How to Plant, Grow, and Care for ‘Florida Sweetheart’ Caladium
'Florida Sweetheart' is a compact, shade-loving caladium with vivid pink foliage that brightens gardens and containers from spring through fall. Gardening expert Madison Moulton covers everything you need to know to plant, grow, and care for this tropical standout.
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Caladiums are one of the best options for adding bold color to shady spots where flowering plants tend to struggle. And ‘Florida Sweetheart’ caladium is one of the most striking varieties in the group.
Its bright pink, heart-shaped leaves with dark pink veins and green edges look almost translucent in the right light. They have a glow that is welcomed in foliage gardens where the dominant color is usually (and understandably) green.
It produces a dense mound of foliage close to the ground rather than the tall, arching leaves you see in other types. That compact habit makes it well-suited to borders, containers, hanging baskets, and mass plantings where you want color without height.
Like all caladiums, it grows from a tuber, goes dormant in winter, and needs warmth and moisture to perform well. Here is how to keep yours happy.
What Is ‘Florida Sweetheart’ Caladium?
‘Florida Sweetheart’ is a cultivar of Caladium bicolor, a tropical perennial in the Araceae family, native to South America. It was developed through the University of Florida’s caladium breeding program, which is responsible for many of the most popular varieties on the market. The name reflects both its origin and its vivid pink coloring.
Characteristics

The leaves are heart-shaped with a slightly wavy or ruffled edge, reaching about six to eight inches in length. The base color is bright rose-pink, with darker pink veins and a narrow green border.
The foliage has a semi-transparent, parchment-like texture that catches light, especially in dappled shade. The plant grows about 12 inches tall with a similar spread, making it more compact than most caladiums.
‘Florida Sweetheart’ caladium is grown purely for its foliage. It occasionally produces small, inconspicuous flowers (a typical aroid spathe), but these should be removed to keep the plant’s energy directed toward leaf production. All parts of the plant are toxic to pets and people if ingested.
Planting

Plant ‘Florida Sweetheart’ caladium tubers in spring. Set tubers about two inches deep with the knobby, bumpy side facing up (that’s where the growing points, or eyes, are). Space them about 12 inches apart for in-ground planting or one tuber per six-inch pot for containers.
Water well after planting and keep the soil consistently moist as you wait for growth to emerge, which usually takes two to four weeks.
In cooler climates (zones 8 and below), you can start tubers indoors four to six weeks before your last frost to get a head start. Plant them in pots in a warm room (above 70°F) and move them outdoors once nighttime temperatures are reliably above 60°F (16°C).
How to Grow
Like most caladiums, these foliage plants are not difficult to grow. As long as you plant in the right environment, they aren’t particularly demanding.
Light

Most caladiums do best in partial shade to full shade, and ‘Florida Sweetheart’ is no exception. A spot with morning sun and afternoon shade, or dappled light beneath a tree canopy, produces the most vibrant leaf color. Too much direct sun (especially intense afternoon sun) tends to scorch the thin, delicate leaves, causing brown, papery patches that don’t recover.
Some newer caladium cultivars are marketed as sun-tolerant, but ‘Florida Sweetheart’ caladium performs best with protection from prolonged direct exposure. If you’re growing it in a container, placing it on a covered porch or beneath a shade structure works well.
Water

Consistent moisture is the single most important factor in growing caladiums well. The soil should stay evenly moist throughout the growing season. Letting it dry out causes leaves to yellow, wilt, and drop prematurely. Waterlogged soil, on the other hand, encourages tuber rot, especially in heavy or poorly drained ground.
Water regularly, especially during hot weather, and apply a layer of mulch around the plants once the leaves have emerged to help retain moisture. In containers, you may need to water daily during the warmest months.
Soil

