How to Grow, Plant, and Care For Split Leaf Philodendron

Throughout the houseplant popularity boom, large and leafy plants have been in high demand. From the ever-popular monstera to the towering fiddle leaf fig, it’s clear that big, bold foliage is here to stay. In the search for something a little more unique, another contender has entered the spotlight: the split leaf philodendron.

Often grown outdoors, these plants have steadily made their way into the hearts of houseplant enthusiasts. They’re hardy and adaptable, thriving in both indoor and outdoor settings, provided they’re in the right hardiness zone and given a suitable growing environment.

However, there’s quite a bit of confusion surrounding both the common and scientific names of this plant. In this guide, we’ll clear up the misconceptions and cover everything you need to know to keep your split leaf philodendron healthy, thriving, and impressively large.

What Is It?

Split leaf philodendrons are are often mistaken for Monstera deliciosa or given the same nickname—Swiss cheese plant. They also have several botanical names, sometimes used interchangeably and even across different genera.

So, let’s clear up some of the misconceptions.

Firstly, split leaf philodendrons are not the same as monsteras. The common name Swiss cheese plant is typically attributed to Monstera deliciosa, but it’s occasionally used to describe the split leaf philodendron as well, even though they are entirely different plants.

To make matters even more confusing, the name split leaf philodendron is sometimes incorrectly used for monsteras, too. While they both belong to the same plant family (Araceae) they come from completely different genera.

According to Kew’s Plants of the World Online, the scientific name for the split leaf philodendron is Philodendron bipinnatifidum. You’ll often see these plants labeled as Philodendron bipinnatifidum or Philodendron selloum in nurseries and online stores.

The most important thing to remember is that the split leaf philodendron is not the same as a monstera, even though they may look similar. And despite common labeling, it is not a true philodendron, no matter what some plant tags or plant owners may claim.

History

Split leaf philodendrons have been studied for many years. In the 19th century, Heinrich Wilhelm Schott, a philodendron enthusiast, classified Philodendron bipinnatifidum and Philodendron selloum as two separate species.

However, research indicated these plants were genetically very similar, with only minor anatomical differences that didn’t justify separating them into distinct species. Since Philodendron bipinnatifidum was the first name published, it was selected as the accepted species name.

Originally, the plant was placed in the Meconostigma subgenus. But in 2018, scientists recommended that this subgenus be elevated to its own genus. The new genus is Thaumatophyllum.

As a result, Philodendron bipinnatifidum became Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum in online plant databases. But from 2024 onward, the scientific name revered back to Philodendron bipinnatifidum.

Because the change is so recent, the plant is still commonly referred to as Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum or even Philodendron selloum. If you ask for one by any of these names at a nursery, they’ll almost certainly know what you’re referring to.

Native Area

Philodendron bipinnatifidum is native to South America, found in the tropical rainforests of central regions of the continent. It is especially common in Brazil, Argentina, Paraguay, and Bolivia, and has also spread north into the forests of Central America, including Belize.

In its native habitat, P. bipinnatifidum can grow over 10 feet tall and just as wide. The plant develops large, sturdy stems capable of supporting its weight, but it also has the ability to attach itself to nearby trees for additional support as it grows.

Characteristics

These shrubs have deep green, triangular leaves. As the common name suggests, the leaves develop splits along the sides, giving them a ruffled texture. They can grow impressively large, reaching over 3 feet in length under the right conditions.

The plant is supported by a thick central stem, with strong leaf stems that can hold up the weight of the foliage. This makes them ideal for cutting and displaying in vases as a decorative indoor feature.

When grown indoors, they are naturally limited by pot size and ceiling height, typically reaching a maximum height of around 6 feet. While the leaves will still grow large with the right care, they won’t be quite as massive as those grown outdoors.

One key feature that sets them apart from the similar monstera is their ability to support themselves. You can also distinguish between the two by examining the leaves: monsteras have holes within the leaf surface, known as fenestrations, while split leaf philodendrons develop only side slits with no internal holes.

Planting

Split leaf philodendrons are often grown as houseplants due to their love of tropical conditions and their ability to adapt well to indoor environments. However, they can also be planted outdoors in the right regions.

