How to Plant, Grow, And Care for Agastache Aurantiaca

Agastache aurantiaca is a powerful pollinator plant that brings all the hummingbirds to your garden. Small varieties make an excellent border, while the taller types are excellent as a backdrop in a butterfly garden. Kelli Klein provides these top tips for growing hummingbird mint at home.

A small composition of agastache aurantiaca in a well lit area outdoors

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Agastache aurantiaca, also known as hummingbird mint or giant hyssop, can attract hummingbirds to cottage gardens, particularly in the western parts of North America. They zip into view and disappear just as fast as they arrive, so maybe you only catch a glimpse in the corner of your eye. 

However, if you want hummingbirds to hang around your yard for longer than a few seconds, consider planting Agastache aurantiaca, also known as hummingbird mint! Yes, you could employ the fake plastic red flowers filled with sugar water, but why not grow a real flower that will benefit other pollinators like butterflies, bees, and birds as well? 

Giant hyssop comes in many varieties, but the most popular flower colors are usually orange or purple. There are tall and dwarf varieties as well, which means there is hummingbird mint for every corner of your landscape. The smaller varieties make a lovely border and the tall varieties provide a backdrop for butterfly gardens and bring in bumble bees, specifically. 

Since Agastache aurantiaca is edible (in the mint family, after all), it is often included in herb and cottage gardens. In its native habitat, it is very easy to care for and drought-tolerant once mature. The flowers bloom from summer to late summer or early fall, and because of their tubular shape, they’re particularly good at attracting hummingbirds. 

Agastache aurantiaca has pollen-rich flowers that are also attractive to bees and beneficial insects, and it has plenty of nectar for butterflies and moths, too! When the flowers go to seed in zones that have the fall in November, they provide a rich food source for birds. It is considered to be deer-resistant and has properties that reputedly repel mosquitos. What more could you ask for? 

Plant Overview

Plant Type Flowering perennial
Family Lamiaceae
Genus Agastache
Species Agastache aurantiaca
Native Area Mexico
Exposure Full sun to partial shade
Height 2-4′
Watering Requirements Low
Pests & Diseases Flea beetles, slugs, powdery mildew, root rot
Maintenance Low
Soil Type Well-draining, loam
Hardiness Zone 6-9

What is Agastache Aurantiaca?

Agastache aurantiaca is also known by many other names such as hummingbird mint, giant hyssop, licorice mint, mosquito plant, and sometimes anise hyssop. Some of these names are actually misnomers since Agastache aurantiaca is a different genus than true hyssop, Hyssop officinalis. 

Though they are both in the Lamiaceae family and have similar traits and appearances, Agastache aurantiaca usually has a more anise or licorice scent than true hyssop. For this reason, we’ll be referring to Agastache aurantiaca. It is important to note that anise hyssop can also refer to the specific species Agastache foeniculum and Agastache cana as well. 

Native Area

A shot of a composition of orange colored perennial flowers alongside other foliage in a well lit area outdoors
The perennial is native to Mexico.

Agastache aurantiaca is native to Mexico, specifically the northeast, but it is also plentiful in western North America, all the way west to Arizona. Most varieties are winter-hardy perennials. Agastaches are hardy in USDA zones 4-10, but this one is hardy in zones 6-9.

Characteristics

A shot of a hummingbird feeding on flowers of a perennial in an area outdoors
The perennial boasts tall tubular flower spikes perfect for hummingbirds or certain species of bees.

They produce tall spikes of tubular flowers which are perfectly suited for long, thin hummingbird bills and certain species of bees. They are often referred to as hummingbird mints since they belong to the same family as mints and are known for their ability to attract hummingbirds to the garden. 

Perennial transplants can be planted out in spring after the last frost or in early fall to establish before the cold of winter sets in. The second option will give you a jump on the following year’s spring growth. They typically flower from summer to fall, but in mild climates, they can continue blooming into November.

All parts of this hyssop are edible, including flowers and leaves. In addition to attracting pollinators and hummingbirds, it can also be used as an herb. The flowers make a beautiful and perfect garnish and the leaves are especially delicious when brewed in tea. 

Varieties

There are several species of agastache, numbering to 22 species total with varying flower colors. While we are focusing on Agastache aurantiaca here, there are other species that are worth mentioning. 

