How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Honeydew Melons
When hot summer days arrive, biting into a homegrown melon is one of the best treats. Join farmer Briana Yablonski to learn how to grow honeydews from seed to harvest.
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When it comes to melons, honeydew might not be at the top of everyone’s list. However, don’t count these green melons out if you’ve only eaten them as part of a store-bought fruit salad. Homegrown honeydew has a refreshing juiciness and subtle floral flavor that makes it compete with beloved favorites like watermelon and cantaloupe.
Honeydew melons grow best in warm climates with plenty of sun and space to spread. But with a little planning and care, even gardeners in cooler regions can enjoy these sweet fruits. In this guide, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know to grow honeydews at home—from seed starting to harvest.
Honeydew Melon ‘Cucumis melo’ Overview
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Plant Type
Annual
Family
Cucurbitaceae
Genus
Cucumis
Species
melo
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Native Area
Africa and Asia
Exposure
Full sun
Height
1 foot, up to 8 feet if trellised
Watering Requirements
Moderate
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Pests & Diseases
Cucumber beetle, aphids, powdery mildew, downy mildew, bacterial wilt
Maintenance
Low to moderate
Soil Type
Rich and well-draining
Hardiness Zone
2-11
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What Are Honeydew Melons?
Honeydew melons are a type of muskmelon known for their smooth, pale rinds and slightly sweet, light green flesh. They lack the musky fragrance found in cantaloupes and other types, but produce similar trailing vines.
While you may be most familiar with the standard honeydew, there are dozens of cultivars with varying skin colors and flavors. All are members of the Cucumis melo species, which also includes cantaloupe and crenshaw types.
Unlike their cantaloupe cousins, honeydews don’t emit a strong aroma when ripe, which is how they earned the name “inodorus,” meaning “without scent.” Because they don’t continue to ripen after harvest, proper timing is key if you want to enjoy the melons at the peak of flavor.
Characteristics
Honeydew melons typically have smooth, slightly waxy skin that ranges from pale green to golden yellow when ripe. The flesh is usually light green, but you’ll also find orange and white-fleshed varieties. The fruit size varies by cultivar, but most of them are between five and ten pounds when mature.
Each plant produces long, trailing vines that sprawl multiple feet in every direction. The vines bear yellow flowers, which turn into melons after they’re properly pollinated.
Native Area
Most historians believe that melons originated in Africa and southwest Asia, with honeydews developing through centuries of cultivation. They made their way to Europe and the Americas through trade and exploration, and became popular in the United States by the early 1900s.
Planting
Most honeydews take around three months to mature, so it’s important to get them in the ground early enough to ensure they can ripen before cool fall days arrive. However, since these heat-loving plants don’t tolerate cold, wait until after the last spring frost to plant.
Honeydews can grow well when directly sown in the garden or transplanted. The best growing method depends on your climate and preferences.
Starting Seeds Indoors
If you live in an area with a short growing season, starting your seeds indoors increases the odds that the plants will mature before the first fall frost arrives. You can also start seeds indoors in warmer climates, although it’s unnecessary.
Plan to sow seeds indoors in cell trays or soil blocks one to three weeks before your last spring frost. Since these crops grow quickly, skip small cells and soil blocks. Instead, choose larger cell trays or soil blocks, or small pots. Plant one to two seeds per cell, about half an inch deep.
Keep the soil between 70-85°F (21-29°C) for quick germination—using a heat mat can help speed things up. Once seedlings emerge, you can remove them from the heat mat. Move them to a location that receives 12–14 hours of light per day; you can use a grow light if you don’t have a sunny windowsill.
If you planted more than one seed per cell, thin to one seedling when the plants have their first set of true leaves. Continue to keep the soil moist and wait until the plants have a few sets of true leaves before you plant them outdoors. Make sure to harden off your seedlings before transplanting them into the garden.
Direct Sowing
If you live in a warmer climate with a long growing season, you can get away with directly sowing honeydew melon seeds. Wait until the nights remain in the 50s (~10°C) and the soil has warmed to at least 65°F (18°C). In many cases, planting two to three weeks after your last spring frost is ideal. You can wait longer if you live in zones seven and above.
Plant two to three seeds per hole and allow for two feet between each group of seeds and five to six feet between other rows of crops. Remember, the melon vines will spread! Once the seeds emerge, thin to one plant per cluster.
How to Grow
Honeydew melons thrive in full sun, warm temperatures, and fertile soil. Here’s how to keep them happy from seedling to harvest.
Light
Melons love heat and sun, and honeydews are no exception. Plant them in a location that receives at least eight to ten hours of direct sunlight each day. A lack of light can lead to poor flowering, wet leaves, and an increase in diseases.
Water
Since honeydew plants produce large vines and water-rich melons, they require lots of water. While the plants are young, keep the soil evenly moist to encourage strong root growth. As they mature, water deeply but less frequently—providing one inch two times per week is often a good place to start. Reduce watering once the fruits are mature and start to ripen to improve sweetness and avoid splitting.
