How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Kalanchoe Beharensis

Kalanchoe beharensis is an evergreen shrub that is commonly known by the names velvet leaf plant, elephant’s ears kalanchoe, teddy bear, and Napoleon’s hat. These names all stem from the texture and general shape of the leaves.

It is a succulent perennial that is hardy in zones 10-12 and is elsewhere kept predominantly as a houseplant.

If you’ve decided that you’d like to add a low-maintenance succulent to your indoor or outdoor garden, the velvet leaf plant is a fine selection.

Let’s look at everything you need to know about this spectacular succulent, including it’s maintenance and care needs.

What about Kalanchoe Beharensis?

Kalanchoe beharensis is one of the largest species of kalanchoe, growing as tall as 5-20′ tall in the wild. Where most kalanchoe are small flowering succulents, it is considered a small tree, as it can grow quite large and has a woody trunk. It has a shrub-like shape, with a native spread of up to 12′.

Native Area

Kalanchoe beharensis is a texturally interesting species of kalanchoe. It gets its name from its native region of Behara, located on the southern end of the island of Madagascar, where many species of kalanchoe are native and endemic.

Characteristics

These succulents grow quite a considerable amount larger than most of the kalanchoe species. They are slow growers, however, and outside of their native zones, they will be a considerably smaller, and more manageable. Keeping Kalanchoe beharensis in a container will help to inhibit its growth, making it more suitable as a houseplant.

Classification

Kalanchoe beharensis is classified as part of the genus kalanchoe in the Crassulaceae family, which is commonly known as the stonecrop family. Some of the more floriferous varieties are very popular for their long-lasting, brightly colored clusters of flowers.

The most popular species, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana can be found readily in nurseries and even in grocery stores, particularly in the winter during its blooming season. Kalanchoes are very tolerant of heat and sun and can flower for a long period of time. 

Flowers

Nearly all species of kalanchoe are flowering. Although they are not all known for this characteristic, many of them will not bloom if kept as houseplants. This is a result of lighting conditions and temperature shifts, which cause it to initiate the process of setting buds. However, there are generally ways to induce the process if you are able to keep the succulent outdoors for a significant portion of the year.

These are sun and heat lovers and can tolerate quite a bit of neglect. Like most succulents, a fair amount of neglect is actually necessary to keep them healthy. When grown outdoors in zones 11-12, it will produce flowers that are attractive to pollinators as well as nectar-loving birds.

The blooming season for these succulents in spring and summer, when they will send up large, branching inflorescences. These branches hold many small urn-shaped blooms that are typically an orange color and occasionally have a greenish tint.

Leaf Formation

Kalanchoe beharensis is best known for its leaves, as the nickname velvet leaf plant indicates. The leaves are typically olive green and blush with a faint reddish-brown color when happily stressed by lots of sunlight. They are triangular and grow in pairs at right angles to one another.

The distinguishing characteristic of these leaves is their texture. On top and bottom, fine, pale velvet coats the lanceolate leaves. This coating is a sun protectant, making Kalanchoe beharensis exceptionally tolerant of full sun exposure, although it can be perfectly happy in partial shade or bright, indirect sunlight.

The margins of the velvety leaves are ruffled, adding a delicacy to their appearance. They grow on tall, slender, knotted stems, up to five feet tall in captivity. Some varieties and hybrid varieties will have variegated leaves, and some have darker margins. These pretty succulents offer lots of possibilities.

Varieties

There are several popular varieties of Kalanchoe beharensis, and all are adaptable to a wide range of living conditions. Let’s look at some of the most popular options you’ll come across.

Kalanchoe beharensis ‘Fang’

‘Fang’ is one of the most popular varieties of this species. It has won the Royal Horticultural Society Award of Garden Merit. It has large four-inch leaves that are bronze on top and silvery green underneath. The underside also features many small fang-like protuberances, which is where it gets its name.

This makes a lovely container specimen and as a lot of textural interest with its fangs, coloration, and velvety covering. It mixes well with other varieties of succulents and adds a fun element to a rock garden. Outdoors in zones 10-12 they bloom from spring to summer.

Kalanchoe beharensis ‘Oak Leaf’

‘Oak Leaf’ is a dwarf version of Kalanchoe beharensis, which makes it great as an houseplant because it will not outgrow its space as quickly as a full-sized variety. This variety grows to about two to three inches tall at the most. It’s pale green color fades to a grayish silver-tone with bright sun exposure and deepens with more shade.

If you can encourage this variety to bloom, it’s quite attractive. It produces coral-colored flowers that beautifully complement its pale green leaves. It grows well outdoors in zones 9-12.

Kalanchoe beharensis ‘Brown Dwarf’

This is another dwarf variety that is perfect for container gardening. Called ‘Brown Dwarf’, this variety has soft brown velvet as opposed to the typical silver velvet of most varieties. Also known as ‘Nana’, ‘Brown Dwarf’ has very interesting leaves, they are deeply bisected with contorted margins.

