15 Best Early Spring Vegetables

Chilly nights, lengthening days, and spring rains are the perfect conditions for your favorite cool-weather greens, roots, and snacks to flourish in your garden. Former organic farmer Logan Hailey digs into the best early spring vegetables to plant while your garden is waking up.

Carrots are one of the early spring vegetables. Close-up of a gardener holding a freshly picked bunch of carrots in the garden. Carrots have a slender, cylindrical shape with tapered ends, featuring vibrant orange skin. Their surface is smooth and slightly textured with fine root hairs. The leafy green tops are feathery and lush, contrasting beautifully with the bright hue of the root.


As your garden awakens from winter’s dormant slumber, it’s hard to imagine that many vegetables can thrive with chilly nights, random rainstorms, and unpredictable temperature swings. With your expected last frost date still weeks or months on the horizon, it’s far too early for tomatoes or cucumbers, and your winter storage crops may be dwindling. 

Fortunately, some of the best tender spring greens, roots, and snacks are eager to germinate and yield in the cool, moist soils of early spring. Let’s dig into 15 of the best early spring vegetables, including some surprising culinary delicacies that you may not have grown before.

Mache (Corn Salad)

Mache (Corn Salad)

Our Rating

Big Seeded Mache (Corn Salad) Seeds

Sugar Snap Pea

Sugar Snap Pea Seeds

Our Rating

Sugar Snap Pea Organic Seeds


French Breakfast Radish Seeds

Our Rating

French Breakfast Radish Seeds

What Vegetables Are Best for Early Spring Planting?

Close-up of fresh lettuce in the vegetable garden. Lettuce showcases a verdant and crisp appearance with its loose or tightly packed rosette of tender leaves. Its leaves are a rich green color with delicate veins running throughout. They are oval and smooth, covered with drops of water.
Early spring veggies thrive in cool weather, yield fast, and offer fresh flavors.

Spinach, mâche (corn salad), radishes, turnips, baby kale, lettuce, and sugar snap peas are among the best vegetables for early spring planting outdoors. As long as your garden is thawed and workable, these cool-tolerant veggies can germinate in soils as cold as 40°F (4°C). They don’t mind cold nights, temperature fluctuations, or spring rains, and some can yield in less than a month’s time! 

Early spring veggies tend to enjoy the cool buffer season before daytime temperatures get too hot. Some crops, like sugar snap peas, cilantro, and spinach, will bolt once the weather warms, which means spring is the best time to enjoy them while their flavor is best.

Direct seeding early spring crops ensures you have nutrient-dense flavors to add to your meals when fresh ingredients are scarce. It can also save room in your greenhouse or window sills so you can start tender crops like tomatoes and peppers indoors. 

15 Veggies to Grow in Early Spring

It’s a common misconception that you have to wait until your last spring frost to start planting. Many vegetables can be sown in the garden several weeks or even months before the expected last frost date. These cold-tolerant plants are accustomed to germinating in chilly soils and flourishing while the weather is mild.

If you live in an area with hot summers, it is particularly important to make the most of your early spring planting window to enjoy crops that will dwindle in the heat. These 15 veggies offer unique tastes and textures while the rest of your garden is still waking up.

Mâche (Corn Salad)

Close-up of Mache (Corn Salad) growing in a sunny garden. Mache presents delicate rosettes of tender, elongated leaves arranged in low-growing clusters. Its leaves are a vibrant green, with a glossy sheen, and have a smooth, rounded shape resembling small spoons.
The plant known as mâche thrives in early spring, offering nutritious and delicate leaves.

Corn salad is one of the most underrated and lesser-known spring crops in the U.S. Also called lamb’s lettuce or mâche, this classic European wild green got its nickname because it grows as a weed in winter corn fields. However, the plant is not related to corn or lettuce. It is actually a small annual plant in the honeysuckle family. 

The flavor is delicate and unique, with hints of nuttiness and crunchy butterhead-lettuce vibes. Mâche leaves are extremely nutritious and high in iron, making them a lovely substitute if you’re tired of spinach. The attractive spoon-shaped leaves are soft and slightly succulent, offering a highly palatable mouthfeel that can be adapted to many dishes.

