11 Plants You Should Always Cut Back in December

Even in its quiet winter state, the garden prepares for new growth. In December, a few trimming tasks remain to set the foundation for successful overwintering and a flourishing spring. Join gardening expert Katherine Rowe in exploring how winter pruning now benefits certain woody plants in the future.

A person using shears to cut off a branch from an apple tree

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The early winter landscape brings the opportunity to assess pruning needs for the season. With heavy frosts underway (except for gardeners in balmy tropical climates), leafless branches and bare stems offer good visibility into form. Some structural trees and shrubs, as well as frost-bitten perennials, benefit from cutting back in December to prepare for spring.

This time of year, most pruning is preventative to promote successful overwintering. It improves form and overall health come spring’s flush of new growth. Save any heavy cutbacks for later in the season before new growth emerges with warming temperatures. Refrain from pruning spring-flowering shrubs like forsythia and azalea now, as we risk losing viable buds whose development is underway on existing stems.

December pruning isn’t heavy-handed, nor is it to overly tidy the landscape, depending on your aesthetic. Consider leaving specimens that benefit from their own insulation, offer unique visual interest, or provide shelter for overwintering pollinators. Here, we’ll look at plants that benefit from getting cut back in December, leaving us plenty of time to warm up indoors after an invigorating garden session.

Pruning Benefits

A hand using a pruner to cut off a grape vine.
Trimming encourages new growth and promotes flowering.

Pruning benefits certain woody plants in a number of ways, while others don’t require it except for managing size or trimming wayward stems.

Pruning is beneficial in:

  • Improving shape and habit while controlling size
  • Increasing airflow and sunlight exposure to stems, leaves, and fruits
  • Encouraging new growth and promoting flowering
  • Preventing disease spread and halting dieback
  • Removing crossing, weak, or dead branches
  • Rejuvenating growth through drastic cutback

Apples

Close-up of ripe green with pinkish blush apples dangle from the apple tree branch amidst lush, green leaves in a sunny garden.
Apples may fruit more next year if they are cut back in December.
common-name common name Apples
botanical-name botanical name Malus pumila
sun-requirements sun requirements Full sun to partial shade
height height 8-25’
hardiness-zones hardiness zones 3-9

After the fall harvest, apples are ready for a winter rest. When they drop their leaves after several heavy frosts in December, cut back dead and damaged branches to make way for a healthy spring flush.

Dead branches will be dry and brittle with a brown interior, without white or green pithy flesh. Cut these back to healthy growth, indicated by dense stems. Damaged branches are those that show signs of rubbing, injury, or disease.

Apples are well-suited to backyard orchards, and dwarf selections start producing two to three years after planting. They rely on cross-pollination to bear fruit, so at least two compatible varieties are necessary (crabapples work, too).

American Wisteria

Vibrant purple American Wisteria flowers, gracefully hanging in groups, catch the warm sunlight, showcasing their delicate petals. The vibrant hue contrasts beautifully with the lush green leaves, forming a picturesque scene of nature's vibrant and harmonious beauty.
Fragrant, pendulous purple blossoms and pinnate leaves intertwine on long, woody stems.
common-name common name American Wisteria
botanical-name botanical name Wisteria frutescens
sun-requirements sun requirements Full sun to partial shade
height height 15-40’
hardiness-zones hardiness zones 5-9

American wisteria is a native, vigorous, high-climbing vine (though less aggressive than the invasive Chinese wisteria) with similar graceful blooms and foliage. Fragrant, pendulous purple blossoms and pinnate leaves intertwine on long, woody stems.

Blooms appear on new growth, and regular pruning is essential to maintain size and encourage flowering. Not pruning wisteria is a common mistake that quickly leads to overgrown vines. They’ll be full of leafy, vegetative growth but bloom less freely.

Pruning allows us to keep size in check and promote future flowering. Give wisteria a cut twice yearly, initially, a shape up around December, and a heavy cut early spring before new leaves emerge and again with a touch-up in mid to late summer. The blooming vines respond well to trimming in December when it’s easy to see the form of leafless branches. Pruning now directs energy into existing growth and makes way for new stems and bud development. 

Panicle Hydrangea

Tall Panicle hydrangeas feature a blend of white and pink petals, contrasting beautifully against a backdrop of lush green foliage.
Pyramidal white, lime, or rose clusters appear in summer through early fall.
common-name common name Panicle Hydrangea
botanical-name botanical name Hydrangea paniculata
sun-requirements sun requirements Full sun to partial shade
height height 8-25’
hardiness-zones hardiness zones 3-8

When it comes to cutting back hydrangeas in December, it helps to know what type you have. Those that bloom on old wood, like bigleaf (H. macrophylla), set their buds in late summer. Leave these until late winter or early spring for cutback. Removing stems now means taking off developing buds and a lack of future blooms.