Regardless of where you plan to grow yours, it’s important to start with a healthy plant. When purchasing from a local nursery, inspect the plant carefully for any signs of pests, diseases, or growth issues. Avoid bringing home a compromised plant, as problems can easily spread to the rest of your collection.

Also, double-check that the plant you’re buying is indeed a split leaf philodendron. As discussed earlier, name confusion is common, and this can lead to mistakes in care. While Philodendron bipinnatifidum and monsteras have similar needs, they are not identical and require slightly different conditions.

If you plan to grow your plant indoors, it will likely be content in the nursery pot it came in for at least a few months before needing repotting. If you’d prefer to place it in a more decorative container, you can do so using the repotting guidelines outlined below.

For outdoor planting, choose a plant that has been acclimatized to those conditions. If your philodendron was displayed in the indoor plant section, it was likely grown in a greenhouse and may struggle with direct sun exposure. In that case, opt for a spot with dappled shade, such as under a tree. Split leaf philodendrons make a striking addition to tropical-style gardens, especially when paired with ferns and other lush foliage.

Only plant outdoors if your local climate stays above 50°F (10°C) year-round, as colder temperatures can damage or kill the plant.

How to Grow

When it comes to growing these plants, they can thrive both indoors and outdoors—as long as their environmental conditions are just right. Whether inside or out, you’ll need to provide the correct amount of light, a soil type suited to split leaf philodendrons, proper watering, and a balanced fertilizer with the right pH.

Let’s take a closer look at what these plants need to stay healthy and grow to their full potential.

Light

When grown indoors, these plants prefer plenty of bright, indirect light throughout the day and can even tolerate some direct morning sun.

In their native habitats, these plants often grow in full sun when temperatures are mild. They tend to grow larger and more quickly in these conditions. However, most plants sold for indoor use are accustomed to greenhouse environments and may suffer from leaf burn when suddenly exposed to full sun.

If you have a sunny spot in your home and want your philodendron to grow large and lush, it’s best to introduce it to direct sunlight gradually. Start by placing the plant near a south-facing window with a sheer curtain. Begin with just a few hours of morning sun in spring, when the light is less intense, and slowly increase exposure over time. If the leaves show signs of burning, continue using the curtain to diffuse the light.

Avoid exposing the leaves to harsh afternoon sun during summer, especially when filtered through glass, as this can cause significant damage.

While they can survive in moderate to low light if their other needs are met, growth will be slower and less vigorous. For healthy, moderate growth, bright indirect light or some gentle morning sun in front of an east-facing window is your best option.

Water

Similar to other philodendrons, such as the pink princess philodendron, Philodendron bipinnatifidum prefers soil that stays consistently moist but never soggy or waterlogged. Excessive moisture can quickly lead to root and stem rot at the base of the plant.

For young plants, water when the top inch of soil has dried out. Larger plants in bigger pots—where the soil retains more moisture—should be watered once the top 2 to 3 inches of soil are dry.

To check soil moisture, use your finger or a wooden skewer. If the soil still feels damp or if the skewer comes out with soil clinging to it, hold off on watering for a few days. A moisture meter can also be helpful and serves the same purpose.

This method of monitoring soil moisture is far safer than watering on a fixed weekly schedule. Environmental conditions such as temperature, humidity, and light vary and can cause the soil to dry out faster or slower. Sticking to a rigid schedule can easily lead to over- or underwatering.

If your philodendron has been overwatered, the leaves will begin to turn yellow, and the thick stems may become soft and mushy. In severe cases of root rot, the roots lose the ability to absorb water and nutrients, which prevents moisture from reaching the leaves and stems.

To save an overwatered plant, repot it into fresh soil and trim any affected roots. If left untreated, root rot can kill the plant.

On the other hand, an underwatered split leaf philodendron will begin to wilt. The leaves are thin and do not store much moisture, so they quickly show signs of stress. Brown tips on the leaves are another indicator of underwatering.

Soil

Split leaf philodendrons grow best in soil that is rich in nutrients and drains well.

When growing indoors, it’s important to use a specialized soil mix to account for the slower drying time compared to outdoor conditions. The soil needs to be very light and well-draining to prevent root rot, while still retaining enough moisture to keep the roots hydrated.