Mâche is an essential early spring green in traditional European kitchen gardens. The low-growing rosettes grow wild throughout Europe, North Africa, and Western Asia but readily naturalize in moist, partially shaded forests of North America.

You can direct sow corn salad seeds as soon as your soil is workable, up to six weeks before your expected last frost date. The plants thrive in soils as cold as 40°F (4°C) and enjoy consistently moist, but not soggy, soil. Soil temperatures warmer than 70°F (21°C) will cause the seeds to go dormant.

At around 60 days to maturity, an early spring sowing provides greens as soon as April or May. Mâche can be harvested as baby leaves or entire rosettes. I crave the greens so much that I begin plucking side shoots as soon as the plants are a few inches in diameter. You can use the “cut and come again” harvest method by leaving at least two inches of leaves above the ground for regrowth. Eat mâche raw in salads and sandwiches, blend into pestos, or lightly sauté with spring roots.

Sugar Snap Peas

Close-up of Sugar snap pea growing in a garden. Sugar snap peas are characterized by their plump, crisp pods, vibrant green in color with a slight curvature. Sugar snap pea vines feature thin, curling tendrils that help them climb and intertwine. The leaves of sugar snap pea plants are typically composed of several pairs of oval-shaped leaflets arranged opposite each other along the stem. The leaflets are a lush green color and have a slightly waxy texture.
Directly sow sugar snap peas early in spring for optimal growth.

Springtime always brings a craving for the sweet, crispy snap of sugar snap peas. These cool-weather legumes thrive in mild weather and strongly dislike hot sun. If you want to get the most out of your pea crop, plant as early as possible because peas tend to become bitter and less productive as the summer approaches.

Sugar snaps are best directly sown as soon as the ground is thawed and workable. Some gardeners transplant sugar snap peas, but I prefer to direct sow to save time and space. The peas enjoy waking up with the warming soil between 40-60°F (4-16°C). Trellising them upwards ensures an easy harvest and more productivity in a small area. Peas are great for containers and patio gardeners, as well.

Prepare your trellis before planting so you don’t disturb the baby plants. Pound rebar stakes in the soil a couple of feet deep. Use flower netting or a fine-meshed metal fencing material rolled out between the stakes. Baling twine or twist ties work well for attaching the mesh to the rebar. Ensure that the trellis mesh hovers just two to three inches off the ground so it’s easy to train the young plants upward. 

Create two furrows about two inches deep on each side of the trellis. I prefer to drag the handle on the back of a garden tool through the soil to create the planting ditch. Sow pea seeds about twice as deep as their diameter. Most sugar snap varieties can be sown one to two inches deep. Space the peas two inches apart. They can grow close together because each plant will vine up the trellis.

Peas begin yielding within approximately two months of seeding. They enjoy full sunlight and savor the spring chill. The pretty white flowers will turn to plump crunchy pods after pollination. Harvest whenever the pod feels full yet still tender. Continuously harvesting spring peas will promote continuous growth until the weather gets too hot.

Japanese Turnips

Close-up of a gardener in white gloves with a freshly picked bunch of Japanese turnips in a sun garden. Japanese turnips are characterized by their smooth, round roots and crisp, white flesh. Their skin is a pale creamy white. The greens are vibrant and lush, with slender stems and delicate, scalloped leaves that are a rich shade of green.
Discover sweet and trendy Japanese turnips for a diverse vegetable experience.

Before you complain that you hate turnips, remember that the vegetable world is full of diversity! Grandma’s purple-and-white stew turnips are not the only varieties available. The trendy Japanese or ‘Hakurei’ turnips have taken the culinary world by storm, and they are so sweet and tasty that I’ve watched children race each other to pull them from the garden for a snack.

Japanese turnips are smooth, white, spherical roots with a sweet, crisp flavor, almost like an apple mixed with a carrot. They have notes of fruitiness and a tender, juicy texture that is best enjoyed fresh, sliced, or pickled. These cool-weather roots germinate in soil temperatures as low as 40°F (4°C). They are exceptionally sweet when nighttime temperatures are still cold, as the light frosts cause the plants to concentrate their sugars.