Panicle (H. paniculata) and smooth hydrangeas (H. arborescens) bloom on new wood with more flexibility in their pruning. Panicle hydrangeas are cold hardy, adaptable, and the easiest to grow. Pyramidal white, lime, or rose clusters appear in summer through early fall, transitioning to pink by September and October. Prune them for shaping or size in winter. Begin by removing dead, crossing, and old canes to improve air circulation and stimulate new production.

In their lowest zones, it’s wise to wait until late season for heavy hydrangea pruning. Winter dieback is a natural occurrence for mature stems, depending on seasonal conditions. Pruning, followed by dieback, may result in shorter plants.

Pears

Shiny, teardrop-shaped fruits with a light green blush are nestled among thick, pointed green leaves.
Golden pears hang gracefully amidst oval, pointed leaves with a smooth texture.
common-name common name Pears
botanical-name botanical name Pyrus communis
sun-requirements sun requirements Full sun
height height 8-50’
hardiness-zones hardiness zones 4-8

As with apple trees, it’s best to prune pears during winter dormancy before new growth emerges. While fall pruning has the potential to promote ill-timed new growth (susceptible to frost damage and absorbing needed energy), winter cuts won’t regrow until temperatures warm and also heal more quickly. Choose a dry day to trim and make a clean cut above an outfacing bud.

Pears benefit from annual pruning to retain form and reduce pests and diseases. The goal is to thin the canopy for an open framework, improving air circulation and light exposure for fruiting. Well-spaced branching in a vase or an upright, rounded shape is ideal. They also make beautiful espaliers, and December is prime for training branches. Keep an eye out for fireblight, a common bacterial disease, and remove any blackened branches.

For Pyrus trees, pollination and fruit set improve by planting two or more varieties within 100 feet to attract bees and other insects. Some varieties are self-fruitful and yield a good crop on their own, but the more cultivars, the better in most cases.

Pears require a certain number of chill hours between 32 and 45°F (0-7°C) to set fruits. Chill time varies by species. Asian pears usually require less chill hours and are a good fit for warmer climates, while European varieties require more chill hours and grow well in cooler areas.

Abelia

Small, delicate flowers with white petals and a pinkish tint bloom amid shiny, dark green foliage, providing a soft contrast.
They offer a dense display of green and creamy white variegated leaves.
common-name common name Abelia
botanical-name botanical name Abelia x grandiflora
sun-requirements sun requirements Full sun to partial shade
height height 2-8’
hardiness-zones hardiness zones 6-9

Abelia is an evergreen shrub with glossy, pointed leaves and delicate blooms. From summer until frost, tubular pink or white flowers cluster on the tips of stems. Lightly fragrant and long-lasting, the blooms entice pollinators like hummingbirds and butterflies. 

Once abelia finishes flowering, it’s prime time for trimming. With their neat habits, the shrubs seldom need major cut back in December, but removing rogue stems and shaping is best before spring.

‘Rose Creek’ is a favorite cultivar with a low-growing, mounding habit and a profusion of light pink flowers. Leaves emerge with a pink blush and mature to dark green. The dwarf ‘Kaleidoscope’ brings color-shifting foliage from green and golden yellow in spring to red-orange in fall. “Miss Lemon’ has bright variegation in white and soft yellow.

Abelia is disease, pest, and deer-resistant. The durable woodies are heat, humidity, and drought tolerant.

Beautyberry

Healthy-looking pearl glam beautyberry bush appearing to have vivid green leaves and vibrant lilac berries under warm sunlight
It is beloved for the violet-magenta bunches of berries dotting the stems.
common-name common name Beautyberry
botanical-name botanical name Callicarpa americana
sun-requirements sun requirements Full sun to partial shade
height height 3-8’
hardiness-zones hardiness zones 6-10

American beautyberry is a flowering deciduous shrub native to southern North America. Outstanding for its violet-magenta bunches of berries dotting the stems, the fall fruits persist into winter. They brighten the cool season and provide forage for songbirds and small mammals.

Beautyberry are resilient shrubs. They may die back to the ground in the lowest growing zones but will rebound with warming temperatures. While they don’t require cutback, winter pruning contributes to a bushier, more compact habit. 

Cut Callicarpa as low as 12 inches tall to restore a dense form. Or, reduce branching by one-third for a lighter trim to manage size.

Grapevines

Small, rosy-red grapes with a smooth texture, clustered tightly on vines with broad, deep green leaves and slender stems.
Rich clusters of grapes cascade from twisting vines, complemented by broad leaves.
common-name common name Grapevines
botanical-name botanical name Vitis vinifera
sun-requirements sun requirements Full sun
height height 15-20’
hardiness-zones hardiness zones 6-10

Grapes are woody perennial vines with many uses, from providing shade over an arbor to enjoying in jams, juices, and, of course, wine. At harvest’s end in fall, attractive foliage mellows to gold and yellow and sometimes red and purple.

The vines prefer moderate climates with cool, wet winters and warm, arid summers. Many cultivars show cold hardiness and grow in northern climates, including some seedless types (which tend to be less hardy overall). Southern climates see the native muscadine, North America’s first cultivated grape.

