using a 24-cell tray, why not grow 24? 

Step 4: Label Your Cells

Close-up of a gardener in a red t-shirt labeling seed trays with wooden sticks on a wooden table in the garden.
Keep track of your plants with labeled wooden sticks.

Label your cells with biodegradable wooden plant labels or popsicle sticks. This will help you keep your crop organized. When they mature, transplant them in the ground with their labels so you don’t get confused. 

Step 5: Thin Your Plants Out

A close-up of a starter tray containing tiny tomato sprouts with thin stems and small, elongated cotyledons.
Thin your seedlings, keeping the healthiest one for success.

No matter your strategy, once your tomato plants start growing, you’ll want to thin them out. Carefully remove the weaker of the two seedlings. You’ll only need one of each plant for this strategy to work. The trick is keeping it healthy. 

You can keep the second plant if you want. If both seedlings look healthy, separate them and transplant the other plant to a new container or cell. 

Step 5: Start Your Second Tray

A gardener in a red t-shirt plants cherry tomato seeds in seed starting trays on a wooden table, with a seed packet standing in front of the labeled trays.
Plant the next tray after the first succession grows.

The next important step in this strategy is to start another tray later in the season. Wait until a month or two after starting your first tray. For example, if you started your first tray in March, you’ll wait until April or May to start the second one. 

You can plant less cold-hardy cultivars since the soil temperature will be warm by the time you plant them. This batch will be ready for planting 7 to 11 weeks after you start them. 

The beauty in this is you can get them in the ground earlier or later, depending on how your first batch is doing. Grow cultivars that produce abundant fruit for salads and sauces. 

Step 6: Plant Your First Batch in the Ground

A woman’s hands gently plant a young tomato seedling with vibrant, serrated leaves in rich, dark brown loose soil under bright sunlight.
Plant early types first, then move onto second-round trays.

By the time your second tray of seedlings emerges, your first tray of tomatoes should be ready for planting in the ground. The first batch should comprise cold-hardy and pest and disease-resistant cultivars

Diseases and pests can be extra problematic in the early spring. And the weather is notoriously unpredictable. Your first batch will take on the unpredictable elements of the early season. If some of them don’t make it, you’ll have your second and third trays as backup.  

Once the soil is above 60°F (16°C), plant your seedlings in a designated space in your garden. Make sure the soil is well-drained. Add a thin layer of mulch over them to keep the soil from drying out. 

Step 7: Start Your Third Tray

Close-up of seed trays filled with soil and seeds, each labeled with wooden sticks, in a greenhouse.
Start your late-season tray for fresh harvests through winter.

By now, you’ve staggered enough tomatoes at different times to set up harvests throughout the year. Start your third, late-season tray in mid-summer

Try switching up your cultivars to include types that store well, such as ‘Piennolo Red.’ You’ll harvest these tomatoes late in the year and they’ll last for several months stored on their vine. They’ll need a cool, dry space to store properly and maintain their freshness long into the winter. 

If you live in colder climates, try growing cold-hardy tomatoes. Fall frosts will kill the plants, so choose varieties that can handle the cool air. 

Step 8: Plant Your Second Batch

A gardener in black gloves plants young green tomato seedlings in soil in a garden.
The next batch will thrive as your first begins to ripen.

After starting your third tray, your second batch should be ready for planting. Choose an area near your first batch of vines, which should be approaching maturity

If your first succession succumbs to disease or cold and isn’t fairing well, get your second batch in the ground early. These seedlings will make up for what you lost. 

Ideally, all your plants will be thriving. By the time your second batch matures, your first batch will be producing its first round of ripe fruits

Step 9: Plant Your Third Batch

Young seedlings with small, green leaves grow through a layer of mulch in the garden.
Protect your plants with row covers and extra mulch.

Once your seedlings have more than four leaves and are around 4 to 8 inches tall, it’s time to plant them. This late-season planting will give you tomatoes until the very end of fall. 

After planting, consider using row covers and extra mulch to give them extra protection. If you have a greenhouse, you can choose to plant this batch in containers instead. Use heating pads or a heater when the winter arrives, and your tomatoes may last until the new year. 

Key Takeaways

By practicing successive planting, you’re harvesting different varieties and batches at various times. Just when one plant ripens, the other is just getting started. You’ll harvest ripe tomatoes from spring to winter

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Small tomato seedlings in black trays with vibrant green leaves on a sunlit indoor windowsill.

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