How to Overwinter Potted Banana Trees
Banana trees make striking potted plants, but they aren't cold-hardy. There are steps you can take to protect your lovely tropical fruit trees to keep them healthy for when spring rolls around. Florida gardener Melissa Strauss discusses how to treat your potted banana tree to take it through the frosty months.

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Out of all the fruit trees, I think bananas might be the prettiest. From your common Cavendish to the striking ‘Ensente,’ their large, soft leaves make them good for eating or using as ornamentals. Smaller varieties even make great potted plants; you can grow them indoors under the right conditions!
These tropical trees need large containers, at least 15 gallons or more. They prefer well-draining soil with high sand content and plenty of organic matter. They’re not the easiest to care for, but it’s more of a maintenance issue, as they need a significant amount of light and plenty of water. Turns out bananas are thirsty trees.
Dwarf varieties are best for keeping in containers. ‘Ice Cream’ is a wonderful cultivar for container growing. The small fruits are a lovely, soft blue shade, and the foliage is large for a smaller variety. Whichever type you choose, if you live north of Zone 9, you’ll have to keep it in a container. Let’s talk about how you can get it through the winter.
‘Ice Cream’ Banana Tree

- Creamy flavor for snacking
- Beautiful ornamental value
- Large, lush tropical leaves
- Container-friendly
- Hardy to zone 8
Stop Fertilizing

Banana trees typically like a lot of fertilizer. Fertilizing every six to eight weeks will keep your plant happy and productive. As with most plants, you should only fertilize while the plant is actively growing. As winter approaches, it’s important to stop.
The reason for this is the plant’s absorption ability. As your banana enters its dormant stage, not only will it not need fertilizer, it won’t use it. As a result, those extra nutrients will build up in the soil. This causes fertilizer burn. It can desiccate or break down the roots.
The ultimate result of fertilizer burn includes stunted growth and leaf development, as well as brown, dry tips on those pretty leaves. As fall draws to a close, ease off of your fertilizing schedule and give your plant the rest it needs.
Cut Back the Foliage

Don’t bring your plant in too soon. You want to expose it to some cool weather. This will signal it to enter dormancy, an energy-saving rest time. Leave it outdoors until just after the first light frost. This won’t harm the roots but will cause the foliage to begin dying back.
After the first frost, cut all the leaves off of the tree. Remove them all together, just above the top of the stem, below the lowest leaf. Make your cut at an angle to prevent water from pooling on the top and causing stem rot. Use a clean, sharp tool to make a clean cut.
If you’re wondering about the purpose of removing the foliage, it’s simple. Removing the leaves helps the plant to conserve energy while it is dormant. This also makes it much easier to store it indoors for the season. Banana trees can grow rather large.
Gradually Transition to a Cool, Bright Location

A gradual transition isn’t the most important factor, but it won’t hurt. It also gives you time to make sure you’re not bringing pests in to affect your houseplants. After that first frost, bring your banana into a cool but sheltered spot, like a garage or shed.
You don’t have to leave it here for long. A week will suffice. During this time, check in on it and look for signs of pests or diseases. I’ve made the mistake of transitioning outdoor plants to the indoors without this safeguard. It wasn’t pretty. I dealt with spider mites for the entire following year.
After this transition period, find a space for your plant that is cool and brightly lit. Don’t place it near a heating element, as this can cause it to come out of dormancy early. You want to keep it cool but give it light. This is a tropical plant, so it won’t go entirely dormant. It still needs light and water, although sparingly.
Optionally: Insulate the Pot

This applies to mild climate areas, so if you live north of Zone 8, you can skip it, as it won’t be necessary. If you bring your plant indoors, it will need no further insulation.
If, however, like me, you live in Zone 9 and intend to leave the potted tree outdoors for the winter, you’ll want to offer the roots some protection. There are different ways to do this, but it is easiest to wrap it with bubble wrap or a blanket.
Alternatively, you can dig a hole and set the pot down in the hole. Fill it up with mulch to lock in the heat, and toss some frost cloth over the top for good measure.
Monitor for Pests

Hopefully, any pest or disease issues will reveal themselves during your transitional period. However, it’s good to keep an eye on things in case something slipped through the cracks. If you do run into an issue, it’s important to isolate and treat it as soon as possible to protect any nearby plants.
Water Sparingly

Just as your tree will use fewer nutrients and need less light, it also needs less water while dormant. Overwatering during this time is a fast road to root rot.
In the same way that it won’t absorb as many nutrients, it won’t absorb a lot of water, so the water sits in the soil. Water also evaporates more slowly indoors and in the cooler weather.
Rather than sticking to a schedule, monitor your soil and let it tell you when to water. When the top two inches of soil are dry, give it a drink. This will depend on the temperature and humidity of your home, but it shouldn’t be more than once every two to three weeks.
Transition Back Gradually

Take your time about moving your tree back outdoors in the spring. Wait until a couple of weeks have passed after your last anticipated frost date. You can move it back to your transitional space or move it outdoors but undercover.
You can move it outside, into the shade for a few hours a day, gradually exposing it to more sun. If you want to begin doing this earlier in the year, you can, but make sure to bring it indoors at night. A late frost can cause damage.
Re-Pot if Necessary

It’s a good idea to re-pot your banana plant every two to three years. If it needs more space, you can size up the container or thin out any pups and give it fresh soil. The best time to re-pot is in the spring before new growth begins.
If you need to remove pups and the main plant doesn’t need more space, you can keep it in the same container. Loosen the soil and any circling roots from the inside of the pot. Use a clean, sharp tool to cut the offsets or pups away, and pot these in their own containers. Then, replace the parent plant in its container and fill it in with fresh soil.
If your plant has outgrown its present container, size up to a pot that is one size larger than the current one. Don’t go too large. They prefer to be slightly root-bound. Loosen the roots, transfer the plant to its new home, and fill in with fresh soil. Water well and allow the water to drain.
At this point, your banana tree is ready to move back outside. It should come out of dormancy as the weather warms. Keep an eye out for new leaves. As soon as it begins growing again, you can resume watering and fertilizing as usual!