Till or No Till: The Great Debate In Gardens

Join soil expert Ben Anderson as he discusses the differences between till or no-till methodology, how it's used in the field, and how you can apply these techniques to your own garden practices.

Deciding whether to till or no till, using a rake can be an effective way to prepare soil before planting anything

Contents

To till or not to till, that is the question! This topic is constantly in debate, and there are certainly benefits to utilizing both of these methods. The usefulness of each method also changes with each varying application.

Tillage is the process of disturbing soil frequently to prepare for planting. Equipment varies in purpose, intensity, and depth. 

As someone who has spent time studying tillage and its various impacts on soil, environment, and productivity, I can say that this topic gets complicated. This article will outline till and no-till methods and what their overall impacts are. 

What Is Conventional Tillage?

Close-up of a man's hand checking loose, dark brown soil in a garden bed.
The extent of tillage can depend on the area’s size.

Conventional tillage practices are widely used by home and commercial growers. These conventional practices are any that require soil disturbance. The tools vary in depth and intensity. 

In larger farm operations, moldboard plows are used for reaching 8-12 inches deep into the ground and turning it over. This is also called primary tillage as it is the first step in a multistep process.

Disc plows are used in secondary and tertiary tillage passes. Those plows loosen soil closer to the surface at depths of 5-8 inches. Deep rippers and subsoilers are other varieties of tillage equipment that aim to alleviate compaction at greater depths.  Many of these plows would not be used for the home gardener considering the size and scope of production. 

For home gardeners with smaller areas of land, rototillers are common forms of rotational tillage equipment. These devices can be hooked up to small tractors or be pushed. They till 4-6 inches deep.

What Is No-Tillage And Conservation Tillage?

A tool with a steel head and wooden handle buried in dark brown soil, appearing almost black while reflective some light from the sun
There various ways to prepare soil while some use no-till approaches.

As the name implies, no-till involves not disturbing the soil at all. In an ideal system, it includes cover crops so that the soil is never left bare.

No-till goes along with a larger umbrella of tillage methods called conservation tillage. As a whole, these methods aim to disturb the soil as little as possible.

Strip and chisel tillage are two of the other prominent types of conservation tillage. Strip tillage involves disc plowing in small bands where crops are grown. In between these areas is ideally crop residue. Chisel tillage roughs up the surface and leaves 50-70% of the crop residue on the surface.

There is equipment made specifically for this system of farming. Farmers use no-till practices like a no-till planter or seeder that cuts through the plant residue and plants or seeds.

Cover Crops

A close-up of a microclover lawn revealing the intricately patterned microclover leaves. They are small and delicate, with a vibrant green color, creating a lush and dense ground cover.
Cover crops are vital in any farming system.

A critical component of any farming system is cover crops. Cover crops are any crops used to cover the soil, providing benefits for overall soil and environmental health. These crops are grown in fields not in use during the season or in fields during off-seasons (fall/winter).

There are a variety of soil cover plant types that all serve different purposes. Some common crops include winter rye, oats, winter peas, hair vetch, clover, forage radish, oilseed, buckwheat, sudangrass, and sunflowers.

Crops like winter rye and oats produce higher amounts of biomass and have fibrous roots. This helps add more carbon to the soil. Legume cover crops (hairy vetch, winter peas, and clovers) produce less biomass but have relationships with bacteria in the soil that help convert nitrogen in the atmosphere into usable forms for plants. They provide some nitrogen for the soil and crops following them.

Some of the brassicas like forage radish and oilseed help alleviate compaction. They have big, strong taproots that can help loosen compaction and provide avenues for other crops to find water and nutrients. These crops also scavenge nutrients from lower in the soil profile, bringing them closer to the soil surface.

Cover crop mixes are the best, especially when integrating legumes and grass cover crops together. This ensures the eventual soil carbon-to-nitrogen ratio is better. Including cover crops also helps reduce weed pressure throughout the year.

Till Vs No-Till

Comparing these two systems gets complicated when considering all aspects of the growing process like soil health, productivity, and environmental benefit. These comparisons will be based on larger growing operations, but many of these concepts can be scaled down for home gardener purposes. 