Direct sow Japanese turnips three to five weeks before your last frost date. As long as the soil is thawed, they will likely germinate. They enjoy plenty of compost in the upper few inches of the bed. Seed them in clumps for the most production in a small space, thinning to one to two inches between each plant. Use a layer of row fabric to speed up early growth and protect the young plants from early-season flea beetles, which can wreak havoc on spring brassica crops. The millions of shothole bites in the leaves can severely hinder production, so I always use floating row fabric with turnips.


Close-up of a growing Sorrel in a bed with mulched soil. Sorrel is distinguished by its slender, arrow-shaped leaves that are vibrant green. The leaves have a glossy texture and are slightly wrinkled.
Grow tangy sorrel for salads, prized by chefs for centuries.

Another unique and under-used green sorrel has a lovely tangy, lemony, zesty flavor that perfectly complements mild salad greens like lettuce, spinach, and mâche. Common sorrel and red-veined varieties both offer citrusy notes in their tender arrowhead-shaped greens. 

Sorrel has been grown for centuries in European cottage gardens and is another spring veggie highly coveted by chefs. Seventeenth-century gardener and author John Evelyn wrote that sorrel offers “so grateful a quickness to the salad that it should never be left out.” The early spring leaves are very high in vitamin C and amenable to a variety of recipes.

This frost-tolerant annual can be sown one to two weeks before your expected last spring first date. Use a soil thermometer probe to check that soil temperatures are at least 50°F (10°C). Some gardeners also seed in late fall or winter and allow the plants to “wake up” on their own once the weather begins warming.

The tiny seeds should only be planted ⅛” deep and very lightly dusted with soil. Don’t plant sorrel seeds too deep, or they may struggle to reach the surface and germinate. Space a cluster of two to three seeds every eight inches and thin to one plant every eight inches. Begin harvesting the crinkly green leaves once they are four to six inches tall. You can pinch or cut them and pick them regularly to encourage more growth. The youngest leaves are the most tender and flavorful. 


Close-up of a woman's hand harvesting Cress in a sunny garden. Cress is characterized by its delicate, fern-like leaves that grow in dense clusters. The leaves are small and oval-shaped, with a vibrant green color and a slightly peppery taste.
Grow peppery cress for salads and soups.

Sometimes called winter cress or upland cress, this wild green grows in boggy wetland areas throughout North America. The peppery flavor reminds me of arugula or mustards, but the leaves are delightfully tender and cold-tolerant. Cress plants can overwinter in many climates, or be sown in early spring for quick harvests. They have deep green, vitamin-rich leaves that are crinkly and crumpled, adding a unique texture to spring salads, cheese, dips, pestos, and soups.

This semi-aquatic plant is perfect for the wettest areas of your garden. Seeds germinate in soils as cold as 40°F (4°C) and can be harvested as baby greens within just 10-14 days. If you prefer larger leaves and whole rosettes, wait another few weeks before cutting.

Plant in two to four inch wide bands with about three to five seeds per foot. Thin to two inches apart for baby greens or four inches apart for rosettes. Sow cress seeds ¼” deep and keep them consistently moist. They germinate slowly but reward you with continuous harvests all spring.

In the South, these plants are nicknamed “creasy greens” because their flowers look like crosses. They are prized as one of the first edible greens to emerge in the spring in Southern Appalachia. The black-pepper-like flavor is ideal for hearty stews, pork, and tea sandwiches.


Close-up of growing Asparagus in a sunny garden. Asparagus is distinguished by its slender, spear-like stems that emerge from the soil. These stems are pale green. Asparagus spears are straight and have a slightly rough texture towards the base, while the tips are tightly closed and tender.
Plant perennial asparagus for decades of tender, flavorful spring spears.

Delicious spears of asparagus shoots are among the first plants to emerge in spring’s cool weather. This vegetable is unique because it is a perennial; you can plant asparagus crowns once and enjoy their tender, flavorful spears for decades to come. Although they take a few seasons to mature and yield larger quantities, the wait is worthwhile, as many gardeners harvest their asparagus patches for 30 years or longer! 

