How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Echeveria Lola

Beauty takes on new meaning when it comes to Echeveria ‘Lola’. This ornate succulent shyly takes the center stage of showy plants.

Its gray-blue leaves glow with the faintest hint of pink, or take on a greenish hue. The edge of each leaf has an intricate design resembling a curly bracket. Lola is a common household succulent, and it’s easy to see why.

Lola is a hardy plant that grows well in containers and landscapes. The farina (epicuticular wax) on its leaves provides a marbled texture, adding interest to any garden. Not only is this plant alluring and tough, but it’s also low-maintenance. What else could you ask for in a plant?

What is Echeveria ‘Lola’?

Lola is usually considered a cross between Echeveria lilacina and Echeveria derenbergii. However, there is debate over whether Echeveria deresina or Echeveria ‘Tippy’ is a parent instead of E. derenbergii. The credit for this lovely hybrid goes to Dick Wright, who created it in 1980.

This succulent is tough but still vulnerable to frost. Zones 10-11 are perfect for outdoor growing and xeriscaping. For northerners, Lola makes a fantastic houseplant. Of course, there’s always the option of planting your succulent in a container and moving it in and out according to the weather.

Peach-colored, bell-shaped flowers bloom in the spring and summer. They sit atop tall, spindly stems and attract pollinators. Lola also grows offsets, which are lovingly referred to as pups. The most growth occurs in the summer, though at a moderate rate.

Planting

Echeveria ‘Lola’ is typically planted in containers. While they can grow directly in the ground in warmer zones, their interesting shape and compact growth make them great options for container displays in any climate.

Begin by selecting a well-draining succulent soil mix, essential for quick drainage and preventing root rot. Also use a pot with drainage holes to prevent water from accumulating at the root level, which could be harmful.

When potting, gently remove the plant from its previous container. Check the roots for signs of damage or rot before replanting. Position the plant in the new pot, filling around it with more soil mix and ensuring that the soil level does not cover the leaves.

Wait a couple of days for the plant to settle in the pot before watering.

How to Grow

The care instructions for Lola are similar to the care for most succulents. Because this plant is resilient, it’s the perfect plant for gardeners who want to start growing succulents.

Light

The general light recommendation for Echeveria ‘Lola’ is full sun to partial shade. However, you must keep yours out of direct sun in the harsh summer afternoon, as the leaves can burn. The best outdoor location is one with bright light in the morning and partial shade in the afternoon.

Indoors, place your plant in a south-facing window, which will have the most sun. Lola also thrives under grow lights.

Just like the pupils of your eyes have to adjust to light exposure, succulents need to acclimate to the sun. Move your plant into its new location gradually, giving it plenty of time to adapt. This is especially important for young plants, which are more vulnerable.

Water

To water, drench the soil until it runs out of the drainage holes. Then, let it dry out completely before watering again. This watering technique mimics the desert habitat Lola is used to.

Keep the rosette dry while watering to avoid moisture-related problems. The best container for any succulent is a terra cotta pot (without glaze). The surface of these pots allows water to evaporate through it, minimizing the risk of overwatering.

Watch your succulent for signs that the watering is off. If the leaves are yellow and mushy or fall off easily, the plant is being overwatered. Conversely, underwatering will make the leaves shrivel up, wilt, and turn brown.

Soil

Well-draining soil is absolutely essential for all succulents, especially Echeveria ‘Lola’. Choose one that drains quickly so your plant is never left sitting in water.

Pre-made succulent soils are available in practically every garden store. You can also mix your own with one part potting soil and one part perlite or sand.

While designed to be well-draining, succulent soils may still retain too much water for the location your plant is in (particularly indoors). If this is the case, repot and add some extra draining materials to the mix.

Temperature & Humidity

Cooler temperatures may exaggerate the rosy coloring. However, your succulent won’t survive in temperatures below 20°F (-7°C). Keep the plant warm and protected throughout the year to avoid permanent damage.

You should also avoid placing your plant in humid locations, like a closed terrarium. This can lead to issues with disease. Dry to moderate air is preferable for optimal growth.

Fertilizing

Echeveria ‘Lola’ doesn’t require fertilizer as it grows. However, if your Lola hits a growth plateau or is looking bleak, you can give it a boost. Use a half-strength, liquid fertilizer that’s balanced or low in nitrogen. Don’t feed this succulent outside of its active growth stages in spring through fall.