Weed Control

Close-up of a gardener's hand in a white and blue glove with a handful of pulled weeds in the garden.
Controlling weeds is crucial to helping young plants grow and mature.

Controlling weeds is a constant issue amongst small and large growers. In large-scale organic options, weed control is incredibly challenging without the use of tillage. This is because of the limited options of chemical controls of weeds.

Understanding what weed you are attempting to manage is critical in understanding what management tool to use. While many weeds are managed well through tillage, others are made worse because of tillage, like bermudagrass.

For home gardeners, preventing weeds early is critical to getting small plants going. This is where tillage before planting comes into play, as weeds will be gone initially. This allows plants to get a good start. Once the plants are established, weeds play a smaller role in productivity.

In large-scale operations, weeds are problematic at harvesting time since harvesting machines would be messed up by the weeds. Home gardeners are harvesting by hand mostly, making a continuous no-till method of weed management less of a concern. 

Compaction

Close-up of a garden trowel with a wooden handle lying in dark brown, textured soil.
Compaction is an issue usually resolved by tillage.

One of the common purposes of tillage is to alleviate compaction.

While there may be less compaction in the depth that was tilled, consistent tillage leaves an extremely compacted layer beneath. This is more problematic for large-scale farms where heavy machinery is used. Bare earth and wet conditions exacerbate this problem.

This is problematic for water infiltration as the lack of channels and pores prevents water movement. Roots are unable to move past this layer and will be limited to the top 8-12 inches. This limits access to water and nutrients as well.

No-till systems have a reduction in this compaction. Including a forage radish or oilseed in either a till or no-till system can reduce this soil compaction.

Erosion and Nutrient Loss

A close-up of a finger pointing towards a mound of brown loamy soil in a garden bed.
Soil tends to erode after tilling.

Soil erosion is one of the most important factors when considering which tillage system to use. In conventional tillage, there are two parts where erosion takes place. The first is during the tillage itself, as soil loss due to wind erosion occurs because of the soil being disturbed.

After fields are tilled, the soil is also susceptible to soil erosion caused by water from rainfall. Both your soils and their nutrients can be washed away, leading to worse soil health and polluting waterways.

In no-till systems, frequently crop residues remain. These residues act as a barrier between the raindrops and the soil. It reduces the disturbance of the rain and since the soil structure is preserved, the infiltration is improved. More water will infiltrate the soil versus running off the surface. Including a cover crop increases the effectiveness of the protection. 

Soil Organic Matter and Soil Organic Carbon 

Close-up of a gardener in green rubber boots, black trousers and a plaid shirt, spreading compost on a garden bed using a garden rake.
Tillage can alter the soil significantly, affecting its composition.

Looking at soil organic carbon and carbon sequestration is important when thinking about climate change and greenhouse gases like carbon dioxide. Organic matter and soil organic carbon are critical parts of soil that are complicated topics. 

The goal for sequestering carbon is to get stable carbon into the soil. Stable carbon is organic matter broken down into molecules that remain in the soil for a long time.

While there is stable carbon, there is also carbon that turns over quickly. Some quickly broken carbon is released into the atmosphere. The key to carbon sequestration and helping climate change lies in the roots of plants and decreasing decomposition. Decreased decomposition reduces the greenhouse gas, carbon dioxide. Roots ultimately make up a greater percentage of the stable carbon. 

Tillage leads to a decrease in the amount of stable organic carbon. Often, stable carbon is found in aggregation with soil particles. Tillage disrupts these stable aggregations and increases the rate of decomposition of plant material into less stable forms.

This study showcases some of the differences in aggregation and stable carbon in tilled and untilled soil. Organic matter and carbon are critical for healthy soil, and tillage decreases these two things. In this way, the environmental benefits of the no-till method are an improvement over conventional till methods. 

Soil Structure

Delicate hands carefully placing a 'Heritage' Raspberry seedling into a prepared hole in the fertile, dark soil. The young plant exhibits tender green leaves and promises the bounty of succulent raspberries in the seasons to come. Nestled in its earthy bed, it begins its journey towards maturity.
Some practice are better at maintaining the soil structure, which can affect root health.