‘Apricot Sprite’

A close-up shot of a flower spike of the Apricot Sprite variety
This variety comes in peachy apricot to orange colors and has a bushy growth habit.

Agastache aurantiaca ‘Apricot Sprite’ boasts tall dense spikes of peachy apricot to orange flowers that bloom from early to late summer. It also has a bushy compact habit and grows well in containers. 

This variety is particularly disease-resistant and great for gardeners who want vibrant summer flowers and a low-maintenance perennial garden. It is also resistant to deer and rabbits, making it perfect for areas where you want to keep them out.

‘Tango’, ‘Mango Tango’

A close-up shot of a developing flower spike of the Mango Tango variety, showcasing it purple salvia and orange flowers
It produces orange flowers along a purple salvia.

Agastache ‘Tango’ or ‘Mango Tango’ is another dwarf and bushy variety that grows well in containers and small spaces. It produces fiery orange tubular flowers in the garden. The bright orange color of the flower creates a contrast that looks stunning planted alongside purple salvia. 

‘Coronado®’

A shot of several developing Coronado variety of perennials, showcasing its red colored petals in a well lit area outdoors
This variety features silver-green colored leaves and orange-red colored flowers.

Agastache aurantiaca ‘Coronado®’ has silver-green leaves and tall spikes of orange-red flowers, akin to the palette of ‘Apricot Sprite’ and ‘Tango’.

‘Coronado® Red’ is a registered trademark. This doesn’t prohibit the propagation of this trademarked variety but does protect the name itself. Others could propagate this variety, but would have to give it a name other than ‘Coronado Red’ hyssop if they plan to sell it in the plant trade.

Agastache cana

A close-up shot of a purple colored flower called Mosquito plant
It boasts licorice minty-scented leaves that can repel mosquitos.

The varieties in this species are also known as mosquito plants because their licorice minty-scented leaves have been said to repel mosquitos. Texas hummingbird mint produces raspberry-pink to mauve-colored blooms in the garden. 

Agastache foeniculum

A shot of several tall flower spikes of the Anise hyssop, showcasing its purple colored blooms and green leaves outdoors
It is known to be edible and has an anise fragrance.

The Agastache foeniculum species is also referred to as anise hyssop, which can be confusing because that is also used as a general term for all of the varieties that we’re discussing here today. This anise-scented variety is usually grown for its edible leaves. 

While all hyssops can be eaten, certain varieties and species are propagated specifically for their flavor. The leaves and purple flower of Agastache foeniculum are wonderful in both hot and iced teas. This species is extremely winter hardy down to colder USDA zones, including USDA zone 1!

Agastache rupestris ‘Apache Sunset’

A shot of several developing Apache Sunset flowers alongside thin stems in a well lit area outdoors
It has a unique root beer fragrance and produces sunset-colored blooms.

The Agastache rupestris ‘Apache Sunset’ species is a hardy first-year blooming variety. Its edible foliage and blooms have a unique root beer scent! As its name would suggest it produces sunset-colored yellow-orange blooms, much like the orange produced by Agastache aurantiaca ‘Apricot Sprite’ and Agastache ‘Tango’. 

Planting

A shot of several developing perennial flowers outdoors
Plant the perennials in a location that receives full sun and has well-draining soil.

First choose a well-draining, sunny location with fertile, slightly sandy or loamy soil.

Sow seeds in early spring after the last frost or start them indoors six to eight weeks before transplanting. Press seeds lightly into the soil without covering them completely, as they need light to germinate. Keep the soil consistently moist until germination, which usually takes 10-20 days.

Space seedlings 12-18 inches apart to allow airflow. Water moderately.

For bigger plants purchased in nursery bags, dig a hole slightly larger than the root ball, and place it so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Backfill with soil, gently firming it around the roots. Water thoroughly after planting and keep the soil moderately moist until established.

How to Grow

Whether you’ve chosen the orange color scheme of ‘Apricot Sprite’ or the purple of a true anise hyssop, these perennials require very little care. Meeting their basic needs will ensure that your agastache species thrive and readily self-seed even more for next year’s butterfly gardens! 

Light

A shot of an orange perennial basking in bright sunlight outdoors
The perennial flowers do best in full sun to partial shades.

