How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Pumpkin-On-a-Stick

Pumpkin-on-a-stick grows for its ornamental value as a little pumpkin-shaped fruit that lines woody stems. Masquerading as the autumnal gourd, this mini pumpkin is really an eggplant (an eggplant!) that’s decorative and also edible, especially in its early stages, with a mild, peppery flavor.

A conundrum-on-a-stick, these little “pumpkin” eggplants also resemble squatty green tomatoes in their early development. The unusual ornamental delights and surprises in late summer and fall. In the season of all things pumpkin, consider adding one more to the garden to complete those autumn displays. They’re perfect for inspiring budding gardeners, too.

What is Pumpkin-on-a-Stick?

These petite eggplants belong to the Solanaceae, or nightshade, family, along with tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, and numerous others. Native to Africa and a relative of wild species, they spread through colonialism and widely through trade out of Africa and Asia. Solanum aethiopicum arrived in the U.S. in the late 1800s, noteworthy for its unique ornament.

Also called mock tomato, pumpkin tree, and scarlet eggplant, the eggs are edible with a mild flavor in the early green stages when the skin is shiny and are popular in stir-fries. As they ripen and mature to the red stage, bitterness increases.

Pair the ornamentals with summer-flowering perennials and annuals for interest in the display bed. Marigolds make showy companions that help deter pests. Add them to the herb and vegetable garden to spice up the arrangement and selection.

Use the globes in fresh floral arrangements or dry them for years of decoration. Fresh-cut stems have a long vase life lasting two to four weeks. Or, pick individual fruits to display.

To dry them, harvest the branches and hang them in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight until the stems and leaves are completely dry. In warm, dry climates, they’ll dry on the plant.

Characteristics

Fruits begin green and squat, gaining ribs as they ripen to scarlet and mature to deep orange. Each egg is two to five inches in diameter.

The plants resemble eggplants we know, growing two to three feet wide with upright, dark, woody stems. Large leaves are blue-green. The stems and leaves are thorny, with prickles on the mid-ribs and bigger purple thorns on the branches.

From July to September, small clusters of starry, purplish-white flowers appear and lead to fruit development just in time for fall. Two to three fruits usually develop from each cluster.

Pumpkin-on-a-stick is low-maintenance with few problems, though it can experience pests and diseases typical of nightshades. And while the wicked thorns deter most predation, they may not stop a hungry rabbit from nibbling the bright fruit. But what’s cuter than a bunny munching on a tiny pumpkin?

Native Area

S. aethiopicum likely originates in West Africa, where it grows in warm, tropical conditions. As a tropical, they don’t tolerate low temperatures. They grow on woodland savannas in well-draining soils and don’t withstand waterlogged conditions.

These are tender perennials in regions where they are hardy (USDA zones 10-12) and grow as warm-season annuals elsewhere.

Planting

Pumpkin-on-a-stick matches the growing requirements of other eggplants and those of tomatoes and peppers. Plant them in spring to grow over the summer for late-season fruits.

As frost-sensitive growers, they require warm air and soil for the best growth. They grow quickly from seed, with seedlings ready to move outdoors a week or two after the last frost and as nighttime temperatures are above 55°F (13°C). Growth takes off with warming summer temperatures.

If feasible at planting, opt for a spot where you haven’t grown nightshades in the past year. Nightshades transmit diseases among the group, and crop rotation helps prevent the spread of any lingering fungus or bacteria in the soil.

Place seedlings two to three feet apart to provide plenty of air circulation. Staking may be necessary to support stems once heavy fruits set. Alternatively, employ a tomato cage when the plant goes in the ground. Staking lets the ornaments shine.

Transplanting 

When springtime conditions are frost-free and temperatures warm, seedlings started indoors benefit from a hardening-off period. A week to 10 days of gradual outdoor exposure allows the tender plants to acclimate to growing conditions.

Move the seedlings outside to a protected area, out of direct afternoon sunlight and winds. Gradually moving them to conditions mirroring their new garden location will strengthen the new plants.

How to Grow

Pumpkin-on-a-stick is easy to grow in its preferred conditions of full sun, even moisture, and well-draining soils. Incorporated in the garden bed, you may forget it’s there until it starts to show off late-season.

Light

S. aethiopicum needs full sun for strong flowering and fruiting. Six or more hours is best.

Morning sun in the mix is ideal, and In southern climates with hot summers, plants benefit from protection from direct afternoon rays. The intense midday sun can burn leaves and fruits. 

Water

One to two inches of water per week works well for these eggplants. Consistent moisture with regular, deep watering is best to avoid water fluctuations, which lead to problems like blossom end rot. Overly wet soils contribute to fungal diseases. 

Check the soil moisture during dry spells to determine increased water needs. If the soil feels dry one to two inches below the surface, it’s time to water.

Watering at the ground level is best to avoid splashing the leaves, which promotes disease issues. Hand-water at the base of the plant, or use drip irrigation or soaker hoses for consistent, low-pressure volume to direct water to the roots. If overhead irrigation is your best option, water in the morning so leaves dry throughout the day.

Soil

Like tomatoes, pumpkin-on-a-stick thrives in organically rich, loamy soils with good drainage. Slightly acidic soils with a pH between 6.0 and 6.8 are ideal. They adapt to lesser soils as long as they’re well-draining.

Add a generous three- to six-inch layer of compost to the bed for soil enrichment. Compost helps with aeration, moisture retention, drainage, and nutrition throughout the growing season.

Temperature and Humidity

The late-season producer flourishes in the summer heat. Ideal growing temperatures are between 60-85°F or 16-29°C (and ideally above 75°F or 24°C), with starting temperatures above 55°F (13°C) and soil temperatures above 60°F (16°C). 