Most general houseplant soil mixes are suitable for this plant. These mixes typically include a combination of materials that create the ideal environment for indoor container growth.

If you grow and repot houseplants frequently, making your own soil mix can be a more cost-effective solution. It also gives you the flexibility to tailor the mixture to the plant’s specific needs and to the environmental conditions in your home.

The perlite will increase the spaces between the soil particles, improving drainage and aeration. The coconut coir retains moisture but doesn’t weigh down the mixture. Coconut coir is a sustainable alternative to peat moss, so you can replace it with that if you already have some on hand.

If they are kept in lower lighting conditions, they may need some extra help with drainage as the soil will dry out slower than it would in full sun. Add a handful or two of bark to the mixture, depending on the size of the pot, to improve drainage and consistency.

Temperature and Humidity

Accustomed to rainforest conditions, this plant requires high temperatures and humidity to thrive. It does not tolerate cold well and will struggle in dry environments.

Keep indoor temperatures comfortable and consistent year-round, ideally between 65 and 80°F (18-27°C). Growth slows significantly below 60°F (16°C), and temperatures below 50°F (10°C) can cause serious tissue damage. Similarly, growth may stall in extreme heat due to heat stress.

Thanks to its tropical origins, the plant also requires high humidity. While it can maintain growth at levels above 40%, it thrives best in humidity between 60% and 70%. If humidity drops below 40%, you may notice browning at the tips of the leaves.

To raise humidity around the plant, try grouping several houseplants together, or place it in a naturally humid room like a bathroom or kitchen. A humidifier is another effective option, helping to recreate the ideal conditions not only for your split leaf philodendron but for other houseplants as well.

Be sure to monitor seasonal changes in temperature and humidity. Keep the plant away from cold drafts in winter, such as those from open windows, and protect it from direct airflow from air conditioners in summer. Heaters can also dry out the air, reducing humidity levels indoors.

Fertilizing

All plants require certain nutrients to thrive. The macronutrients—nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium—are the most important. However, secondary nutrients like calcium and magnesium, along with micronutrients such as boron and iron, also play vital roles in overall plant health.

Plants absorb these nutrients from the soil, transported through the roots along with the water they draw up. In containers, the nutrients are not replenished naturally. Once they are used up, there’s nothing left to sustain the plant’s growth.

That’s where fertilizer comes in.

Fertilizer replenishes essential nutrients in the soil, maintaining healthy growth. It typically contains a combination of macro- and micronutrients, along with filler materials to aid in distribution.

Most houseplant fertilizers are water-soluble and are applied by diluting them and pouring over the soil as part of your regular watering routine. There are also slow-release fertilizers that gradually provide nutrients each time the plant is watered.

When it comes to fertilizing split leaf philodendrons, regular feeding is usually not necessary. These fast-growing plants require frequent repotting, which refreshes the soil and supplies new nutrients each year or two.

However, if your plant has been in the same pot for several years, is showing signs of nutrient deficiency, or has stopped growing, fertilizer may help restore its health.

A balanced houseplant fertilizer will work well, or you can opt for one higher in nitrogen to promote strong leaf and stem growth. Only fertilize during the active growing season in spring and summer, and always follow the instructions on the packaging to avoid overfertilizing.

Maintenance

Split leaf philodendrons are not high-maintenance plants. With just a few basic houseplant care practices, needed only every couple of months, you can keep your plant looking as good as the day you brought it home.

Dust and debris often collect on the plant’s large leaves. This buildup can hinder photosynthesis and transpiration, ultimately affecting overall growth. Every few months, gently wipe the leaves with a damp cloth to remove the layer of dust and keep the foliage looking healthy and vibrant.

As the plant matures, occasional pruning may be needed to remove dying or damaged leaves. These leaves can drain energy from the plant as it tries to repair them, slowing down new growth. Removing them promptly helps redirect the plant’s energy to healthy, thriving foliage.

Always use a clean, sharp pair of scissors (or a knife for thicker stems) and make your cut just above a leaf node. This encourages new growth from the site of the cut.