All species of hummingbird mint (including orange Agastache aurantiaca ‘Apricot Sprite’, ‘Tango’, and ‘Coronado’) do best in full sun to partial shade. They prefer six to eight hours of direct sunlight per day.

Water

A person wearing a grey shirt holding a garden hose in the process of watering
The plants are drought-tolerant and they will only need regular watering when young.

Like most drought-tolerant plant types, giant hyssop does not like to be kept in consistently moist soils. They will need regular watering when they are young and/or for a few weeks after first transplanting. However, beyond this, they can go with as little as one inch of water per week. If you are in zones that receive regular rainfall then you may not need to water them at all. 

Be sure to water at the base as most of the disease issues that anise hyssop perennials suffer from are the result of overly moist conditions. These can move to the leaves when they get wet. In areas with high humidity, be sure to give them extra space to provide sufficient airflow to help resist these diseases. 

Once temperatures begin to dip below 40°F (4°C) in the fall, you may cease watering for the season. Your hyssop will go dormant, and zones that receive snowfall over the colder seasons often provide enough moisture. 

However, in a particularly dry freeze, you may want to water them at least once per month to provide moist soil that protects roots, but only after the last average frost, and only if soil temperatures are above 40°F (4°C).

Soil

Rich, brown loamy soil teeming with nutrients, perfect for cultivating a vibrant garden. Its texture is smooth and crumbly, providing an ideal environment for plants to root deeply and thrive abundantly.
Place the plants with well-draining oil.

As mentioned above, anise hyssop does not like overly moist conditions. For this reason, the most important soil requirement is to provide them with well-drained soil. Avoid low-lying areas of your garden or areas near a downspout. Avoid any areas that don’t have access to well-drained soil. 

Amend the soil with compost at the time of transplanting, or when you direct sow seeds. They can generally survive poor soil conditions, but prefer a neutral pH range between 6.5-8. 

Temperature

A shot of a developing orange colored perennial and its purple salvia outdoors
The plant develops best in hardiness zones 6 to 9.

Their ideal temperature ranges occur naturally in USDA zones 6-9. However, there are varieties that have exceptional winter hardiness in colder USDA zones and can be grown in more northern climates. Although they are perennials that are designed to survive in cold, it’s worth noting that in colder climates (above USDA zones 5), they are tender perennials that may benefit from additional protection like coverage with burlap bags starting in November.

Fertilizing

A garden spade holds a dense clump of dark, nutrient-rich compost. The shovel is poised over a garden bed, with hints of leafy plants and vibrant red stems in the background, ready for soil enrichment.
Amend the site with compost before planting, additional fertilizer may cause more harm than good.

Amend the planting site with compost before planting. Additional fertilizer is generally not necessary. In fact, it can cause more harm than good. Fertilizers can cause anise hyssop to focus on producing foliage rather than flowers. Which can also cause it to flower later in the season. 

Too much fertility can reduce the essential oils in the foliage and flowers, negating the purpose of caring for it if you’ve chosen to grow it as an herb for its delicious foliage. Fertilizers can also cause it to grow too quickly, resulting in leggy, floppy stems. 

Maintenance

An overhead shot of a clean hand pruner with blue handles, placed on top of a wooden surface
Pinching and deadheading will promote bushier growth and encourage more blooms.

In early spring, pinch back the tips to promote bushier growth. Deadhead the flowers to encourage more blooms. When grown as a perennial it is not advisable to prune anise hyssops after midsummer. The standing stalks will provide protection. Cut back the following spring, just before new growth emerges. 

While hummingbird mint or anise hyssop is not considered invasive its flowers can self-seed and expand. If you wish to control this, then you may choose to cut back the flower heads at the end of the season before they go to see, however, as mentioned above, leave the stalks standing until the following spring. 

Propagation

An isolated shot of seeds of a giant hyssop
The perennials can be propagated by seeds or by division.

While agastaches can be divided, the most reliable method of propagation is by seed. Although it is a perennial, it can be short-lived, with a lifespan of two to three years. It will, however, readily self-seed if you avoid deadheading the spent blooms. 

To get the most out of this perennial’s short lifespan, let it go to seed at the end of the year to encourage new ones to take over as older ones fade away. You can also collect the seeds at the end of the season to spread them to other areas of your landscape. 