Wet leaves are more prone to disease, so aim to keep them dry. Drip irrigation is ideal, but you can also water the base of the plant with a hose or watering can.
Soil
These vines prefer rich, well-draining soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Avoid compacted soil and loosen any dense areas before planting. Adding compost or at planting time will improve soil fertility and water retention.
Temperature and Humidity
These heat-loving plants thrive in daytime temperatures of 75°F to 90°F (24 °C to 32°C). Growth slows below 60°F (16°C), and cold snaps can kill young seedlings. Humidity can increase the risk of fungal diseases, so space plants well to ensure good airflow.
Fertilizing
Honeydew is a moderate to heavy feeder. Conducting a soil test before planting is the best way to determine which nutrients to apply. However, if you want to skip this step, apply a balanced organic fertilizer or compost at the time of planting. Avoid applying too much nitrogen after the plants are established, as this can lead to lots of foliage but few flowers and fruits.
Maintenance
Honeydew rarely requires much maintenance beyond the normal watering and weeding. You can trellis these vining plants, but it isn’t necessary.
If you decide to trellis, choose a strong support that can handle the robust vines and heavy melons. Wooden arbors and metal fences are a few options that can work well. Since these crops have tendrils, the plants can attach themselves to the support. However, they may need some help to find the support.
As the fruits grow, you may need to help support them on the trellis. Attaching a net or piece of pantyhose under the melons is one easy way to ensure the melons don’t break from the plants as they become heavier.
Harvesting and Storage
Honeydews are some of the toughest melons to harvest. They don’t emit a fragrance when ripe or slip from the vine like cantaloupes. Since you can’t use smell or slip as a sign that it’s time to harvest, look for a color change on the rind.
Most honeydew melons have a light green skin when they’re unripe. As the fruits ripen, the skin will change to creamy white, then yellow. When you spot a yellow skin, check for a soft blossom end that confirms it’s time to pick your melon.
You can gently tug the honeydew from the vine or cut it with pruners. A ripe melon should feel heavy for its size and smell slightly sweet. Unlike other melons, honeydews don’t improve after picking, so aim to harvest when fully ripe.
Store melons in the fridge for up to two weeks. Once cut, seal and refrigerate leftovers for two to three days.
Common Problems
Honeydew melons face many of the same pests and diseases as cucumbers, squash, and other types of melons. Keeping vines healthy and monitoring regularly helps you stay ahead of problems. That said, keep an eye out for the following problems.
Aphids
These tiny sap-sucking insects often cluster on young leaves and stems. Look for tiny pear-shaped insects in shades of green, yellow, red, and other colors.
Although a few aphids aren’t a problem, they can quickly multiply and form huge populations. When hundreds of these insects suck plant sap, plants become weakened.
Natural predators like ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps can help keep aphid populations under control. Planting a diverse array of flowering plants and avoiding broad-spectrum insecticides can help keep these good bugs around.
If you notice aphids have become a problem, you can spray them with insecticidal soap or neem oil.
Cucumber Beetles
These yellow beetles have black stripes or spots. They love to chew on honey leaves, leading to small holes. However, the real damage occurs when the pests spread bacterial wilt between plants.
Covering young plants with row covers can protect the seedlings from these pests. However, you’ll need to remove the covers when the plants begin to flower. At this point, encourage natural predators and spray the beetles with neem oil if necessary.
Powdery Mildew
If it looks like your melon’s leaves are covered with flour, they’re probably infected with powdery mildew. This coating limits photosynthesis and can eventually lead to misshapen buds and brown leaves.
Powdery mildew is most common in warm and humid weather, so it often occurs in summer melons. Although you can’t change the temperature and humidity, you can encourage good airflow by spacing plants appropriately. This will limit the chances of disease.
Downy Mildew
Downy mildew is a fungal disease that thrives in wet conditions. The disease first appears as light green or yellow patches on leaves. Over time, these patches turn brown, and entire leaves may die.
Keeping leaves dry is a key part of preventing this disease. Aim to water the base of the plant and plant in an area with morning light to dry dew that has collected on the leaves.
Bacterial Wilt
If your entire honeydew plant seemed to collapse overnight, a lack of water probably isn’t the cause. Instead, bacterial wilt is likely to blame. This disease quickly progresses throughout the plant and essentially clogs the vessels that move water throughout the plant. There is no cure once plants are infected.
This disease is spread by cucumber beetles, so controlling the insects is the best way to keep your plants healthy. Keep young plants protected with row cover and encourage natural predators that feed on cucumber beetles.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are honey melons and honeydew the same thing?
Yes. Honeydew is the most common name for honey melons in the United States, but they both refer to smooth-skinned melons with sweet green flesh.
Can I grow honeydew melons in containers?
Absolutely. Choose a container that’s at least 10 gallons, use well-draining and nutrient-rich soil mix, and water frequently.
How long does it take to grow honeydew melons?
Honey melons typically mature 75–100 days after planting, depending on the variety and growing conditions.
