5 Signs Your Pumpkins Are Ready to Harvest

Whether you’re growing giant pumpkins for Halloween decor or a small ornamental type, it’s time to start thinking about harvesting them. Join organic farmer Jenna Rich and learn five signs your pumpkins are ready to harvest.

Written by Jenna Rich Horticulture review by Sarah Jay Last updated: September 28, 2024 | 4 min read

A shot of multiple orange vegetable crops in a wooden container that may have been pumpkins ready to harvest

Contents

The leaves are transitioning from green to burnt orange, mustard yellow, and brick red. Overnight lows are crisp and cool. Kids are back in school. It must be fall!

Pumpkins aren’t just for carving or working into your fall decor. Their creamy interior flesh is versatile in the kitchen, too. They can be baked, roasted, made into purées, and simmered into soups. They’re high in crucial vitamins like A, C, and E and offer a healthy daily fiber and protein dose.

If you have pumpkins growing in your garden but aren’t sure when they’re ready for harvest, I have five tell-tale signs to know when the timing is correct so you don’t mistakenly harvest too early or miss the boat on these lovely fall crops. Let’s jump in.

Days To Maturity

A round orange vegetable crop with streaks of light yellow on some soil ground surrounded by various green plants. — These crops will mature within 85 to 120 days, depending on its variety.

Depending on the variety, size, and climate, pumpkins will mature in 85 to 120 days or more. The lower end of this number will apply to dwarf and miniature pumpkins and ornamental gourds, whereas large Jack ‘o’ Lantern-style pumpkins and giant pumpkins will take much longer. Here are some of my favorites to consider:

‘Casperita’ is a white, ornamental pumpkin that matures in 75 to 80 days. Use these as a background for kids’ painting activities.
‘Ho w den’ is a traditional pumpkin, perfect for fall decor and Halloween decorations. This cultivar has been around since the 1970s and takes about 110 days to mature.
‘Big Max’ will take closer to 120 days when thinned to one fruit per vine, giving you lots of pumpkin for pies and canning.

Note the days estimated to maturity in your sowing schedule and the first harvest date. Mark your calendar to remind yourself to look for the following signs of ripeness. The days to maturity listed on seed packets are estimated based on mild climates and ideal conditions. Results will vary if the season is particularly hot, dry, cold, or rainy.

Check on pumpkins around the estimated harvest window and take notes if they’re ready so you have a record of their progress. Northern growers may leave the pumpkins on the vine until the first light frost, which may sweeten up the internal flesh. Leaving it much longer will cause the insides to become soft and mushy.

Pro tip: It’s better to harvest a little early than late, so if you’re going on vacation when you think they’ll be ready, harvest them, wash them off, and place them in a warm place like a back patio out of direct sunlight. Like tomatoes, they’ll ripen a bit once off the vine. Take extra caution to avoid nicking the skin, as it’s more tender and vulnerable than vine-ripened pumpkins.

Skin Thickness and Strength

A close-up shot of an orange vegetable crop showcasing is deep colors and creases in its skin. — Use your fingernails to check if they can dent or puncture the crop’s skin.

Pumpkins need thick and durable external skin to make it through the fall and winter, and this is an easy way to check if they are ready to harvest The skin prevents the innards from spoiling.

Using a fingernail, try puncturing the skin. If you can dent or puncture the pumpkin, give it more time and check back in a week or so. Harvesting now will not give you a good result.

Stem and Vines

A close-up shot of a patch of range vegetable crops showcasing their bright hue and long deep green stems and vines on dark moist soil. — The stem with a “curly-que” will brown when the crop is ready for picking.

Similar to watermelons, another member of the cucurbit family, the “curly-que” near the stem on the vine, will be brown and withered when the fruit is ready for picking. The stem will also lose all its give and become stiff and woody. The vines will wilt and brown when the plant has nearly finished ripening the pumpkin.

The area where the stem meets the vine will also have a lovely pumpkin smell. If it smells earthy or “green,” give it more time to develop the pumpkin scent. If the rest of the maturity signs are present, check back in three to five days to sniff the stem again.

Hollow Knocking Sound

A shot of a person wearing a plaid long sleeved shirt, holding an orange vegetable crop in an outdoor area. — If the sound is dense, the crop may need more time on the vine.

Pick up the pumpkin and give it a swift thump with your knuckle, like you’re knocking on a door. If you hear a hollow sound in return, it’s probably ready. Otherwise, you’ll hear an empty, dense sound indicating it needs more time on the vine.

Color

What does the color of the pumpkin on the seed packet look like, and how does it compare to what you see in your garden? While the color may not be exact, you shouldn’t harvest light orange or green pumpkins. They’re just not ready yet!

The shade deepens as it gets closer to full maturity. For instance, a classic orange pumpkin will be a deep, autumnal shade when it’s ready to harvest versus the Crayola® orange it used to be.

Some varieties are genetically modified to have visible warts when they’re ready to harvest. If you weren’t expecting your pumpkin to have warts, the lesions may indicate a bacterial infection, pest damage, or increased sugar content.

Harvesting

A close up shot of a person wearing
jeans and white gardening gloves using a clean pruner to cut above the stem of an orange vegetable crop. — Cut a few inches of the stem above the crop for ease of transport and a tasteful look.

Use the five tips I’ve laid out to ensure you harvest pumpkins at the proper time. Use clean, sharp shears or pruners to ensure a clean cut on the stem to avoid disease getting inside that could cause rot and decrease the storage ability. Cut a few inches above the pumpkin for easy transport and aesthetics. Clean the outside of the pumpkin after harvest if disease is suspected.

Cure pumpkins outside in your garden only if you’re expecting dry conditions. Otherwise, place them in a greenhouse or barn where temperatures are about 80°F (27°C) and humidity is between 80% and 85%. Position them out of direct sunlight and provide good air circulation. Proper curing hardens the external skin, which will lengthen the storability. Store cured pumpkins in a dry, cool place for three to seven months.

Tips To Growing Great Pumpkins

A shot of a patch of multiple orange vegetable crops outdoors in a farm area during a sunny afternoon. — Crops that are improperly picked or damaged may fail to produce seeds.

Pick the right variety for your climate.
Avoid planting them when there is still a chance of frost.
Plant them in full sun in well-draining, rich soil.
Ensure proper fertilization so they can grow to their full size and nutrition potential.
Plant them before late June to mid-July if you want them for Halloween carvings.
Allow plants enough space to vine out and prune accordingly.
Protect them from borers and other pests by keeping them off the soil as much as possible. A layer of straw mulch around plants will help.
Deep-water consistently until the color is ideal, then cut back for about 10 days before harvesting.

Pumpkins harvested too early, damaged by hard frost, or not properly cured may fail to produce viable seeds for next year, so follow these tips for pumpkin harvesting and storage success!