As plants grow, their roots will want to take the path of least resistance. Plants use channels created by organisms and other plant roots to find nutrients and water. Mixes of air, water, soil, minerals, and organic matter are intertwined with the structure of the soil. 

Organic matter is specifically important for creating stable aggregates which help with pore space. Tillage destroys the structure. Tillage breaks up the soil entirely so all of the channels, pores, and aggregates are reduced. The problem only gets worse as tillage usage increases.

No-till practices limit soil disturbance, so the structure is preserved. The improved soil structure benefits root growth and water infiltration. 

Fungi and Bacteria

A pile of loose dark brown soil placed in various piles with fencing surrounding the area, with greens in the background
Disrupting soil can also disturb vital fungi living in it.

Soil biological activity including soil microorganisms and fungi is an important factor in healthy soil.  Mycorrhizal fungi create networks of extremely small filaments called hyphae throughout the soil and build relationships with most plants.

Plants give the fungi sugars in exchange for water and nutrients like phosphorus that plants struggle to obtain normally. Imagine these networks as spiderwebs connecting trees and plants. 

When tilled, these connections are broken and take time to rebuild. Constant tillage prevents these connections from forming. We find a similar occurrence with microbial communities.

This study from NCBI looked at microorganism communities and nutrient cycling. The study found that the improved microorganism communities also improved nutrient cycling. This makes it even more important to keep the soil untilled.

Soil Temperature and Moisture

A black soil meter, partly submerged, gauges moisture in brown soil, signaling ideal conditions for plant growth. The stark contrast between the meter's black hue and the earthy brown soil showcases the synergy of technology and nature.
Some methods can warm up the soil to prepare it for plants.

One reason for tilling is to warm up soils to plant. Some areas of the United States with longer winters find that soils are too cold to plant and need to till so that the soil warms up faster and plants can be grown. The regions have much shorter growing seasons, making it more important to get crops growing.

Reducing soil moisture is also a common reason for tilling, as it will tend to dry the soil out. Ultimately, attempting to increase organic matter will help with this more than a conventional till, which is a short-term solution. In addition, tilling on big farms requires large, heavy equipment. That combined with already wet soil will lead to greater compaction. 

For home gardeners, pulling back crop residue can reduce soil moisture. If you’re trying to manage weeds, that may be a perk. However, if you’re in one of the many drought-prone areas, a no-till method can also be used to produce green manure that helps retain moisture in the ground. No-tillage methods like chop-and-drop are great for this, and by planting crops that you’ll chop-and-drop later, you’re reducing the likelihood of weed problems at the same time.

The Verdict

Someone using their bare hand to touch and grab a handful of soil, with dark brown soil in the background along with some bright greens
Choosing the right practices depend on your needs as a farmer or gardener.

Most of what has been discussed in this article is in terms of large or medium-scale farmers on multiple acres of land. Many of these things are scalable to home gardeners growing in-ground and raised beds.

Reducing the amount of tillage by adopting no-till practices in any capacity is a good thing for the soil and the planet, but not everyone is set up for continuous no-till methods. 

Planting cover crops in a crop rotation with other crops in raised and in-ground beds can be very beneficial. One thing to consider is to plant seeds early enough (depending on the climate) so that plants can get good growth before the winter chill. 

Overall, the choice is up to the gardener. Exercising patience may allow the full benefit of a no-till system. On the other hand, there are several situations where tillage is required based on the limited options of herbicides for organic production. 

Frequently Asked Questions

Is till or no-till farming better?

No-till farming is better than till farming systems for the planet, and can be just as productive or more productive, especially compared to frequently tilled soil.

What is the purpose of no-till?

No-till is a system that’s much better for the system as a whole including the soil and the environment. No-till does not use any tillage, it benefits many soil properties, limits erosion, and nutrient cycling. As a whole, it promotes healthier soil.

Why don’t more farmers use no-till?

In many cases, tillage has been used in many different generations of farmers. While there are plenty of extremely successful farmers using no-till, conventional tillage is dominant in the United States.  Switching to no-till acres of farmland does not necessarily show the benefits immediately which makes seeing the benefit of adopting no-till farming hard. It takes multiple years generally of continuous no-till practices to maximize benefits.

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