Caladiums need light, well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Heavy clay compacts around the tubers and holds too much water, which leads to rot. If your garden soil is heavy, amend it generously with compost before planting, or grow in containers where you can control the mix.
A standard all-purpose potting mix works well for containers. Adding a handful of perlite improves drainage if the mix tends to stay too wet. The ideal pH is slightly acidic to neutral, but caladiums aren’t particularly fussy about pH as long as drainage is good.
Temperature and Humidity

This is a tropical plant that needs warmth. Daytime temperatures between 70°F and 85°F (21°C and 29°C) are ideal, with nighttime temperatures above 60°F (16°C). Growth slows significantly below 65°F, and the tubers can be damaged by temperatures below 55°F (13°C). In most of the country, this limits the outdoor growing season to late spring through early fall.
Humidity is equally important. Caladiums thrive in humid conditions and tend to look their best in regions where summer humidity is naturally high. In drier climates or indoors, grouping plants together or using a humidity tray helps keep the leaves from developing crispy edges.
Fertilizer

Caladiums are moderate feeders, but they respond well to regular fertilizing during the growing season. A balanced, slow-release fertilizer applied at planting time provides a steady foundation.
For container-grown plants, supplement with a diluted liquid fertilizer every two to four weeks. Too much fertilizer can burn the foliage and dull the leaf color.
Maintenance

Remove any yellow or damaged leaves as they appear. This keeps the plant looking tidy and prevents dead foliage from harboring pests or diseases. If the plant produces a flower stalk, cut it off at the base. Blooming redirects energy away from foliage production.
As temperatures cool in fall, the leaves will begin to yellow and die back. This is normal dormancy, and not a problem to worry about. Just gradually reduce watering as the foliage declines.
In zones 9 through 11, the tubers can stay in the ground year-round with a layer of mulch for insulation. In colder zones, dig up the tubers after the foliage has died back but before the first frost. Brush off the soil, let them dry for about a week in a warm, well-ventilated spot, and store them until spring.
Propagation

The easiest way to propagate caladiums is by dividing the tubers. Do this in spring before planting, when you can see the growing points clearly.
Use a clean, sharp knife to cut the tuber into sections, making sure each piece has at least one eye (growing point). Let the cut pieces dry for a few days in a warm spot so the wound seals, which helps prevent rot when they’re planted. Then plant each section as you would a whole tuber.
Larger tuber sections tend to establish faster and produce more foliage in the first season. Smaller pieces will grow, but may take a full season to fill out.
Common Problems

Most caladium problems come back to water. Yellowing leaves usually mean the soil has been too dry or too wet. If the foliage is drooping, check the soil moisture before doing anything else. Dry soil needs water. Soggy soil needs better drainage or less frequent watering.
Brown, papery patches on the leaves are typically sunburn. Move the plant to a shadier spot or provide afternoon protection. Once a leaf is scorched, it won’t recover, but new growth should come in undamaged if the light is corrected.
Tuber rot is the most serious issue and usually results from planting in cold or waterlogged soil. Prevention is the best approach: wait until the soil is warm, use well-draining soil, and avoid overwatering. If you notice soft, mushy growth at the base of the plant, the tuber may be rotting. Dig it up, cut away any rotten sections, let the healthy tissue callus, and replant in fresh soil.
Pest problems are uncommon, especially outdoors. Aphids and spider mites occasionally appear on indoor plants. Inspect the undersides of the leaves regularly and treat with insecticidal soap if you spot them early.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is ‘Florida Sweetheart’ a sun or shade caladium?
It performs best in partial shade to full shade. It can handle some morning sun, but prolonged direct sunlight (especially afternoon sun) tends to scorch the leaves.
Can I grow ‘Florida Sweetheart’ indoors?
Yes, as long as you can provide bright indirect light, consistent moisture, and warm, humid conditions. A bathroom or kitchen with good natural light is often ideal. Expect the plant to go dormant after a few months, even indoors.
Will the tubers come back every year?
In zones 9 through 11, they can stay in the ground and return each spring. In colder climates, you’ll need to dig up and store the tubers over winter. With proper storage, they can be replanted year after year.