Seeds can be sown four weeks before your last frost date. Keep them well watered while they are young tender seedlings and then back off on watering once they reach maturity and become established. 

There are some dwarf varieties that can be grown in containers. This makes them perfect for those who have limited in-ground space, but still want to create a butterfly garden or hummingbird haven. 

Since agastaches are such short-lived perennials, you will likely get away with not needing to re-pot, provided that it is planted in an adequate-sized container to begin with. Consult the planting tag that comes along with the variety that you’ve chosen or the seed packets for specific container recommendations. 

Common Problems

Agastache aurantiaca is relatively trouble-free especially when grown in its native habitat. That being said there are a few things to keep in mind when choosing a planting site.

Growing Problems

A shot of developing perennial in a well lit area outdoors
Most growth issues occur during the cold season or in areas that are not well-drained.

Most problems occur over cold seasons when the perennial is dormant and most susceptible to damage. For this reason, it is recommended to delay pruning or cutting back until early spring, just before new growth appears. It can also be beneficial to offer winter protection in areas with extreme cold, like coverage with burlap.

Planting your agastaches in areas that aren’t well-drained can also put them at risk for contracting disease. In compacted areas they also grows much more slowly, and may not self-propagate like healthier ones would.  

Pests

A close up shot of a bluish green flea beetle
Flea beetles, slugs or snails are common pests of this plant.

If you notice ragged, uneven holes chewed into the leaves of your black pepper, then you may have a flea beetle issue. These small, black jumping beetles can decimate leaves if the infestation is left unchecked, Tachinid flies and certain parasitic wasps are the natural predators of this beetle. 

In a balanced ecosystem, they show up shortly after the beetles to feast on them. If human intervention is required, they can be controlled with the application of neem oil. They can also be deterred by intercropping with thyme and mint as these beetles are repelled by the strong scents. 

Slugs and snails can also become an issue in humid and wet environments. Slug and snail damage will appear as large ragged holes in the leaves. You may even see a mucous trail near your hyssops. Slugs and snails are especially active in early spring before other insects have become active. 

Snail traps can also be made by burying a cup or tin of beer at ground level. Snails and slugs are attracted to it, fall in, and can’t climb back out. 

Diseases

A close-up of a plant's roots affected by a fungus, showing discolored, decaying roots and dark soil.
Powder mildew and root rot are the main diseases of the plant, all caused by excess moisture and humidity.

Powdery mildew and root rot are fungal issues that are caused by or exacerbated by excess moisture and humidity. Provide Agastache aurantiaca with good air circulation and keep the area around your flowers free of excess material and debris to help prevent these issues. 

It’s best to remove infected plant material before it can spread. 

Root rot, in particular, can be exacerbated by overwatering, and since anise hyssop can be quite drought tolerant it’s best to underwater it rather than risk overwatering it. The symptoms of root rot will appear as a soft mushy stem, wilting, and of course rotten roots. 

This type of rot is harder to recover from but can be remedied if there are still fresh, white roots that have not yet turned to mush. Cut back the rotted roots and replant the pot into dry media. If your Agastache aurantiaca is directly in the ground rather than in containers, cut back on watering and allow the area to dry out completely before watering again. 

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Agastache invasive?

Agastache is not invasive, although it will self-seed and spread year after year in its hardiness zones.

Is Agastache annual or perennial?

Agastache aurantiaca is a perennial that prefers to be planted in USDA zones 6-9.

Does Agastache come back every year?

Yes! Once it establishes it will come back each year in its hardiness zones.

How many years do Agastache live?

They are short-lived perennials that usually live for two to three years on average even in zones where they are hardy. However, because they easily self-seed, there will be new hyssops ready to take their place not far behind!

Should Agastache be cut back in the fall?

This is not necessary, however, they should be cut back in the spring just before new growth emerges. This goes for all species, including ‘Tango’, and in zones where they are hardy as well.

How quickly does Agastache grow?

They can grow slowly at first, with seeds taking an average of 12-14 days to germinate, but once they get going they can spread vigorously throughout the garden.

Does Agastache smell like mint?

It does! It is in the same family as others like mint and sage. It is also for this reason that it is sometimes referred to as hummingbird mint. Other varieties, like ‘Apricot Sprite’ and ‘Tango’, have varying scents.

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