The quickest way to establish an asparagus patch is to start with crowns, which are one-year-old-roots that take off rapidly. You’ll need an undisturbed spot in your garden and away from annual vegetable beds because these perennials will root in for the long-haul. Ensure the soil is well-drained and fairly neutral in pH.

Plant asparagus crowns in early spring six to eight inches deep and 12-18” apart. Don’t cramp the plants together, as they need plenty of space to reach their full growth capacity. Keep newly planted crowns consistently moist and well-fertilized. Avoid harvesting spears for the first few seasons so the plant can direct its energy into root development. 

Asparagus will grow into large fronds up to six feet tall, creating a dazzling summer and fall display. These fronds make lovely floral decor and mulch, but they are not the edible part of the plant. The best part of asparagus is the newly emerged shoots that come up low to the ground in spring. Once a patch is established, you can harvest the spears by cutting or snapping from the base when they are six to eight tall.


Close-up of freshly picked Radishes in a garden bed. These root vegetables have a round shape. The skin is smooth and glossy, pink in color. Radish greens are crisp and slightly peppery, with serrated edges and a rich green color.
Plant diverse radish varieties early for easy and fast-growing spring harvests.

The quintessential ‘Easter Egg’ radish is an easy addition to spring garden beds and salads, but did you know there are over 100 varieties of radishes, each with its own distinctive colors and flavors? These round root balls range from earthy to sweet to peppery to straight-up spicy, but they all share an affinity for cool spring weather and short days.

Radish seeds can be directly sown as early as February in many climates. Seeds will germinate in soils around 40-50°F (4-10°C). These quick-maturing roots are a favorite amongst beginner gardeners because they are ridiculously easy to grow and provide fast rewards. You don’t need much space to cultivate radishes, and they can even be grown in small containers. The entire plant is edible, and many people miss out on the mild mustard-like greens.

For a more unique radish experience, try the elongated ‘French Breakfast,’ vibrant ‘Mantanghong Watermelon,’ or the ultra-spicy, blood-detoxifying ‘Round Black Spanish’ radish. Harvesting radishes young ensures the most tender texture because the skins get harder as they mature. Most varieties can be planted as close as two to three inches apart and harvested within 30-40 days. Check your seed packet for cultivar-specific spacing and maturity tips.

If you don’t like the spiciness of radish roots, be sure to grow your crop as early in the spring as possible. Hot weather typically causes more bitterness and pungent spice. These little brassicas are also prone to bolting (going to seed) when the days lengthen and the weather warms to over 80°F (27°C). Once they bolt, radishes become virtually inedible. 


Close-up of a gardener in a red plaid shirt holding a bunch of freshly picked carrots in the garden. Carrots present a vibrant and earthy appearance with their slender, orange tapering roots extending from a lush green foliage. The foliage consists of feathery, fern-like leaves that grow in dense clusters.
Sow carrots early for sweet roots, ensure consistent moisture and space seedlings.

Our favorite orange roots are infamous for their finicky germination. They take a long time to sprout and demand consistent moisture. If you let a carrot bed dry out during germination, the seeds may never emerge at all. One way to ensure more carrot success is to grow in the early months of spring while the weather is cool and rains are frequent. The extra rain reduces the need for constant irrigation, and the cooler nights promote extra sweet roots

Carrots must be directly sown to avoid disturbing their tap roots. They need warmer soils than other plants on this list, typically requiring at least 50-60°F (10-16°C) beds. Use a soil thermometer probe to assess your soil temperature before planting. Carrots are cold-hardy once they’re established, but they still need some warmth to germinate evenly. I like to use a floating row cover to conserve moisture and keep the baby seedlings cozy during the first few weeks. 

Seed carrots about ½” deep and don’t cover with too much soil. Space them ¾” to 1” apart and don’t forget to thin. Huge patches of overcrowded carrots yield measly, spindly roots. The plants have a hard time maturing when there isn’t enough space.

If you love carrots, it’s best to sow several successions throughout the spring. By scattering your plantings every two to three weeks, you will have a regular supply of fresh roots to harvest throughout late spring and early summer. 