The rosettes are small on this variety, at six inches or smaller, which is much smaller than the full-sized tree. In full sun or partial shade they grow well outdoors in zones 9-12.

Planting

Kalanchoes are succulents, and as such, they do best in succulent/cactus potting mediums. These potting soils will typically have coarser particles, which allow for maximum drainage.

Drainage is very important when potting a succulent, as the roots rot quickly if they sit in soggy soil. Succulent potting mixes are commercially available, but you can make your own by adding sand, perlite, or other larger particles that help with proper drainage.

Kalanchoe beharensis does not need to be planted deeply. It will do well if planted just below the surface of the surrounding soil. Dig a hole that is as deep as the root ball and just wide enough to situate it in the container. Then, fill in around with potting medium and water deeply.

If you are potting cuttings, make a small hole in the potting mix with your finger and set the leaf cutting stem side down in the hole. Press the potting mixture around the cutting to secure it in place.

How to Grow

Kalanchoe are wonderfully easy and low-maintenance types to grow. Providing them with the right environment will ensure the health and attractiveness.

Light

Kalanchoe like a bright light in general, but not all species appreciate full direct sunlight. Kalanchoe beharensis likes all the light. The velvety hairs that cover the leaves of this plant act as a type of sunscreen.

They help to filter the light and prevent the leaves from burning, so you can give it plenty of sun, and it will be quite content.

While they like and can tolerate full sun, they are also surprisingly adaptable to lower light conditions. Bright, indirect light is perfectly fine for most kalanchoe species, and Kalanchoe beharensis is no exception. If you want to spice up the colors a bit, try more sun, if you prefer to bring out the cool tones, give it more shade.

Water

Kalanchoes are succulents and should be watered that way. Traditionally, that means that they like a good drenching, with enough time for their roots to absorb lots of water. After which, they like to drain completely and dry out before the next watering.

If watered too frequently, kalanchoe runs the risk of rotting roots. Their roots are made to absorb water when it is available. If there is too much water, the roots will saturate and begin to break down and deteriorate from being waterlogged. This makes them more vulnerable to bacteria and fungi.

The container and location will dictate how often to water. In a pot with excellent drainage and lots of light, you may water once weekly.

If the container holds more moisture or isn’t getting as much sunlight, limit watering to only when the soil is dry for the top two inches. Outdoors kalanchoe can be watered every three to four days as long as the container drains completely between waterings.

Soil

Kalanchoe beharensis grows well in well-draining, sandy, or loamy soil that mimics its natural arid environment. The soil should have excellent drainage to prevent root rot, as this succulent is sensitive to waterlogged conditions. A mix of cactus soil or sandy potting soil with added perlite or coarse sand works well.

Ideally, the soil pH should be neutral to slightly acidic, ranging from 6.0 to 7.0. Enriching the soil with a small amount of organic matter, such as compost, can improve nutrient availability without compromising drainage.

Temperature

Kalanchoe beharensis is native to the island of Madagascar. While the climate varies on the island in terms of elevation and rainfall, the temperatures are relatively consistent and range between 73-90°F (23-32°C). Generally, room temperature is fine for kalanchoes as long as they get adequate light and airflow.

If Kalanchoe beharensis doesn’t get adequate light, there is little to no chance of it blooming. Moving them outdoors during the warmer months will make them happy. I live in a humid part of zone 8, and I leave most of my kalanchoes outside, under cover, unless the temperature is going to drop below 30°F (-1°C), and I have yet to kill one entirely.

Even the kalanchoe I’ve forgotten and allowed to freeze simply lose their leaves, and by the next summer, they grow right back. This is great for potted kalanchoe; however, they don’t create many as offsets this way, and I don’t see many flowers either.

Fertilizing

During fall and winter, Kalanchoe beharensis, and all kalanchoe, for that matter, have no need for fertilizer. They absorb very little water during this time, so fertilizer would be wasted on them. During the growing season, you can fertilize every few months. two to three times per year should be plenty.

A balanced, all-purpose fertilizer or a fertilizer made for cacti and succulents are both good options. If using an all-purpose fertilizer, dilute by half. Kalanchoe are good at utilizing nutrients, so if you forget to fertilize, don’t worry too much.

Maintenance

Kalanchoe, in general, and Kalanchoe beharensis, in particular, need very little pruning and are very low maintenance. Aside from pruning to maintain a preferred shape and size, it’s really not necessary to prune.

Removing dead or unhealthy-looking foliage is helpful in general. This helps to redirect energy and nutrients into new growth.

If your succulent looks spindly, you can trim it down to one of the large leaves in the spring. This will encourage it to thicken up and fill in a bit. Leaves that need to come off because they are dead or unhealthy can simply be pinched off.

Propagation

Kalanchoes are typically an easy group of plants to propagate. In fact, most of them do it themselves on a regular basis. There are three simple ways to propagate.

The difference between them is how long it takes to get a resulting mature succulent. One method ensures that produces new leaves almost immediately. Other methods require some patience.