Promote air circulation through appropriate spacing in areas with high humidity and rainfall. While tropical, the ornamental veggies are susceptible to fungal problems fostered by humid, damp situations.

Fertilizing

As a heavy producer, scarlet eggplant benefits from added nutrients for the best vigor, flowering, and fruiting throughout the growing season. Use fish emulsion for seedlings and at planting. Continue with seaweed and bone meal during flowering and fruiting. These amendments also add needed calcium to the soil.

A low-nitrogen fertilizer formulated for tomatoes with an NPK ratio similar to 8-32-16 or 6-24-24 works well for eggplants. A higher phosphorous (P) rate and a lower nitrogen (N) level are best to ensure fast flowering and quality fruiting. Too much nitrogen leads to leafy foliage but causes a lack of flowers and other problems.

Maintenance

Pumpkin-on-a-stick needs little maintenance aside from staking the mini-pumpkin-laden stems. Cut off any cracked or damaged stems should they appear. Snip any offshoots that spring up at the plant’s base to direct energy into existing growth.

In addition to meeting basic cultural requirements, an important step is mulching, which helps with moisture retention, weed suppression, and soil temperature regulation. Clean, weed-free straw, compost, leaf mulch, bark, or aged woodchips do the job.

Propagation

This heirloom propagates most easily from seed. It also grows from vegetative cuttings rooted in water or potting media, but often, there’s not enough time to grow them out before cold temperatures.

They make sensitive houseplants, but experimenting is always fun; give them plenty of light if you try to root and grow them indoors over the winter. Otherwise, they grow quickly and easily from a recommended springtime sowing, started indoors or direct-sown.

Growing From Seed

To get seeds going in the ground, direct sow when soil temperatures are 60°F (16°C) or above. Seeds germinate in about two weeks. They’re ready for fresh eating 65-75 days from transplanting. Their bright red coloration begins as cooling temperatures trigger ripening.

To get a jumpstart on growth, start seeds indoors about six weeks before your area’s expected last frost date in spring.

Common Problems

While usually problem-free, the petite producers are susceptible to common pests and diseases. The best control is prevention by maintaining optimal cultural requirements. Consistent watering, air circulation, soil health, and crop rotation are key components to overall health. Take care not to overfertilize; excessive nitrogen leads to weak, leafy growth susceptible to disease. 

Enjoy companion plants like marigolds, catmint, and oregano alongside eggplants to draw beneficial insects and promote plant health. Follow application guidelines when applying organic and food-safe pest and disease controls to avoid impacting healthy plants and pollinators.

Pests

The best way to control insects is to scout them early. The same pests that visit tomatoes and peppers may find their way to the eggplants. 

Tomato Hornworm

Hornworms are ravenous caterpillars that blend in among green leaves. They’re easier to see as they grow big and defoliate stems.

To control hornworms, handpick them off plants and relocate them far from your eggplant. As the larvae of the hawk moth, they become native pollinators. Other nightshades are host plants for this larva.

Hand removal is usually all that’s necessary. Neem oil and biological controls of BT (Bacillus thuringiensis), parasitic wasps, and diatomaceous earth are other methods to get rid of the caterpillars.

Aphids

Aphids are common sap-sucking insects that usually don’t cause significant damage. However, severe infestations cause stress and weakness, including curled leaves and stunted growth. 

To control aphids, spray plants with a stream of water early in the day to deter and knock the pests off leaves and stems. The beneficial insects visiting companion plants prey on aphids and help with control. A simple horticultural soap or oil like neem rids plants of infestation. 

Flea Beetles

Flea beetles are small insects that hop from leaf to leaf, quickly skeletonizing foliage as they go. Most active in the spring, flea beetles are widespread, and several species are prone to nightshades. 

Adult flea beetles feed on tissues. They lay eggs beneath the soil surface, where larvae hatch to feed on tender roots. The larvae develop into adult beetles to feed on the plant. Leaf surfaces become mottled yellow and brown and may skeletonize, with only the veins remaining.

Interplant with plants to repel insects, such as nasturtium, basil, and marigolds. Organic treatments include horticultural oils like neem. Diatomaceous earth applied to the leaf surfaces helps control outbreaks. Row cover inhibits access.

Diseases

Eggplants are prone to a few common disease issues, especially in high-humidity situations. Problems may appear as spotted, mutated, yellowed, or dropped leaves and stunted growth.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew is one of the most common fungal problems. It appears as a grayish-white dust on leaves, buds, and stems. As the spores spread, they deplete energy and nutrition so that leaves turn yellow, distort, and drop during severe infections. 

The fungus spreads quickly but is treatable with early detection and doesn’t usually kill pumpkin-on-a-stick. Handpick affected leaves when possible. For extensive outbreaks, horticultural oils and soaps treat early fungal issues.

Avoid splashing water on the foliage by watering at the base of the stems. Splashing transmits spores and fosters their ideal environment.

Mosaic Virus

Mosaic viruses, such as tobacco and tomato mosaic viruses, sometimes affect nightshades. Leaves get a mottled mosaic pattern in light and dark greens and may curl and distort. 

Mosaic viruses do not have a treatment. The best action is to spot them early and remove infected plants. Also, remove any fallen leaves and debris to prevent the spread.

Blossom End Rot

Blossom end rot is a physiological disorder that likely results from fluctuations in watering and the inability to absorb nutrients, including calcium. Blossom end rot presents when a perfect little “pumpkin” forms and suddenly becomes brown and rotted at the base.

Frequently Asked Questions