Italian Dandelion

Close-up of an Italian Dandelion growing in a sunny garden. Italian dandelion boasts long, slender leaves with deeply toothed edges and a vibrant green color. The leaves grow in loose bunches from a central stem, forming a graceful, cascading silhouette.
Grow Italian dandelions early for health benefits and versatile culinary uses.

Dandelions get a bad rep as annoying weeds, but the Italian dandelion has been bred for delicious flavor without invasive tendencies. These slightly bitter, complex-flavored greens are extraordinarily rich in health benefits, especially for your digestive tract and liver. 

They grow in lovely rosettes and tolerate even the coldest spring weather. You can seed Italian dandelions up to six weeks before your last frost or as soon as you can get in the garden. These plants dislike warm soils, so it’s best to get them in as early as possible.

This uncommon yet delicious green tastes great in fresh salads or sautés. I love wrapping the fresh leaves around a nice cheese or prosciutto for a lovely addition to charcuterie boards. Italian dandelions are not as bitter as their wild counterparts yet offer a satisfying complementary flavor to savory and creamy foods.

Seed dandelions shallowly, about one inch apart, in rows 12-18 “apart. Thin to six to eight inches between each plant, or grow as densely sown baby greens. You can use the “cut-and-come-again” method by leaving the central growing tip intact during harvests. Pluck the leaves young for the most tender texture. If you get an unexpected late frost, don’t worry! Italian dandelions are resilient and cold-hardy. You can also harvest the roots for an herbal digestive remedy or roast and grind as a coffee substitute. 


Close-up of Cilantro plants growing in a garden bed. Cilantro presents delicate, feathery leaves atop slender stems. The leaves are bright green and deeply lobed, giving them a distinctive, lacy appearance.
Plant cilantro early and harvest regularly to prevent bolting.

While we commonly think of cilantro as a summer ingredient for fresh salsas and pico de gallo, it actually prefers the cool weather of spring. Cilantro plants are prone to bolting in hot weather, which causes them to send up tall seed stalks that turn the leaves bitter. While cilantro flowers are lovely for pollinators, and the seeds turn into the famous spice coriander, there are a few tricks you can use to prolong the leaf-harvesting phase.

Seed cilantro in soils that are at least 50°F (10°C), a few weeks before your expected last frost. Mature plants are cold hardy and can handle temperatures as low as 10°F (-12°C). However, they cannot handle the heat and will bolt or die once the weather exceeds 80°F (27°C).

Plant seeds about ½” deep and ½” apart in rows three inches apart. Cilantro does best when grown in clumps, so you can easily gather stems in your hand to chop at the base. The plants still grow well when sown thickly and have strong regrowth after each harvest. 

If you want to prolong cilantro plantings throughout the spring and early summer, sow another round every two to three weeks. I like to dry and freeze plenty of cilantro to use in midsummer salsa canning. You can also grow cilantro in the dappled shade of taller tomato plants to try to prolong its lifespan before bolting. Regular harvests, mulch near the roots, and consistent soil moisture can prevent the plants from going to seed too soon. 


Close-up of a Spinach growing under sunlight. Spinach is characterized by its vibrant green, tender leaves that are broad and oval-shaped. Spinach plants grow in compact rosettes, with leaves emerging from a central stem.
Plant spinach early for quick, cold-loving greens.

You can’t talk about spring vegetables without discussing spinach! This iconic iron-rich green absolutely loves the cold and can overwinter in many zones. If you didn’t plant it in the fall, early spring is a great time to get spinach in the ground. Baby greens can be ready as quickly as 20 days, and larger plants mature in about a month.

Spinach germinates best in soils around 40-50°F (4-10°C). The seeds will not sprout in soils hotter than 85°F (29°C). To ensure the longest harvest window possible, you can plant spinach as soon as the ground is workable. For baby greens, sow in rows about two inches apart with three to five seeds per inch. For full-size spinach leaves, sow ten seeds per foot in rows 12-18” apart. 