Maintenance

Every other year, repot your plant into fresh soil. Take this opportunity to examine the roots for rot or other signs of damage. After replanting, don’t water your succulent for a few days. This will give it time to settle in and heal from any injuries.

Before repotting, check that the new container has drainage holes. Without them, water will quickly build up in the soil, causing decay in the roots. Echeveria ‘Lola’ cannot survive sitting in a puddle.

The old, lower leaves of Echeveria ‘Lola’ naturally fall off. If your succulent has some dead leaves that are still clinging to the stem, you can gently remove them by hand. Clean up any fallen leaves sitting in the pot. If left to decay, they can invite pests and diseases.

If your succulent is sending out offsets and you don’t care for the look, simply cut them off. Snip them with sharp clippers and keep the area dry while it scabs over. Instead of throwing away the offsets, try propagating them.

Propagation

Making new plants is easy and fun with this echeveria. It can be done with leaf or stem cuttings, offsets, and by division. Once you get the hang of it, you’ll be able to efficiently turn one plant into many.

Leaf Cuttings

Leaf cuttings take the longest to grow but are usually successful.

Gently twist a leaf from the stem, ensuring that the entire leaf is removed. Set it out to dry for a few days and then place it on top of well-draining soil. Mist the cutting with water until it settles roots into the ground.

It’s a slow process, but worth it when you finally see a tiny rosette rising from the leaf.

Stem Cuttings & Offsets

Stem cuttings and offsets are practically the same when it comes to propagation.

Using a sharp knife, cut through the stem about an inch below the top of the rosette. Remove any lower leaves and leave them to dry. Once the cut is scabbed over, stick your cutting upright in succulent soil and mist it with water.

If you took a stem cutting, there’s a chance that the stub of a stem left behind will grow new rosettes. Continue its normal care to encourage this growth.

Division

If your Echeveria ‘Lola’ has pups, you can leave them be or give them their own space through division.

Divide them from the parent plant by severing any connected stems or roots. Let the wounds of both plants dry for a few days and then stick them back in the ground.

Common Problems

Echeveria ‘Lola’ only has a few potential issues. Thankfully, they are easily prevented and treated, especially if caught early on.

Etiolation

Etiolation is a frequent problem with succulents. When they don’t receive enough light, the plant stretches out in search of the sun. The result is a tall and sparse succulent.

Keep your echeveria compact by giving it plenty of light to begin with. If it’s already etiolated, you can behead the rosette and propagate it.

Overwatering

Too much water can cause yellowing of leaves and create a risk of root rot. Always allow the soil to dry out completely before watering again and repot into fresh soil if you notice any signs of rot.

Pests

Mealybugs are a pesky and common threat to succulents. Once settled on a plump leaf, they drain the plant’s juice. The victim becomes discolored and wilted before its eventual death. No gardener wants to see these insects near their precious succulents.

Luckily, there are simple measures you can take to protect Lola. The most important is to keep the plant dry and the soil clear of debris. Spraying your succulent with neem oil weekly will deter and kill mealybugs (and other pests).

If your Echeveria ‘Lola’ is already infested with mealybugs, simply spray the leaves with insecticidal soap. For a small pest population, dab each insect with a cotton swab dipped in no more than 70% rubbing alcohol.

Diseases

Do you know the top cause of death for succulents? It’s not pests, location, or even negligence. The majority of succulent deaths are caused by overwatering. The damage done by this isn’t immediately noticeable, but certainly fatal.

Root rot occurs when constantly wet roots begin to decay and invite disease, a result of overwatering. It usually starts in the roots and spreads to the stem and leaves. Affected sections will turn black or brown and mushy. Unfortunately, these pieces cannot be healed.

To remove root rot, you’ll have to cut off the affected parts of the plant. Afterward, keep the succulent dry and out of the soil for a few days so it can heal. Replant it in new, dry soil.

If the majority of the stem and roots are rotted, you’ll have more success taking cuttings from the healthy parts and propagating them.

Frequently Asked Questions

Final Thoughts

If you’re new to growing succulents or want to add to your existing collection, Echeveria ‘Lola’ is a great choice. They are wonderfully low-maintenance and ideal plants for beginners.