Offsets

Kalanchoe Beharensis regularly sends out offsets, or babies, from the base of the parent. These offsets can be left intact, which will result in a clustering effect, with many growing together in a clump. They can also be removed and planted in their own space or container if you would like to use these to propagate and produce more.

This is the easiest method of propagating. The offset is already technically its own separate unit and will grow its own root system quite quickly once removed from the parent.

Removing offsets should be done in spring and not while it is in bloom. Cut the offset away from the parent at the root level, allow the end to cure for a day or two, and then pot in moist potting soil.

Cuttings

Although it will take a bit longer to get a mature succulent, it is perfectly possible to propagate by leaf cuttings. The process is very similar to that of propagating by offset. It just takes a little longer for the cutting to root and then produce additional leaves.

Take your cuttings in spring when it is actively growing but not in bloom. Let the cut leaves cure for a day or two, and then pot them, cut side down in moist potting soil. Rooting hormone can help to kickstart growth. Try to cut the leaf as close to the central stem as possible for the best result.

Seed

Kalanchoe grows quite well from seed as well. While this also will take some time before you have a mature succulent, this is the best way to produce a larger number of them. 

Kalanchoe seeds germinate quickly, which has some bearing on the container used. If you don’t want the hassle of repotting before your kalanchoe are ready to go in the ground or their final container, seed trays can be a bit inhibiting. Sowing seeds directly into a small pot will result in the least amount of work.

Kalanchoe likes a porous potting mix, so combining 25% potting mix with 75% of another mineral, perlite, vermiculite, or sand all work well. Water the potting medium and allow it to drain, then place seeds on top of the soil. Very gently press the seeds into the soil, only slightly. They do not need to be buried deeply.

Covering the pot with plastic wrap is helpful for maintaining moisture and humidity. Keep the pot in partial to full shade until the seeds germinate, and then gradually introduce it to a sunnier spot. Once your seedlings are used to getting at least part sun, transplant them and treat them as any succulent.

Common Problems

There are a handful of things to watch out for in terms of maintaining the health of your Kalanchoe Beharensis and defending against pests and diseases. Kalanchoe have juicy leaves that sap-sucking insects find particularly appealing.

Growing Problems

As with most succulent plants, kalanchoe are particularly susceptible to root rot. This is typically the result of overwatering or poor drainage, and it can be deadly. When succulents can’t absorb the water around their roots, their roots start to soften and deteriorate.

When the roots begin to break down, they become more susceptible to fungus and bacteria. If this happens, you may notice the stem or lower leaves turning black. If your kalanchoe is experiencing root rot, the best solution is to repot.

Remove from its damp soil and give it a few days to dry out in the shade so that the roots don’t get burned by the sun. Once the roots have had some time to dry out, replant the kalanchoe in a new, well-draining pot, and adjust your watering habits.

Pests

Sucking insects can case serious damage to succulents and they should be dealt with as soon as they are observed, not only for the sakes of the kalanchoe but for neighboring houseplants as well. Let’s take a look at some of the culprits.

Aphids

Aphids are a common type of insect that are found in most gardens. Outdoors, they are usually controlled by predatory insects like ladybugs and wasps, but indoors they can make a real mess out of a juicy succulent. Aphids eat the sap and leave behind a sticky excrement called honeydew, both of which can be factors in the destruction of a kalanchoe.

They can have wings or be wingless, and they can typically be taken care of without harsh insecticides. Neem oil works well, or simply setting your plant outside for a few days and allowing nature’s pest control agents to come in and have a snack.

If you notice curling and yellowing of leaves, check under the leaves for these little guys. Another sign of aphids is mold which grows as a result of their excrement. This can be wiped off with a soft, damp cloth.

Mealybugs

These little pests can do a considerable amount of damage to a kalanchoe. They are also sap feeders, and they reproduce quickly. They drain the succulent of nutrients, shriveling leaves and stunting the growth of their host.

Mealybugs look like little white, fuzzy spots and are usually found in clusters under leaves. They also leave behind honeydew, which causes black sooty mold, and that is not great for your succulent either.

70% isopropyl alcohol is the most effective treatment for mealybugs. There are two ways to do this. One is to soak a cotton swab and wipe them off with it. For a minor infestation, this is a good path as it causes minimal damage. For a severe infestation, it may be more effective to mist them with alcohol in a spray bottle.

Make sure to remove the excess alcohol if misting, as this can damage by drying out the already damaged tissues.

Spider Mites

These sap suckers are more closely related to spiders than insects. They pierce the skin of the plant and drain the nutrients, leaving the plant looking dull and listless. They can cover a kalanchoe with their fine webs, where they lay and protect their eggs, which will hatch and further damage the host.

You might notice pale or yellow spots on leaves or see the webbing itself. These are indicators of spider mites. Neem oil and insecticidal soaps are very effective in getting rid of spider mites and keeping them away. Neem oil is safe for humans and animals and gentle, so this is the most popular solution to many plant-destroying pests.

Diseases

As discussed early, the most problematic disease is root rot.

Frequently Asked Questions