Plant the seeds about ½” deep and keep them consistently moist. Pluck or cut outer leaves first, taking care not to uproot the plants. You can also grab bundles of greens and cut at the base, leaving two inches of the central plant stems to regrow in a couple of weeks.

Be sure to choose the type of spinach you enjoy most. The two main types of spinach are:


These standard spinaches are more tender and neutral, with smooth, less crunchy leaves. They are mostly used for salads, canning, and freezing.


These varieties have crinkly leaves and a richer flavor. They’re more cold-hardy and denser for use in heavier-dressed salads, sautes, and soups.


Close-up of arugula plants growing in rows in a garden. Arugula, also known as rocket or roquette, is characterized by its deeply lobed, elongated leaves with a distinct peppery flavor. The leaves are dark green, with slender stems connecting them to a central rosette.
Plant arugula early for fast and continuous growth.

Impatient spring gardeners absolutely love arugula. This extra early green can yield in less than three weeks and continuously grow back throughout the spring. Like their radish cousins, arugula plants tend to get spicier and more peppery as the weather warms. If you want milder arugula flavor, plant early while the weather is still cool. The plants are also prone to bolting in hot weather.

Arugula germinates best in cool soils around 40-45°F (4-7°C). You can direct seed three to four weeks before your expected last frost date. As spring progresses, arugula becomes more prone to attack by pests, especially flea beetles. I like to plant arugula near my Japanese turnips and keep them both covered with floating row fabric. The row cover physically deters flea beetles, so the leaves stay nice and free of holes. 

Green Onions

Close-up of Green onions growing in rows in a garden bed. Green onions, also known as scallions, are characterized by their long, slender stalks and vibrant green tops. The stalks are cylindrical and hollow, tapering towards the tip, while the green tops are flat and leaf-like.
Plant green onions close together for quick and spring garnish harvests.

Sometimes called scallions, green onions are a lovely spring flavor garnish to your favorite dishes. You can technically grow green onions from any standard onion seed by planting them closer together and harvesting them while young. Sowing just one to two inches apart yields nice, vibrant stalks of green onion that can be pulled once they are slightly larger than a pencil thickness. Growing from true seed yields scallions in five to six weeks, but if you want an even quicker crop, try this trick…

Onion sets are mini pre-grown onion bulbs that can be planted similarly to garlic. If you plant onion sets close together in early spring, they will yield green onions in just a few weeks! You can plant onions several weeks before your last frost date as long as the soil is thawed and workable. Green onions are somewhat cold-hardy, but can’t handle temperatures below 20°F (-7°C).

This is also the time to plant full-size bulb onions for summer use and fall storage. I like to establish my full-size onions indoors in cell trays and transplant them out around my last frost date. Medium and large onions require more spacing and a lot more time to mature, and you’ll want to be sure you choose the right variety (short-day or long-day onions) for your climate. Check out this guide for growing showstopper onions from seed.


Close-up of lettuce growing in a garden bed. Lettuce is characterized by its loose or compact arrangement of crisp, leafy greens. The leaves are round, with a slightly wrinkled texture. Their color is light green.
Plant diverse lettuce blend for quick, easy spring salad harvests.

Round off your early spring salad ingredients with a nice colorful lettuce planting. These classic, refreshing greens don’t require much fertility or maintenance, and gladly germinate in soils as cold as 40°F (4°C). Once established, lettuce plants can handle mild frosts down to about 25°F (-4°C), but young plants grow better with a bit of protection such as floating row fabric or a low tunnel.

While many gardeners like head lettuce, I prefer to grow lettuce in a medley baby green blend. This method yields harvestable greens in less than a month, and it allows you to grow a diversity of colors and flavors in a smaller space. You can purchase a pre blended ‘Mesclun Mix’ or shake together a bunch of lettuce seed packets in a bag to create your own blend. 

As soon as your garden is workable, broadcast sprinkle the seeds over a bed, aiming for about one to two inches between plants. Cover with the slightest dusting of soil to ensure they aren’t sown too deep. Maintain consistent moisture and begin harvesting when plants are four to six inches tall. Grab a small handful of greens and use sharp, sanitized shears to cut just above the base of the plant. Leave about one inch of growth at the soil surface so the plants can grow back for a second harvest. 