The woody vines need a six-foot spacing on a support structure and ramble unless pruned for size. They benefit from winter pruning to promote vigor, manage size, and encourage heavy fruiting. In mild climates or grown under cover, cut back grapevines in December before the sap starts flowing. In cold climates, hold off until late winter—you have time before sugars rise in the stem.

Roses

red roses on a house wall
Elegant blooms in red unfurl their velvety petals against a deep green foliage.
common-name common name Roses
botanical-name botanical name Rosa spp.
sun-requirements sun requirements Full sun
height height 3-50’
hardiness-zones hardiness zones 5-11

Cutting back roses in December is selective and protects against winter damage. Save the bulk of rose pruning for late in the season and early spring. Light trimming now depends on the rose type and climate.

Prune out dead, damaged, and crossing branches to promote good airflow. Remove long, whippy stems from climbers and tall specimens to avoid wind damage. Shorten tall stems on top-heavy shrub roses to prevent toppling or rocking. Cut off weak or spindly shoots and any suckers.

After autumn’s heavy frost, in dormancy, shrub and landscape roses like Knockouts can be cut by one-third or down to about 30 inches tall. This reduction lowers the height to avoid catching the wind and removes thin stem ends susceptible to exposure.

Some gardeners in northern climates cut back their hybrid teas before winterizing. Knee-high, about 18 to 24 inches, preserves the core of the canes and crown. As with hybrid teas, gardeners in zones 4 and 5 may want to prune English roses to 18 to 24 inches after several nights with temperatures below 20°F (-7°C). Roses in zone 6 and lower benefit from extra winter protection.

Smoketree

A close-up of Cotinus coggygria 'Young Lady' with delicate light pink flowers in full bloom, adding a touch of elegance to the scene. The green foliage of the plants in the background complements the vibrant hues of the flowers, creating a harmonious and picturesque view in the garden setting.
Its delicate, hairy stems hold flower clusters that turn dusky pink and persist all summer in a hazy plume.
common-name common name Smoketree
botanical-name botanical name Cotinus coggygria
sun-requirements sun requirements Full sun
height height 10-15’
hardiness-zones hardiness zones 4-8

Smoketree is a loose, multi-stemmed shrub or small tree that makes an excellent focal point. Its delicate, hairy stems hold flower clusters that turn dusky pink and persist all summer in a hazy plume.

Dark plum and maroon foliage add to the appeal. Varieties like ‘Royal Purple’ are compact and retain the bold color throughout the growing season. Smoketree is drought-tolerant once established, making it a waterwise ornamental feature.

To rejuvenate size and shape, do a drastic prune in winter by cutting branches as low as six to eight inches above the soil level. Rejuvenation skips a year of blooms, though, as the shrubs bud on old wood. To prune lightly for form and density, remove the upper one-third of the stems. Buds that remain will produce the haze effect. Do your hard pruning in early spring when the tree is still dormant.

Lantana

This plant has dark green, rough-textured leaves and produces dense clusters of small, tubular flowers that transition in color from yellow to orange to pink.
Clusters of vibrant orange, yellow, and pink flowers pop against dark green, textured leaves with serrated edges.
common-name common name Lantana
botanical-name botanical name Lantana camara
sun-requirements sun requirements Full sun
height height 1-6’
hardiness-zones hardiness zones 7-11

Lantana has colorful, continual summer blooms and low-maintenance requirements. In mild climates and sheltered areas, the shrubby, sometimes mounding, tender perennial overwinters and reemerges in the warm season.

After a hard freeze, leaves will curl and dry. Cut back dry stems to one foot high, and mulch with bark chips or leaf litter to insulate roots.

Lantana is rugged and reliable in warm climates. It prefers soils with good drainage and regular water but withstands dry spells with a high heat tolerance. Careful cultivating this one in the south, as it is an invasive species.

Blackberries

A cluster of ripe and unripe blackberries on a green plant. The dark, juicy berries are surrounded by green leaves. Sunlight gently bathes the blackberries, casting a warm glow on their shiny, dark skins.
Plump, glossy blackberries gleam among thorny stems and dark green, jagged-edged leaves.
common-name common name Blackberries
botanical-name botanical name Rubus spp.
sun-requirements sun requirements Full sun
height height 2-20’ vines
hardiness-zones hardiness zones 3-9

Caneberries, like some blackberries and raspberries, benefit from pruning during dormancy to thin stems, reduce tangling, and improve airflow. Erect and semierect blackberries are the most cold hardy and do well with winter clean up.

Remove spent canes to create space for new growth. Caneberries have primocanes (first-year canes, green and pliable) and floricanes (second-year growth with flowers and fruits). While it sounds complex, visual cues help in cane removal. Old canes will be dry and brittle with peeling bark and brown interiors. Dormant, viable canes will be green and pithy.

For everbearing selections, keep a few of the viable canes (primocanes) intact for next season’s growth. Retaining two or three will yield two rounds of berries. To rejuvenate growth, reduce all canes to a few inches above soil level.

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