How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Star Jasmine
Sweetly fragrant star jasmine is a garden stunner. It has pretty flowers and can be trained to grow as a shrub, climber, or ground cover. Rachel Garcia will share a complete guide to growing it, which will help you raise your own superstar climber!

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Ever admire the big houses with fancy landscapes that are featured in gardening magazines? In many of those photos, star jasmine is likely to be one of the main features. Not only does it have a knock-out name, but this vine is definitely a show stopper.
The big allure of star jasmine is in its flowers. In late spring, large clusters of the most delicate white blooms appear. They bring a sweet fragrance that attracts bees and gardeners alike. Creating a backdrop for the flowers are shiny, dark green leaves on spindly brown stems. The new foliage is bright green and turns dark as it matures, so the foliage has a beautifully textured look.
Also called Confederate jasmine, this vine grows to be very full and is extremely versatile. It’s usually found growing as a climbing vine. You can put it on a trellis, fence, wall, or whatever else you have. Confederate jasmine can also be trained to grow as a shrub, ground cover, or even a hanging container species.
In case I haven’t convinced you how awesome this vine is, imagine this: it’s super-easy. Star jasmine is generally not picky about its conditions. It’s low-maintenance and pest-free. What more could you ask for in such a stunning type?
Plant Overview

Plant
Climber
Family
Apocynaceae
Genus
Trachelospermum
Species
Trachelospermum jasminoides
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Native Area
China, Japan, Korea, Taiwan, Tibet, Vietnam
Exposure
Full sun to partial sun
Height
2-30′
Watering Requirements
Moderate
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Pests & Diseases
Mealybugs, rabbits, sooty mold
Maintenance
Low
Soil Type
Well-draining, slightly acidic
Hardiness Zone
8-11
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What is Trachelospermum Jasminoides?
Surprisingly, Trachelospermum jasminoides, isn’t actually a true jasmine. This deceptively-named vine is part of the Apocynaceae family, which also includes periwinkle, milkweed, and hoya. It’s also related to the carrion flower species Stapelia, the flowers of which smell like rotting meat. That’s a complete contrast from star jasmine’s sweetly fragrant white flowers!
Native Area

Trachelospermum jasminoides comes from China and Japan. This fragrant jasmine grows as an evergreen in zones 8-11. In colder areas, it makes a great indoor/outdoor container plant or annual.
Characteristics

The size of these vines depends on how you choose to grow them. As a shrub, it’s usually kept at three to six feet high and wide. It can also be contained to two feet off the ground as a ground cover. Left to its own devices, star jasmine can climb upwards to 30 feet or more!
These vines grow fast, so they quickly expand to fill any space in the garden you allow them to take. For an alternative to its deep green foliage, check out the variegated form ‘Chameleon’ that has creamy light yellow streaks on the leaves.
Planting

When choosing a spot for Trachelospermum jasminoides, choose a sunny to partially shaded spot with well-draining soil. Begin by digging a hole twice as wide and deep as the root ball. Gently loosen the roots before placing it into the hole, ensuring that the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil. Backfill the hole with a mix of compost and native soil, then water thoroughly to settle the roots. Mulch around the base to retain moisture and suppress weeds, but keep the mulch a few centimeters away from the stem. Provide a trellis or structure for climbing if you’re training it as a vine, and water regularly until established.
How to Grow
You shouldn’t have difficulty getting your star jasmine to perform like the star it truly is. But, just in case, here are some care tips to really help your vine take off.
Light

This fragrant jasmine loves full sun conditions… but it’s not as fond as the heat that goes with them. If the temperature soars in your area, provide some afternoon shade. They can also grow in partial-shade conditions as long as they have lots of indirect bright lighting.
Water

Star jasmine isn’t a water guzzler, but it does need a consistent watering schedule. Give your plant a drink whenever the soil begins to dry out on top. Depending on the weather, you’ll be watering about every week. During the summer, increase the watering frequency so your plants stay hydrated.
Soil

Ever the adapter, Trachelospermum jasminoides can adjust to most soil types. Its preference is loamy and well-draining soil that’s slightly acidic. It’s important that the soil doesn’t get too muddy. This can easily lead to root rot and bacterial growth in most vines, including star jasmine.
Temperature

Star jasmine tolerates temperatures as low as 10°F (-12°C). Its leaves start to turn bronze colored once the weather drops below 32°F (0°C), but many consider that to be an attractive feature. If you’re in a climate that is colder than zone 8, be prepared to bring your vine indoors to overwinter. It performs best in zones 8-10 but also survives in zone 11.
Fertilizer