Baby Kale

Close-up of Baby kales growing in rows in a garden bed. Baby kale boasts small, tender leaves that are vibrant green in color, with delicate veins running through them. These leaves are softer and more tender compared to mature kale, with a slightly curly texture.
Start kale indoors or direct seed outside for quick, tender harvests.

Spring is a great time to start your long-season, larger kale plants indoors in cell trays. But you can also direct seed baby kale outside for a quicker reward. Technically, any variety of kale can be grown as baby greens if you plant them closer together and harvest them young. The baby leaves are more tender and sweeter from the chilly spring nights.

Kale is known for its cold tolerance and can germinate in chilly soils as cold as 50°F (10°C). Sow the seeds ¼” deep with about two to five seeds per inch. The planting will resemble your lettuce greens mix explained above. As long as each plant has ½” to one inch of space from its neighbor, it will grow into a moderately sized “teenager” kale plant that provides several harvests of soft, young leaves. Use the “cut-and-come-again” method to prolong the spring growth,

Baby kale tastes amazing when tossed with olive oil and aged balsamic or blended into a kale chimichurri. The nutrient-dense greens are easy to grow in containers or grow bags and get sweeter after a light frost. Summer kale tends to succumb to annoying pests like aphids, and the plants become prone to bolting when the weather gets too hot. I prefer to get my kale fix in the early spring and fall when these plants shine best. 

Final Thoughts

Gardening becomes a lot easier when you flow with the seasons rather than against them. Instead of trying to grow ultra-early zucchini or squash with greenhouses and low tunnels, you can embrace the cool-weather gifts of early spring vegetables. Our bodies naturally crave certain crops with the changing of the season, and many spring greens and roots provide a dose of nutrition that we’ve been craving during the dark months of winter. 

Experiment with lesser-known veggies like mache, cress, and Italian dandelions, and make the most of the cool weather to grow your highest-quality crops of cilantro, radishes, and turnips. Remember, a soil thermometer is the best way to determine the ideal seed-sowing time. If the soil is too cold or too hot, many seeds won’t germinate at all.

A close-up revealing pineberries, small white berries with red seeds, showcasing their unique appearance. These strawberries exhibit an intriguing combination of pale hues and vibrant red seeds, creating a visually distinctive fruit. Atop the berries, delicate green leaves add a touch of freshness to the composition.


How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Pineberries

Have you tried pineberries? They’re the white strawberries that taste like pineapple and are as pretty as they are tasty. Grow them in your garden with your favorite scarlet strawberries to spice up the collection. Explore how to plant, grow, and care for the lovely pineberry with garden expert Katherine Rowe.

drip irrigation schedule. Close-up of young garlic plants growing in a garden with drip irrigation. The garlic plant displays a distinctive appearance characterized by its upright, slender stalks and elongated, linear leaves. Growing from a bulb buried in the soil, the plant's leaves are a rich green color and have a slightly flattened, strap-like shape. Drip irrigation is a water-efficient system characterized by a network of tubing and emitters that deliver water directly to the base of plants.


How Often and How Long Should I Run Drip Irrigation?

Adding a drip irrigation system to your garden allows you to apply water to your plants’ roots easily. However, installing a drip irrigation system is just the first step. Join former vegetable farmer Briana Yablonski as she explains how often and how long to run drip irrigation.

View of English Cottage garden styles. Close-up of an old English cottage with old wooden doors, abundantly covered with climbing Clematis in bloom. Around the house there are flowering hydrangea bushes and an apple tree with ripe fruits. On the porch there are two flowerpots with African daisies in bloom and begonia in bloom. There is a wreath of fresh carnation flowers hanging on the door.

Ornamental Gardens

19 Beautiful Garden Styles for Your Outdoor Landscape

Garden styles bring boundless inspiration, whether designing a new garden, reimagining an existing space, or daydreaming about adding a few new elements. Recognized styles show us what works to create dynamic spaces, with countless opportunities for adding our combinations and preferences. Garden designer Katherine Rowe explores prominent garden styles to inspire beautiful, functional landscapes.