Propagation

Split leaf philodendrons can be propagated by air layering, but this method requires more technical skill and patience than others. Propagation from seed is also possible, but these plants rarely produce seeds when grown indoors. For the best chance of success and ease, stem cuttings are the preferred method.

To get started, you’ll only need a clean, disinfected knife. Select a healthy stem with strong leaf growth and cut just below a node—the point where the leaf meets the main stem.

You can place the cutting in a glass of water or plant it directly into a pot filled with a specialized propagating mix. While roots can develop in water, propagating in soil generally produces stronger, more reliable roots for long-term growth.

For soil propagation, use a light mix of coconut coir, perlite, and vermiculite. This combination provides minimal resistance for delicate new roots and drains well enough to prevent rot.

After planting, place the cutting in a warm, humid location to encourage root development. Rooting typically takes a few weeks. Once the roots are about an inch or two long, transplant the cutting into a larger pot filled with the recommended potting mix.

Repotting

These quick-growing plants enjoy having plenty of space. With regular repotting, they can easily reach up to 6 feet tall indoors, becoming a striking houseplant feature.

Smaller plants should be repotted every year, as they quickly outgrow their containers. Larger, more established plants can be repotted every one to two years. Once the plant has reached its full size, you can keep it in the same pot, but the soil will need to be refreshed every 3 to 4 years, as it breaks down over time and loses its ability to retain moisture and nutrients.

If you notice roots growing through the drainage holes or your plant stops growing during the active spring and summer months, it may be time to repot sooner.

The typical rule of moving up one or two pot sizes doesn’t always apply to split leaf philodendrons. These plants grow rapidly and need ample space to support their large root systems. A larger pot is also better at anchoring the plant’s weight, preventing it from toppling over.

Use your judgment based on the plant’s size and growth rate to select a suitable new pot. Avoid going too large, though, as excess soil can retain too much moisture and increase the risk of root rot. Aim for a balance: room to grow, but not so much that the plant becomes waterlogged.

Common Problems

Like all plants, the split leaf philodendron comes with its own set of potential problems. The most common issues are typically related to watering—both too much and too little—as well as pests and diseases.

Let’s take a closer look at some of the most frequent problems you might encounter, along with a few troubleshooting tips to help you get your plant back on track.

Yellow Leaves

One of the most common problems in split leaf philodendrons—and in many houseplants—is yellowing leaves. While there are several possible causes, the most likely culprit is overwatering.

When the soil stays too wet, the roots begin to rot. Once damaged, they can no longer transport water and nutrients effectively throughout the plant, causing the leaves to turn yellow. In severe cases, the stems may also become mushy, particularly around the base of the plant near the soil line.

Trim off any affected roots and repot the plant into fresh, well-draining soil. Root rot can be difficult to treat, so early intervention is key.

Other potential causes of yellowing leaves include nutrient imbalances, exposure to incorrect temperatures or humidity levels, and underwatering. Take a close look at your plant and its growing conditions to determine the most likely cause, then adjust your care routine accordingly.

Stretching

While these plants tolerate low light relatively well, extremely low light (or ‘no light’) conditions will lead to growth issues. One of the most common problems is stretching, as the stems and leaves extend toward the nearest light source.

This leggy growth results in a weakened plant. This cannot be reversed, even if lighting conditions improve later on. The best approach is prevention: keep your split leaf philodendron in bright, indirect light for most of the day to maintain healthy, compact growth.

Unbalanced Growth

You may notice the large leaves of your split leaf philodendron turning toward the light source. This natural behavior helps the plant maximize photosynthesis by exposing more leaf surface to the light.

However, over time, this causes imbalanced growth. All the leaves may begin to face one direction, and the plant may produce larger or more frequent new leaves on the side closest to the light.

To prevent this, rotate the pot once a week to ensure all sides of the plant receive even light exposure. This simple habit promotes balanced, symmetrical growth.

Brown Leaves

Like yellowing leaves, brown leaves are also a common issue. Browning at the leaf tips typically indicates a moisture problem—either underwatering or low humidity.

Brown leaves can also result from exposure to intense direct sunlight. Just like people, plants can get sunburned. To prevent sun damage, cover the light source with a sheer curtain during the hottest parts of the day, especially if your plant is near a south- or west-facing window.

Frequently Asked Questions