You only need to fertilize if the soil lacks organic matter or if it is showing signs of nutrient deficiency (yellowing leaves). In the spring, apply a balanced slow-release fertilizer to boost the new growth. Only fertilize established jasmine vines, not newly planted ones.
If using compost is more your style, mix it into the soil before planting the jasmine vine. Each winter afterward, lightly cover the top of the soil with an inch or two to hold in moisture and supply nutrients.
Maintenance

Trachelospermum jasminoides spreads by sending out runners that root wherever they touch the ground. If you want your vine kept in a certain space, prune back these runners. Because the roots grow deep, it’s much easier to prune early on than dig up the rooted segments later.
If you’re growing your star jasmine as a ground cover, you might not want to trim back the runners. The newly rooted vines will help keep your ground cover lush and evergreen. It will also reduce the need for planting jasmine starts in bare spots. You may actually want to encourage your vine to take root in those bare areas by burying sections of the vine.
The ideal pruning time is after the white flowers have faded. Remove vines in the garden that are dead, diseased, unsightly, or in the way. While you’re at it, save any healthy clippings to propagate from!
Plant your jasmine vine in the spring or early fall so it can get established before winter. You can re-pot it during the summer, but the adjusting vine will require more water and care at this time. Choose a container that’s twice as big as your jasmine star. This jasmine is such a fast grower that it’ll fill up its space in no time. If you want your potted vine to climb, insert a trellis into the soil before planting.
Since it’s large, take your jasmine star out of the old container sideways, with it laying on the ground. If the roots are packed together, gently loosen them up with your fingers. Set the star jasmine in its new container, filling in the empty spaces with fresh soil. If you’re using a trellis, carefully wind the vines up the trellis to help them climb.
Propagation

Star jasmine is best propagated by stem cuttings in the summer. Using clean clippers, take a four-inch-long cutting just below a leaf node. The cutting must be healthy, succulent, and preferably flower-free. Dip the end in powdered or liquid rooting hormone and set it upright in well-draining soil.
It takes about two to three weeks for the cutting to root and another three to four weeks until it’s ready for transplanting. During this time, keep the soil consistently moist and keep the container in the shade. After transplanting into the garden, pay special attention to the baby plant and give it plenty of water.
Common Problems
Overall, star jasmine is mostly pest and disease-free. Unfortunately, that doesn’t make this vine bullet-proof. Here are some problems that are rare, but may occur with your star jasmine.
Growing Problems

In some gardens, this fragrant jasmine can become invasive. If you’re planning for the vine to take up a large space, this shouldn’t be a problem. However, if your Confederate jasmine is confined to a small space with other, smaller plants nearby, it can overstep its bounds. You’ll have to prune it back regularly to keep it under control.
Sun exposure is great unless you start getting up into the 90s (around 32°C). During those hot sun periods, it may be best if you provide partial shade, especially during the hot afternoon hours. Your vines may wilt if they’re exposed to too much scorching sun in the midst of the summer. If they have water, they will usually perk up once the heat drops.
Pests

Infestations of mealybugs will weaken the vine, as they suck the sap from the leaves and cause damage. If the pests are already at home on your star jasmine, use a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol to loosen them and pick them off. Regular sprayings of neem oil can prevent them from returning.
Confederate jasmine may draw rabbits to your garden. They usually don’t cause enough damage to severely hurt the vine, but you may lose a few leaves here and there. The fragrant white flowers and the lush green leaves draw them in!
Diseases

Sooty mold develops on the honeydew secreted by some insects. It’s a fungus that spreads dark patches across the leaves. The mold itself doesn’t hurt, but it can block the sun and make photosynthesis more difficult. Prevent this fungal growth by keeping your star jasmine pest-free. To remove the mold, use water to rinse it off the leaves. Neem oil can help prevent regrowth.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does star jasmine need a trellis?
Only if you want it to climb upward. This garden vine can be trained as a shrub or ground cover as well! A dappling of the white, fragrant flowers atop their glossy evergreen foliage makes for a beautiful and thick “carpet”.
Is Confederate jasmine poisonous?
Nope! This garden climber is child and pet-friendly.
Is star jasmine an evergreen?
It is unless the temperature drops below the freezing point. It can develop bronze leaves at that point, then serious damage at around 10°F (-12°C). If you’re in a climate that regularly experiences sub-freezing temperatures, bring your plants in from the garden during the cold season.